But what about hardwood floors?

“Hardwood floors can be a beautiful and durable addition to any space,” says Andrii Gurskyi, founder of the New York City maid service HomeClean. “But they can also be a breeding ground for bacteria and viruses.”

Here, Gurskyi shares his tips for disinfecting hardwood floors, gleaned from years of experience as a cleaning company owner.

Note: These tips are for finished wood floors. Never use any water or liquid cleaner on unsealed wood floors. Sealants protect wood by resisting water intrusion, and unfinished wood floors lack this layer of defense.

What’s the Difference Between Cleaning and Disinfecting Hardwood Floors?

According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), cleaning means physically removing dirt and germs from surfaces. To do that, we scrub them with soap (or a cleaner) and water, then rinse to remove the residue.

For hardwood floors, add one last step: drying the wood surface well. Water left to pool on wood leads to warping and mold growth, particularly if it seeps into the spaces between the boards.

Disinfecting means killing or inactivating germs, not just removing them. Disinfectants feature chemicals like bleach or alcohol that disrupt the bacteria or virus, usually by destroying their cell wall or metabolic processes.

The CDC says to always clean before disinfecting. That way you remove most of the problem organisms and dirt first, so the disinfectant can work on the microorganisms left behind.

Note: There’s also sanitizing and sterilizing.

Sanitizing is the level of microbe removal between cleaning and disinfecting. Sanitizers aren’t as strong as disinfectants, but can be a worthwhile alternative to harsh chemicals if you’re looking to reduce germs. Sterilizing means to eradicate all forms of microscopic life. That’s typically done in specific circumstances, like in healthcare facilities and commercial food canning operations.

Should Hardwood Floors Be Disinfected?

It depends.

Cleaning does a good job of removing dirt and germs, according to hardwood floor experts. But when there’s an illness outbreak, or you want to target areas where kids and pets track in dirt and germs, disinfecting your hardwood floor can be a good idea. Gurskyi says it’s crucial to disinfect properly, though, because harsh chemicals and water can damage wood.

How To Disinfect Hardwood Floors

“Look for disinfectants that are specifically designed for hardwood floors, or those that are labeled safe for use on wood,” Gurskyi says. “Avoid using harsh chemicals that can damage the finish of the floor or leave streaks.”

Read the label carefully, and always test a small area to be sure the disinfectant won’t harm your floor.

Tools and materials for disinfecting hardwood floors

• Wood-safe disinfectant like Lysol Clean & Fresh Multi-Surface Cleaner;
• Bucket;
• Mop with wringing action;
• Microfiber cloth (optional).

Sweep the floor

“Before you begin disinfecting your hardwood floors,” Gurskyi says, “you need to make sure they are free of any dirt or debris.” Use a broom or vacuum to remove any loose dirt, dust and hair. Don’t forget to reach into all the corners and under furniture.

Dilute the disinfectant

“Most disinfectants come in concentrated form,” Gurskyi says, “which means you’ll need to dilute them before use.” Add the product to the bucket and dilute as recommended on the label.

Don’t go overboard. You won’t kill germs any better if you use more than indicated, so follow the instructions to the letter. Using too much could leave a residue on the surface of the wood — or worse, damage the finish.

Apply the disinfectant

Apply the solution to the floor with a mop for a large area, or a microfiber cloth for a small one. Wring out the mop or cloth well between passes to avoid pooling. After you’ve tested a small area, cover the entire surface of the floor with the disinfectant.

Pro tip: Clorox Disinfecting Wipes are safe for wood floors, Gurskyi says. They can be used to quickly disinfect high-traffic areas without doing the entire floor.

Allow to sit, then rinse

Disinfectants need time to work, so it’s important to allow the disinfectant to sit on the floor for the full time recommended on the product label. Then rinse the floor with clean water from a well-wrung mop or cloth.

Dry the floor

Almost done.

“Finally, use a clean, dry cloth or mop to dry the floor,” Gurskyi says. “Avoid leaving any excess moisture on the surface, as this can cause the wood to warp or cup.”

Now that your hardwood floors are clean and disinfected, keep them that way! Sweep your hardwood floors regularly, and remove shoes at the door to avoid tracking in dirt and germs.

Unfortunately, painting quickly leaves walls and furniture susceptible to nicks and scratches. Luckily, touch-up paint pens save the day–and my peeling paint. One of the most popular options on the market, the Slobproof Paint Pen, is available on Amazon. This means I easily got my paws on it to test for the general population.

Best of all? Since I’m not an expert painter, my thoughts and recommendations are applicable to the average person. If I like this paint pen and think it’s simple to use, it probably is. Let’s get into it, shall we?

What is the Slobproof Touch-Up Paint Pen? 

The Slobproof Touch-Up Paint Pen is a pen-like receptacle for touching up dings and scratches around your home. The upper part of the pen is made of see-through plastic, which is where your desired paint is inserted using the included syringe. On the bottom, you’ll find a small tip where the paint comes out, which is similar to that of a paint brush. To disperse paint, twist the upper part of the pen.

Besides being able to easily touch-up paint on places like walls and ceilings, the Slobproof can also be used for general arts and crafts. Need to entertain your nephew for an hour? Hand him one of these (and a piece of blank paper). If you’re lucky, you may have a masterpiece to hang on the fridge.

Slobproof Touch-Up Paint Pen Features

Although Slobproof Touch-Up Paint Pens aren’t exactly feature-rich, like the latest smart home devices, these pens still have a lot going for them. For starters, you’re able to refill these. Yes, contrary to the belief of some reviewers, you can clean, dry and reuse each of these pens. To do so, simply turn the end piece until it pops out. You’ll also need to pull the brush out of the pen (and wash it) in order to prevent unwanted color mixing.

The pens come with a plastic cap, which is designed to fit easily over the brush. This is useful for those who want to keep their paint fresh for easy touch-ups. And since the brand claims the paint stays fresh for up to seven years when properly used, you can store these with your other painting supplies.

How We Tested It 

As someone who can’t bring items up the stairs without dinging them on the wall, I had countless opportunities to use the Slobproof Touch-Up Paint Pens. A headboard, chair rail, wall and even my ceiling were subject to my intense scrutiny and subsequent painting. In fact, I walked around my home for weeks with my eyes peeled for opportunities to use this handy painting tool. Truth be told, using this pen was so easy that I wanted to do each nook and cranny in my home, leaving no stone unpainted (er, unturned).

My excitement aside, here are the main pros and cons to be aware of prior to purchasing these touch-up pens:

Pros 

• Reasonably priced
• Keeps paint fresh for up to seven years
• Available in a two- or five-pack
• Simple to use
• Works with latex- and water-based paints
• Useable on a variety of surfaces
• Refillable

Cons 

• Small brush tip may not work for larger dings

FAQ 

How do I fill the touch-up paint pens with paint?

Luckily, you won’t have to have the talent of a circus Houdini to fill the pen. Simply use the included syringe to dispense your desired paint into the plastic end. (Remember to hang onto any leftover paint you used to paint your home for when touch-ups are needed!)

How long will my paint stay fresh inside the pen?

According to Slobproof, paint stays fresh inside of the pen for up to seven years. However, I cannot personally speak to that, as I’ve only used the pens for a few months.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say 

Still not sold on touch-up paint pens? You don’t have to take my word for it. Check out what other verified purchasers from Amazon really think.

“Highly recommend these touch-up pens,” writes five-star reviewer, Sarah Lynn. “Easy to use. I’ve been using them in my new construction home for around eight months now on the drywall and trim. With dogs and young children, these are a must-have to fix little spots. Love these pens.”

Amazon reviewer, Samantha W., writes, “I am IN LOVE with this product. It made touching up my house so easy before I listed it for sale. It was super easy to use and the paint blended seamlessly, it looks like there was absolutely never anything stuck into my walls. Love it, definitely a gem.”

