I tend to drive old cars, so the first time I saw the puddle, I assumed the worst — an oil leak and expensive repairs. When I checked, though, it was just water. Then I remembered the air conditioner. All ACs produce water, and your car’s just drips it onto the road.

Window air conditioners, however, feature drainage systems that direct the water outside. A faulty drainage system is usually the culprit when the unit leaks onto the windowsill or the floor.

Most of the time, you can fix drainage problems yourself. Dripping can also result from frozen evaporator coils — usually an easy fix. If you have an older unit, it may be running low on refrigerant, and recharging it might cost as much as a new air conditioner.

What Causes an AC to Leak Water Inside?

An air conditioner circulates warm air past a set of evaporator coils, which cools it. Since cool air holds less moisture than warm air, the excess condenses and turns to water. It’s basically the same process that makes rain.

Some units direct the water through a tube to the outer part of the housing. In others, the blower slings the water against the compressor to cool it. In both cases, the water eventually drips into a pan at the bottom.

If water is dripping from an AC unit indoors, the reason may be one of the following:

• A blocked drainage tube: Dust from the air can mix with water and create an obstruction.
• A damaged drain pan or blocked water outlet: A damaged pan produces drips in all the wrong places, and a blocked water outlet causes an overflow.
• The drain pan tilts the wrong way: It needs to tilt toward the outside. Some window AC units give the pan this tilt when the unit is installed level. Units without this feature must be tilted during installation. If the unit wasn’t leveled properly, it’s probably been leaking since Day One.
• A dirty air filter: This prevents air from circulating freely around the evaporator coils, and the refrigerant can’t absorb the heat. That makes the coils ice over and drip water when the unit isn’t running.
• There’s a refrigerant leak: This can also cause the coils to ice over and drip when the unit is off. It requires professional repair.

What’s the First Thing To Do if an AC Is Leaking Water?

Turn the air conditioner off and wipe any water off the floor. Open the grille on the front and, if necessary, remove the air filter and look for ice on the evaporator coils.

If the coils are iced over, leave the unit off to melt the ice and put a bucket underneath to catch the water. If that’s not the issue, leave the air conditioner off while you troubleshoot. Better yet, unplug it.

How To Fix an AC Leaking Water Inside

Some window air conditioner fixes require access to the outdoor part of the unit. That can be challenging if it’s mounted in an upper-story window, or in a tall building. If you can’t reach it through the window, you might need to bring it inside. If you’re not up for that, call a pro.

Tools and materials

• Kitchen sponge;
• Screwdriver;
• Epoxy putty;
• Torpedo level;
• Shims.

Clean or replace the air filter

If you see ice, cleaning or replacing the air filter may solve the problem. Most filters are cleanable.

If so, run water through it from the faucet while you scrub out the dirt with a sponge. Let the filter dry while the ice on the coils melts, then put it back in and start the unit. If the coils ice over again, call a service tech to recharge the refrigerant.

Clear the drain hole

The drain pan for a window unit has a hole in one of the outside corners, which may be plugged. To access it, pull back or remove the skirting from one side of the unit and reach through the opening. Remove any loose debris and poke a screwdriver through the hole to open it up.

Patch or replace the drain pan

If you have an older AC and you see water dripping from any part of the drain pan, the pan’s probably rusted and you may have to replace it. If there’s just one hole and you can reach it, you can try to patch it with epoxy putty.

Clean the drain tube

The drain tube leading from the evaporator coils to the outside of the housing may be blocked. Check your owner’s manual to find where this is and clean it with a long, thin object like a sewing needle.

You may need to remove the outside housing cover to do this. If the air conditioner is mounted in a high window, open the window far enough to reach the cover or take the unit indoors.

Adjust the tilt

If a newly installed window air conditioner leaks onto the floor, it’s probably not tilted enough toward the outside.

Before you adjust it, check the manual to see if the pan is installed inside the unit at the proper angle. In that case, the air conditioner should be sitting dead-level in the window. Otherwise, it should tilt downward toward the outside.

Use a torpedo level to check it. If the AC needs to tilt outward, shim up the front with thin pieces of wood or plastic until a quarter of the bubble passes the centering line.

Non-grounding-type receptacles are called that because they lack a third prong for grounding electrical equipment, appliances and tools. Grounding is important to protect against electric shocks; the third line redirects electric current during a hazardous ground-fault condition in an appliance.

Attempting to plug three-prong appliance and equipment cords into old two-prong receptacles can be a serious electrical hazard and probably violates the manufacturer’s warranty.

The National Electrical Code (NEC) generally does not apply retroactively, so you’re not obligated to replace non-grounding-type receptacles. However, if you do replace them, the new ones must be grounded to conform to the NEC.

Replacing old receptacles used to be simple. But now, like many things, it’s more complicated. The good news is, there are multiple viable options.

Grounding-Type Receptacle Replacement

Where a grounding means exists in the receptacle box, three-prong grounding-type receptacles must be installed as replacements. The green grounding terminal on the receptacle must be connected to the grounding means. The grounding means might be a grounded metal box, or a bare or green copper equipment grounding wire in the box.

With some basic testing, you should be able to determine if a grounding means exists.

Non-Grounding-Type Receptacle Replacement

Where a grounding means does NOT exist in the receptacle box, you have a few options:

Replace with another non-grounding-type receptacle

• Non-grounding-type receptacles are still manufactured in limited quantities, so you can replace a broken one with a new one. It doesn’t enhance electrical safety, but allows you to make a necessary repair in a pinch.
• Don’t use three-prong adapters with two-prong plugs. If not installed properly, they can be a serious safety hazard.

Replace with a ground-fault circuit-interrupter (GFCI) receptacle

• This significantly improves safety. You won’t have a grounding means for your appliances, but the GFCI provides shock protection by tripping and stopping the flow of electricity during a ground-fault condition.

• If you select this option, the receptacle or cover plate must be labeled “No Equipment Ground.” The labels are included in the package when you buy the GFCI receptacle.

Replace with a grounding-type receptacle

• If you have a branch circuit with a series of daisy-chained receptacles around a room, you can install a GFCI receptacle in the first receptacle box as mentioned above, then install standard grounding-type receptacles in the downstream receptacle boxes. Say you have a branch circuit that supplies four receptacles in one bedroom, then it jumps over to supply four receptacles in another bedroom. You only need one GFCI in the first receptacle box on that circuit in the first bedroom, and seven standard receptacles in the remaining downstream boxes on that circuit.
• The GFCI receptacle must be labeled “No Equipment Ground,” and the other downstream standard grounding-type receptacles or their cover plates must be labeled “GFCI Protected” and “No Equipment Ground.” These labels are provided by the manufacturer when you buy the GFCI receptacle.

Are There Other Code Requirements When Replacing Receptacles?

