Introduction

Build a handy key holder for all your everyday carry items. Mount it on the wall in your home’s entryway and you’ll never lose your keys again! This is an easy woodworking project that will only take a few hours.

Cutting List

Glue and Clamp the Shelf

Cut the mounting board and shelf parts to length, then glue and clamp the shelf to the mounting board. Leave a 1/4-in. space on either side of the shelf and set aside for the glue to cure.

Project Overview

If you’re short on bedroom closet space or need someplace to hang your outerwear near the front door, here’s a great clothing rack you can build yourself. It’s practical and stylish, featuring a shelf to place your bags and a nook underneath to tuck away your shoes and boots. You can build this with basic tools and materials found at your local home center.

Cutting List

Fit the Base

Cut four 2×2’s to length with a 16-degree angle on one end. These are the vertical supports (A) that hold the hanger rod in position. For the bottom braces (B), cut two more 2×2’s with the same 16-degree angle on both ends.

Fit one vertical support to the bottom brace, then position the second vertical support on top and flush with the other end of the bottom brace. Fasten the parts together at the bottom with wood glue and trim screws.

Figure A

Cutting List

Frame the Reservoir

Cut the reservoir frame sides (A) and ends (B) from 2×2 lumber and fasten the bottom piece of marine plywood (C) to form the base. Align the sides (D) with the ends of the base and fasten them to the 2x2s. Fasten the ends (E) to the 2x2s at the bottom with construction screws. Drive trim screws into the edges of the plywood toward the top.

Before You Start

Adding an egress window is a big job, and it’s important to plan your project to meet the building requirements in your location. Here are the steps I took before starting to excavate:

Apply for a permit

This process could take a few weeks. My city required detailed plans of the well, the dimensions of the window and rough opening, the size of the header and a drawing of the property, including the house.

Engineered drawing

The retaining walls that made up our well were tall enough to require an engineer’s approval. I sent my plans to a local engineer who gave me a new drawing with a stamp of approval to include with my permit ­application. If you buy a manufactured well, this step is likely unnecessary, but your city’s building department makes the final call.

Call the digging hotline

When you’re digging, even just a few inches, call to have underground utilities located and marked.

Digging is dangerous if you don’t know where the utilities are. If you skip this step and hit a gas, water, or power line underground, you’ll risk the lives of yourself and others, and you’ll be on the hook for the costly repairs. So be sure to call 811 before your project. The process varies by state, so call a few days ahead of your project.

Requirements for Egress Windows

Here are the minimum requirements identified by the building code: 

• The opening needs to be 5.7 square feet.
• The minimum width is 20 inches.
• The minimum height is 24 inches. 
• The well needs to provide a clear space of 3-ft. x 3-ft. when the window is open.
• From the inside, the sill height cannot exceed 44 inches

Dig the Window Well

Following my plans, I drew the window well location with marking paint. I rented a mini excavator to make the ­digging much easier. It was well worth the $450 to avoid hand ­digging.

Have a plan for the dirt you’re removing; it will be more than you anticipate. We took the nearly 10 cubic yards of dirt to a nearby compost site.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-make-a-simple-wooden-box/ Fri, 13 Jan 2023 17:00:01 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=489168

Rip the Board to Size 

Take a standard 1/2-in. by 6-in. by 4-ft. board found at your local home center and rip it down to 5-in. wide. This box will be 5-in. tall on the sides and 5-in wide. With this design, I only need to make one rip cut for the sides and the top and bottom of the box.

Clamp a Straightedge Down the Center

Establish a line near the center of the slab from the bottom to the top and clamp a straightedge along it. This will be a straight line and a plumb reference to hang the chart on the wall, allowing you to make perpendicular hash lines to identify inches and feet.

About the Expert

Drew Beninati owns and operates the PlasterCenter in Minneapolis, MN. He has been a plaster contractor for 40 years and has run his training center for 20 years. Learn more at plastercenter.com.

Remove Cabinets

The kitchen wall we chose to plaster had a few cabinets we planned to replace with open shelving, so our first step was to tear them out. If you’re plastering a wall that holds cabinets you plan to keep, you can plaster right up to them.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-build-custom-composite-benches/ Fri, 06 May 2022 17:09:46 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=462566

We built our bench to fit against an angled wall and between two gabion walls, but you can modify the plans to fit your own space. We designed the bench to have waterfall sides to hide the cut ends, but you could change this detail to simplify it further.

The bench can be built in just a couple of days, and the composite decking has the beautiful look of hardwood — without the hassles.

These benches are built against this angled block wall and in between two gabion structures. But they can be easily modified to fit your own space and to stand alone. Our surface was level, so all we needed to do was compact it with a tamper before we began.

Lay Out the Bench With 2x4s

To determine where to place your bench and its approximate size, lay out 2x4s to outline the base. This will give you a good visual for the bench’s placement and length.

• Pro tip: We left a two-inch space between the framing and the abutting walls to allow room for decking and to make installation easier.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/composite-boardwalk-and-accent-walls/ Thu, 28 Apr 2022 16:39:12 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=460390

The boardwalk is a quick and easy build. The flexible composite decking will follow slight contours in your yard and can span roots and rocks that would otherwise require excavation. You may have to do a little digging to make the boardwalk flush with the ground and create a seamless walkway through your yard.

The walls surrounding this backyard were bland. To liven them up and match the rest of the new space, we used extra deck boards to outline the new seating area. These two projects take just a few days to build, but they can have a big impact.

Prep the Ground

To build the boardwalk at ground level, dig a trench along the path. We needed to fill our trench with drainage rock to keep the pressure-treated lumber dry. We dug out six inches of soil to fit a two-inch layer of rock topped with our 2×4 frames. Tamping the area before and after laying the rock gave us a solid foundation.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/complete-circular-saw-guide/ Thu, 24 Feb 2022 21:51:14 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=450250

One of the most reached-for tools in my garage, the circular saw is an essential tool for DIYers of all skill levels.

The “circ” saw is über-versatile. If you need any kind of straight cut, a circular saw can do it. But there are some tricks for using one. Follow along to learn circular saw skills and to find out what type of saw you need in your shop.

Safety First

Always wear hearing and eye protection when using any power saw, and keep loose-fitting sleeves, long hair and hoodie drawstrings tucked away. When making a cut, keep your hands in front of and away from the saw — never behind it.

Don’t bind the blade

When a circular saw blade pinches or twists while making a cut, the blade can kick back toward you with force. This is usually avoidable.

Don’t rush, keep your saw cuts straight, and position the cutoff side of your workpiece to fall away from the blade. Never cut between supported ends, like the middle of two sawhorses, where the cut will fall into the saw blade.

Adjust blade depth

When a lot of the saw blade extends beneath your material, you increase the possibility of cutting something you don’t intend to cut. Set your blade depth so just a bit more than the teeth protrudes through the material.