“These are the coolest little things,” explains purchaser, L. Grimes. “The paint stays ‘fresh’ and the brush doesn’t dry out in between uses. This is literally the perfect paint pen for everyday touch-ups and scratches. You get two in a package, so you can fill them with two different paint colors to have on hand for the higher traffic rooms of the house.”

Final Verdict 

Whether you own or rent your home, the Slobproof Touch-Up Paint Pens are a staple I recommend. Keep them alongside your primer, roller and paint brushes. They’re about to become your handy best friend.

Where to Buy Slobproof Touch-Up Paint Pens

Budget-conscious individuals: It’s our time to shine. The Slobproof Touch-Up Paint Pens won’t leave a gaping hole in your pocket as many retailers sell them for around $20. Pick up a two pack from Amazon to fix your own paint dings and scrapes today.

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As you might have guessed, we’re big fans of DIY projects to upgrade your home that can be done before lunch on a weekend day. Whether you’re improving the landscaping around your front step or adding a coat of a paint to the front door, these projects are the true spirit of DIY. Best of all, they’re things even a novice can tackle.

Surprise guests are a mixed bag at best. It’s nice to have company, but if only there was a little more time to ready your space for visitors. If you do find yourself in this situation, take some inspiration from the folks at Saturday Morning Builds, who recommend a few easy DIY projects that are sure to impress your guests — even the in-laws!

Here are some more easy, practical things you can do to give your house a little pop before company arrives.

One of the easiest, most cost-effective improvements you can make is giving your front door a new coat of paint. Done correctly, it adds real pop to the front of your home. There’s no way your incoming guests will miss your house. A fresh coat of paint on the front door also boosts the curb appeal if you’re looking to sell your home.

Painting a front door is an easy weekend project, and you’ll be finished before lunch. You can even paint it without removing it from the hinges, saving even more time.

These solar-powered house numbers are another cool idea that can really set your home apart from everyone else on the block. It’s another way to help guests to find your house more easily, and it’s an easy Saturday morning project, too.

Need inspiration for more outstanding weekend projects? Be sure to check out Saturday Morning Projects, streaming now on At Home with Family Handyman.

Where to Watch Saturday Morning Builds

Saturday Morning Projects is part of  At Home with Family Handyman, streaming now on XUMO, The Roku Channel, LG Channels, Plex, fuboTV and Sling Free. At Home is also available through the Family Handyman app on iOS, Apple TV, Android, AndroidTV, FireTV and Roku devices.

What Are Fluted Wall Panels?

Basically, fluted wall panels are a wall covering made up of a series of pieces of wood, hung either vertically or horizontally. The wood can be natural, composite, or synthetic, but its key feature is its “fluting,” or the concave carving of the wood. It can make up an entire wall, or just a segment, making it a space-conscious, tasteful alternative to traditional wood paneling.

What Are the Benefits of Fluted Wall Panels?

Beyond its aesthetic appeal, flute wood paneling has many benefits:

• Eco-friendliness: Because fluted wood paneling rarely covers an entire space and can be made of composite, it is typically a greener option for your house than traditional paneling.
• Low maintenance: Fluted wood paneling can be easily wiped down with a cloth and installation is a snap. (Yes, you should be cleaning your walls, too!)
• Immune to pests: If made of synthetic or composite, fluted wood panels can’t be harmed by termites like traditional wood.
• Water- and mold-resistant: Much like with pests, water does not pose a threat to synthetic materials. And with no water, there’s no mold, meaning that this design choice can easily be incorporated into humid spaces like kitchens or bathrooms.
• Ages gracefully: Fluted wood panels are durable, meaning that they’ll last for years to come without needing to be replaced.

How Can I Add Fluted Wall Panels to my House?

There are numerous different ways to incorporate the gorgeous fluted wood paneling trend into your home. Find three of our favorites below.

Frame Your Television

One of the most intuitive ways to add fluted wood paneling is as an alternative media center. Where one might opt for a classic cabinet to support a standing television, hanging TVs look dramatic against a fluted backdrop.

Emphasize Your Favorite Furniture

Whether you adore your upscale bed or want to bring out the color of your couch, fluted wood paneling can help draw the eye to a special space. A textured wall can act as a pseudo-headboard in the master bedroom. In the living room, horizontal fluted wood panels lend an air of luxury, like an upscale hotel!

Add an Accent Wall

Finally, keep it simple with a classic accent wall. Instead of testing out new paint, lean into natural materials and organic textures. We particularly love how they add warmth to a bathroom, especially when paired with soft, amber lighting.

Where Can I Buy Fluted Wall Panels?

Check out Chroma Living for a wide selection of colors and materials. Whether you opt for rich mahogany or airy beech, your space will shine with its new elegant makeover.

You probably sweep, but are you apprehensive about going further? Can you actually mop wood floors?

There’s also the question of whether your wood floors are actually made of wood, or if they’re really good imposters. Engineered wood, with a hardwood veneer over sturdy plywood, and solid hardwood have different cleaning requirements than laminate and vinyl flooring. The latter products often mimic the look of wood so well it’s hard to tell.

We asked two professional cleaners with decades of experience what they reach for when cleaning hardwood or engineered wood floors.

Can You Mop Wood Floors?

“Yes, you can absolutely mop hardwood floors,” says Dan Deonarain, owner of Galaxy Maids, a residential and commercial cleaning company that services the New York City and Boston areas. However, it should not be your default option for everyday dust and dirt. That honor goes to your broom and vacuum cleaner.

Johnny Pallares, owner of De La Rosa House Cleaning in Phoenix, Arizona, also recommends mopping wood floors, but don’t haul out the bucket and hot water just yet. Mopping wood floors isn’t the same as mopping tile or laminate flooring. Heavy-duty cleaners that break up grease in your kitchen might not be suitable for your wood floors, so use caution.

Consult the flooring manufacturer for mopping recommendations. “They’ll provide very specific care instructions and products, along with the frequency of use,” Deonarain says.

Mopping Hardwood Floors: Pro Tips

Both experts say you should use as little water as possible. Pallares says water tends to pool on hardwood floors, leading to water stains and other damage. “Water, over time, can get into the wood and cause warping,” Deonarain says. You could be looking at mold growth, too.

Also, beware of products that promise a heavy shine. “[T]hey tend to look great right after cleaning, but can cloud up after you start walking on the floor,” Deonarain says. And avoid overly aggressive cleaners, particularly anything acidic. “These will permanently damage your floor, and make it more susceptible to water damage,” Deonarain says.

Now you know what not to use. But what should you use?

Pallares suggests Bona Hardwood Floor Cleaner, which comes ready to use and doesn’t leave any residue, so there’s no rinsing. Just spray it on and rub into the wood. Bona also makes a spray-mop applicator for wood floors.

Pallares loves Murphy’s Oil Soap concentrate, too. “Murphy’s Oil Soap Wood Cleaner is great for floors, and helps condition the wood,” he says.

How Often Should You Mop Wood Floors?

Depending on traffic, Deonarain says mop kitchens and entryways weekly, and living rooms and dining rooms every other week. Bedrooms and home offices probably only need once a month, he says. This assumes you’re sweeping and vacuuming regularly, so keep up with those tasks in between mopping.

Pallares prefers mopping all hardwood floors — with an appropriate cleaner only — once a week. Whatever schedule you choose, make it your own by tailoring to your individual traffic and grime levels.

How To Care for Wood Floors Between Mopping

Once you’ve got your hardwood or engineered wood floor mopped and looking great, keep it that way!