In recent years, the NEC added new rules for replacement receptacles. These are applicable to any type of existing receptacle you replace, two-prong or three-prong.

Ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection (GFCI)

GFCI technology protects people from lethal shocks. If you replace an existing two-prong or three-prong receptacle at a location that must otherwise have GFCI protection in the current NEC — say, next to your bathroom sink — you need to provide GFCI protection.

Arc-fault circuit-interrupter protection (AFCI)

AFCI technology protects people and property from fire hazards. If you replace an existing two- or three-prong receptacle at a location that must otherwise have AFCI protection in the current NEC, like in a bedroom model, you need to provide AFCI protection. Best to install an AFCI circuit breaker at your main panel.

Tamper-resistant receptacles (TR)

A tamper-resistant receptacle has built-in shutters to prevent young children from inserting foreign objects into the receptacle. When replacing existing receptacle outlets, all replacement receptacles must be tamper-resistant.

Weather-resistant receptacles (WR)

Weather-resistant receptacles feature corrosion-resistant components. When properly installed in a weatherproof enclosure, they provide extra durable protection from rain, snow, ice and moisture.

If you replace an existing receptacle at a location that otherwise requires weather-resistant receptacles in the current NEC, the replacement receptacles must be weather-resistant. So if you replace an old outdoor GFCI receptacle, then the replacement GFCI receptacle needs to be marked WR.

Learn the Anatomy of a Central Home Air Conditioner

Central home air conditioner service systems consist of two major components: a condenser that sits outside your house and the evaporator coil (often referred to as an A-coil) that sits in the plenum of your furnace or air handler. The refrigerant in the A-coil picks up the heat from your home and moves it to the outdoor condensing unit. The condensing unit fan blows outside air through the condensing coil to remove the heat. The condensing unit houses the three parts replaceable by a DIYer: the AC contactor, the start/run capacitor(s) and the condenser fan motor. The condensing unit also houses the compressor, but only a pro can replace that. The A-coil has no parts that can be serviced by a DIYer.

It worked. And if I had trees, bushes and flowers to water, it would have been twice as useful. Plant watering is the main reason why more homeowners are looking into installing grey water systems.

“What a waste it is to flush toilets with such a precious resource as clean drinking water,” says Lauren Anderson, academy director at Earthship Biotecture in New Mexico.

Earthship’s headquarters, in the desert, only gets around seven inches of rain a year. But all the houses in that neighborhood have such sophisticated rain capture and grey water systems that residents grow their own produce and rarely need supplemental water from wells.

For those of us in standard houses, installing a grey water system can still make a big difference. Households can reuse around two-thirds of their indoor water on outdoor irrigation. Considering outdoor use makes up between 30% and 70% of our water bills, that can save money, plus upwards of 40,000 gallons of water a year.

What Is Grey Water?

Grey water is wastewater from showers, baths, washing machines and bathroom sinks. It should not be confused with black water, aka wastewater from the toilet. Some states consider water from kitchen sinks and dishwashers to be black water, while others don’t.

Regardless of where you live, kitchen water contains higher levels of grease and organic material than other sources of grey water.

What Can You Use Grey Water For?

Grey water is most commonly used for outdoor irrigation.

“Simple systems take unfiltered grey water and distribute it to larger plants, like trees and bushes,” says Laura Allen, the cofounder of Greywater Action. Her group teaches people how to design and install grey water irrigation systems.

Other types of systems filter the water so it can be distributed by a special drip irrigation system. More complex systems can filter the water to flush toilets.

Is Grey Water Dangerous?

No. With basic health and safety precautions, grey water is safe to use.

Because it could carry bacteria and viruses and chemicals left over from your laundry, you should never drink it, or allow anyone to touch it. Don’t use it on root vegetables, and don’t let it touch the edible portion of any food plant. It should also never be sprayed or allowed to pool up, run off the property or run too close to a waterway.

What Is a Grey Water System?

One that allows you to direct grey water to the landscape or toilet for reuse, back to a septic tank, or down the city water drain.

Some grey water systems rely on gravity to move the water outside. Others employ a small tank with a pump inside to push water uphill or across a flat landscape. Many systems use a natural mulch filter in the landscape to catch hair and debris before the water soaks into the soil. Others feature an external filter you must clean by hand.

“The system is a pass through,” says Remy Sabiani, owner of Water Wise Group. “You’re going to take a shower and pretty much at the same time you’re going to water your plants. You’re going to do a load of laundry, and pretty much at the same time you’re going to water your plants.”

The best way to save water with this system? “Figure out how much grey water your home produces,” says Allen. “Then, determine how much water your plants need so you can properly irrigate them.”

Can You DIY a Grey Water System?

Yes. If you have basic plumbing and landscaping skills, you can install a simple “laundry-to-landscape” type system. This taps into water directly from the washing machine and without altering the plumbing of your home. The materials cost around $300.

Some water agencies offer incentives to offset the cost for this system. Other systems warrant more plumbing skills, and some require a professional installer.

Also, you’ll need to research state, county and city regulations, because the legality of grey water systems varies. It often depends on the type of system, where it’s installed (home or business) and the volume of water that passes through it.

Also, keep in mind you’re typically not allowed to store grey water for more than 24 hours. You should avoid products high in salt or containing Boron. Organizations like Greywater Action provide info on what soaps are safe for your plants and how to install a grey water system.

That’s often a penny-wise but dollar-foolish decision for two reasons. Homeowners end up paying more for repairs in the long run than a replacement would cost, and also waste money on inefficient heating and cooling.

Tim David, the CEO of Airlucent.com and an HVAC pro with more than 25 years of experience, says upgraded energy efficiency requirements from the Department of Energy are making new HVAC systems more expensive. “Consumers … should expect slightly higher costs for equipment, but better efficiency on their energy bills,” he says.

Still, HVAC system replacement is often more cost-effective than repairing an outdated system. It’s like spending thousands keeping your 20-year-old clunker on the road versus buying a modern, fuel-efficient vehicle.

According to HomeAdvisor, the national average cost for installing a new HVAC system is around $7,000, but that depends on several factors. Here are some tips to determine your costs for a new HVAC system.

Factors That Determine the Cost of HVAC System Replacement

The cost of HVAC replacement depends on where you live and the nature of the system (furnace vs. heat pump). It could range from $3,000 to $10,000. David says it costs about $3,000 to install a new electric furnace, and $5,000 to $8,000 to install a new heat pump.

“With the subsidies now in place for upgrading your home to be more energy efficient, you can claim up to $2,000 as a write-off,” says David. “And if you upgrade your insulation/windows, that could be another $1,200.”

It should be noted the $2,000 subsidy applies only to heat pumps. It’s part of the federal government’s move toward electric home heating methods.

