What Is Peecycling?

The term peecycling comes from a combination of peeing and recycling. Peecycling is actually a real thing that’s happening, spearheaded by the Rich Earth Institute in Brattleboro, Vermont. As part of the institute’s Urine Nutrient Reclamation Program, people can donate their pee. The Rich Earth Institute distributes 2.5- and five-gallon plastic jugs with odor-blocking funnel attachments. According to the institute, the setup “can be used as a urinal or an easy-to-pour-into container,” by using the nun’s cap or yogurt container and then pouring the contents into the funnel. They even distribute a “decorative cloth cozy” that fits over the jug for privacy. They also rent urine-collecting portable toilets for public events.

How Does Urine Work As Fertilizer?

Human urine is a rich source of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. According to the Rich Earth Institute, one adult produces about 125 gallons of urine per year. That’s enough fertilizer to grow 320 pounds of wheat.

The world faces a fertilizer shortage due to the war in Ukraine, and a critical need to find alternative sources of fertilizer. According to Rabobank, 20% of the world’s nitrogen fertilizer is exported by Russia—and along with Belarus, 40% of the world’s potassium.

Does Peecycling Help the Environment?

Beyond helping farmers to grow more food, peecycling is good for the environment. When flushed into wastewater systems, contaminants in fertilizers create environmentally damaging algal blooms. According to the Rich Earth Institute, a household can save about 4,000 gallons of potable water annually by not flushing.

LG Appliances and Home8

LG had a large presence at the 2023 International Builders’ Show (IBS 2023), showing off a wide collection of new home appliances. It introduced a new residential system connecting all these appliances that LG calls “Home8.”

Basically, it’s an energy storage system that allows homes to create energy reserves and pull from them during times of peak electricity costs. This system works with existing infrastructure to provide homeowners with efficient, clean and reliable energy.

Space heaters direct warmth right at the user, making them a viable option to boost a chilly room or substandard heating system. But as Christmas 2022’s “bomb cyclone” proved, a space heater can only do so much. We moved inside.

Do you have a space heater? Do you know how much it costs to run? Read on to find out your heater’s impact on your bottom line.

How Many Watts Does a Space Heater Use?

Electric space heaters for home use are usually rated for 1,500 watts at max power. That’s according to Ace Hardware, in partnership with Lasko, maker of home comfort products. (Putting your heater on a low setting will use less energy.)

How Much Electricity Does a Space Heater Use?

A 1,500-watt electric space heater draws 12.5 amps of electricity at 120 volts. (Watts = amps x voltage.) But what does that mean for your electric bill?

The utility doesn’t charge you for electricity in amps. It charges you for power consumed, and that’s measured in kilowatt-hours (kWh).

To figure out how many kilowatt-hours a space heater uses, and therefore how much it costs to run it, take the space heater rating in watts and multiply it by how many hours per day you use it. Then divide that number by 1,000 to convert to kWh.

Let’s say you have a home office in your garage like I do, and you use your 1,500-watt space heater eight hours per day. So 1,500 watts x 8 hours per day / 1000 = 12 kWh. As of November 2022, the average cost of electricity in the U.S. was $0.163 per kilowatt-hour. So 12kWh x $0.163 = $1.96 per day.

Bottom line: Your 1,500-watt space heater running eight hours per day will cost you about two dollars per day to operate, depending on your electricity rate.

Do Space Heaters Use a Lot of Electricity?

It depends on how you look at it.

Heat producers like dryers, space heaters and furnaces generally use more energy than electronic devices like computers. Because we know how to calculate the energy costs of your space heater, let’s compare those numbers to other appliances and devices in your home.

Television

Check the back of your TV to see how many watts it typically uses. Mine is 73 watts, about average for its size. You guessed it! A 73-watt television consumes much less power than a 1,500-watt space heater.

Running four hours a day, a 73-watt TV costs about a nickel per day to operate, or a little more than $17 per year. And that doesn’t include vampire energy. In comparison, a 1,500-watt space heater running four hours a day costs nearly $1 per day, or about $88 for three months of daily winter usage.

Laptop computer

Laptops draw power through their charger and use the battery when not plugged in. A laptop’s energy use varies depending on what it’s doing. Checking email will use significantly less energy than running a game.

A 96-watt laptop charging two hours a day costs about three cents daily, or $11.42 per year.

Vacuum cleaner

A vacuum cleaner uses 1,000 to 1,440 watts, although models vary (mine is only 840W). To find your specific energy usage, look at the label on your vacuum. Multiply the amps times the voltage to get the power consumed (in watts), then use the formula.

A 1,000-watt vacuum cleaner used one hour per week consumes one kWh of energy. At the average rate of $0.163 per kWh, the vacuum cleaner costs about $8.50 per year to run.

Clothes dryer

The average family does 300 loads of laundry per year. That’s about $245 per year for a 5,000-watt clothes dryer, making it one of the biggest energy users in your home. A 1,500-watt space heater running for the same 300 hours would cost $73.35 at the average electricity rate cited above.

What Is a Rain Chain?

It’s a plain or decorative chain that channels rain from a roof down to the ground and away from the foundation of the home, or into a rain barrel. It slows the water as it falls, reducing erosion and soil loss.