Using a Circular Saw for All Kinds of Cuts

Whether you’re cutting 2x4s to length, breaking down plywood sheets into a manageable size, creating joinery or making angled and beveled cuts, reach for a do-it-all circ saw. Here are some terms to know:

• Angle: Changing the angle of the saw relative to the material you are cutting.
• Rip cut: Sawing with the grain of solid lumber.
• Bevel: Changing the angle of the blade relative to the saw’s shoe.
• Crosscut: Sawing across the grain of solid lumber.
• Compound: Sawing at an angle with the blade set at a bevel.

Your circular saw can cut far more than just 2x4s and plywood. Specialty blades are available to help you cut other materials, such as:

• Plastic: I learned to cut vinyl siding by flipping the blade to spin backward. This is a bad idea. Instead, use a blade for cutting composite material. They’re configured to cut — not melt — plastic and other composite materials, as well as aluminum.
• Masonry: Repair a driveway crack or cut landscape blocks and pavers with a diamond blade in your circular saw. These blades are common for tile saws or angle grinders, but also come in sizes to fit your circular saw.
• Metal: Install a steel-cutting blade to cut cleanly through tough metal. Check that your circular saw does not exceed the blade’s revolutions per minute (rpm) rating. The heat-tolerant Cermet blade by Diablo cuts up to 3/8-in.-thick steel, without heating up the material or leaving sharp burrs.

Types of Saws

A specific circular saw exists for whatever work you do most often. If you only cut 2x4s, you don’t need a bigger saw. If you need to cut flooring easily, there’s a saw for that. Getting the right saw for the job makes your work easier. Here are the types of saws and what they cut best.

Traditional/ Sidewinder

Everybody knows this one. The motor is mounted on the left and spins a 7-1/4-in. blade on the right. Tried and true, this saw can handle most of the jobs on your weekend projects list. It’s also available in a left-handed version with the motor and blade reversed. 

Worm Drive

Most circular saws are direct drive, meaning the saw blade connects directly to the motor’s spindle. A worm-drive saw has the blade in front of the motor. Gears perpendicular to the motor spin the blade.

Some framing carpenters favor gear-driven saws. They’re narrower and heavier than traditional circular saws but are more powerful and track straight when you’re making long cuts. Two versions of this saw, worm drive and hypoid drive, use slightly different style gears; both need gear oil for maintenance.

Compact/Flooring Saw

Equipped with a much smaller 4-1/2-in. blade, this saw can still cut two-by material, but excels at flooring and sheet goods. The barrel handle design gives them a unique operating feel, and they demand different use habits for safety.

Trim Saw

A smaller version of a traditional circular saw, this has a 6-1/2-in. blade and typically comes in a blade-left orientation, although some use a blade-right setup. The smaller blade results in less cutting-depth capacity, but its light weight and easy handling make trim saws shine for out-of-shop tasks.

Beam Cutter

When you need to cut large timbers for landscaping or a thick slab for a project, check out a beam cutter such as this one by Prazi. This attachment fits a variety of 7-1/4-in. sidewinder saws. Bolt one on and you’ll cut lumber up to 12 inches thick.

Circular Saw Features to Look For

Circular saws might all look similar, but they vary in significant ways. Cutting capacity is mostly a factor of blade size but can differ slightly among saws.

When choosing the best saw, look for the following features that improve safety, make the saw more versatile or stand up better to the rigors of the jobsite:

• Electric brake: Stops the blade as soon as you release trigger.
• Magnesium shoe: Magnesium is lighter and stronger than steel.
• No-catch blade guard: Some blade guards catch on the edge of your material, which is annoying and unsafe. A blade guard shaped to avoid snagging the edge of a board means you don’t have to lift it to make your cut. Keeping safety features in place is always a good thing.
• Positive bevel stops: This feature makes it easy to change the bevel angle from 90 degrees to 45, or other common angles, with speed and consistency.

Tips for Using a Circular Saw

Cut angles easier

Cutting angles can be tricky because the blade guard often catches on the material as the saw begins to cut, even with a no-catch blade guard. Before starting the cut, lift the blade guard lever with your opposite hand until the blade guard can rest on the material.

Cut plywood on a foam backer

Cut full-size sheets of plywood on top of a sheet of one-inch rigid foam. The foam won’t dull the blade and the cut-off parts won’t crash to the floor.

Prevent scratches and chip-out

Apply tape to the material you’re cutting. This accomplishes three things: It prevents the saw’s shoe from scuffing your wood, allows you to make an accurate and visible (dark) mark you won’t have to sand away, and helps prevent chip-out.

Use a speed square guide

To quickly make square cuts, use a Speed square as a saw guide. You’ll get a perfect cut, fast. Be sure to place your square and the bulk of the saw on the keeper side of the board and line up the blade so it cuts on the scrap side of the board. If necessary, adjust the blade depth to prevent the motor from hitting the square.

Make a notch

Mark the width and depth of your notch, then set the saw’s depth and make several cuts between your marks. Knock away what’s left with a screwdriver or chisel.

If the notch is less than 1-1/2-in. wide, use your circular saw to smooth out the bottom by slowly dragging the saw blade over the notch sideways. If both sides of the blade can’t support the shoe of the saw, smooth out the bottom with a chisel.

Pro tip: If you’re notching a narrow piece of lumber, clamp scrap lumber on both sides of the piece to give the shoe more solid footing

Secure material

Whether you’re ripping or crosscutting, if your material shifts, you risk a potentially dangerous kickback. Secure the material to a workbench or sawhorse with nails, screws or clamps.

Score for a clean cut

A saw blade tends to lift the surface wood fibers as it cuts, giving you a fuzzy or splintered edge. Score your cutting line with a razor blade to cut the fibers on top and give you a clean edge.

Prop the board

When making cuts on a pile of lumber or on a flat work surface, prop up the piece with a small scrap about two inches long. It prevents you from cutting into the work surface and allows the cutoff piece to fall away from the blade. Make your cut on the high side of the prop.

Trouble cutting straight? Check the shoe

If your saw isn’t cutting straight along a guide and leaving burn marks, check that the edge of the shoe is parallel to the blade. The shoe can bend and become crooked if your saw has been dropped or jostled too much. It might be time for a new saw or to find a replacement shoe online.

Make straight cuts using a circular saw

A veteran carpenter once suggested I unwrap my thumb from the saw handle and align my wrist and thumb with the direction I’m pushing the saw. When I changed my grip, I made much straighter cuts without a saw guide.

Pro tip: For straighter cuts when not using a guide, watch the blade cut along your line.

Make steep bevel cuts

Most circular saws will make bevel cuts up to 55 degrees. What if you need a steeper bevel? Subtract the bevel you’re after from 90 and set your saw at that bevel. Next, clamp or screw a block even with the end of the board to support the saw base while you cut. If the blade doesn’t complete the cut, finish it with a handsaw or reciprocating saw.

This trick works for compound cuts as well. Cut the angle first with the bevel at 90 degrees, and then use the off-cut to support the saw while you cut the steep bevel.

Check for 90 degrees

If the blade on your circular saw isn’t 90 degrees against its shoe, any bevel you adjust to will be inaccurate. Check the blade with a machinist’s square. If it’s not square, flip the saw upside down and adjust the setscrew on the bottom until it is square.