If you already have a gas furnace and it makes sense to continue using gas, replacing your furnace will range from $3,800 to $10,000, or slightly higher if you opt for a high-efficiency model. If you heat your home with oil, furnace replacement will run between $6,750 and $10,000. These costs are determined by:

• The brand of equipment;
• The size of your home’
• Your climate zone;
• The local cost of labor.

Signs That It’s Time for a New HVAC System

David says it’s time for replacement when your system is at least 15 years old, and you have to call out an HVAC tech at least once a year for three consecutive years.

Both conditions indicate the system is functioning at a lower efficiency it should, wasting energy and money. David also notes if a single repair approaches 50% of the cost of a new system, you should just replace it.

“Most likely, something major is going on,” says David. “And if you don’t replace the whole thing, then you could be adding unnecessary stress to other older parts that don’t get replaced.”

DIY vs. Hiring Pros

It’s technically possible for a homeowner to DIY an HVAC installation, but David doesn’t recommend it. “HVAC systems are complex, require permits and specialized tools, and involve safety hazards,” he says. “Improper installation can result in poor performance, higher energy bills, and safety hazards for homeowners and their families.”

Another problem with DIY installation: It may void the product warranty. Most HVAC parts manufacturers require installation by licensed HVAC contractors for the warranty to be valid.

“Even if you have the necessary skills, although you will be able to save on labor costs, DIY installation can result in unforeseen additional costs due to mistakes, safety hazards, and the need to hire a professional to fix any issues that arise,” says David.

Questions To Ask HVAC Contractors

With government subsidies for HVAC upgrades now in effect, an HVAC contractor is the best person to advise you on how to take advantage of them. You can ask questions like:

• Is my home a good candidate for a heat pump?
• I want to continue using gas. Is it worth it to upgrade to a high-efficiency furnace?
• Will it make any difference to my comfort level and energy bill if I spend more money for a system with a higher efficiency rating than the minimum required?
• Will this HVAC replacement involve any changes to other components of the system, including the air handler and ductwork?

Of course, before hiring any contractor, always verify licensing and how long they’ve been in business. To avoid overcharging or substandard service, it’s also a good idea to check references and reviews on social media.

Like many projects, careful planning is a must to ensure proper installation. Always remember, safety first.

Here’s some additional advice about outdoor hot tub wiring and questions to ask before you buy a hot tub.

Before You Start Your Indoor Hot Tub Wiring Project

Don’t proceed until you’ve considered the following:

Type of hot tub

There’s more than one kind of hot tub (aka spa), and the National Electrical Code (NEC) has different rules for different types. Here, we’re talking about self-contained hot tubs.

The hot tub should include a label indicating it’s approved for indoor use. Look for a manufactured unit that includes the tub vessel, water pumps, water heaters and control equipment, all entirely under the skirt.

Hot tub safety certification

Be sure the hot tub is certified and labeled by a nationally recognized testing laboratory like UL, ETL, CSA, MET or another accredited product evaluation and certification organization.

Location

For safety, receptacle outlets, lighting, switches and other electrical apparatus must be out of reach of people in the tub.

Self-contained hot tubs feature a removable panel for access to the main electrical control panel, water pumps and other equipment within the skirting. Make sure there’s at least 36 inches of permanent space in front of the access panel.

Electrical capacity

A hot tub uses a lot of power. This usually requires a dedicated feeder or branch circuit rated at 120/240 volts, and anywhere from 30 to 50 amperes.

Electrical connection

Self-contained tubs may be cord connected, convertible or permanently wired.

A convertible hot tub comes from the factory with a power-supply cord but may be field-converted for a permanent connection.

Permits and inspections

Whether you install the wiring yourself or hire a licensed electrical contractor, your local building inspection office will require permits and inspections. An electrical inspection is the most affordable insurance you can buy!

Gather Tools and Materials

Save time and frustration by gathering these items before starting a hot tub wiring project.

Tools

• Hearing protection, safety glasses, work gloves and sturdy footwear.
• Electrician’s diagonal and side cutting pliers and tongue-and-groove pipe pliers.
• Digital multimeter and noncontact voltage sniffer.

Materials

The nameplate on your hot tub will display the voltage and amperage requirements. These dictate the size of circuit breakers, cables and wires, conduits and other electrical materials.

Your existing main service panel will dictate the type and style of the feeder circuit breaker that supplies the hot tub maintenance disconnect switch. Other conditions at your home will also impact the installation. Before you start, gather these materials:

• Hot tub maintenance disconnect switch with factory-installed GFCI protection.
• Four-wire Type SER aluminum service-entrance cable (two hots, one neutral, one equipment grounding wire).
• Two-pole, 240-volt feeder breaker for the main service panel.
• One-inch Schedule 40 PVC conduit and fittings, or one-inch liquid-tight flexible nonmetallic conduit and fittings.
• #6 AWG copper insulated wire (black, red, white and green).

Indoor Hot Tub Wiring Checklist

Make a checklist to guide you through the process:

1. Gather all of the necessary materials and tools.
2. Turn off the MAIN breaker at your service panel.
3. Put on safety glasses, work gloves and sturdy footwear and carefully remove the cover from your service panel.
4. DANGER! The incoming wires from the electric utility meter will still be energized (hot).
5. Install the hot tub feeder circuit breaker in any suitable vacant space in the service panel.
6. From the hot tub feeder circuit breaker, install the Type SER cable from the service panel to the maintenance switch at the hot tub location.
7. The maintenance switch must be readily accessible, within sight of the tub, and at least five feet from the inside walls of the tub.
8. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installing wiring from the maintenance disconnect switch to the hot tub control panel. Options may include a cord-and-plug connection, Schedule 40 PVC conduit or liquid-tight flexible nonmetallic conduit.
9. Once all of the wiring connections have been terminated and the wiring is safe to be energized, turn on the feeder circuit breaker at the service panel and the GFCI circuit breaker at the hot tub disconnect switch.
10. Use your voltage tester to check for proper voltages. If everything is good, test the hot tub.

Indoor Hot Tub Wiring Reminders

Keep these things in mind before wiring your indoor hot tub:

• You must follow the National Electrical Code (NEC) and the hot tub manufacturer’s installation instructions.
• Self-contained indoor hot tubs generally require a four-wire branch circuit with two hot conductors, a neutral conductor and an equipment grounding conductor.
• Hot tubs require ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection (GFCI).
• Check the manufacturer’s installation instructions to see if copper wire is required for the final connection to the hot tub control panel.
• At least one general-purpose 15- or 20-ampere GFCI-protected receptacle must be provided for tub maintenance. It must be not less than six feet and not more than 10 feet from the inside wall of the tub.
• All other receptacles in the area must be at least six feet, measured horizontally, from the inside walls of the tub.
• All receptacles rated 120 volts through 240 volts, 60 amperes or less, and within 10 feet of the inside walls of the tub must be GFCI protected.
• Light fixtures, lighting outlets and ceiling-suspended paddle fans located over the hot tub or within five feet from the inside walls of the hot tub must meet specific clearances from the maximum water level as follows:
  • Light fixtures are permitted to be installed less than seven feet, six inches if they meet either one of the two following conditions: 1. The lighting is GFCI protected, approved for use in a damp location, and it’s recessed in the ceiling with a glass or plastic lens, or 2. The lighting is GFCI protected, approved for use in a damp location, it’s surface-mounted with a glass or plastic globe, and it has a nonmetallic body.
  • Light switches must be located at least five feet, measured horizontally, from the inside walls of the hot tub.