Rain chains originated in Japan, where they are called kusari-doi. Many rain chains incorporate small cups, bells and other devices which enhance the sound the water makes as it runs down the chain.

I know some gardeners who made their rain chains work on sunny days by adding a hidden pump and water line. These cycle water from a reservoir at the bottom of the chain back up to the rooftop, then down the chain again.

Types of Rain Chains

Rain chains vary from simple styles to highly decorated works of art.

Simple chains are made of aluminum or another material that will stand up to weather events. Decorative chains are made of a variety of materials.

Rain Chain Considerations

When deciding where to install a rain chain, consider the following:

• If installing the rain chain as a decoration, place it where you can see and hear it from inside your house.
• Always secure the bottom of the rain chain so it doesn’t sway wildly in strong winds.
• Make sure water at the bottom of the chain flows away from the foundation, as it would if you had a traditional downspout and extender.
• If you have traditional gutters, install the chain at the end of the gutter where the water naturally flows.
• If there are no gutters, put it where the rain naturally collects and flows off the roof, like a corner.

How To Install a Rain Chain

Once you’ve determined where you want your rain chain, follow these steps.

• Remove the downspout if you’re replacing it with a rain chain.
• Hang the rain chain in the downspout opening. You can purchase adaptors to make this easier.
• Secure the bottom of the rain chain to the ground or the rain barrel. Use a stake to securely attach a chain to the ground. With a rain barrel, placing the chain through an opening in the top of the barrel should make it secure enough.
• Test your rain chain by filling your gutter with water from a hose. When water hits the ground, it should flow away from the foundation. Placing large rocks at the base of the chain can help slow the water and prevent erosion.

Best Rain Chain Options

You can make a basic one out of an aluminum chain, cut to length so it hangs down from the edge of the roof. If you decide to do this, choose a chain made for outdoor use and heavy enough to slow the water.

If you’re looking for something more decorative, there are dozens of options at many prices. Choose from styles ranging from decorative black to copper. This copper hammered cup style from Monarch Rain Chains should last for years.

But the festive decorations come at a cost, and many holiday enthusiasts may be dreading their January electric bill. Read on to learn, on average, how much you can expect to pay for running your Christmas lights.

How Much Electricity Is Used for Christmas?

In a stunning 2008 study from the United States Energy Information Administration (EIA), seasonal light displays were discovered to account for 6.6 billion kilowatt hours (kWh) of electricity consumption each year. To put that in perspective, that is over 1 billion kWh more than the entire country of El Salvador uses in a year, or enough to power approximately 14 million refrigerators.

What’s the Average Cost of Lighting Christmas Lights?

Predictably, the cost of Christmas lights per household will vary according to several factors, including where the family resides, what type of lights they’re using, and how long they are keeping the lights on, according to HouseMethod.

HouseMethod first gathered data on each state’s average square footage and electricity rate. Then, they found the most popular Christmas decorations purchased from The Home Depot to use as a median sample. That sample included four sets of 13.25-foot-long icicle lights, two sets of 28.8-foot string lights and two 6-foot-tall inflatable yard decorations. HM calculated the total cost to power these lights for six hours a day, from Thanksgiving to New Year’s Day, in each of the 50 states.

Costs ranged from $10.51 in Washington state to $38.46 in Hawaii, with an expected average of $16.48. To find your specific state, check the interactive map here.

How to Save Money Powering Your Christmas Lights

Now that you know what costs to expect this Christmas, it’s worth learning a few key ways to save money for future Christmases. Pay attention to these four tricks:

Use LED Lights

It’s no secret: LED lights are the most cost-effective. In 2017, the Washington Post determined that running one strand of LED lights costs just 1.4% of the price to run a similar string of incandescent bulbs. Yes, they are more expensive at the initial purchase, but the electric savings handily make up for the downpayment.

Store Lights Properly

Safe, clean storage leads to fewer broken bulbs. In turn, fewer broken bulbs mean that you can keep your lights for longer and bypass the need to buy more strands each year.

Set Timers with Smart Lights

Smart lights conveniently allow you to set them on a timer. This handy feature helps you eliminate extra charges, as you’ll never forget to turn off your lights.

Fix Fuses to Get More Use Out of Your Lights

Those tangled lights at the bottom of the box may still have more life in them yet. Before you throw them away, try repairing the fuses yourself to avoid the cost of replacing the strand.

Other Thrifty Tips

No matter where you’re celebrating Christmas this year, we hope these tips help eliminate some of the financial stress of the season. To save more money on decorations, try finding fun pieces at your local dollar store or making them yourself. After all, no handyman holiday is complete without a festive DIY!

Whether you toss a string of lights on a potted evergreen or deck out your house Clark Griswold-style, putting up Christmas lights gets us into the holiday spirit. Taking them down, though? Not as much of a high. Maybe that’s why some people leave them up until they (and possibly you) just can’t take it anymore.

I had a neighbor who left Christmas lights up year round, and I once neglected mine until February. (Though I did feel bad about that.) But what does an etiquette expert have to say on the subject? How long can you properly — and safely — leave them up?

When To Take Down Christmas Lights

Though you’re free to leave them up as long as you want — barring a city ordinance — Diane Gottsman, an etiquette expert and founder of the Protocol School of Texas, suggests a more firm deadline.