Besides sweeping and vacuuming regularly, Deonarain shares these tips to protect your wood floor and maintain that just-mopped look:

• Place rugs in entryways and under furniture to reduce wear and tear.
• Use cushioned pads or furniture leg covers to prevent scuff marks.
• Disguise scratches with a liquid concealer.
• Polish occasionally with wood polish to restore your floor’s shine.

Pro tip: Before applying polishes, waxes and concealers, test a small, inconspicuous area to verify the color match and any adverse effects.

Glass Mosaic Backsplashes

This is the “top of the list” no-no for interior designer and TikTok user Phoenix Grey (@phoenixgrey). In one particular video, he rails glass mosaic backsplashes for being “too busy” aesthetically and explains that “the extra amount of grout means that they’re grimier and much harder to clean.” Yikes!

When it comes to buying the perfect curtains for your home, you’ll have plenty of options in color, style, material and price. As great as curtains are, they pose a challenge for perfectionists. Perfectly spacing panel curtains can feel like an impossible task, made especially challenging since the curtain bar is not exactly at eye level. Sure, you could use the broom handle or find the yardstick to help, but we have some easier ways to solve the issue of how to space curtains.

How to Space Your Curtains with Toilet Paper Rolls

@littlepettittpad ✌️ Curtain Spacing Hack have you tried this 🙌 #homehacks #homestylinghacks #curtainshack #homedecorideasuk #homedecortrends #homedecortrends2023 ♬ Cool Kids (our sped up version) – Echosmith

TikTok user @littlepettittpad shared an easy and nearly free hack about how to space curtains with toilet paper rolls. Here’s how to replicate the hack at home.

• Remove the curtain rod and curtains
• Alternate sliding one curtain grommet onto the curtain rod followed by one toilet paper roll. Be sure the toilet paper roll is placed on the back side of the curtain that’ll face the window.
• Repeat on the other side
• Rehang the curtain rod

It’s as simple as that. Best of all, toilet paper rolls are something every household has around.

Other Ways to Space Your Curtains

If you’re not in the mood to wait for enough toilet paper rolls to accumulate before attempting this method, here are some alternatives for how to space curtains.

Use Plastic Pipe

Instead of using toilet paper rolls, you can achieve the same effect by using plastic or PVC piping. Your local hardware store can likely cut it into your desired size—just be sure to choose piping wide enough that it’ll slide onto the curtain rod. Using plastic pipes could even last longer than toilet paper rolls since they’re more durable. Although, you’ll have to invest in some piping rather than reusing something already at home unless you happen to have some lying around.

Use Other Household Cardboard Rolls

In addition to toilet paper, a few other household items come with cardboard rolls in the core. Saving all of them can be a quicker method instead of using just toilet paper rolls. Wrapping paper rolls, lint rollers and paper towel rolls could easily be used instead of or in addition to toilet paper rolls. Just be sure to cut each of them to equal lengths to get evenly spaced curtains.

Use a Foam Pool Noodle or Foam Pipe Covers

A pool noodle or foam pipe cover could also do the trick of getting evenly spaced grommets. For this method, you’ll want to use a pool noodle with a hollow center or head to your local hardware store for some foam pipe covers. Cut the foam to your desired width and slide it between the curtain grommets just like you would if you were using toilet paper rolls.

Wine Storage

If you have a wet bar in the basement or one on the way, consider building wine storage into your staircase. It’s a beautiful project and frees up space in your bar  — or, depending on the size of your collection, maybe even an entire room.

Start with the casework

Build this wine rack as you would a fixed shelving unit, using 3∕4-in. plywood for the ­casework and shelves. Assemble and install only the casework; it will be much lighter to handle. Trim to match your style and apply the finish.

Make the racks

It’s easiest to attach the dividers before installing the shelves. With a 2-1/2-in.-wide piece of scrap wood to space the dividers evenly, use a brad nailer to attach them to the shelves. Install the shelves with pocket hole screws.

Trim it out

Trim the wine rack with a style that matches your space. Frame it with a wide base trim to create a bold look. For jobs such as this, I like to use chair rail for a unique look.

Home Office Space

With more people working from home, the need has increased for a space to serve as “the office.” Unfortunately, this is often the kitchen table, the couch, a spare bedroom or, worse yet, our actual bedrooms.

Let’s be done with that! Convert unused space under a staircase to a small but functional home office, complete with a work surface, filing cabinets, shelves and a task light.

Install a work surface

Design the space around an existing desk, or design a desk to fit the existing space. A work surface is easy to make with particleboard and plastic laminate. Anchor it to the studs so it will be strong enough to stand on!

Add cabinets and shelves

Add filing cabinets and shelves to outfit your new work-at-home digs. Store-bought filing cabinets with two drawers are typically 30 inches tall. Make sure they will fit under your work surface.

Consider adding electrical

Computers, printers and task lights all need power. An extension cord will do the trick, but it can be unsightly. Consider adding electrical outlets along the inside wall. You might be able to draw from an existing receptacle in an adjoining room.

Day Bed Reading Nook

This nook with a daybed is a perfect hideaway for alone time with a glass of wine and your favorite book. It can also double as a guest bed for kids’ sleepovers. It’s like adding an entirely new room without nearly as much work.

Add shelves

You know that teetering stack of books on your nightstand? You can move a few down here if you add shelves to the side wall. Build them into the stud wall and finish them with drywall for a clean look. A small nook on the back wall is perfect for a cup of coffee or tea.

Storage for more than books

Besides space for books along the front of the bed, the area underneath the mattress can also be used for blankets and pillows.

Pet Lounge

What better way to show some love for our pets than to make a space just for them! A dog just wants a bed of its own, and cats want to reinforce their superiority by sitting higher than anyone else in the room. This plan suits both!

A doghouse

Simply cut a door into the wall, or frame out an entire under-stair hideaway for your buddy. Add a dog pillow for creature comfort, plus bowls for food and water. Then your pup will have a room to call its very own.

Add a cat perch

This cat perch is easy. Make a 14-1/2-in. square box to fit between the studs, cut away the drywall and screw it in. Trim it to match the style of your room. Your feline will love running up the carpeted, L-shaped steps to its perch. Position the steps over the studs for ­maximum strength.

Simple Shelving

This easy upgrade to an under-stair space adds function and style. Recessed shelves don’t require structural changes to the wall or staircase. Trim each shelf or just paint them to blend into the drywall as shown.

Simple box construction

The recessed shelf detail is easy to make. Just assemble open-faced boxes to fit within the stud cavity using 1/2-in. plywood or medium density fiberboard (MDF). Mark the stud locations and cut the openings in the drywall. Install the boxes flush to the drywall and apply trim.

Pro tip: Whether you’re painting or staining, finish the shelf boxes before installing them.

Add adjustable shelves

Increase storage and functionality with adjustable shelves. This can be done before installation or later as your needs grow.

Use a shelf pin jig to drill the shelf pin holes accurately on both sides of the box. Cut the shelves 1/4-in. narrower than the internal dimensions and finish the shelves to match the shelf box.

Meet The Expert

Jay Cork used to live under the stairs in his parents’ house, which might explain a lot.

Best Overall Tile Floor Cleaner

Bissell SpinWave Cordless Hard Floor Spin Mop

The Bissell SpinWave has two rotating mop heads that do the hard scrubbing and cleaning on tiled surfaces, so you don’t have to. This cordless mop has a battery run time of about 20 minutes, so it really is ideal for quick cleans and daily spills. If you have more cleaning to do or need to clean multiple rooms, you’ll probably need to stop for a charge in between.

The SpinWave comes with cleaning solution, as well as two soft pads and two scrub pads that are machine washable, which makes them reusable. The spray button allows you to control how much cleaning solution goes onto your floors, and swivel steering lets you maneuver in around tough spots, like around the toilet and underneath a kitchen island.

While it is on the expensive side, this electric mop is more powerful than the standard dry mop. Plus, this device doesn’t use steam, so it’s safe for hardwood floors, too!