Once the saw is dialed in at 90 degrees, adjust it to 45 degrees and check the angle with a Speed or combination square. Be sure to unplug the saw or remove its battery when making the adjustments.

Cut and roll through posts

Even though the cutting capacity for traditional 7-1/4-in. circular saws is only about 2-1/2 in., you can easily cut through thicker posts.

Mark the cut and make the first full-depth cut on one side, then roll the material backward and use the saw kerf to line up the next cut. A third roll and cut will saw through a 4×4 post. If you’re working with larger lumber such as 6×6 posts, cut on all four sides and finish it off with a handsaw or reciprocating saw.

Upgrade with a DIY Track Guide

A simple and inexpensive track guide will let you cut straight, accurate lines with any circular saw. The track consists of a straight board fastened with glue and nails to a piece of 1/4-in. hardboard.

Use the board as a fence and run the saw along the track, cutting the hardboard to match your saw blade exactly. Then to make a cut, just line up the edge of the guide with your marks. Making one long and one short version of this guide will give you a rip guide and a crosscut guide.

Take safety seriously

This DIY wood wall art piece was made with an angle grinder, a handheld tool that spins at 10,000 revolutions per minute (rpm) or more.

When a spinning carving wheel hits the wood, the dust and wood chips fly everywhere. A face shield is a must; I go with safety goggles and a long-sleeved shirt, too. Because my hands are so close to the wheel, I always wear gloves and keep the side handle in place. Clamp down your workpiece and make sure the chips are flying away from anything they can harm.

Draw the Contours for the DIY Wood Wall Art

To make my DIY wood wall art design (see Step 7), I began by drawing lines to indicate the highest contour — the peaks. I followed the grain but also deviated from it to create interesting crossing patterns. Sketch your lines with a pencil. Once you like the shapes, go over them with a white china pencil.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/keen-work-boots-red-hook-review/ Thu, 20 Jan 2022 21:23:15 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=444735

I love work boots. I’ve gone through a few brands over the 10 years I’ve worn a pair of them daily, and all of them have been heavy and stiff. The hard soles, steel safety toe and all that leather give you a workout with each step.

Keen Utility came up with a different kind of work boot. Their Red Hook Boots are a cross between a work boot and a pair of sneakers. I had to give them a try.

What’s Different about the Keen Utility Red Hook Boots?

The Keen Utility Red Hook Boots are a tough work boot with an athletic shoe feel. They’re great for those whose feet ache from moving on hard surfaces all day long and want a more springy step while keeping their toes safe on the jobsite. They look great and are much lighter than traditional work boots.

How We Tested It

I started wearing these Keen Utility Red Hooks over the summer while working on the Family Handyman Getaway project. Over the last six months I’ve walked across lots of different surfaces on projects for Family Handyman and at my home — metal and asphalt roofs, deck joists, ladders, mud, rocks, puddles, snow and the concrete floor in our work shop. Basically, I’ve thrown everything I could at these boots.

Keen Work Boots Performance Review

The Red Hooks were a lot different than the work boots I’ve worn the past 10 years. The soft sole felt strange at first. But after a day of walking on uneven or hard terrain, my feet and hips appreciated the extra cushion-y support. The experience is much more like an athletic shoe than a work boot.

One thing that didn’t take any getting used to was their weight. The Red Hooks feel half as heavy as my other boots. After a full day of work, that’s a big deal.

Toward the end of summer I built a fence around my yard. Though hot and humid out, my feet stayed dry and comfortable. Two things kept my feet from becoming soaked with sweat and unbearably hot: The breathable material in the padded upper, and Keen Utility’s proprietary Keen.Dry membrane that lets moisture escape.

The carbon fiber safety toes are one of my favorite features. Carbon fiber isn’t as cold as steel in frigid weather, and it makes the boots lighter. The steel toes of boots I’ve worn in the past featured a symmetrical cap, but the Red Hooks offer right and left versions to fit the shoe — and your toes — flawlessly.

If Keen Utility puts out a Red Hooks V2, I’d suggest two improvements. Add a shank inside the sole for better protection against stepping on nails during remodeling, demolition or framing work. And switch to a non-flat lace. That’s easily done with an after-market lace, but I can’t tell you how many times I’ve struggled hooking the flat lace into the upper lace hooks.

As far as durability goes, I’ve put them through the paces of my day-to-day and weekend work and they’ve held up great. That’s because the Red Hooks are wrapped in leather with a tough outer material at the toe, heel and sides where the boot sees more wear and tear. I’ve walked across asphalt shingles and wood piles and stomped through snow with nothing more than normal scuffs and scratches.

At $180, these Keen Red Hook boots aren’t cheap. But if your feet crave an athletic shoe-like feel with work boot safety features and you get two or three years out of them, I’d say you’ll be happy to have these on your feet for that price.

Why You Should Buy These

I’ve developed a soft spot for these boots. They’ve found a place next to my stiff and heavy work boots. If you’re in the market for a new pair and want to try something closer to an athletic shoe, these are right up your alley.

Where to Buy Keen Red Hook Work Boots

The Keen Red Hook Boots are available at many online retailers and stores that carry the Keen brand.

Shop Now

Mike Berner is an Editor at Family Handyman who traversed countless job sites in work boots.

Cutting List

Divide the Top and Mark the Centers

After cutting the top, bottom and sides from a 1×12 board, draw a line across the middle of what will be the top.  This divides the board in half and leaves you with two equal rectangular shapes. Find the center of each by making an ‘X’ from the corners.

Authentic, Seamless Beams

For this project, I’m going for a real-beams look. Using a method called miter folding, I’ll transform a pair of 1x6s and a 1×8 board into a hollow beam. The miter seams will be invisible, and each beam will look like an actual solid piece. You’ll need a table saw or a track saw to pull this off, but your beams will look as if they are actually holding up the ceiling.

Beam Styles for Any Home

Hardwood + Stain

This is the clean, modern real-beam look I used for this project. I used red oak lumber with Simply White 275 Minwax stain.

Box Beams

You can build this beam style without a table saw by using 1×6 boards right from the store. No long bevel cuts needed.

Painted: Use finger-jointed preprimed boards, which come perfectly straight. Just nail them together, and then caulk, paint and install them.

Hardwood: Use straight-grained hardwood like mahogany, and the seams almost disappear. Nail the boards flush, apply finish and install.

Veneered Plywood

The advantage of veneered plywood? The sheets come straight as an arrow, making them easy to cut and fold together. The downside? You’re limited to the length of a sheet of plywood. Build longer beams by butting them together and covering the seam with a piece of matching molding.

Rustic/Distressed

With reclaimed barn wood, you can achieve that authentic farmhouse look. Barn wood is much more forgiving because it already has nail holes, dents and dings, and it requires no staining or finishing.

Ready-Made Faux Beams

A few companies manufacture beams of all styles using high-density foam. These beams are lighter than wood, easier to install and look realistic. Barron Designs customizes ultra-realistic beams in any length, width and height, and can even cap beams with a decorative scrolled end.

Fasten Ceiling Cleats

First, locate and mark the position and direction of each ceiling joist around the edges of the ceiling. Then, avoiding ceiling fixtures, mark where the beams will be positioned. Keep their spacing even and ensure each beam will be attached to a joist. The beams can be installed across or along the ceiling joists.