Best Overall Tankless Water Heater

Rinnai Condensing Tankless Water Heater

For the average family of four, you can’t go wrong with the Rinnai Condensing Tankless Water Heater. This natural gas model is our pick for the overall best tankless water heater because it can heat up to seven gallons per minute of water.

However, running it around four gallons per minute will cost you only about $130 a year to operate. It’s Energy Star-certified, and you’ll have enough water to run the dishwasher and two showers simultaneously. If you have higher water needs, there are models under the same line capable of up to 11 gallons per minute.

Pros

• Costs little to run
• Comes with a warranty
• Wi-Fi compatible
• Energy Star-certified

Cons

• Some buyers say the fan is loud

Shop Now

Many people find their hair is drier when showering with unfiltered or hard water, and dry hair can be more prone to fizziness and dandruff. A water filter can also be used to treat dry skin. If you have eczema or psoriasis, you might find that a shower filter is just what you need to help relieve dryness.

With more than 11,000 five-star ratings on Amazon, the AquaHome in-line shower head filter is designed to remove harsh chemicals and heavy metals from your tap water. Plus, the filter can be installed in seconds on almost any showerhead without tools.

We tested the popular AquaHome shower head filter to see if it lives up to the hype—scroll on to find out how we tested the AquaHome filter and what we discovered after thoroughly using the product.

What Is the AquaHome Shower Head Filter?

The AquaHome shower head filter helps remove chloramine, fluoride, chlorine, heavy metals, sediment and pesticides from tap water. It comes in a 15- and 20-stage filter design, which cleans your water and reduces dry skin, hair and nails.

Additionally, the AquaHome connects to virtually any showerhead type, including fixed, rain, handheld and smart showerheads. The installation process is quick and doesn’t require any tools (unless your showerhead is screwed on so tightly that a wrench is needed to unscrew it). Before installing the shower filter, you’ll want to wrap Teflon tape around the thread of the shower arm and shower filter. The filter fits between the shower arm and the shower head.

Why is the AquaHome Shower Head Filter Trending?

The AquaHome is super popular among TikTokers like @haulswithhales because it’s said to help with hair loss, rosacea and keratosis pilaris (those little bumps on the skin sometimes called “chicken skin”). More than anything, users note noticeable improvements in their hair health.

@haulswithhales If you were to only buy one thing I recommend from Amazon, let it be this!!! #amazonfinds #waterfilter #showerfilter #bestamazonproducts #amazonbathroomfinds #lifechangingproducts ♬ original sound – Haley | Best Amazon Finds

In addition to adding shine to your hair, a water filter like the AquaHome can relieve itchiness, dandruff and eczema. It can also prevent the growth of fungi, bacteria and mold in your shower area, which can harm your health. Because the AquaHome is affordable and easy to install, people are snatching it up left and right to try it out for themselves.

How We Tested It

We tested the AquaHome shower head filter to see if the claims about improved hair and skin texture are valid.

The installation process was as easy as removing the handheld showerhead, twisting the filter onto the shower arm and reattaching the showerhead. You’ll want to use Teflon tape and tightly attach the filter and showerhead to prevent leaks.

I showered with the AquaHome for about two weeks and noticed a few key differences in my shower experience. Firstly, my shower water smelled and tasted better. (I wasn’t filling up glasses of water from my showerhead, but water inevitably gets into my eyes and mouth during a shower.)

And just like filtered tap water from the kitchen sink, the filtered water from my shower was tangibly cleaner. Beyond a difference in my water’s taste and smell, I also noticed less soap scum buildup on my shower floor and walls (a sign of hard water from calcium reacting with soap to form a residue).

Now, for the part you’ve probably been scrolling for, did I notice improvements in my hair and skin? Yes and no. My hair seemed softer and bouncier after using the AquaHome filter, but the jury’s still out on skin improvements.

For reference, I have straight, coarse hair prone to frizz, which often looks weighed down. Showering with a filter reduced frizz and made my hair feel lighter. I don’t color my hair, so I can’t speak to how it affects color-treated hair, but multiple users noted that the filter helps their hair color stay bright longer.

I also have extremely sensitive skin and keratosis pilaris. Eczema and psoriasis are other skin issues I deal with on and off. While I rarely emerge from a hot shower without looking like a tomato, the AquaHome reduced some of the redness and itchiness I experience post-shower. It also seemed to soften spots on my skin where I don’t always apply lotion, like the back of my shoulders.

I tested the AquaHome shower head filter during extreme winter weather, so I was more proactive about applying lotion after each shower. However, my skin didn’t seem to dry out as much in between showers when using the filter.

The most significant difference I noticed while using the shower filter was in my hair. Perhaps with long-term use, I would see more differences in skin texture and softness. Still, I didn’t notice anything incredibly noteworthy about how the filtered water affected my skin.

AquaHome Shower Head Filter Product Features

The AquaHome is a lightweight shower filter available in five colors to match your existing showerhead. It comes with two filter cartridges that will last six months each, Teflon tape and rubber o-rings so that you have everything you need for installation.

Install the AquaHome filter in either the bathroom or kitchen to clean water wherever you need it most. Worried about the filter affecting the water pressure? Don’t sweat it–the filter won’t reduce existing water pressure, so you don’t have to worry about it changing the shower experience you love.

Pros

• Affordable
• Easy to install
• Available in 5 finishes
• Compatible with most shower arms and showerheads
• Comes with everything needed for instillation
• Includes extra shower filter cartridge

 Cons

• Can’t return if opened or used

FAQ

Do shower filters actually work?

In short, yes, shower filters do work. One of the main reasons for using a shower filter is to remove chlorine, which can negatively affect skin, hair, throats and lungs. While some experts say that shower filters don’t treat all of the water quality issues they claim to, most do well at managing chlorine-related issues, which can specifically affect the hair and skin.

What type of shower filter is the best?

The best shower filter will remove as many impurities as possible that can lead to dry skin and hair concerns. Shower filters that are easy to install, cost-efficient and don’t cause any leaks are ideal. Some filters will infuse vitamins for better hair care—the AquaHome infuses water with vitamin C.

The most effective shower filters use a KDF (Kinetic Degradation Fluxion) process to filter the chlorine and other impurities out of water. The AquaHome uses a KFD-55 system, the most common among KFD filters.