“Lights can come down anytime after Christmas and preferably before Three Kings Day,” she says. That means January 6, the feast of the Epiphany in Christian tradition, which signifies the end of the Twelve Days of Christmas.

The National Fire Protection Association’s National Electric Code (NEC) has its own rule about holiday lights: You can keep them up for 90 days, max.

Why It’s Important To Take Down Christmas Lights

“People who leave their lights up for too long often irritate neighbors who want their neighborhood to look fresh and well-maintained,” Gottsman says. (Guilty. Hey, my neighbor’s sad puddles of flattened inflatables were still there in June!) And, Gottsman says, it detracts from your home’s curb appeal.

“Holiday lights are welcome during the season,” she says. “But when you wait too long to take them down, it appears as if you’ve overlooked an important part of the tradition.”

Let’s talk about the safety aspect, too. The NEC isn’t concerned about judgy neighbors so much as preventing fires. People hang Christmas lights in trees, use a bunch of extension cords and generally do things that aren’t up to code for regular permanent wiring.

What’s more, growing vegetation puts a strain on wiring and can wear down insulation. So take them down in a timely manner, keeping the NEC deadline in mind. Christmas lights aren’t designed for year-round use.

How To Take Down Lights

“There’s always someone who leaves them up too long,” Gottsman says. Don’t let that be you this year. Here are some ideas for removing and storing your Christmas lights, so you’ll be ready to go when next Thanksgiving (or Halloween, for you early birds) rolls around.

Be safe

Don’t just start ripping lights off the house and trees. You’ll break bulbs and stress the wiring, which can be a potential fire hazard. About 790 house fires per year start with holiday decorations, according to the National Fire Protection Association. Unplug all your Christmas lights before taking them down, and practice good ladder safety.

Test

When the excitement of next season rolls around, don’t let a string of dead Christmas lights ruin your mood. Test every light set and other electric decorations now before stashing them. Plug them in to see if they light, or use a Christmas light tester to find and repair common problems like half-illuminated strings.

Store neatly

When you’re certain your Christmas lights are in good working order, don’t just jam them in a box and call it a day. That’s a recipe for frustration next year. Wind them around a cardboard “spool,” or make a real spool with dowels or even 2x4s. Spool them backward, starting at the non-plug end, so it’s easy to unspool from the power source next year.

Label

Some people wing their lighting displays each year. Others, not so much.

If Santa’s sleigh needs a specific wattage or flashing pattern or whatever crazy thing you’re doing this season, label your lights so you know what’s what. Group displays together in containers, and label the outside of the bin.

Recycle

If you discover lights that don’t work and aren’t worth fixing, recycle them. Hardware stores often take them, as do some charities. Check your city and county websites to see your options. Even if your city doesn’t have a recycling program, they should provide disposal and recycling information.

Best Overall Smart Thermostat

Google Nest Learning Thermostat

Nest was one of the first smart thermostats to hit the market, and the brand continues to be one of the most reliable when it comes to WiFi-connected temperature control. The 3rd Generation Google Nest thermostat learns your habits and schedule (like turning the temperature down before you go to bed) and begins to automatically change its settings to best fit your family’s needs.

You can use either Google Assistant or Alexa for voice control. It also sends an alert if something doesn’t seem right (like a sudden drop in temperature), along with helpful reminders to make maintenance easier.

Pros

• Learns your schedule and programs itself
• Compatible with 95% of heating and cooling systems
• Easy installation

Cons

• Small screen might be difficult for some to operate
• Additional room sensors sold separately

Shop Now

Water heaters make up 15 to 20 percent of our home energy bills. According to the Department of Energy, conserving hot water can make these price increases a little less biting.

“Simple things like taking shorter showers, taking fewer baths and not rinsing dishes before loading them into the dishwasher can make a huge difference over time,” says Mallory Micetich, a home expert at Angi. “Also washing your clothes in cold or tap-water temperature water is a great way to significantly reduce your hot water usage.”

Here are additional ways to conserve hot water and reduce your utility bills this winter.

Dishwashing

Only run a full dishwasher. If you only have a few dishes, it might make more sense to handwash them. When rinsing, run the faucet only partially open instead of full throttle.

“Even my kids are learning this tip in school, since it’s a simple and effective way to use less water,” says Jessie Cannizzaro, master plumber and owner of Milestone Plumbing in Wauwatosa, Wisconsin.

Water Leaks

“This one’s a no-brainer,” says Cannizzaro. A drippy faucet wastes water and energy. Check for leaks in toilets, pipes, faucets, appliances and the water heater.

Recirculation Line

When a water heater is far from your faucet, it wastes water and energy because you have to run your tap awhile before hot water arrives.

Instead, install a recirculation line with a pump and a timer. A recirculation line is a separate pipe creating a loop from the water heater to far-away plumbing fixtures. It constantly circulates water in the hot water pipes back into the heater. That way, every time you turn on the water, hot water is always there.

Insulate

Insulate your water heater with a water-heater blanket, and wrap any exposed water lines and pipes with water-line insulation or blankets.

Water Heater Temperature

Often water heaters are set to a hotter temperature than you need. Lowering it will save money. But don’t go below 120 degrees or you risk harmful bacteria growing in your heater, water lines or pipes.