Next, attach 2×6 cleats to the ceiling joists where you’ll place the beams. I used a pair of 2×6 boards to wedge the cleats into position while I fastened them to the ceiling joists.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-install-an-electric-fireplace/ Thu, 09 Sep 2021 23:25:30 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=422029 Stepping out of a warm tub or shower into a cold space is not one of life's joys. The usual remedy — other than tolerating the chill — would be installing a heat lamp. But their red glow and noisy timers can make you feel like a newborn chick, or maybe a hot dog at a gas station waiting for a hungry customer.

I wanted a different vibe for our complete bathroom remodel — no surprise, right? With this electric fireplace, I can change the color of the flames and embers and I control the heat output, all using WiFi.

If your roof includes a chimney or sidewall, you’ll have to make a notch.  I do this in two steps with two tools.

Cut Across the Panels

After marking the notch, I start by making the cuts across the panel, which means you’re cutting over the ribs.  The BEST way to do this is with a profile nibbler. Instead of cutting the metal, it actually makes several punches, which allows it to cut over the ribs. Profile nibblers do not track straight so move slowly.

For Long Straight Cuts

For the straight cut up the flat part of a panel I use a double cut shear. It’s fast, cuts straight and leaves a nice finished edge. Double cut shears make a 1/4-in. wide cut that creates a thin, sharp metal coil, so wear gloves and keep it from scratching the panels.

Prevent Ice Dams

Match Deck Board Lengths

Deck boards, like the ones from Prowood that we used on our Getaway project, are commonly sold in lengths of eight, 12-, 16-, and 20-feet. Matching the size of the deck to these board lengths makes it easier and faster to build and eliminates undue seams and waste.

Kiln Dried Lumber is Better

Pressure treated lumber dries out after the treating process. When it warps, twists and bends, you’ll have a real nightmare attaching deck boards. Kiln Dried After Treatment (KDAT) lumber is dried straight and will stay much straighter years after installation. You’ll avoid the problem of warped wood.

Get the Right Hangers

Joist hangers are another critical connection. They transfer the load from the joists to the beam and ledger. If you’re using 2×12 joists, you need 2×12 hangers.

Joist hangers for decks must also meet corrosion standards with a special G-185 coating (some manufacturers label this as ZMAX or Triple Zinc). Stainless steel versions are available for decks built near saltwater. When fastening hangers, nail through every hole in the hanger with the right-size nail called for by the hanger manufacturer.

Joist and Beam Spans Matter

Joists, beams and posts work together to frame and support your deck. Joists run at 90- or 45-degree angles to the decking (we went with 90 degrees) and shouldn’t be spaced more than 16 inches from center to center.

The joist span, or distance between beams, determines the size of the joists you need. The size of the beam determines how you space the footings and support posts.

Consider a Landing

Instead of a small staircase, increase the footprint and of your deck and add a landing; it will be easier to step on and off the deck. Built the same way as a deck, a landing is a great way to keep the scale of the stairway similar to the deck.

An easy way to attach it to the deck is by using adjustable truss hangers that attach to the face of the rim joist and hang low enough to for a seven-inch step.

A deck that’s not maintained can become unsafe and unsightly. If this sounds like your deck and you want to upgrade to a maintenance-free outdoor living space, consider a “re-deck.”

The job of ripping up and replacing deck boards might seem straightforward, but you could run into problems. With these tips, you’ll avoid major pitfalls and give your deck a whole new life.

Demo the Decking

Flash the Ledger Board

Replace Rotten Posts

Missing Hanger Nails

Protect Joists from Rot

Reinforce Railings

Stiffen Up the Joists

Work From the Outside In

Pin the Middle

Run the Boards Long to Avoid Butt Joints

Hidden Fasteners for a Clean Surface

Butt Joint Seam Fix

If you can’t avoid a seam in your deck boards, choose one of these options:

Easy Stringer Replacement

Trim the Edges

Update Wood Posts With a Sleeve

Modernize with Aluminum Rail

Types of Wood Decking

Wood decking is beautiful and typically much more economical than composite. However, after a few years it loses its warm tone and turns a dull gray if it’s not meticulously maintained. That increases its lifetime cost.

Pressure Treated Wood

• The boards are soaked with chemicals and put under pressure so the treatment permeates the entire board. That makes them resistant to rot and insects.
• Copper, a common element in treatments, gives treated boards their green tint.
• When you’re sanding or cutting any treated lumber, respirators are a must.
• This lumber is readily available in many red and brown tones.
• Cut ends of pressure-treated boards must be treated with an exterior sealer, such as Woodlife CopperCoat.
• Boards must be thoroughly dry before you apply a stain or protective finish.

Cedar Wood

• Naturally rot- and insect-resistant.
• It has a beautiful bright tone and can be stained easily.
• Long lasting and easy to work with.

Exotic Wood: Ipe, Cumaru

• Naturally rot- and insect-resistant, exotic woods have a beautiful, high-end look.
• The installation is labor intensive. The boards are heavy and dense, and need to be predrilled for screws.
• The boards are available with or without grooved edges to accommodate hidden fasteners.

PVC Decking

Cellular PVC is an all-plastic decking. Its core is a porous (cellular) lightweight plastic that’s capped just like other composite decking. PVC contains no organic material to rot, grow mold or swell when exposed to moisture, and it comes with a 20-plus-year warranty from staining and fading.

• Can be bent using heat for stunning curved designs. PVC expands and contracts more than wood and WPC as the temperature shifts.
• It may become stained with exposure to some rubber products like grill mats and water shoes.
• PVC is the most expensive option, ranging from $4.40 to $7.50 per linear foot.

Wood Plastic Composite Decking

Made with up to 95 percent recycled plastic that encapsulates the wood fibers, wood plastic composite (WPC) decking is strong and often comes with a 20-year or longer warranty against staining and fading. Unlike natural wood, it won’t crack or splinter. Aside from an easy annual soap-and-water cleaning, it’s pretty much maintenance-free decking.

• Much heavier than wood.
• Some WPC decking requires shorter joist and stringer spans because it’s less rigid than solid wood.
• Ranging from $2.90 to $6 per lin. ft., WPC is more expensive than wood.

Mineral-Based Composite

Mineral-based composite (MBC) is the newest type of composite decking. It’s as lightweight as PVC but twice as strong, and carries a 25-year stain and fade warranty. There’s virtually no temperature-induced shrinking or swelling. MBC decking is highly resistant to moisture.

• MBC is more rigid than WPC and PVC, so it can be used on longer joist and stringer spans.
• It can withstand ground and water contact.
• It can maintain smaller gaps at miters and seams. Ranging from $4 to $6 per lin. ft., MBC is comparable in price to WPC.

Capped Vs. Uncapped Decking

Most modern decking has a hard plastic cap for better protection against harmful UV rays, weathering, scratches and dents. Capped deck boards provide color variations and the appearance of textured wood grain. But uncapped decking has improved and still has a place.