Pros

• Features two rotating mop heads
• Includes four reusable pads
• Comes with cleaning solution
• Safe on hardwood floors

Cons

• Battery life on the shorter side

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Best Heavy-Duty Zippered Attic Door Insulation Cover

The Energy Wise Attic Door Insulation Cover has an insulation value of R-15.5, the highest for zippered insulators (although not by much). A popular and highly reviewed item on Amazon, this product features a reflective foil covering and a fail-safe zipper for easy access.

One Amazon reviewer praised the design, writing: “Having two zippers that meet rather than one that goes from one full side to the other is also super convenient.”

But we have some great news: with the help of this handy hack, you can quickly elevate your living space by adding an extra dose of coziness. Yes, we’re talking about placing candles in the fireplace. Here’s how—and why— you should give it a go in your home.

You can also elevate your room by investing in some fireplace decor ideas.

How to Prep Your Fireplace for Candles

@mydiyhappyhome_ Fireplace GLOW UP 🕯 We’ve never used our gas log fireplace- for safety reasons with our kiddos, but have always wanted it to feel cozy. It took me about an hour of time and I love it!!! I removed the gas logs (saving for later), left the grate in place to protect the gas line, cut a of thick piece of cardboard to fit in the grate, sprayed it black and added battery operated candles. Now we can have a warm, cozy glow- year round. No hot flames to worry with… and we can always swap it back later on down the road if we want to! 😉 You can create spaces in your home that love! I will link up the candles I used on my LTK page- link in my profile. https://liketk.it/3TB5k #fireplace #fireplacemakeover #diyhomedecor #diymom #momlife #cozyhome #candlelight ♬ Made to Shine – Shelly Fairchild & Silverberg

Before putting candles in the fireplace, you need to prep the area. As seen in this video by TikToker @mydiyhappyhome, start your fireplace facelift by removing anything already in it, such as gas logs. (Another foolproof way to give your fireplace a facelift? By adding fireplace tiles.) Of course, be cautious and make sure nothing is hot before you touch it. Because this creator has a gas line in the fireplace, she left the grates. That brings us to our next must-know before placing candles in the fireplace: if you also have a gas line, only use faux candles.

Next, use a vacuum to clean up any excess debris, which tidies up the area and makes it more visually pleasing. You can also a piece of black-painted cardboard and put it on top of the grate so the candles can sit. Once you’ve completed these steps, you’re ready for assembly.

How to Set Up Your Candles in the Fireplace

Now that you’ve prepped your space, it’s time to start arranging your candles in the fireplace. Before you begin, ask yourself a few questions. Do you prefer taper candles or the look of pillar ones? Would you like candles of varied heights or all the same? Do colored candles appeal to you, or do you want to keep them classic with a neutral hue? Do you have a gas line? If so, you’ll have to stick with faux candles. And if you go with fake candles, will you get a remote-control set to illuminate your space easily?

Once you’ve answered these questions and made your purchase, you’re officially ready to begin putting your candles in the fireplace.

With Candlesticks

If you love the elegant, whimsical look of taper candles, you can use candlesticks to arrange your candles in the fireplace. Check out how TikTok user @danniellajoy sets hers to create an intimate, cozy vibe in her home. Of course, you can opt for plain taper candles, but we love how this creator added a fun twist with the ones she selected. To get the look, our editors recommend these flameless wax candles that mimic the real deal.

@danniellajoy Candlesticks in your fireplace is such a vibe 🕯🤍✨ #fireplacediy #fireplacedecor #bohohomedecor #bohohome #candledecor #sanfancisco ♬ freaking out the neighborhood by mac demarcoシ – offline

With Candles of Varied Sizes and Heights

As seen in the first video, using candles of varied heights creates visual interest and makes the entire arrangement more appealing. Plus, it adds a feeling of coziness and warmth like no other, as you can use candles of different sizes to fill in the gaps. Try these flickering LED candles that come in an assortment of sizes.

With Colorful Candles

You can select colorful candles if you want to add color to your space. Whether you prefer taper or pillar candles, you can certainly find them in many lively colors, so don’t be afraid to get creative to make an arrangement that feels like a reflection of your home’s unique style. Check out how TikToker @hollyauna did it for some inspiration.

@hollyauna This seriously brings me so much joy 🕯#fireplace #candles #dollartree #halloween #harrypotter ♬ Double Trouble – John Towner Williams

Not interested in setting up candles? Check out these other ideas for a non-functional fireplace.

Make vinegar solution

• Add one part vinegar to 10 parts warm water in a spray bottle.
  • For a 32-oz. bottle, add about three ounces (or a little more than 1/3-cup of vinegar) and fill with water.
• Label the spray bottle so you can safely identify the mixture later.

What Is Peel-and-Stick Trim?

This trim hack for your walls isn’t costly wood trim—instead, it’s a self-stick, flexible trim made from vinyl, plastic or foam that is comparatively inexpensive. The easily installed option is trending for 2023 because it gives homeowners a painless way to customize their space to their tastes. If you’re interested in trying the trend, here’s the scoop on how to use this decor hack to your advantage.

@decorsnippets Click ➕ #walldecor #wallmoulding #moulding #peelandstick #peelandsticktile ♬ original sound – A

Where Can I Use Peel-and-Stick Trim?

One of the great things about peel-and-stick trim is that you can use it in so many ways. With the right self-stick trim, you can create chair or picture rails on your wall with minimal effort. You can also use peel-and-stick trim to upgrade your room from floor to ceiling by making decorative baseboards or different types of crown molding. Because the trim is available in plenty of styles, your options are endless.

However, you’ll need to choose the type of trim that’s right for you. Consider reviews on different trim types, including plastic and foam offerings, before purchasing. If you plan to paint your trim, for instance, some varieties are pre-primed for just that purpose. Some trims come precut, and others don’t. There are simple, elegant self-stick trims or ornate options for those who want to create a high-end, sophisticated ambiance.

You can find trim inspiration from these interior window trim ideas and modern crown molding ideas, or take a look at these interior wall trim ideas that include a simple box trim achievable with self-stick foam.

How Do You Install Peel-and-Stick Trim?

Peel-and-stick trim is a simple DIY project because you don’t need extra tools unless you plan to paint your trim. Once you know the design you’d like to create, peel the backing off your trim and stick it on the wall. It’s that easy! If you make a mistake with placement, that’s OK. The adhesive trim is removable, and you can adjust your design as needed.

If you are hoping to avoid trim options that could damage your wall paint, you may want to look for trim that specifies it’s easily peeled off or renter-friendly. You should also be aware that your adhesive trim isn’t necessarily permanent and may come off after some time. Before you install it, look for a wall space that isn’t in a room that gets too steamy or humid, like a bathroom, to avoid the trim falling off the adhesive due to moisture.

With all this in mind, if you’re looking for a fun, no-fuss upgrade to enhance the design of your space, peel-and-stick trim is a budget-friendly way to do so. Happy decorating!

• Measure the sides of all windows and doors where you plan to install trim. Add up these figures, then add 10 percent.
• Decide if you want hardwood or softwood trim. Both can look great. Hardwood is tougher but more expensive. Softwood is more susceptible to dents and scratches but cheaper. For my window trim, I went with cherry, a hardwood.
• Purchase enough eight-foot lengths (or longer, if needed) of 1×6 lumber of your chosen species to make up the total length figure you calculated, including the extra 10 percent.

Tools and Technique

To clean your concrete basement floor, you’ll need:

• Personal protective gear (PPE);
• Broom;
• Scrub brush;
• Bucket;
• Mop or squeegee;
• Cleaner of choice;
• Hot water;
• Room fans.