Low-Flow Fixtures

According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), low-flow faucets and showerheads, like those with the WaterSense label, can reduce water flow by 30%.

“Low-flows can save hot water, but only if you use them the right way,” says Cannizzaro. “If you’re just going to run a shower or faucet longer, you’re not necessarily making a difference in your energy bill.”

Old Water Heaters

Replace old water heaters, which lose efficiency with age. The expected lifespan of traditional tank water heaters varies by model, maintenance and where you live. Generally if your tank is more than 12 to 15 years old, it’s time to replace it. To determine its age, look for the date on the manufacturer’s label on the side of the unit, or look up the serial number online.

Old water heaters may collect sediment that will rob the tank of heat, especially if it collects near the heating element. “This is often accompanied by a noise that sounds like popcorn popping when the burner ignites,” says Cannizzaro.

You can drain the tank to get rid of sediment. But if it’s gone too long between drainings, it may not fix the problem. Plus, you could also have corrosion within the tank.

Appliance Upgrades

New technologies are often more efficient. Save water and energy by upgrading to an Energy Star-certified dishwasher and washing machine, which will also save you thousands of gallons of water each year.

For water heaters, tankless and heat pump models can make a difference in energy use as well. Before you decide, consult a plumber in your area to learn your best options. Up-front and maintenance costs vary by region and the particulars of your home.

The idea is that fewer open vents mean less heat demanded from your forced air furnace or heat pump—and a correspondingly lower bill. At first glance, this seems to make sense. After all, if less heat is demanded, less heating fuel is burned, right? Sort of. Trouble is, this hack doesn’t work nearly as well as many people think. In fact, it barely works at all. Keep reading to learn why, and what you can do instead.

Why Closing Heating Vents in Unused Rooms Doesn’t Work

It’s technically true that a warm indoor space loses heat more quickly the greater its temperature difference is from the outdoors. On the surface, this seems like an argument in favor of closing heating vents in unused rooms. But in practice, you won’t lose significantly more heat from a room whether the heating vent supplying it is open or closed. The difference is negligible. You’d only lose heat at a significantly faster rate if you were heating your room so hot it wouldn’t be comfortable or even livable. There are also some significant disadvantages to closing heating vents in unused rooms.

• Stagnant air. If you’re going to close heating vents, you’ll probably also close the doors of the rooms those vents supply. This will lead to a lack of ventilation and stagnant air which will almost certainly trigger window condensation. The cooler the air, the more likely window condensation is to form. Eventually, this condensation will cause mold, mildew and poor air quality in your house.
• Less efficient heating. Forced air heating systems are designed to take cool, unheated air from your house via cold air ducts, heat that air, then force it back into your home via warm air ducts. There are always fewer cold air ducts than warm air ducts, to achieve the correct balance of energy exchange. When you close vents in unused rooms, you restrict airflow to any cold air return ducts in those rooms, ultimately lowering the efficiency of your furnace significantly.

What to Do Instead

• Add insulation. Many homes, even modern homes, lack proper insulation. If yours is one of them, improving the insulation in the walls and roof will do far more good to your finances this winter than closing a few heating vents. In fact, the EPA estimates that properly insulating and air sealing your house leads to average energy savings of 15%.
• Maximize heating system efficiency. Improve the performance of your heating system by making sure it’s fully serviced, all filters are cleaned regularly, etc. If your heating system is old, replacing it with a more efficient model makes sense, and will definitely lead to energy savings.

What Is a Heat Pump?

While traditional furnaces generate warmth via flames or a heating element, a heat pump pushes existing heat into a colder region. Heat pumps channel excess heat out of your home during the summer and into it during the winter. Since they’re only moving heat rather than generating it, they use far less energy than traditional furnaces.

If you’re considering an upgrade to your home’s heating system, then make sure you know the difference between heat pump versus furnace.

Types of Heat Pumps

Here are some of the most common:

Standard heat pump

Sometimes called air source heat pumps, these use ambient air temperature and feature two sets of coils, one indoors and the other outdoors. They often come with a backup electrical heating element in case the exterior temperature drops too low for the pump to properly function.

Dual fuel heat pump

These operate until the ambient temperature drops too low, when it switches over to an alternate fuel source. Mark Woodruff, outdoor product manager at Trane Residential, compares them to “a hybrid car that runs on electricity as often as possible and switches to gas as needed.”

Cold climate heat pump

Colder temperatures call for specialized heat pumps. Cold climate air source heat pumps (ccASHPs) operate in temperatures of five degrees or lower.

Mini-split heat pump

These have a single outdoor unit tied to multiple indoor units (or “heads”) that distribute the conditioned air in the home. Users can set different temperatures for each head. These are a great choice for a home without ductwork.

Geothermal heat pump

Geothermal models exchange heat with temperatures below ground to shed excess heat or cold from your home. Geothermal units are normally installed during construction rather than as an upgrade.

Heat Pump Features and Considerations

Here are some things to keep in mind when looking for a heat pump:

Sizing

Getting the right sized HVAC system for your home is important. An undersized unit will struggle to heat/cool the home. An oversized one will hit the desired temperature before it completes its cycle, resulting in frequent stops/starts that will shorten its lifespan.