Uncapped boards are cheaper and available with wood grain patterns. Because uncapped deck boards are uniform throughout, you can round over cut ends or edges with a router without noticeably changing the board’s sheen or color. Scratches or dents can be “healed” with a heat gun or left to heal naturally over time under the sun’s heat.

How Much Does It Cost to Build a Deck?

You can find economical, midrange and high-end choices for each type of decking. A typical deck (16 x 20 ft.) covers about 350 sq. ft. For that size, the cost of decking alone can range from $450 to $2,700.

Design Options

Today, it’s easy to get the look you’re after. The color, grain pattern, size and shape of the boards give you countless design options.

Deck Grain Pattern

Every board of natural wood has a unique grain pattern. Even though the “grain” in composite decking mimics real wood, the pattern repeats from board to board. The grain options vary, from a deep embossed texture to tight, straight grain.

Get A Grip

Although all decking meets a minimum requirement for grip, if you’re concerned about slippery conditions, consider decking with deeper grain.

Color

Almost any tone of wood or stained wood is available in composite decking. In addition, some of the more expensive composites have realistic color streaking that mimics the natural colors of real wood. Typically, you won’t see this in the more economical options, but you’ll still find a wide range of colors.

Temperature

Composite decking gets hot in the sun. So if your deck gets full sun, consider lighter-colored deck boards or be prepared to wear shoes. Some manufacturers claim their decking has special properties that resist heat retention, remaining cooler even in darker colors.

Common Deck Profiles

The profile and cross section of your deck boards may seem insignificant, but they’re important to how your deck is built and how it will look.

Square Edge

Use square profile boards on your deck’s borders to hide cut ends or as a pattern board to avoid seams. With square profile boards, you’ll typically drive fasteners through the face of the boards. However, some fastening systems let you hide the fasteners by using a jig to drive them into the board’s edge at an angle. CAMO has a system like this.

Grooved Edge

Use grooved-edge boards in the middle of the deck, anywhere the edge isn’t visible. Hidden deck fasteners fit in the grooves for a clean look.

Scalloped Bottom

The scalloped undersides make the board lighter weight and a little less expensive. Face-screwing scalloped boards can be difficult. Screws angle toward the grooves, pull the board and leave an oblong hole that’s hard to plug.

Non-Standard Board Widths

Standard deck boards are 5-1/4-in. wide, but many companies offer different widths, from three inches up to almost 12 inches wide. This lets you achieve a different look from standard decking and opens the door to many design possibilities. Wide boards also make single-board stair treads possible.

Follow Fastener Recommendations

Whichever decking you choose, be sure to follow the manufacturer’s fastening instructions. The warranty typically depends on your use of the recommended fasteners, including face screws, fascia screws and hidden fasteners.

Matching Skirt Boards

Most decking manufacturers offer a 1/2-in.-thick version of decking for use as skirt boards (11 inches wide) and stair risers (eight inches wide). These are typically available in a manufacturer’s color options.

You don’t have to settle for stepping over extension cords or draping wires across your walls. With these wire-fishing tips and tools, you can put wires where you need them.

Route Cable Behind Baseboard

If you’re like me and would rather install miles of trim than patch drywall, this is the way to go.

Remove the baseboard and cut a long, narrow hole in its place. Then drill holes in the studs for your wire to pass through. This works best with wide base trim but can be done with narrow base trim as well. Be sure to keep the holes in the studs at least 1-1/4-in. away from the stud edges to avoid the need for protective metal plates.

Make a Bevel Cut

If you have to cut an access hole, make the cut at an angle. Then when it’s time to patch it, spread joint compound around the hole and press the cutout back in. The mud will hold the plug in place. There’s no need for screws or backing, and the plug won’t fall through the hole.

Make a Chase With Trim

Run conduit or BX cable (armored cable) along the top corner of a wall and cover it with crown molding. You can cut small holes in the wall or ceiling where the wiring needs to exit the room.

Don’t Fish Power Cords

Cords that power appliances, TVs and power strips cannot be placed inside a wall. The National Electrical Code says these cords cannot replace permanent wiring. To avoid seeing these power cords, you can fish cable to add a new outlet nearby.

Give Communication Cable Enough Space

Communication cable like coax or Cat 6 should be kept away from cables that carry high voltage to outlets and lights. Pros recommend keeping them 12 to 16 inches away. If you must cross these cables, do so at a 90 degree angle.

Find the Easiest Route

The easiest route is not always the most direct. Take advantage of unfinished spaces like basements and attics to run wire from one end of the house to the other. You might use an extra 50 feet of wire, but it will save you lots of time.

Use a Lot of Cable

Pushing far more cable than you need into the walls or ceilings is helpful for a few reasons. First, it makes the job of hooking the cable you’re fishing much easier. It also eliminates lots of tugging, which can damage fragile Cat 6 cables.

Hide Wires With Raceway

Running wire on the wall surface with raceway is a great way to get power right where you want it without fishing wires through walls. You can hide the raceway behind furniture and paint it to match the wall. Build the raceway from an existing electrical box with snap-together components and hide the wire inside the channel.

Run Conduit in Closets or Cabinets

Conduit or armored cable is another great option for surface wiring, and it’s about half the cost of raceway. You wouldn’t want to run it over your walls like you would raceway, but it won’t be visible in a dark closet or along the backs of cabinets.

Splice Like a Pro

Sometimes you have to pull hard to get a cable through a wall, so make sure the cable is securely tied to your pulling tool, whether it’s a fish tape or a coat hanger.

This is my favorite method: Put the wire through the eyelet or around the hook, then wrap it around your fishing tool. Tape them together with electrical tape, making sure to taper the wrapped section so it will slide through holes.

Don’t Run Cable in Ductwork

Running cable inside ductwork, as convenient as it may be, is not allowed by code. You can run cable in plenum spaces like stud and joist bays for return air, but you’ll need a plenum-rated cable. These cables have special jackets that are nontoxic and rated for fire.

You can find plenum-rated Cat 6 and security cable at electrical supply stores. It will cost about twice as much as standard versions.

Wire Along the Plumbing Stack

Adding power in an upper level can mean running wires from the basement to the attic. In a two-story home, you’d have three ceilings to go through. But in older homes, sometimes this is as easy as lowering a plumb bob along the plumbing vent stack and pulling up the cable. Newer homes might not have enough space around the stack, but it’s worth checking first.

Drill Two Holes to Turn a Corner

Running wire around corners isn’t as hard as it seems; the key is to cut holes on each side of the corner. With a spade bit in an angle drill, or an angle attachment, drill a hole in each of the corner studs. This will give you a path to pull wire through.

Find Obstructions

Before cutting any holes in walls, map out the route you want your wire to take. Scan the wall with a stud finder to locate any blocking that might obstruct that route. If there’s blocking in one stud bay, the next one over might make a better path. You don’t want to find out the hard way.

Double-Duty Access Holes

Instead of cutting new holes in your walls or ceilings, you can use holes that are already there. Remove light fixtures, switches or outlets to use existing holes, or plan ahead to use the access hole for a new fixture.