Is a shower filter good for hair?

Shower filters are vital in removing excess chlorine from your water, which affects hair. Your hair (and skin) will be dry and damaged if too much chlorine absorbs into the follicles.

How long do shower filters last?

Shower filters typically last for six months, depending on your chosen filter. The AquaHome filter should last the prescribed time of six months. Although some filters can last longer, we recommend regular replacement to ensure effectiveness (like you’d see for a fridge filter).

What Other Shoppers Had to Say

This time, instead of fungi-inspired lamps, you’ll soon be seeing doughnut lamps—and yes, they are shaped like the sweet pastries. Doughnut lamps, also known as donut lamps, bring an unexpected look to rooms and can fit many decor aesthetics from mid-century modern to industrial and anywhere in-between.

What Is a Doughnut Lamp?

Doughnut lamps are sculptural lamps shaped like a circle with a hole in the center. In structure, they resemble the breakfast item, which is why they’ve received the nickname “doughnut lamp.” The lamp style combines a modern sensibility with a retro vibe and shape, so they fit perfectly in a mid-century modern room, gallery or eclectic space that combines several influences to create a cohesive design.

Depending on the iteration, doughnut lamps may feature a modern or earthy color and texture such as with a white ceramic or stoneware base, or a modern vintage look with orange glass. When lit, doughnut lamps might cast a dreamy, cozy glow, as with the case of the glass version from IKEA, or a nice, bright table-side light.

These stand-out pieces should fit just about any modern aesthetic, but if you aren’t sold on doughnut-shaped lighting, take a look at these modern table lamps for a wider range of options.

Where Can I Get a Doughnut Lamp?

The doughnut lamp leading the trend is none other than IKEA’s VARMBLIXT LED Table and Wall Lamp ($50). The VARMBLIXT lamp features a round body with an orange glass shade shaped like a doughnut. Designed by Sabine Marcelis in partnership with IKEA, the VARMBLIXT features a mounting system that makes it possible to put it on the wall, but you can also use it as a table lamp. The interesting design is also quite utilitarian—it comes with an energy-saving LED light source, so there’s no need to change the lightbulb. If you want to get your hands on the IKEA doughnut lamp, the entire VARMBLIXT collection will roll out in stores nationwide starting February 2023. You’ll also be able to order the doughnut lamp online through IKEA’s website.

Other doughnut lamps are available from online stores like Amazon and Wayfair, or small stores through Etsy, though their designs vary. For instance, this sculptural doughnut wicker pendant lamp ($195) will bring a retro vibe to your space. However, lamps built like the one from the VARMBLIXT are few and far between—IKEA may have started a new trend!

For those who like the mushroom and doughnut trend and can’t decide on just one, there’s a funky orange lamp from Lumens ($320) that looks like a mushroom sprouting a doughnut top—the perfect unexpected combo. You can also get a similar white mushroom-doughnut lamp from Etsy for $168.

Here’s some great news: There are plenty of lighting solutions that can illuminate your home without any harshness. Today, we’re going to share one of our favorite hacks that a creator on TikTok popularized. Trust us: This trick is going to have you clicking “add to cart” on Amazon in no time!

How to Light a Room Without Overhead Lights

If you love lighting ideas that are easy to hide, you’re going to love this hack. In this viral video, TikTok user @our_gaff_ demonstrates how they easily adhere LED light strips to a wall in their home using simple Command strips.

In this quick DIY, the creator brings a glow to their living space in a matter of minutes, making this one of the most simple hacks for ambient lighting. Plus, visitors won’t ever notice the LED light strips behind the couch—just the radiant light they provide. Give it a try, and we’re willing to bet you’ll be hooked.

@our_gaff_ DIY LED sofa light! Command strips and led lights are all you need 😁 #diysofalight #diy #homehacks #sofa #moodlighting #homeideasdecor #homedecorideasuk #ukhomedecor ♬ original sound – GeeOfDee

In the video, the creator places the light strips behind their couch. The result is soft, ambient lighting that brightens up the entire space—not to mention how it elevates the vibe of their living room. We love the look of the light strips behind the couch, but you could also adhere these in other locations in your home, too. And if you really want to add some funky flair to your space, you can switch it up with these colored lights that are going viral on TikTok!

Other Ideas for Lighting a Room Without Overhead Lights

If you’re really committed to mood lighting, you may be seeking additional ways to keep your space bright while contributing to the ambiance of your home. Here are some of our other favorite no overhead lighting solutions you can try.

Wall Sconces

Wall sconces score major points because they look elegant and add desirable soft lighting. These would be a valuable addition to several rooms in your home, but especially your bedroom. Place one on either side of your bed, and you’ve got yourself a gorgeous night light perfect for doing some reading before bed.

Table Lamps

Of course, you can’t go wrong with an old reliable table lamp. Whether you want to experiment with modern table lamp styles or keep it traditional, adding a few of these to your living room will keep it well-lit and stylish.

Floor Lamps

Don’t underestimate how much visual interest floor lamps can add to a living space! Choose the right floor lamp and it’s both a statement piece and valuable lighting. You can even build your own floor lamp.

Cove Lighting

Effective lighting is especially important in places such as the kitchen where precision is your top priority. Give cove lighting a try if you’re seeking a unique, ambient light in that room.

Unfortunately, CDC-approved portable high-efficacy particulate air (HEPA) cleaners can be expensive at $300 to $600 each. While you can certainly buy cheaper options, they may not be as effective.

The Corsi-Rosenthal Box

With these limitations in mind, Richard Corsi, dean of Engineering at UC Davis, and Jim Rosenthal, chief executive of Tex-Air filters, teamed up to create an affordable DIY option in August 2020. The resulting Corsi-Rosenthal Box is easy to assemble, cost-effective and uses items you likely already have around your home.

In terms of efficacy, scientists at the National Institute for Safety and Health performed a study proving that the Corsi-Rosenthal Box “reduced aerosol exposure up to 73%, depending on the design, filter thickness, and fan airflow.” A second trial from Brown University and the Massachusetts-based nonprofit the Silent Spring Institute showed that the boxes reduced the synthetic chemical PFAS by 40 to 60% and phthalates by 30 to 60% in the rooms in which they were installed.

How This DIY Air Cleaner Works

The fan in the bow pulls contaminated air through the filters, where contaminated particles are trapped. Clean air then flows into the middle of the box, and is pushed out again by the fan. The box thus helps reduce the spread of pathogens, as well as dust, pollen, wildfire debris and cleaning chemicals.

If you place the box in a 10 x 10 x 10-foot room, with the fan on low, you can expect it to filter about one-third of the room’s air every minute. This is referred to as its “clean air delivery rate,”  300 to 400 cubic feet per minute for the Corsi-Rosenthal Box.