Heat pump sizes are described in tons. A “ton” in HVAC lingo is 12,000 British Thermal Units (BTUs), so a four-ton heat pump produces 48,000 BTUs per hour. Properly sizing a heat pump accounts for the volume of the home, sun exposure, insulation and more.

Climate appropriateness

Almost all modern heat pumps are effective in temperatures as low as 25 degrees, with some dipping down to zero. If you live in a cold climate, check the manufacturer’s specs on operating temperatures, or look for a dual fuel or ccASHA heat pump.

Energy efficiency

Look for Energy Star certification. If possible, opt for a unit with a variable speed compressor and fan, which will work harder when needed and coast along with minor energy use when it’s not.

How Much Do Heat Pumps Cost?

A standard heat pump installation runs from $5,000 to $8,000.

This assumes a typical three-bedroom, single-family home with two stories and a pre-existing duct system. Features that can drive up heat pump pricing include size, efficiency, variable-speed blowers and cold climate capabilities.

What Incentives Are Available for Buying Heat Pumps?

The IRA rolled out a range of incentives tied to heat pumps, specifically in the High Efficiency Electric Home Rebate Act (HEEHRA). A household may qualify for a tax credit or rebate on heat pumps and heat pump water heaters purchased after Jan. 1, 2023.

Rebates are available on a sliding scale to households with income less than 150% of the area median income. Tax credits are worth up to 30% of the installed cost, capped at $2,000.

That the IRA addresses installation costs, as well as materials costs, is a true game changer. Francois Lebrasseur, utility sector manager at A. O. Smith, says basing the credits on the full installation cost means homeowners will enjoy “huge upfront savings and in some instances, potentially break even.”

Woodruff also credits the IRA for covering “hidden costs” of installation, like running 240-volt wiring or upgrading a home’s breaker panel.

Heat Pump Maintenance

Heat pumps are relatively low maintenance. Two easy steps will go a long way toward keeping your heat pump running smoothly.

• Change the filter as needed: The biggest thing you can do is also the simplest. Use a properly-sized filter and change it regularly. A heat pump with a dirty filter is like a smoker running a marathon. He or she might finish, but their lungs will work a lot harder than they should.
• Check the external unit: It needs about 18 inches of clear space around it to function properly. Remove leaf or snow buildup during the fall and winter, and trim back any shrubs or tree branches that encroach during the spring and summer.

Five 200-watt panels supplied 16 humungous lead-acid batteries, which in turn fed the main panel through an external inverter. The system included a noisy 10-kilowatt (kW) diesel generator that kept the batteries charged when the panels weren’t doing the job.

Needless to say, the generator cycled on frequently. And after a few years of occupancy, we found the frequency steadily increasing. It took me that much time to discover why — we weren’t cleaning the panels.

We get little rain from April to November. During that time, dust settled on the panels and reduced their efficiency. Even the rain we did get didn’t clear the panels, and the residue sometimes compounded the problem.

As we upgrade the system, we’re making cleaning a monthly task. We’re luckier than some because the panels are at ground level and easy to access. People with roof-mounted panels have a potentially more dangerous job. Some roofs are really steep, requiring rubber-soled shoes and possibly a safety harness. Working from a ladder presents its own hazards.

If your solar panels are on your roof and you don’t feel confident climbing, consider booking professional cleaning and inspection. Solar maintenance pros operate in many communities. A cleaning typically costs $10 to $15 per panel, while an annual inspection for cracked glass, frayed wires and loose connections runs about $150.

How Often Do Solar Panels Need to Be Cleaned?

Solar experts generally recommend every six months to a year, but much depends on local conditions. In areas with abundant rainfall, panel efficiency may not suffer if you wait longer between cleanings. But don’t wait too long. Rainwater contains impurities that leave a film on the glass. We don’t get snow, but people who do must remove that whenever it accumulates.

Panel placement is also a factor. Panels downwind of pollen-producing trees and vegetation must be cleaned more often than those upwind. It’s smart to inspect the panels every week or two and clean off any accumulated debris.

When Is the Best Time to Clean Solar Panels?

Cloudy days are best for cleaning. Solar panels get really hot in full sun, and the glass can crack if you douse them with cold water. If you have extended periods of sunny weather like we do in California, clean the panels in the early morning or late evening when they’re cool.

Seasonally, the best time for cleaning also depends on local conditions. In a region with heavy snowfall, a good cleaning in early spring removes debris deposited with the snow, while a mid-to-late fall cleaning clears contaminants that fly around in the summer air.

Smoke and haze from wildfires can also leave heavy deposits that should be cleaned whenever they occur.

How To Clean Solar Panels

If you’re cleaning roof-mounted solar panels, decide whether it’s safer to climb on the roof or work from a ladder. In either case, you’ll need a brush with a long pole.

Difficult as it may be to reach the middle of a single panel with your arm, it’s impossible to reach panels arranged side-by-side in an array. A brush on a telescoping pole allows efficient cleaning whether you’re on the roof or a ladder. Even better — although a slightly bigger investment — is a water-fed brush with attached squeegee.

Tools and materials to clean solar panels

• Garden hose;
• Pole soft-bristle brush;
• Glass cleaner or hard water stain remover;
• Garden sprayer;
• Window squeegee.