Before starting, gather your PPE. That means gloves, eye protection, closed-toe shoes, long-sleeved shirt and pants. Consider wearing a dust mask while sweeping, and open basement egress windows if possible. Have your fans handy for drying and ventilation.

Then, unless you’re just spot-cleaning, resist the urge to clean around things on the floor. Get everything up and out of the way. If you don’t, the floor will look different underneath your stuff, and you’ll damage your boxes, sports equipment and holiday decorations with water and cleaners.

• Sweep the entire floor to remove dirt, dust, cobwebs and random debris, but avoid disturbing active mold colonies.
• Add hot water to your bucket, and cleaner according to the manufacturer’s directions.
• Test a small area before proceeding with the entire floor.
• Start scrubbing from the farthest corner, working your way to the floor drain. Work in sections so the floor doesn’t dry before you can get back to rinse it.
• Rinse well with a fresh bucket of water and a mop, or squeegee. Direct the rinse water into the drain.
• Dry the floor completely before re-stacking your boxes and other things. If not, you’ll trap moisture, leading to mold problems.

This magical mopping tool works on all hard floor surfaces, like tile, laminate and hardwood. It can be used to clean glass shower doors and tall windows, too.

What is the Floor Police Mop?

If a cordless floor map married a robot vacuum, the Floor Police Mop would be their child. This electric mop comes with three types of pads to handle different cleaning jobs. The microfiber pad loosens, lifts and traps dirt; the scrubber pad handles sticky messes and cleans grout; and the polishing pad shines surfaces.

The Floor Police Mop’s pads are self-propelled, turning at a rate of 100 rotations per minute. That speed makes it efficient at cleaning messes, saving you a lot of time and effort. Additionally, the mopping pads are machine washable, so you can use them as often as you want.

This cordless mop runs on a rechargeable lithium-ion battery. Each full charge gives you 90 minutes of cleaning time. Considering how quickly it cleans messes, that’s likely plenty of time to get your floors glistening.

How to Use the Floor Police Mop?

After unboxing the Floor Police Mop, you’ll want to let it fully charge. To remove it from the charger, attach the pads best suited for the cleaning job you’re about to tackle, spray them with floor cleaner and then press the power button.

All you have to do is push the mop over the spots you want to clean and let the self-propelled pads do all the hard work for you. Turn the power off when you’re finished cleaning, throw the pads in the washing machine and enjoy your squeaky-clean floors.

Have any tall windows that need shining? Attach the polishing pads, spray on your window cleaner and lift the mop to where you need it—it only weighs three pounds.

The Best Floor Police Mop Reviews

We’re not the only ones who can’t get enough of the Floor Police Mop. Verified purchaser Linda Addis says it allows her to clean her own floors at the age of 74. She writes, “This makes it easy for me to wash my floors even from my wheelchair!”

Five-star reviewer M. Wright says, “Service and administrative workers with tired hands and wrists should consider how much more likely and often you’ll mop your floors without having to wrestle with mop heads and buckets.”

Verified purchaser Donna Kennedy Adams says she could write volumes about how happy this “wonder mop” makes her. “I’m a former VP & Trainer for a commercial janitorial company. I really ran the Floor Police thru its paces. Preformed as advertised.”

Where to Buy the Floor Police Mop

No, you don’t have to dial 9-1-1 to reach the Floor Police Mop. Simply log onto Amazon and add it to your cart. You may want to pick up an extra set of cleaning pads, too.

Shop Now

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The Magnet Hack

We came across this useful stud-finding hack on TikTok. All you need is a powerful magnet, some masking tape or paper, and a level (or a weighted piece of string). Wrap the magnet in tape or paper so it won’t leave marks on your wall, then hold it against the wall in the approximate area where you need to find a stud. Slowly slide it up and down and back and forth across the wall. The idea is to find a drywall screw, which will cause the magnet to stick in place on the wall. Drywall screws are always driven into studs, so you know when your magnet sticks to the wall that there’s a stud beneath it. Use a level (or weighted string) to “reveal” the rest of the stud extending vertically above and below your magnet.

@mrfixitdiy How to find a wall stud with a magnet! #househack #learnontiktok #tiktokpartner ♬ AUTOMATIC – Theo Vermaak

Before You Start

Adding an egress window is a big job, and it’s important to plan your project to meet the building requirements in your location. Here are the steps I took before starting to excavate:

Apply for a permit

This process could take a few weeks. My city required detailed plans of the well, the dimensions of the window and rough opening, the size of the header and a drawing of the property, including the house.

Engineered drawing

The retaining walls that made up our well were tall enough to require an engineer’s approval. I sent my plans to a local engineer who gave me a new drawing with a stamp of approval to include with my permit ­application. If you buy a manufactured well, this step is likely unnecessary, but your city’s building department makes the final call.

Call the digging hotline

When you’re digging, even just a few inches, call to have underground utilities located and marked.

Digging is dangerous if you don’t know where the utilities are. If you skip this step and hit a gas, water, or power line underground, you’ll risk the lives of yourself and others, and you’ll be on the hook for the costly repairs. So be sure to call 811 before your project. The process varies by state, so call a few days ahead of your project.

Requirements for Egress Windows

Here are the minimum requirements identified by the building code: 

• The opening needs to be 5.7 square feet.
• The minimum width is 20 inches.
• The minimum height is 24 inches. 
• The well needs to provide a clear space of 3-ft. x 3-ft. when the window is open.
• From the inside, the sill height cannot exceed 44 inches

Dig the Window Well

Following my plans, I drew the window well location with marking paint. I rented a mini excavator to make the ­digging much easier. It was well worth the $450 to avoid hand ­digging.

Have a plan for the dirt you’re removing; it will be more than you anticipate. We took the nearly 10 cubic yards of dirt to a nearby compost site.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/how-much-to-insulate-attic/ Fri, 27 Jan 2023 16:59:30 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=508132 Icicles hanging from your gutters during a snowy winter can be scary. If you’re having this problem, the reason might seem counterintuitive: You probably don’t have enough attic insulation.

As we learned in science, warm air rises. Insulating the attic floor traps most of that heated air in our living spaces. Otherwise, it wafts into the attic, warming the roof and melting the snow, which then drips down to the roof edge to form icicles.

So how much is that insulation going to cost? The national average is around $2,500. But if your attic already has some insulation, you’ll pay a lot less — perhaps as little as $500. On the other hand, if you have a large attic and need to remove existing insulation that’s wet and moldy, you could pay $4,000 or more.

One caveat: Some houses built before the 1980s have asbestos insulation in the attic, and the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends leaving that undisturbed. If it must be removed, the EPA says you should hire a licensed asbestos abatement contractor. Some state or county health authorities may require it. Depending on attic size and other variables, the total bill with asbestos removal ranges from $2,500 to $8,000.

Signs You Need Attic Insulation

The best way to determine if you need attic insulation is to go up there and look around. Don’t worry about the underside of the roof. Check the floor. The existing insulation should rise to the tops of the floor joists. If it doesn’t, or you see significant clumping or signs of mold, you need to re-insulate.

Here are some more signs you need more attic insulation:

• A higher-than-expected energy bill in winter: This indicates you’re losing heat through the attic. You might also feel drafts coming through the ceiling.
• Uneven heating between rooms:  This indicates an uneven distribution of attic insulation.
• Insects in the ceiling: They’re probably there because the attic is humid, and possibly wet, due to inadequate insulation.

Cost of Attic Insulation Factors

If you call an insulation contractor, they’ll evaluate several factors before giving you a quote. The main one, of course, is the size of the attic. Insulation materials vary in price from less than $1 to $7 per square foot.