Hide TV Wires With a Wiring Kit

The easiest way to hide TV wires is with an in-wall TV wiring kit ($60). Just cut holes for the two boxes, drop the wire down the wall and then plug in the extension cord. The kit is prewired with a male-ended plug and comes with an extension cord. This is especially helpful if a stud blocks a direct fishing route and you want to avoid a big wall-repair project.

Tuck Low-Voltage Wires

Low-voltage cable doesn’t have the same installation requirements as household power cables. Speaker wire, cables that provide power to doorbells and thermostats, and communication lines like Cat 6 don’t need to be run inside your walls. You can just tuck them under your baseboard, but not under carpet or rugs.

Wire-fishing gear

Glow Rods

Glow rods are a staple for wire fishing. Just like steel tape, they can be pushed up walls and along ceilings. They can usually be purchased in several lengths and be screwed together for longer spans. Most come with a swivel eyelet tip and a hook tip. The luminescent rods glow in the dark, illuminating dark joist and stud bays. You can find them for $40 at home centers.

Flex Bit

If you need to run wire across a few joists or studs, reach for a flex bit. They come in long lengths, and extensions are available so you can drill holes through several joists. They have an eyelet at the tip, so once you’ve made your holes you can pull the wire back through with the same bit.

One thing to note: Don’t drill through insulation with these bits. Expect to pay about $50 for a 54-inch flex bit at a home center.

Homemade Hooks

Some of my favorite fishing tools are ones you can make yourself. Small hooks made from cable or coat hangers let you grab cable just out of reach. Best of all, they’re economical.

90-Degree Drill Attachment

This is the perfect tool for drilling holes between stud bays. About $18 at most home centers, it’s a lot cheaper than a dedicated angle drill and serves the same purpose. It can be a little tricky to use with larger bits, so hold on tight.

Wire-Pulling Magnets

With a few options at different prices, magnets are cool tools for pulling wire along an insulated stud bay. This Magnepull ($125) consists of a steel leader and a roller magnet. You can even use it to retrieve lost bits and other tools from inside walls. Wire-pulling magnets, which range from $40 to $125, can be found at electrical supply stores.

Low Voltage Mud Ring

Use mud rings to prevent marring drywall as I pull cable. They also have markers in the corner to outline the perfect hole size and shape for single-gang boxes. When you’re done fishing, leave it in the wall and cover it with a blank faceplate to avoid patching (especially useful for hard-to-patch textured walls). These mud rings are available for less than $2 each at home centers.

Steel Fish Tape

This long roll of stiff steel is great for pushing wire through insulated walls, up wall cavities and down long lengths of joists. A roll starts at $15 at home centers.

Figure A: Shelves

Figure B: Belt Line, Motor and Doors

Cutting list

Automate It!

Prints in frames: Aesthetic Apparatus

This double sliding door belt system is slick: When you slide one door, the other slides, too. To make it happen, all you need are a belt and pulleys (about $20). Even better, I added a motor and remote control ($50).

It took a lot of experimenting, but now that I’ve figured out a system, you can replicate it in an hour or two. The automation is optional. You can keep it simple and slide the doors by hand.

Mount the Cleat

Determine the height of the floating shelves, making sure to leave three inches between the cleat and the TV. Locate the wall studs, but before attaching the cleats to the wall, fasten the shelf end supports (G) to the ends of the cleat.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/cordless-compact-routers/ Tue, 23 Feb 2021 21:08:45 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=389277 Cordless tool technology has come a long way in a short time. Five years ago, I tried a first generation cordless router and hated it, thinking some tools just weren’t meant to be cordless. But I’ve been proven wrong. Today’s cordless routers can handle 90 percent of my routing tasks.

The Case for Compact Cordless

If you own a router and are considering a second, I recommend a cordless. Light edge profiles make up most of my routing, so a compact is perfect for me, and cordless is even more appealing. I grab my full-size corded router only for heavier jobs. Compact cordless routers are also a good choice for a first router. They’ll do everything a corded compact can.

Don’t Worry About Run Time

For five of the six routers we tested, the manufacturers claim they’ll rout at least 250 linear feet on a single charge. But run time partly depends on whether I’m trimming laminate or routing a big round-over.

With two batteries, all I need is a charger that keeps pace with the job at hand. And I can’t remember the last time I had to rout 250 feet of anything! All the routers we tested had sufficient run times and speedy charging, making this rating a nonissue for me.

Putting Battery Power to the Test

I put the battery-powered compact routers through the test shown below to evaluate their ease of use, run time and overall power. I started by cutting a 3/8-in.-deep groove and dado with a spiral bit, then switched to a chamfer bit and made a 1/2-in. profile along one edge and one end.

I made plenty of sawdust for this story! I tested the six routers by making four cuts each in three types of wood.

Features That Matter

Invest in Dust Extraction

Dust isn’t just messy. It builds up while you’re routing dadoes and grooves and causes burning. To avoid this and make it easier to see what you’re doing, get a dust port for your router. Many brands include them in their kits. If yours doesn’t, it’s smart to buy one.

1/4-in. Shanks Only

Compact routers accept only 1/4-in. shank bits, which aren’t outfitted with large profile cutters. For large-profile cutters with a 1/2-in. shank, you’ll need a full-size router.

Plenty of Power

When it comes to power, compact cordless routers can go toe-to-toe with their corded cousins. I tested each cordless model alongside a corded version and found no difference in power.

Consider a Plunge Base

Some compact router kits include a plunge base, some brands offer one as an add-on, and others aren’t compatible with a plunge base at all.

A plunge base lets you easily rout in stages for easier cutting and a better finish. Plunge bases provide a two-handled grip for better control and an adjustable turret, which lets you adjust the plunge depth without readjusting the final depth.

Soft Start, Fast Stop

Some compact routers instantly rev to 30,000 rpm when you flip the switch, creating a surprising kick. A soft-start feature is worth looking for, as the tool eases up to top speed for safer start-ups.

Another safety feature is an electric brake, which stops the bit almost immediately when you switch the router off. You can safely set the tool on your bench right away — no waiting for it to wind down.

Why Does Variable Speed Matter?

Large-profile bits should be run at a lower rpm than small-profile bits. This applies whether the bit has a 1/4-in. shank or a 1/2-in. shank. If the bit is “jumping” or burning your material, slow it down a little.

A Router Table is an Option

A router table makes any router much more versatile. Most are made for full-size routers, but baseplates are available to accommodate compact routers. They’re a worthwhile investment.

They’re All Small

In the not-too-distant past, I saw a few full-size cordless routers. But all the models I found recently are compact. A compact router can handle most jobs, so that’s not a problem for me.

No Need for a Bigger Battery

During my testing of these routers, I tried 5AH batteries and 2AH batteries to see if there was a power difference. There was no discernible difference. And the 2AH battery gave the router better balance; there was less of that top-heavy feeling. For this reason alone, if you have the option, go with a smaller battery.

The Routers

These routers have similar features: adjustable bases, variable speed dials and the ability to make micro adjustments. But each one has something that separates it from the rest. I paid close attention to the ease of bit adjustment, safety features, accessories and the general feel while cutting.