Step 1: Wet down the panel and brush away debris

• Use a garden hose to spray clear water over the entire surface of the panel. An expandable hose works best because it’s lightweight and easier to carry.
• Brush the panel with a soft-bristle pole brush to remove loose debris. Pay special attention the edges of the panel where dirt tends to accumulate, especially the bottom
• If you’re using a water-fed brush, turn on the water and brush while the water sprays.

Step 2: Spray the panel with glass cleaner

• Pour some concentrated glass cleaner into a garden sprayer and add water, per the directions. Spray the solution over the entire panel.
• Substitute hard water stain remover if you notice whitish deposits on the glass. They indicate calcium buildup that probably won’t come off with regular glass cleaner. Rain and snow are full of minerals that can leave such deposits.
• Pro tip: Don’t use soap of any kind. It will leave a film that partially blocks light.

Step 3: Scrub again

• Let the cleaner sit for a few minutes to break up dirt. Then scrub with your pole or water-fed brush, but don’t use any water.
• Spray and scrub repeatedly to remove stubborn hard water stains.

Step 4: Rinse with clean water

• Flood the panel with clean water from the garden hose. Use the pole brush to thoroughly clean off the glass cleaner or stain remover and all the dirt that comes with it.
• If you’re using a water-fed brush, turn on the water and brush and spray at the same time.

Step 5: Squeegee the panel dry

• Squeegee the panel in a horizontal or vertical direction, starting at the top and working down as if you were cleaning a windshield.
• Skip this step if you don’t have a squeegee long enough to reach. The panel will still be clean, but a few streaks may remain.

Babcock Ranch claims to be the first solar-powered town of the future. Its homes and utilities were designed to withstand major storms, a significant factor in limiting the damage from Hurricane Ian. With so many environmentally-friendly features involved in solar energy, that’s no small feat.

So what makes this town so different? We dug in to learn more about its sustainable urban development.

What is Babcock Ranch Doing Differently?

A few things set Babcock Ranch apart from other Florida towns.

First, every inch of the town was designed with sustainability in mind. Buildings were made of storm-resistant materials. Off-grid solar panels generate enough power for all its residents. And its wastewater system is such that if the town loses control or access to water, it won’t run out.

Benefits of Solar Power

Solar power is a great way to prepare for natural disasters, but it also helps you save money and be more sustainable. Some of the benefits of solar power include:

• Fewer worries about power outages. If your solar panels are installed correctly, they can still generate energy during an outage.
• The energy from your solar panels can charge batteries, so you won’t have to rely on electricity from the grid. This is especially useful if you live in an area prone to power outages or other natural disasters that could leave you without access to electricity for days at a time.
• The carbon footprint for solar panel use is roughly 20 times less than that of coal-powered electricity sources, depending on how much sunlight you get and how much energy the panels produce overall. Many people install solar power systems because they want lower monthly bills—and it works.

Could This Be the Future?

It’s not just Babcock Ranch moving towards solar power. Many other communities are making the switch because solar power benefits the environment. It can reduce greenhouse gas emissions from sources like coal-fired power plants by up to 80 percent.

Solar energy is also much more economical than you might think. According to the U.S. Energy Information Administration (EIA), electricity from rooftop solar panels costs about five cents per kilowatt hour in areas with average sunlight, less than what you’re likely to pay for electricity from a utility company.

With all these benefits, it begs the question: Will your community be next?

Struggling to find bulbs that aren’t too bright for your home? If this is the case, make sure you’re looking for the right information on the packaging.

Many people assume wattage is the only important factor to brightness. If you fall into this group, you’ve probably been frustrated when different wattages aren’t giving you the result you want. But watts don’t actually measure brightness at all.

What Do Watts Measure?

You might remember learning the equation to determine watts in your physics class: W=(A)(V). Watts are increments of power, the result of amps being under the pressure of volts. So a light bulb with a higher wattage will use more power than one with a lower wattage. But does this always correlate to bulb brightness?

Spoiler alert: No! Brightness is actually measured by lumens, not watts.

Different kinds of bulbs draw varying levels of power regardless of individual brightness. Take LEDs, which are popular because they draw much less power. This means they have a lower wattage, but not that they’re always dimmer than their incandescent counterparts.

How to Find a Lower-Light bulb

When looking for a lower-light bulb, check the lumens. That’s the key information. Wattage has more bearing on your power bill than brightness.

Look into incandescent and LED options. Often, LED bulbs use less power and last longer. You can even check out smart bulbs. These generally can change color, so you’ll be set no matter what mood you want to evoke.

No matter what type you pick, do your research to see how many lumens you need to light your space.

“The climate-related measures in the Inflation Reduction Act aim to lower homeowners’ energy consumption and increase our homes’ efficiency,” says Mallory Micetich, a home expert at Angi. “But keep in mind that many of the IRA’s benefits are based on income, so high-earning households may not qualify.”

Even if your financial status precludes you from taking advantage of IRA rebates, your state and utilities may offer similar incentives. “Do your research and ask your contractors about different programs,” says Sara Baldwin, director of electrification at Energy Innovation. “Regardless of your income, energy efficiency is a smart investment that pays off in the long-run.”

Here are some of the most effective and affordable steps you can take to cut your monthly energy bills.