Other factors include:

• Insulation material: Fiberglass and cellulose loose-fill insulation tend to be the least expensive options, with structural insulation panels the most expensive.
• Recommended R-value: A measure of thermal resistance, this varies by climate. You can find recommendations for your area on this chart published by Energy Star. To achieve a higher R-value, you usually need more insulation.
• Labor: Installation costs vary from region to region and from contractor to contractor. At a minimum, expect to pay $1.50 per square foot, but it can be as high as $3.50 per square foot in some places.
• Removal of existing insulation: If your current insulation is clumped or moldy, it’s no good and will have to be removed. This will cost an extra $1 to $2 per square foot, assuming no asbestos.

Types of Attic Insulation

The most common types come as batts, rolls or loose-fill material that can be blown in or manually deposited between the floor joists. Your choices:

• Fiberglass: About $1 per square foot, possibly less.
• Cellulose: About $1 per square foot, possibly less.
• Mineral wool: $2 to $3 per square foot.

All three are relatively lightweight. If you’re only insulating the attic floor, any of these materials will work. If you have moisture problems in the attic, go with mineral wool because it’s waterproof.

Homeowners seeking to insulate the entire attic, including the underside of the roof deck and the walls, can use batts or rolls ($1 to $3 per square foot). But they may find structural insulating panels ($4 to $7 per square foot), which are rigid sheets of styrofoam sandwiched between sheets of reflective foil, easier to install.

Spray foam ($3 to $5 per square foot)  is also a good choice but must be professionally installed.

DIY vs. Hiring a Pro

Labor for installing insulation in a 1,000-square-foot attic runs from $1,500 to $3,500. That’s a lot of money you could save by DIYing the job. And in most cases, that’s a realistic proposition.

You don’t need any special skills to cut batt insulation and lay it between the attic floor joists. If you opt for loose fill, it doesn’t cost much to rent a blower for a day or two. Structural panels are also relatively easy to cut and install.

But don’t try to DIY spray foam; there’s too much potential for making a mess with the ultra-sticky material. The price of spray foam usually includes installation.

You should also consider hiring a pro to remove old insulation. Carting it away is a hassle you probably don’t need. And if it contains asbestos, it could be dangerous and illegal to do it yourself.

Built-In DIY Firewood Storage Shelves

This gorgeous fireplace wall by @acarriedaffairdesigns integrates the firewood with the design as a decorative feature. She combined IKEA bookshelves and raw materials to create an entire wall of built-in storage.

Narrow open shelves flank the fireplace, keeping the firewood accessible. The cut wood contrasts nicely with the dark green paint (Backwoods by Benjamin Moore.)

It is possible, though, to significantly reduce the noise entering your home, although it could be an expensive project.

I used to work in a recording studio. During construction, workers packed the walls with dense material and uncoupled the drywall with resilient channel. As a final touch, they lined the walls with acoustic panels to prevent reverberation. It all cost several thousand dollars. Sure, it was quiet. But even with the door closed, we could still hear a vacuum in the next room.

A whole house is harder to soundproof than a single room. The quality of the doors, windows and siding material, any gaps in the walls and ceiling, and the ambient outdoor noise levels all enter into the equation. In some cases, it might make more sense to soundproof individual rooms instead of the entire house, so people can at least get a good night’s sleep.

How Does Sound Enter a House?

Sound travels from a source to our ears as a series of vibrations in the surrounding air. These pass freely through gaps between the doors and windows and the walls of a house. They also pass through solid materials by making them vibrate. Once inside the house, the vibrations reflect off hard, flat surfaces like walls, floors and ceilings.

“Amplitude” and “frequency” are the two characteristics of sound waves that most affect their transmission through materials like siding and drywall.

Amplitude is basically a measure of intensity. The greater it is, the louder the noise — and the more it can be heard indoors.

Frequency measures the number of vibrations per second. The higher the frequency, the higher the pitch. Building materials tend to vibrate in resonance with high-amplitude, low-pitch sounds like the bass from your neighbor’s boom box. They tend to pass more readily through the walls than low-amplitude, high-pitch sounds like birds chirping or people talking.

The noisiest areas of your home tend to be:

• Close to gaps: Mostly around doors and windows. Single-pane windows and hollow-core doors also effectively transmit sound.
• Near thin walls: Walls with thin siding, like vinyl or aluminum, tend to be noisier than those with heavier siding. This is true even if the walls are well-insulated because insulation doesn’t absorb much sound.
• Around ducts and vent pipes that extend through the wall or ceiling: Sound travels inside ducts and pipes. It can also be transmitted along the walls.

Does Soundproofing Work?

Yes. But it won’t make your house 100 percent quiet, and you wouldn’t want that anyway. The world’s quietest room is an anechoic chamber at Orfield Laboratories in Minnesota, and the longest anyone managed to stay inside it is 45 minutes.

There are three basic soundproofing strategies. You can use them individually or in combination.

• Increase mass: Dense materials don’t vibrate as readily as lightweight ones. You can increase the wall density with an extra layer of drywall or mass-loaded vinyl under the drywall.
• Dampen vibrations: If you can stop walls from vibrating, sounds won’t pass through them as easily. Common methods include decoupling the interior drywall from the studs with resilient channel or flexible acoustical caulk. If you’re building your home, you can also decouple the outside wall from the inside one by increasing the width by an inch or so and installing sets of alternating studs that don’t touch both walls.
• Absorb vibrations: Lining the walls with fabric or acoustic panels prevents sound from bouncing back and forth inside the room. Upholstered furniture also absorbs sound and can be strategically placed to make a room quieter.

Home Soundproofing

Soundproofing an existing room is a little more challenging than soundproofing during construction, but you can get great results if you don’t mind removing some existing drywall.

Once the wall studs are exposed, hang a layer of mass-loaded vinyl. Then install resilient channel or apply acoustic caulk along the stud faces to decouple the drywall. You can also install beefy, sound-absorbing mineral wool insulation, which will also keep your house warmer.

If removing the existing drywall isn’t in the cards, you can also add mass by installing an extra layer of drywall over the old one.

Before hanging the new drywall, coat the back with beads of acoustic caulk spaced about six inches apart to decouple the layers. If your budget allows, replace all single-pane windows with double-pane ones and all hollow-core doors with solid-core ones. Seal the inside and outside trim around doors and windows with caulk.

Non-invasive soundproofing solutions for renters include hanging acoustic panels on the walls, putting heavy carpets on the floors and hanging heavy drapes in the windows. Get your landlord to cover gaps in old doors — usually a significant source of noise — with weatherstripping or easy-to-install soundproofing seals.

The only thing I could think of involves lutefisk, a fish Scandinavians love if prepared properly, or hate if it’s not. Lutefisk is dried lingcod reconstituted with a lye solution, traditionally wood ashes mixed in water.

Turns out there are a lot more uses for fireplace ash. Sharon Wilczek owner of Paul’s Fireplace Wood, Inc., in Little Falls, Minnesota, shared the following ingenious suggestions. I plan to try at least 10!

In the Garden

“I use a lot of ashes in my garden,” says Wilczek. “Ashes have nutrients like potassium, magnesium and calcium and are good for blueberries and azaleas, for example.

“Sprinkle ash from your fireplace in your gardens in fall and winter, and then in spring you work the ash into the soil. It doesn’t cost you anything because you’re just using ash from your fireplace instead of throwing it away.”

NOTE: Do not use ashes from manufactured logs or charcoal. They often contain petroleum waxes or other potentially harmful ingredients.

In Compost Piles

Ashes layered into your compost increases the potassium in your mulch.

Around Young Tomato Plants

“If you put a ring of fireplace ash around young tomato plants, it keeps cutworms away,” says Wilczek. “The cutworms won’t go through the ash. I learned this from my grandmother, and she planted 75 tomato plants every year!”

Prevent Blossom End Rot

Blossom end rot occurs when the tissue of the end of the fruit opposite the stem breaks down. It’s a common garden problem caused by a calcium imbalance within the plant. It can occur in pepper, squash, cucumber, melon and tomato plants.