Make Your Own DIY Air Cleaner

@ucsandiego

UC San Diego grad student Adam Cooper shows us how to make a DIY air purifier to help stop the spread of Covid-19 #ucsd #ucsandiego #sciencetok #covid19

♬ original sound – UC San Diego

If you’d like to try the Corsi-Rosenthal Box for yourself, here’s everything you need to know to build one yourself.

Materials

To make the air cleaner, you will need:

• 4 (20 x 20 x 2-inch) household air filters
• 1 (20-inch) box fan
• Cardboard (such as the box the fan came in)
• Scissors
• Duct tape

The most important part of sourcing your materials is ensuring the quality of your air filters. Look for filters that have a MERV-13 rating, which confirms the filter’s ability to trap particles of a specific size.

According to Washington Post reporter Lena Sun, who recently tried building the box, these materials should set you back about $130. This does not take into account any materials you may already have on hand.

Directions

Corsi himself walks through the process here.

1. Gather your materials.
2. Position the shell. Position the filters so that the pleats are vertical, are the airflow arrows on the filters all point inside the box. For maximum durability and a perfectly square cube, abut the filters so that one skinny edge connects with the longer side of the other filter, continuing this pattern all around.
3. Secure the shell with duct tape. Seal the full length of every connecting edge with duct tape so there are no gaps. Doubling up the tape is even better.
4. Build the floor of the box. Cut your cardboard to fit the bottom of the box, then attach it to the filters with duct tape, sealing every edge completely.
5. Position the box fan on the sixth side of the cube so that it will blow air out of the box into the surrounding room. Attach the box fan to the filters, ensuring that all gaps are completely taped up. If needed, you can use small pieces of cardboard in the corners to make sure no air escapes.
6. Lastly, because a box fan’s blades do not reach fully to the corners of the fan, you need to cover those corners up with cardboard. The simplest way is to cut out triangles and tape them to the top of the fan, but if you’re feeling ambitious, you can cut a circle in the blades’ diameter out of a square and attach that.
7. And that’s it! Plug the fan into an electrical outlet and turn it on!

Other Projects

Now that you’ve upped your COVID safety in the house, why not make another batch of masks? You don’t even need a sewing machine. Or, if this project inspired you to clean the air in your garage, try building a dust filter fan using any leftover filters. Stay safe and healthy out there!

Best Overall

Frigidaire High Humidity Dehumidifier

With an impressive 60 pint capacity and the ability to fully customize your humidity levels, this Frigidaire dehumidifier is perfectly suited for basement use. The straightforward controls and digital readout allow you to easily select your fan speed, and an internal sensor automatically shuts the unit off when it reaches your desired humidity setting.

You can either empty the reservoir when it fills up, or if you have floor drains nearby, use a separate hose to continuously drain as it works. Even more: Upkeep is a breeze with the easy-to-clean washable filter.

Pros

• Easy to use
• Very quiet
• Large capacity is perfect for bigger spaces

Cons

• Expensive

Shop Now

• If possible, dig a trench five to six inches wide and as deep as the soil will allow from your water source to the area under your house where you plan to route the supply line. (Some areas have enough soil to bury the line, but not enough to protect it from freezing.) Where you route water into your home depends on your floor plan and the location of your water pressure tank. I brought in my supply line into my laundry room because that’s where my pressure tank is, and where my interior water pipes branch from.
• Lay lengths of 4-in.-dia. ABS pipe end to end in the bottom of the trench, or on the ground/bedrock if you can’t dig.
• Join the ABS ends together with ABS cement. If it’s a drilled well, extend the pipe to the well casing. If it’s a cistern, go to the main outlet. And if it’s a lake, right to the water.
• Thread a one-inch water supply pipe through the ABS pipe and connect it to your water source with a PEX expansion ring and ProPEX expander tool. Be sure to use PEX pipe because it won’t burst if the system ever fails and the water freezes.

Luckily, there are a few things you can do to get your home warm and toasty again! We’ve rounded up six common conditions that cause furnaces to blow cold air, along with DIY fixes.

Incorrect Fan Settings

When troubleshooting, always start with the easiest possible solution. In this case, it’s the thermostat fan setting.

Check to see if the fan is set to ‘On.’ If it is, then it will blow air continually, whether or not the furnace produces heat. If your furnace always blows air, sometimes hot and sometimes cold, then it’s likely a fan setting issue.

This is more common on older thermostats with a physical fan control switch. These old-school switches can easily be bumped by an oblivious adult or a playing child. (I’ve seen this happen when moving furniture past a hallway thermostat.)

In this case, the fix is easy: Move the setting from ‘On’ to ‘Auto’ and see if that resolves the problem.

Dirty Filter

If your furnace or heat pump completes a full cycle but the air never quite warms up, it’s likely due to a clogged furnace filter.

This issue may seem counterintuitive. Most homeowners assume a blocked filter would prevent air from coming through the vents at all. But a furnace with a clogged filter still runs, and the blower still pushes air through the vents.

Of course, all that moving air comes from somewhere. The blower draws air through the path of least resistance. Normally, that’s through the filter and across the heating element. But if a dirty filter blocks it, the air will move through any crack or hole in the furnace body or vent system.

If your furnace is blowing cold air, check the filter to see if it should be replaced. After that, be sure to change your filter regularly and always use the properly-sized replacement. Clogged filters can cause any central heating system to blow cold air.

Pilot Light or Igniter Issues

Gas furnaces use a pilot light or igniter to spark natural gas into flame. If the pilot light goes out or the igniter fails, the heat will never kick on. Instead, the furnace will circulate cold air until the system recognizes the problem and shuts down. You’ll notice a strong, stable flow of cold air, then an abrupt stop.

Most newer furnaces don’t use a pilot light; they feature a solid-surface igniter that raises its temperature high enough to engage the natural gas. If your furnace has a bad igniter, it will need to be replaced. An extinguished pilot light can be relit; simply follow the directions on the furnace. If the pilot light keeps going out, it may need cleaning.

Dirty Flame Sensor

If your gas furnace begins to blow cold air, then cuts off abruptly, it could also be the flame sensor, which sits in the path of the flame. If the furnace cycles up but the sensor fails to detect the flame’s heat, it shuts down the furnace to prevent gas from invading your home.

It’s an essential safety feature, but the flame sensor can collect debris on its surface. If that happens, it will give a false alarm, ending the cycle before the circulating air can move from cold to warm.

Luckily, there’s a quick and easy fix. Turn off the power to the furnace, remove the flame sensor and clean it off with an emery cloth or fine steel wool. Use a light touch to avoid damaging the sensor, scraping along, not across, the surface. And never use a coarse grit sandpaper.

Once you get your furnace up and running again, order a replacement sensor. For most furnaces, they run around $10.

Flames sensors are found on gas furnaces, as well as heat pumps with a gas furnace as backup.