Energy Audit

Find out which parts of your home are most in need of an efficiency upgrade. The IRA offers up to $150 toward an energy audit, which typically costs between $200 and $600. These include a room-by-room inspection of everything from door seals to appliance efficiency testing.

To find local energy audit services, ask your power company, state or local government energy office. Or try the U.S. Department of Energy’s Home Energy Score program and Home Performance with Energy Star.

Weatherizing

Boosting your insulation and sealing leaks around your windows and doors helps as well. “Insulating the attic, walls and crawlspace or basement, as well as airsealing is where it’s at,” says Nate Burger of Eco Handyman in Boulder, Colorado. “This comes before replacing windows and switching to air source heat pumps and solar.”

The IRA offers a $1,200 tax credit per year for weatherization, and with an additional $1,600 rebate down the road. The U.S. Department of Energy offers a handy guide with tips on how to weatherize your home. Or you can hire a pro.

LED Lighting

Swapping out your incandescent bulbs for LEDs is one of the most cost-effective energy savers. “You’ve probably heard people say this a billion times,” says Micetich, “but now there’s an enormous variety of color, brightness and size, so there is no reason not to, especially because the price has come down.”

Some states and many electric utilities offer financial incentives to help with the switch to LED.

Smart Controls

A relatively new development, smart apps and devices like Kasa Home and Nest can help you use less electricity during peak times when it’s in high demand and more expensive.

“This is a breakthrough for the industry,” says Bartholomy. “For example, you can pre-cool your home before you get home from work, or heat up your water in the middle of the day when electricity is cheaper, then use it for your evening showers and dishwashing. It’s also really going to help the grid when we’re dealing with heat waves.”

Cooking

Gas for cooking is not only inefficient, it’s bad for indoor air quality. The IRA offers rebates for switching to an electric range. If you aren’t ready for that, try an induction hob countertop burner or an electric kettle to reduce your gas use. A double hob costs around $200.

“It will give you the opportunity to fall in love with induction before giving up your gas stove,” says Bartholomy. “It will also give you some extra efficiency and cleaner air in the meantime.”

Heat Pump Water Heaters

If your water heater breaks, Rheem has a breakthrough solution. The company just introduced the first 120-volt heat pump water heater, which can be plugged in without a dedicated circuit breaker. Starting in January, the IRA will offer a $2,000 tax credit for a heat pump water heater.

Heat Pump HVAC

Heat pump systems are not cheap, ranging from around $10,000 to $18,000. But they’re a great investment if you need to upgrade your heating or want to add cooling in your home.

“There are so many benefits to a heat pump HVAC unit,” says Bartholomy. “You get heat and AC in one unit. They’re quiet, incredibly efficient, and they work in every climate.” And they can cut energy costs by 50 percent, so if you can afford one, the savings will add up.

These systems are available as wall, ducted and window units. Starting in January 2023, they’re eligible for IRA tax credits of $2,000. While you can DIY some of the work, the systems do require professional installation. Check with local incentive programs to find a qualified contractor, or ask the manufacturer for preferred contractors in your area.

HVAC and Water Heater Maintenance

Get your AC and furnace checked at least once a year by a professional to ensure they’re operating as efficiently as possible, says Baldwin. Change your filters once every three months, or more frequently if your area experiences a lot of bad air days or smoke from wildfires.

“These are low-hanging fruit and can help save money immediately and year round if done with frequency,” she says. “Just as you tune your car periodically, treat your HVAC system the same way. It will last longer and save you money.”

Also, adjust the thermostat on your water heater. Most water heaters are set to high by default, resulting in scalding hot water and energy waste. A slight adjustment down can make a big difference and save money.

Electrical Panels and Service

Research whether a heat pump, induction cooktop or other energy-efficient electrical device requires additional amperage in your electrical panel or upgraded wiring.

“Get an understanding of that because you don’t want a situation where you disconnected your furnace or your air conditioner and realize, oh, no, I need to go through a whole process with my utility to upgrade my panel before I can put a new one in,” says Panama Bartholomy, director of the Building Decarbonization Coalition.

What’s the End Game?

After you’ve weatherized your home, the ultimate goal for energy efficiency is to switch every appliance to electric.

“An all-electric house is the best kind of house for climate, and also for your wallet,” says Bartholomy. “The electric grid can be powered by all the different kinds of fuels, like sun, wind, hydro, etc., so if everyone uses electric appliances then the grid can get cleaner over time and can adjust inputs as needed.”

Luna2000

The Luna2000 from Huawei features five kWh modules that can be seamlessly stacked together to make a five, 10 or 15 kWh system. The batteries employ clean LFP technology and an internal heating system to perform better in cold climates.

Each battery module has 100 percent DoD and generates 2.5 kW of continuous energy and 3.5 kW of peak (instantaneous) energy. The inverter, which has the same sleek style as the battery modules, is sold separately. It connects easily to the battery bank and to the home’s electrical panel.

This is good news for solar households. Battery technology is just as important as the panels themselves, which are becoming increasingly affordable and more efficient.

I moved onto my solar property in 2008. At that time, the battery bank consisted of 16 lead-acid monsters, each weighing 50 pounds or more and needing water every three months or so. Without that water, the batteries would dry up and die like plants, and a few did.