Bosch 12v (GKF12V)

This model is the only 12V tool on this list, but it has the power to do what the 18V tools can do. It didn’t struggle with any of the cuts I made with it. One thing I really like is that the bit is offset to one side, which lets you get more of the tool on the work surface. The height adjustment is really quick and easy.

Pros:

• The tool is lightweight and compact.
• Depth adjustments are fast with a quick-release button and fine adjustment screw.
• The spindle is offset, providing lots of room for the base to rest on a flat surface.

Cons:

• The base isn’t removable.
• The tool isn’t compatible with a plunge base.
• The unique grip design takes some getting used to.

Shop Now

DeWalt (dcw600b)

The DeWalt is the biggest of the bunch. In a class of compact routers, that’s not necessarily a plus. Of the six routers, this one has the easiest screw collar height adjustment, and it’s accurate for macro and micro adjustments. The router cuts smoothly, without chatter.

Pros:

• The base is easy to remove, and the spindle lock button has several stops for easy one-tool bit changes.
• It has a large, squared-off baseplate for accurate routing against a fence.
• Soft-start feature and fast-acting electric brake.
• Two LEDs light the work area nicely.

Cons:

• All accessories sold separately.
• It’s the most expensive tool-only router.

Shop Now

Makita (xtr01z)

The Makita is the smallest router I tested, but it has a solid feel and a sturdy, mostly aluminum body. Its heft helps with the balance, and it made the smoothest cuts of the group. The rack-and-pinion height adjustment is unique to the Makita and great for rough height changes, but fine adjustments were harder to dial in.

Pros:

• Soft-start motor.
• Power switch safety eliminates unintended power-ups.
• As a kit, it’s an incredible value: two batteries, charger, plunge base, edge guide, all in a nice tool case for about $350.

Cons:

• Small baseplate.
• No micro adjustment.
• No electric brake

Shop Now

Milwaukee (2723-20)

The Milwaukee has a comfortable rubberized grip for a solid, controlled feel. The 5AH battery gives a top-heavy feel, but the larger baseplate helps steady it on the work surface. The quick-release button lets you easily remove the base for bit changes. During my first cut the base shifted slightly, but I tightened the latch and it didn’t happen again.

Pros:

• The microadjustment knob moved the base smoother than others with a similar design.
• Includes a removable dust extraction port and two baseplates.
• Bit changes are simple and fast.

Cons:

• Out of the box, the latch needed tightening to keep the base from slipping.

Shop Now

Ridgid (r860443)

The Ridgid has features similar to other routers and includes extras like an edge guide and soft case. The body is plastic and the base doesn’t have a rubberized grip, but it’s narrower and still easy to hold. This model chattered a bit on deep cuts, but was really smooth on shallow passes.

Pros:

• The tool-only kit includes an edge guide, a dust extraction port and an extra baseplate.
• This router affords the best visibility of the bit from both sides while you’re routing.

Cons:

• The switch is awkward to operate.
• I found it difficult to raise the bit against gravity with the micro­adjustment knob. I needed to flip it upside down to make the adjustment.

Shop Now

Ryobi (p601)

The Ryobi feels a little top heavy, especially with the smaller base. On deeper cuts it chatters quite a bit, but on shallow cuts it performs well. It has high-end features, such as a micro­adjustment and a quick-release lever. A plunge base isn’t available for this router. The Ryobi cuts really well for light-duty, shallow work.

Pros:

• The quick-adjust is integrated in the same mechanism as the latch that secures the base.
• Smooth microadjust mechanism.
• The value is hard to beat.

Cons:

• The grip zone isn’t where I would grip the tool while in use.
• The heavy battery and small baseplate make the tool feel unbalanced.
• The base is a little fussy to remove for bit changes.

Shop Now

The bottom line: Stick with the battery system you have

After testing these routers, I definitely have preferences. But honestly, there isn’t a big difference between my least favorite and my favorite. They’re all good tools that I’d be happy to have in my shop.

My advice? If you’ve already invested in a battery platform, get the cordless router of the same brand. The benefit of having extra batteries outweighs any other advantages.

Make A Better Router Base

Stabilize your compact router with this easy project.

Compact routers have a small base. That, combined with one-handed operation, can make them feel slightly unstable. This simple oversize base with handles solved the problem for me. I built it in less than an hour with materials that cost about $20.

Locate the Baseplate Holes

Remove the factory baseplate and position it in the middle of a 6-in. x 10-in. piece of 1/4-in.-thick acrylic. Trace around the baseplate and inside the center hole, and mark the screw holes with a permanent marker.

Drill the Holes

Use a 1/4-in. Forstner bit to drill partway through the acrylic at the screw holes. Drill just deep enough so the screw heads will be below the surface when you mount the plate to the router. Drill a 3/16-in. hole through the centers of the counterbored holes. Cut the large center hole with a hole saw or Forstner bit.

Add Cabinet Handles

Make two more counterbored holes, centered and about 1-1/2 in. in from each end, to mount the knobs. I attached wood knobs with short wood screws. If you use machine-screw threaded knobs, you’ll have to shorten the machine screws to make them work. Attach the base to your router using the factory screws.

Caution: Silica dust can damage your lungs. Always wear a respirator when you’re drilling or cutting concrete or masonry.

What’s the Difference Between a Hammer Drill and a Rotary Hammer?

Hammer Drills

Hammer drills often come as a combination driver with a drill, drive and hammer setting. In the hammer setting, a pair of grooved discs rotate, making the chuck slam forward and back as the chuck rotates. This hammering force makes the drill bit chip into the concrete as it spins.

More pressure, more progress

When you’re using a hammer drill, more force equals faster progress. But watch out, these bits can break — ease up if it starts to bend!

Dial in the RPM

With a hammer drill, I find that slower RPM (revolutions per minute) means slower drilling, while higher RPM doesn’t mean faster drilling. The sweet spot for me is medium-high RPM. My hammer drill has two speed settings, so I use the high setting and nudge the speed up until I find that sweet spot where the bit proceeds at a steady pace.

Rotary Hammers

Rotary hammers are the hammer drill’s big brother. The motor rotates the bit and moves a piston back and forth, which gives the tool more pounding power. Many rotary hammers are multifunctional, adding drill and hammer to the basic rotary hammer function, making them far more useful.

If you have lots of drilling to do, a rotary hammer will cut your labor considerably. You can buy a rotary hammer starting at about $100.

Let the tool do the work

Unlike with a hammer drill, you don’t need to put your weight behind a rotary hammer. Too much force reduces the effectiveness of the piston motion. Apply just enough pressure to make steady progress.

My Go-To Concrete Fasteners

You’ll find a dozen fastener choices at the hardware store, all suited to different tasks. The most important thing is to drill the proper hole size for your fasteners.

Concrete Screw

I choose concrete screws for most fastening jobs because they’re easy to use, strong and removable. They range in diameter from 3/16-in. to 3/4-in., and in length from 1-1/4-in. to 6-in.

Pro Tip: An impact driver is my go-to tool for driving concrete screws. It’s the only way to go!