Spread around a small amount of ash and scratch it into the soil. Do not over apply because that can make the soil pH too high.

As a Bug Repellant

“Ash is good for keeping away snails and bugs like ants,” says Wilczek. “I use ash to keep slugs away from my hostas. These critters don’t like crossing the ash.”

Ashes are also a tick repellant. Spread ash on your bare skin before starting an outdoor hike. You’ll look dirty, but it’s better than picking up a tick that spreads Lyme disease or Rocky Mountain spotted fever. And it’s better than spending money on a smelly insect repellant.

For Cleaning

“I’ve used ashes for cleaning fireplace doors,” Wilczek says. “You make a paste by mixing ash with water. Use only the fine ash and rub the paste on the glass doors. It makes for a mild abrasive and will clean off the burned residue.

“You can use this paste on tarnished metal or on jars that have a sticky residue from a label. But make sure you wear gloves when you work with this paste.”

To Control Pond Algae

The potassium in wood ash can fortify rooted aquatic plants, making them compete with and slow algae growth in a pond.

To Absorb Odors

Wood ash absorbs moisture and odors from the air. Put a small bowl of it in your refrigerator or a musty room.

To Remove Driveway Oil Stains

Spread ash on the oil. Let it absorb the oil for several hours before sweeping away the ash-oil mix.

As an Ice Melt

The potassium in fireplace ash melts ice in mild winter temperatures. Also, the ashes provide traction on icy roads or walkways. “You just want to be careful not to track any of that ash from your shoes or boots into your house,” Wilczek says.

To Make Soap

“You can make homemade soap with ash,” Wilczek says. “This soap is really good for washing clothes and making them white.”

To Remove Skunk Stink

If your pet crosses paths with a skunk, rub odor-eating ashes into its fur to remove the stink.

As an Alternative to Bleach

Make lye water by mixing ashes and water. Lye water can be used as a natural bleach.

To Put Out Fires

Wood ashes can help put out a fire when a fire extinguisher, soil or sand is unavailable.

As a Natural Toilet Cleaner

Bleach-based toilet cleaners kill the natural bacteria that keep a rural septic system working properly. Wood ash cleans toilets as well as tile and other bathroom fixtures, and promotes waste breakdown in the septic tank. It also prevents smell in outhouses and camp toilets.

“My daughter asked that I help her get rid of her fireplace ash,” says Wilczek. “I said, ‘Just put it on your garden.’ She had no idea to do that, and that is the problem.

“People put ashes in their trash because they don’t know what else to do with them. You can use them and recycle them. It’s the natural way. People need to be educated on this, on using something they already have if they burn wood. And there’s no extra cost to it.”

Waterproof Egress Window Cover

To make this, start by cutting a pair of matching triangles from pressure-treated 2×8 lumber. The bases of the triangles should extend from the house to at least the outer perimeter of the window well, but they can be slightly longer.

Fasten the triangles together with pressure-treated 2x4s to make a frame that sits on top of the well wall or the ground beyond it. Attach a rectangular piece of plywood or plexiglass to the top of the frame with hinges, then screw the frame to the siding. You now have an openable cover that will keep out rain and pests.

Indoor Atrium

Cheer up your basement with an indoor atrium at the base of the stairs. This idea from @rzinteriors_ is simple but impactful, creating an unexpected feature in a space that’s usually wasted.

If your basement receives natural light, you can install low-maintenance live plants like zz plant or pothos. If your thumb is more black than green, display several faux plants for the same effect.

Now I don’t feel so great, and it’s because of my grate. I’ve learned a grate is second-rate compared with a classy set of andirons.

“If you had a big, beautiful fireplace, it would be a shame to use a grate in it,” says Leroy Hite, CEO and founder of Cutting Edge Firewood in Peachtree Corners, Georgia. “A big, beautiful fireplace is just begging to have andirons. They look so beautiful, whereas a grate does not. With a grate, the fireplace is not meeting its potential.”

The last thing we want is an underperforming fireplace. Read on as we fan the flames of andiron envy and explain why you should choose andirons over grates.

What Are Fireplace Andirons?

Andirons are typically L-shaped metal bracket supports, normally found in pairs, that secure logs in an open fireplace. The upright arm of decorative andirons may feature balls, finials, pheasants, harps or similar items. Grates are metal grill-like baskets that hold burning logs.

“Grates are more traditional than useful,” says Hite. “In the past, the English cut down almost all of their trees and used them for fuel. They therefore used charcoal or coal instead of wood in their fireplaces. Grates hold charcoal better than andirons, and so we inherited grates from the English.”

Hite says andirons create more heat because they increase airflow around the logs.

“People are familiar with grates and andirons, but they are not familiar with the name andiron,” he says. “Everybody has seen andirons in Westerns or old English movies with castles and such, but 95 percent of the time when I say `andirons,’ people have a confused look on their face. When I show them a picture, they say, ‘Oh, yeah, I know what those are.’ ”

How Do Andirons Differ From Fireplace Grates?

• Andiron metal is typically thicker than grate metal, which over time sags due to prolonged exposure to heat. That’s why andirons last much longer than grates. “I’ve had set of andirons for about a decade and they are essentially in perfect condition,” says Hite. “You can buy antique andirons in the U.S. that are 150 years old and Europe that are 1,000 years old. I burn a lot of hot fires, but before I realized how much better andirons are, I would usually go through a grate every winter.”
• Andirons are easier to clean because you can sweep ashes around them more easily than grates, which often must be removed to reach the ash.
• “Andirons are generally decorative in addition to holding the firewood,” says Hite. “Nobody thinks a grate is pretty, but andirons look attractive year round.”

Why Use Fire Grates or Andirons at All?

Grates and andirons allow airflow from beneath the fire. That makes a fire easier to start and burn more robustly with less smoldering. Plus, grates and andirons keep the logs in the fireplace. Hite says that grates and andirons function the same way, but andirons do it better.

Considerations When Buying Fireplace Andirons

• Appearance: “A grate will melt if you burn enough fires, and that’s when you should replace it with andirons,” says Hite. “There is no other reason to replace your grate with andirons. The one exception is some people care about aesthetics or how it looks so much that they will throw out the grate and buy andirons.”
• The thickness of metal: Andirons should be steel or caste iron at least 1/2-inch thick. The thicker they are, the longer they last.
• New or used: New andirons are easy to find online or in fireplace stores, costing $150 and up. Used andirons are cheaper ($50 and up); just make sure they aren’t rusted out. Antiques can be pricey but are a great conversation piece. These from Antwerp Belgium, circa 1870, run $2,600.
• Size: Andirons vary in size, so “make sure the andirons fit your fireplace,” says Hite.

Best Andirons

You can get new, simple bent-metal andirons for less than $80. But why not make a statement with yours? These lookers aren’t antiques (special category) and fall into two price ranges:

• Around $160: Chambliss Leaf Andirons feature a simple yet attractive design topped by maple leaves.
• Around $300: Wrought Iron Andiron Set With Ball Finish offers a traditional twisted-rope design with ball finials and center legs for additional support and durability.

Considerations When Buying Fireplace Grates

• The thickness of metal: Like Andirons, the thicker they are, the longer they last.
• New or used: “You definitely want to get one that is new, nothing used,” says Hite.
• Size: Measure before you buy so the grate fits your fireplace.

Best Grates

These attractive grates come in two price categories:

• Around $160: The 22-inch Stronghold Zero Clearance Lifetime Fireplace Grill features 3/4-in. bars build to last.
• Around $250: Black Lifetime 36-inch Fireplace Grate — Extra Heavy-Duty comes, as the name suggests, with a lifetime guarantee.