Clogged Condensate Line

All high-efficiency gas furnaces have a condensate line, as will any furnace connected to a central AC system. In all cases, this line allows excess water produced by the AC and furnace to drain away from the unit.

If dirt or debris block the line, water will back up. That will trigger a shut-off safety switch, or interfere with or damage the furnace. In either case, the furnace may not light. It will blow cold air, then shut down.

Fuel Issues

It’s possible a gas furnace won’t heat because it’s not getting a proper gas supply. This is another scenario where the furnace will blow cold air and then shut down.

Double-check the shut-off valves to make sure they’re open. If there’s still no gas reaching the furnace, it indicates an issue somewhere in that system. While it’s possible to troubleshoot gas lines, this kind of repair is best left to the pros. The risks are high and too many things could go wrong.

An electric furnace will blow cold or lukewarm air if one or more of the heating elements malfunctions. Replacing a heating element is complicated enough to warrant bringing in a pro.

But gas furnaces do have some downsides. For one thing, they have a lot of complex parts. Knowing which parts need cleaning and maintenance can be difficult for homeowners. If you’ve got a gas furnace in your home, you’ll definitely need to know how to clean and maintain your furnace ignitor.

Why Do You Need To Clean a Furnace Ignitor?

Furnace ignitors require occasional cleaning to prevent carbon buildup. If your furnace suddenly won’t light, there’s a decent chance a dirty ignitor is the culprit. That’s why it’s vital to know which kind of ignitor your furnace has.

Different models have different styles of ignitors, and the cleanup procedure varies slightly from one ignitor type to the next. Look up your furnace model number to identify which ignitor you have and what it looks like, clean and dirty.

How To Identify a Furnace Ignitor

All gas furnace ignitors are housed near the burners, behind a protective metal panel you’ll need to remove to see it. If you suspect an ignitor problem but it doesn’t appear dirty, it may need to be replaced. Ignitors go bad occasionally, and having a spare on hand at all times makes sense.

How To Clean a Furnace Ignitor

If you’ve got a dirty or discolored ignitor, here’s how to clean it.

Tools and materials to clean a furnace ignitor

• Headlamp;
• Socket wrench set;
• Multi-tip screwdriver;
• Air compressor with spray nozzle attachment or cans of compressed air;
• Medium-fine scuff pads;
• Vacuum cleaner;

Turn off power and access the ignitor

• Find your furnace’s main power switch and turn it off. You don’t want to furnace firing up while you’re working on it.
• Use a wrench or screwdriver to open the access panel.
• Switch on your headlamp and locate the hot surface ignitor near the burners.

For a hot surface ignitor or direct spark ignitor

• Disconnect the push-on wire connector powering the ignitor.
• Undo any bolts or screws holding the ignitor in place, then remove the ignitor. Be sure not to touch the ignitor element (for hot surface ignitors) or the spark wires (for direct spark ignitors), since skin oil can cause them to malfunction. Hold it only by the base.
• Gently rub the metal surface of the ignitor (the element for hot surface ignitors or wires for direct spark ignitors) with a scuff pad on all sides until it’s shiny everywhere.
• Vacuum off all dust.
• Replace the ignitor, reconnect the wires and replace the panel.

For a standing pilot ignitor or intermittent pilot ignitor

• Locate the pilot orifice, the place where the gas comes out that ignites the pilot flame. Examine for carbon buildup or debris.
• Use an air compressor with a spray nozzle or a can of compressed air with a plastic straw to blow and dislodge the unwanted material.
• Move the end of the spray nozzle or air can straw as close to the open end of the pilot orifice as possible before blowing. If there’s any buildup, it will almost certainly be inside the orifice. That’s where you need to direct the air.
• Spray gently, not more than a second or two. Compressors have enough air pressure to potentially damage internal parts, so a light touch works best.
• If you have an intermittent pilot system, use your compressed air to dislodge any buildup on the spark ignitor wire.

Best Overall Smart Thermostat

Google Nest Learning Thermostat

Nest was one of the first smart thermostats to hit the market, and the brand continues to be one of the most reliable when it comes to WiFi-connected temperature control. The 3rd Generation Google Nest thermostat learns your habits and schedule (like turning the temperature down before you go to bed) and begins to automatically change its settings to best fit your family’s needs.

You can use either Google Assistant or Alexa for voice control. It also sends an alert if something doesn’t seem right (like a sudden drop in temperature), along with helpful reminders to make maintenance easier.

Pros

• Learns your schedule and programs itself
• Compatible with 95% of heating and cooling systems
• Easy installation

Cons

• Small screen might be difficult for some to operate
• Additional room sensors sold separately

Shop Now

Floor Lamps

Floor lamps are typically tall, their base sits on the floor and they plug into an outlet. They’re great for tucking behind furniture, into corners or other tight spaces because of their slim silhouette, and they can throw light in multiple directions.

Floor lamps that point upwards can bounce light off the ceiling. This uplight lamp has a small task-type light lower down on the column. Some floor lamps throw light in all directions or impart a cozy glow. Other floor lamps throw light in multiple or more directed pathways, making them ideal for a living room without a ceiling light.

Best Overall Infrared Space Heater

Dr Infrared Portable Space Heater

If you’re looking for infrared space heaters that are easy to use and convenient to move from room to room, the Dr Infrared Portable Space Heater fits the bill. A large LCD screen on the front of the unit clearly shows the current temperature, and the convenient remote control allows you to adjust the settings from across the room. The four rolling casters also make it easy to roll, so it’s a cinch to warm up any cold room.

Pros

• Straightforward controls
• Made of real wood
• 12-hour timer

Cons

• Retro look might clash with your home decor

Shop Now

Bad Bulbs

Bulbs burn out, especially with light strands you’ve had for a few years.  One bad bulb can cause part or the entire strand of lights to stop working. That’s true of incandescent and LED lights.

If it’s just half the strand that’s out, often times the bad bulb is the first one that’s dark. If the entire strand is out, you’ll have to go through and check each bulb.

The easiest and fastest way to solve the latter problem is finding the trouble spot with a light tester. If you can’t get your hands on one, you’ll have to go through the strand and check each bulb. Light testers are relatively inexpensive, and they’re worth having because of the potential time saved.

Once you’ve found the bad bulb, just replace it. Check the light strand again and you should be on your way.

Layers of Light

Use multiple sources of light to make a dark and windowless basement more inviting. In this space by @amykalikowdesign wall sconces, recessed lights and one large ceiling fixture all work together to bring layers of light to the room.

“I wanted something interesting that gave off great light,” Kalikow says. “This oversized flush mount was the perfect fit for the space — modern, timeless and fun.”

Fortunately, you can. Swapping out old incandescent bulbs for energy efficient ones is one of the easiest options to preserve the beauty of your fixtures. We asked two experts how to do it safely.