Plastic Anchor

Plastic anchors work the same in concrete as they do in drywall — press the anchor into the hole and it expands for a snug fit as you drive a screw into it. Plastic anchors are the cheapest option. They’re best for light-duty tasks like hanging small pictures and shelf brackets.

Sleeve Anchor

Used for heavy-duty fastening or hanging, sleeve anchors are permanent, really strong and less expensive than large concrete screws. They can be used in any concrete or masonry and have either a screw head or a nut to tighten. The sleeve expands as you tighten the nut for a firm grip.

Wedge Anchor

Wedge anchors provide the strongest connection for demanding jobs like fastening structural hardware to concrete. Hammer the anchor into the hole, then turn the nut to lock the anchor in place. Don’t use wedge anchors in brick, block or mortar joints. The force may cause cracking.

Concrete Fastening Tips From the Jobsite

Go deep

Drill your hole at least 1/4-in. deeper than the length of your fastener (1/2-in. deeper for fasteners 3/8-in. or larger in diameter). This ensures that your fastener won’t bottom out because of dust or other debris in the hole. If your drill doesn’t have a depth gauge, wrap a tape flag around the drill bit so you know how deep to go.

Fix a strip-out

So you’ve drilled your hole and for some reason your fastener doesn’t grab. Before throwing in the towel, try these options:

• Add a Wire. Push a copper wire into the hole, then drive your concrete screw.
• Drill a Bigger Hole. Upsize the hole and drive in a bigger fastener. You may also need to drill out the hole in the parts you’re fastening.

Shoot nails into concrete

If you have a lot of concrete fastening to do, consider a powder-actuated tool. It uses a gunpowder load to shoot a special nail into concrete. It’s the quickest masonry fastener available and costs as little as $25. Before you use one, go to familyhandyman.com and search for “powder actuated tool” to get the full story.

Control the dust

Concrete contains crystalline silica, which can lead to serious health issues. Always wear a respirator when drilling into concrete, but don’t stop there. A vacuum nozzle close to the action prevents most of the dust from ever going into the air.

Fasten faster with a bit kit

To speed up drilling and driving, use a special kit like this Bulldog Anchor Drive Installation Kit by Bosch. Many brands make a similar installation tool; this one costs about $40. It slips over an SDS (slotted drive shaft) bit, letting you drill and drive fasteners.

If you hit a hard spot, move on

When you’re drilling concrete, sometimes you’ll hit something that the bit can’t easily penetrate, typically a rock or rebar. Sometimes you can work through it, but it’s best to try a different spot. Even if you get through it, your fastener will hit it too and likely shear off as you’re driving it.

Drill wood with a masonry bit?

When fastening wood to masonry, some people drill through wood with a standard bit, then switch to a masonry bit. Switching isn’t worth the hassle. A masonry bit isn’t the best for wood, but it will do the job without harming the bit.

Clean out the hole

When you drill a hole, dust settles to the bottom and clings to the sides of the hole. The dust could keep your fastener from embedding all the way or cause a sleeve or wedge slip. Use a vacuum and a copper fitting brush to remove all the dust.

Stay away from the edge

A good rule of thumb is to keep an anchor away from an edge a distance of at least 12 times the diameter of the anchor. For example, a 1/4-in. anchor requires a minimum distance of three inches from an edge. Don’t use a wedge anchor in this situation — its outward force could cause a blowout.

Do I fasten to mortar or the block/brick?

Drill into mortar if you’re hanging a picture frame or lightweight holiday decorations. Mortar is a lot easier to drill into. It’s more prone to crumbling, but it’s easier to patch. When you’re hanging heavier objects like a TV, it’s better to fasten directly to the brick or block. The material is harder but still brittle, so avoid wedge anchors.

For a smoother ride, use a four-cutter bit

Two-cutter bits work fine, but four-cutter bits are better. Four-cutter bits are available at home centers for about 20 percent more than two-cutter bits. Four-cutter bits last longer, cut smoother and easier and are less likely to twist the drill out of your hand if you hit a hard rock or rebar.

Don’t bother with masonry nails

You’ll likely still find a dusty box of masonry nails tucked away at the hardware store. Leave it there. Masonry nails aren’t up to the standards of newer fasteners and anchors, and they require more effort than concrete screws.

Clear the flutes

The bit’s flutes carry dust up and out of the hole as you drill, but they can get clogged. When they do, the bit spins without making any progress. To release the dust buildup, just pull the bit out of the hole while it’s spinning. I typically do this every inch or so of depth.

It’s Like Adding More Closet Space!

A typical linen closet offers about 50 cu. ft. of storage. By enlarging the footprint of this queen-size bed by six inches on each side and 16 inches at the foot, I added the equivalent of almost half a linen closet in previously wasted space.

Slice Up the Plywood

Large sheets of plywood are difficult to cut on the table saw, and making crosscuts is unsafe.

• Set the sheet of plywood on a piece of rigid foam and make the cuts on the floor.
• The foam won’t dull the blade, your parts won’t crash to the floor, and you won’t need sawhorses.

Treat the Fuel Mix

• Use a marine grade gas stabilizer to keep the mix from going bad over the winter.  1 oz. of stabilizer treats 10 gallons.
  • • I dumped in roughly half an ounce for my 3 gallon tank and sloshed it around a bit to mix it up.

  Note:  A little more stabilizer than what is called for won’t hurt anything.

  

  ]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/coffee-dining-table/ Thu, 29 Oct 2020 19:21:53 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=375023

  A Vintage Project That Still Has Legs Today

  

  The inspiration for this project came from an article Family Handyman published way back in 1956.

  

  Project Reimaged for Today

  I thought the idea of a two-in-one table was brilliant, even for today. I used the same hinged-leg concept but updated a few key things:

  • The original article suggested using a door or solid wood for the tabletop. Plywood was available back then but in a limited range of options. Luckily for me (and you), we can now make projects faster, easier and often better with plywood.
  • In coffee table mode, this project looked awkward with its large overhangs and inward-tilted legs. So I tweaked the design and found that placing all eight legs on the floor gave the table a more balanced and unique look.
  • Since the legs will be swung in and out, I decided to build a half-lap joint instead of a miter, which would have to be reinforced. It also made assembling the legs much easier.

  

  

  

  Build up the Top

  • I started with a piece of walnut plywood cut to size. On the underside, glue three-inch-wide strips of the same plywood on the edges and pinned them into place.
  • Put one more three-inch strip in the middle and add two six-inch-wide strips to provide a mounting surface for the legs.
    • Pro tip: Doubling the top like this adds stiffness without too much additional weight.

  

  ]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-winterize-a-chainsaw/ Thu, 15 Oct 2020 21:51:26 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=370667

  Chainsaws, like all tools with small gas engines, must be put away for the winter properly. Winterizing your chainsaw before it sits for two or three months will save you lots of time and money in repairs. And it only takes about 15 minutes to ensure it’s ready to go in the spring.

  Stabilize the Gas and the Engine

  • Add a fuel stabilizer to your two-stroke gas mixture and fill the chainsaw’s gas tank.
  • Run the engine until the machine is warm to coat the entire engine with the stabilized mix.

  

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