Our house was constructed in two parts, each with a peaked roof sloping toward a flat area between them. As you might expect, that was a pretty bad design. Leaves collected there and got soaked by rain, eventually rotting the roof decking. Things got so bad the drywall in the kitchen eventually collapsed from all the moisture.

Rebuilding that section of the roof with its own peak solved the problem. The roofer was a friend who charged “family rates” for his time, but the final bill still exceeded $20,000. With California pummeled by a seemingly unending wave of rain and wind, I’m glad we did it.

If you own a house long enough, you’ll face the prospect of roof repairs at some point. The need for an entire roof replacement is less common. A roof can last from 25 to 100 years, depending on how well it’s built, the construction materials and fierceness of weather conditions. When it’s time for a complete tear-off and replacement, here’s what to expect.

National Average Roof Replacement Cost

Many factors go into replacing a roof, which makes quoting an average difficult. It’s a fair bet you’ll pay less than we did for our new section of roof. The job typically entails tearing off and hauling away the covering, making spot repairs to the decking, then installing a new covering with underlayment and flashing.

If you own a really large house with a complex roof, you could pay as much as $22,000 for a roof replacement. In most cases, the cost is lot lower. The national average runs $8,000 and $11,000, and some people may spend as little as $5,000.

Factors That Determine the Cost of Roof Replacement

When a roofer comes to your house to assess the job and provide an estimate, the following factors figure into the quote:

• Size of the roof: Roofers generally measure the area of a roof in squares, each equalling 100 square feet. Typical labor rates range from $150 to $300 per square, the same as $1.50 to $3.00 per square foot.
• Roofing material: Asphalt shingles, composite and metal roofing are generally the most affordable options. Tiles, slate or cedar shingles cost more.
• Condition of the roof: If it’s rotting or sagging because from age or frequent ice dams, the infrastructure may need repairs, which hikes the cost.
• Working conditions: It’s more challenging to work on a really steep roof. That slows the job and increases the labor charge.
• Roof complexity: A complex roof with many peaks, valleys and obstructions like vents and dormers requires more flashing. The job takes longer and costs more than a simple roof.

Questions To Ask Roofing Contractors

Depending on where you live, a roofer generally needs a roofing or general contractor’s license. Ask about proper licensing first. Here are some other questions to ask:

• What type of insurance do you have? There are three possibilities. General liability covers damage to your home. Worker’s compensation covers injuries to workers. A surety bond covers you in case the job isn’t completed properly or on time. Most licensed contractors carry the first two but bonding is optional in some places, so it’s good to ask.
• How long have you been in business, and can you provide references? An experienced contractor with a solid reputation is more likely to do a good job, without the need for callbacks, than one just starting out.
• When can you start, and how long will the project take? Roofers tend to be busy in spring and summer, so you may be put on a waiting list. Once the job starts, the roofer should provide a timeline for completion.
• Do you do gutters, and is that extra? Not all roofers install gutters, so you may need to line up a contractor for that. Some roofers charge extra for gutters. If so, get a quote for that, too.
• What type of warranty do you provide? Workmanship warranties can run from five to 25 years. Certified agents for certain materials manufacturers may offer a lifetime warranty, underwritten by the manufacturer, that includes materials and workmanship.

DIY vs. Hiring Pros

While it’s possible to DIY a roof replacement, you shouldn’t. Here’s why:

• It’s dangerous work.
• You can damage certain types of roofing materials by walking on them or handling them improperly.
• Installing and sealing flashing on complex roofs requires skill, and the roof will leak if you don’t do it right.
• You’ll need a truck to haul the old roofing away.
• Some manufacturer warranties expressly call for professional installation.

If you’re an experienced builder, you may have the knowledge and skill for the job. But you’ll also need equipment to lift materials onto the roof, dispose of the old roofing and protect yourself from falls. Save your DIY skills for less demanding and hazardous tasks.

Roof Replacement vs. Roof Repair

A full-on roof replacement, aka a tear-off, is a drastic measure. It isn’t necessary to repair a few blown-off shingles or one or more minor leaks. It’s even possible in certain circumstances to install a new roof covering directly over the old one, known as re-roofing.

If you’re deciding between re-roofing and roof replacement, know that replacement adds value to the property. If you plan to sell in the near future, you can recover 60% of the cost of a roof replacement, which makes it a better investment.

When she did use her fireplace — which wasn’t often — she had to huddle close to it because the burning logs created an updraft that made the rest of the house colder. Open fireplaces suck cold air through every available gap in doors and windows. This fact wasn’t fully appreciated by 20th-century builders, who also didn’t understand the environmental impact of all that smoke spewing into the atmosphere.

Times have changed, though. Thanks to advancements in other home heating methods, wood-burning fireplaces are on the decline and, in many cases, highly regulated. Marin County now has some of the most stringent fireplace restrictions in the country. It’s now illegal for my friend to use hers.

What Harm Does a Wood-Burning Fireplace Cause?

According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), a wood fire emits combustion gases like benzene, formaldehyde, acrolein and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH). These sound dangerous, and they are. They can cause burning eyes and runny noses and exacerbate respiratory and heart ailments.

The particulate matter in wood smoke, a form of pollution in its own right, adds to the ill effects, which can include an increased risk of obesity and diabetes.

Beyond the pollution concerns, fireplaces are potential fire hazards. That soothing crackling sound comes from small gas explosions inside the logs that can spew burning embers into the room.

Fireplaces are the second leading cause of fire damage from home heating appliances, according to the National Fire Protection Association. Those embers can also fly from chimneys lacking spark arrestors and potentially start wildfires.

Where Are Wood-Burning Fireplaces Illegal?

Wood is still a major source of heating fuel in much of the United States, but some communities have adopted measures to control its pollution.

Marin County in California and Tacoma-Pierce County in Washington have the strictest measures, prohibiting fireplaces or wood stoves that aren’t EPA-certified. To achieve this, the appliance must emit no more than 2.0 or 2.5 grams of particulate matter per hour through the chimney, depending on the testing protocol.

Building authorities in the San Francisco Bay Area, New York City and the Denver metro forbid the construction of new fireplaces, although Denver will allow them with an EPA Phase II wood-burning insert. In the Bay Area, the prohibition extends also to wood stoves, and wood burning is prohibited on Spare the Air days of high air pollution. Violators can draw $100 to $500 in fines.

Other communities prohibit the sale or installation of non-certified fireplaces and wood stoves. States with such restrictions include Washington, Oregon and Colorado. Communities include Summit County, Colorado; Fairbanks, Alaska; and San Joaquin Valley and the Town of Mammoth Lakes, California

In Oregon, Marin County and Fairbanks, you must remove a non-certified wood stove before you can sell your home.

Can a Wood-Burning Fireplace Be Modified to Make It Legal?

If your home has an old open fireplace or one lacking an EPA-certified insert, there’s no way to convert it and make it legal. Certification happens in the factory and the appliance bears a verifying label. It may be legal to install an EPA Phase II wood-burning fireplace insert in an old fireplace, but local health and fire authorities have the final word.

Some open fireplaces and fireplace inserts are EPA qualified because manufacturers tested them in a voluntary program under the American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM). This isn’t the same as EPA certification because the standard is not as strict. EPA-qualified wood-burning appliances can’t be used where EPA certification is required.

Wood-Burning Fireplace Alternatives

If your current fireplace is now illegal, you could install a gas or electric fireplace insert. A gas log insert can closely resemble a wood fire and emits few atmospheric pollutants, but you’ll need to run a new gas pipe. An electric stove emits no pollutants at all and requires only an appropriate electrical circuit nearby.

Alcohol gel fuel presents a third alternative. Instead of burning wood, you simply set a can of gel in the appropriate place and light it. Most cans will burn for about three hours. Gel fuel doesn’t provide much heat, but it can provide some of the ambiance you’re looking for.