Energy Efficient Light Bulb Compatibility

Are all old light fixtures compatible with newer bulbs? Yes, says John Williamson, a licensed master electrician with Williamson Consulting Services. “The medium or standard base has been around since Edison’s days,” he says. “Older-style incandescent light bulbs can readily be replaced with modern LED light bulbs.”

Veronica Rose, a master electrician and president and CEO of Aurora Electric, agrees, with one caveat.

“Many [fixtures] will let you transition to LED seamlessly, [but] it is only LED compatible if the LED lamp has the same base to screw into the old fixture,” she says. “Otherwise, you will need to hire an electrician. The sales representative at your local hardware store will know which ones work on old fixtures.”

Most fixtures feature this standard base, so swapping bulbs should be easy. But as Rose points out, it’s always wise to double check.

Light Fixture Safety

Our next question focused more on safety. Is it dangerous to simply replace old-style bulbs with newer ones without checking the electrical?

“Replacing incandescent or CFL [compact fluorescent lamp] light bulbs with modern LED light bulbs is a good thing,” Williamson says. “Modern LED light bulbs do not generate the kind of heat that came from incandescent light bulbs.

“Even CFL light bulbs generated heat, but not as much as incandescent light bulbs. Heat is a major problem because it breaks down the insulation on wiring, especially in ceilings.”

Williamson adds it’s essential to check the condition of the existing wiring when installing new fixtures, especially if they have medium bases and could still accept an incandescent bulb.

“It’s too common for people to ignore the warnings and install incandescent light bulbs that exceed the rating of the light fixture,” he says. “If the label says one 60-watt bulb maximum, it’s dangerous to install a 75-watt or 100-watt bulb.”

Ultimately, Rose says, safety comes down to wattage. “As long as the new lamps and bulbs are the same base and not of a greater wattage, you will be safe,” she says. “Avoid using larger wattage, as that becomes very dangerous.”

Best Way to Achieve Efficient Light Fixtures

Our final question: What’s the safest way to upgrade old light fixtures so they’re more eco-friendly while retaining their character?

That depends. If you’re looking for something you can easily do yourself, Williamson suggests replacing old incandescent or CFL light bulbs with modern LED bulbs.

If you’re looking to replace the whole fixture, or your electrical needs some work, Rose recommends leaving that to the pros. “The safest way is to hire a reputable licensed and insured electrician to do the work,” she says. “First, contact your local electric provider, as many have free programs for their clients with the easiest upgrades to lighting in your home.”

The ecologically minded will appreciate knowing the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) considers pellet stoves the cleanest of all solid fuel residential heating appliances. The fuel is mostly derived from recycled wood, and it produces few air pollutants.

Other factors, like the ability to control their heat output, and the fact that a mid-size model can easily heat a decently-sized home make pellet stoves home-heating champs. One thing to note, though, is that you’ll need a lot of pellets to keep your home warm throughout the winter.

What Is a Pellet Stove?

Pellet stoves aren’t the same as pellet grills used for cooking; these are specifically for heating.

As the name implies, a pellet stove produces heat by burning pellets, i.e. solid combustible tablets from 1/4- to 1-1/2-in. long. The most common pellets are made from compressed sawdust and other wood waste, but some are derived from biofuels like nutshells and corn kernels.

Not all models burn every kind of pellet. If you want to burn biofuels, you’ll need a model specifically for that.

Most pellet stoves are rectangular boxes with a centrally located combustion chamber and a fan that circulates hot air into the room. The housing includes a hopper for loading pellets and a vent to exhaust combustion gases. Most units are self-lighting and include a thermostat. All the user has to do is load the pellets, set the temperature, sit back and enjoy the heat.

Depending on its size, a pellet stove can produce 8,000 to 90,000 British thermal units (BTUs) of heat per hour. Roughly 40,000 and 60,000 BTUs per hour are needed to heat a 2,000-square-foot home. The stove doesn’t need to be plugged in, and the power to operate the fan and pellet feeder amounts to about 100 kilowatt-hours (kWh) per month. That costs about $9 at the current national rate for electricity, according to the EPA.

How Does a Pellet Stove Work?

Most pellet stoves feature a screw feed system. Pellets stored in the hopper travel to the combustion chamber via a large threaded shaft. The turning speed of the shaft determines the heat output, which can all be controlled by the thermostat. This system ensures the continuous feed of pellets into the combustion chamber to feed the flame.

Except for the pellet inlet, the combustion chamber is sealed and often comes with a glass cover that lets you see the flame. The sides of the chamber function like heat exchangers, transferring heat to the blower chamber, where it circulates through grilles in the front of the housing and into the room.

Burn efficiency ranges from 70 to 83 percent, so few combustion by-products remain.

Does a Pellet Stove Need a Chimney?

No. Pellet stoves can be direct-vented through a wall like a gas stove. If you’re installing a pellet stove in an existing fireplace, vent it through the chimney if that’s more convenient.

Pellet Stove Pros and Cons

Pros

A pellet stove costs from $900 to $6,000. That’s not exactly cheap, but there’s a model for most budgets. One ton of wood pellets (equivalent to fifty 40-pound bags) costs about $250 and lasts a little less than two months. That’s economical for a heating fuel.

• Controlled heat: The thermostat controls the speed of the feeder, which in turn controls the size of the flame and the heat output.
• Eco-friendly: A pellet stove burns environmentally-friendly fuel efficiently, releasing few pollutants. Pellets are made from recycled wood or abundant natural materials.
• Safe and easy to use: Once you add pellets and set the thermostat, a pellet stove operates autonomously. It needs no more attention until it runs out of pellets. Combustion is efficient, so creosote doesn’t build up and rarely (if ever) needs to be removed. And because the combustion chamber is sealed, there’s no danger from sparks or flames.
• Can be placed anywhere: You can install a pellet stove anywhere close to an exterior wall for the vent, even in an apartment.

Cons

Pellet stoves do have some significant drawbacks.

• Can be noisy: This is less likely to be a problem with a top-quality model than with a less expensive one.
• Pellets are heavy and need to be kept dry: A pellet stove typically goes through a 40-pound bag of pellets per day, and loading the pellets can be difficult for the elderly or disabled. You also need a cool, dry place to store the pellets, and pellet availability can sometimes be limited.
• Uses electricity: Add electric usage to the monthly operating cost.
• Plastic bags: If you don’t buy pellets in bulk, you’ll throw out approximately one plastic bag a day.

How to Install a Pellet Stove

Start by setting it on a fireproof hearth you can buy or make yourself, following the manufacturer’s recommendations and local fire codes. Then install the vent. This can be a short length of duct extending straight through a pre-cut hole in the wall, or an assembly that extends vertically to a more suitable exit location. The vent terminates with a cap attached to the siding.

After vent installation is complete, plug in the unit, load pellets and enjoy the heat.