The inverter that converted the DC battery power to 120-volt AC power for the lights and appliances was a 200-pound behemoth. It practically broke my back when I hauled it all the way to Oregon for service after a lightning strike knocked it out.

Today’s solar batteries are not only lighter and longer-lasting, but many feature built-in inverters and charge controllers. That makes them smaller and easier to install. They’re also more efficient. Smart batteries can regulate themselves, remaining in charging mode while the sun is out and switching to discharge at night. This ensures an uninterrupted flow of electricity.

Also important to note, that as of January 1, 2023, tax credits for solar energy systems are now available. They were included as part of the Inflation Reduction Act that was passed in 2022. Homeowners can get a 30 percent tax credit on solar energy systems.

What Are Solar Batteries?

As everyone knows, a battery is a device that stores electrical energy. These days, they’re almost everywhere. These features distinguish solar batteries from the rest:

• Chemistry: Most solar batteries incorporate some form of lithium-ion technology. Unlike alkaline or lead-acid batteries, they have no liquid electrolyte and can’t leak. Unlike nickel-cadmium (Ni-Cad) batteries, they aren’t toxic.
• Depth of discharge (DoD): Solar batteries are a type of deep-discharge battery, meaning they can safely be discharged almost completely before needing recharging. The minimum DoD for traditional rechargeable batteries is 50 percent, but the DoD of many solar batteries approaches 100 percent.
• Power rating: This shows how much energy you can get from the battery at one time, measured in kilowatts (kW). Besides a continuous power rating, many solar batteries have a five-minute instantaneous power rating as well. It’s measures how much power the battery can provide in short bursts. That’s important if you have a device that needs lots of power all at once, like a sump pump.
• Capacity: Measured in kilowatt-hours (kWh), this shows how much power the battery can store. Solar batteries generally have higher capacities than other types.
• Discharge rate (C-rate): Solar batteries have a higher discharge rate than ordinary rechargeable batteries. This means more of the battery’s stored power is available in the short term for operating appliances.
• Lifespan:  Solar batteries typically last 10 to 15 years, longer than ordinary rechargeables.
• Maintenance: Most modern solar batteries are sealed and require no maintenance. Disposal isn’t usually an issue because most of their components are recyclable.

Types of Solar Batteries

If you categorize solar batteries by chemistry, there are three main types: lithium-ion, flow and lead-acid.

Lithium-ion batteries are the most common because they’re light and clean with lots of energy storage. There are two types: lithium nickel manganese cobalt oxide (NMC) and lithium iron phosphate (LFP). NMC batteries tend to be more powerful so they can be smaller, while LFP batteries last longer.

Flow batteries are generally industrial-sized and not currently an option for homeowners. Lead-acid batteries are reliable but, as mentioned above, more cumbersome and require more maintenance than lithium-ion.

Besides chemistry, there are four other ways to compare solar batteries:

• Integrated inverter: Some solar batteries require an external inverter (an extra expense), but many have built-in inverters and charge controllers.
• Coupling: Batteries can have AC or DC coupling, which means they can be tied to AC or DC loads. AC coupling is easier to install because the output can be fed straight into the electric panel. DC coupling, however, has better overall energy efficiency.
• Stackable: Some solar batteries can link up with additional batteries. This provides the flexibility of sizing a storage system according to your needs.
• Voltage: Solar batteries can operate at six, 12, 24 or 48 volts. Battery voltage must match that of the solar panels.

Solar Battery Pros and Cons

An off-grid solar property needs battery storage, but not necessarily a grid-tied one. A grid-tied solar generating system may feed electricity directly to the power company, and even when it doesn’t, the grid can function as a backup.

Nonetheless, grid-tied houses can benefit from batteries, although there are some drawbacks.

Pros

• Electricity during power outages: Quieter and cleaner than a generator, a solar battery provides power during storms, rotating outages and public safety outages. The latter are increasingly common in wildfire country.
• Lower energy costs: With a battery backup, you can turn off the power grid at time when electricity rates are higher, saving money.
• Ease load on the power grid: Any stored energy you use means less energy demand on the power company.

Cons

• Cost: Solar batteries aren’t cheap. Prices for full installation range from $6,000 to $20,000, and they don’t last forever. Warranty periods are typically 10 years or so.
• Increased complexity: You’ll need space for the batteries. And you have to add extra wiring and a transfer switch, so you can disconnect your panel from the grid when you’re on battery power during an outage.
• Environmental impact: Lithium mining negatively affects the environment. This is partially offset because most materials in solar batteries are recyclable, but it’s still a strategic problem as demand for lithium-ion batteries increases.

• Increase the production of clean energy technology in the U.S., including solar panel parts;
• Increase the overall capacity of domestic solar manufacturing by entering into streamlined federal contracts with manufacturers;
• Pause tariffs for 24 months on imported solar panels and parts to ensure consistent supply.

“Together, these actions will spur domestic manufacturing, construction projects, and good-paying jobs — all while cutting energy costs for families, strengthening our grid, and tackling climate change and environmental injustice,” the official White House statement says.

Through this initiative, the Biden Administration hopes to dramatically increase domestic production of five main clean energy technologies:

• Solar panel parts;
• Building insulation;
• Heat pumps that heat and cool buildings efficiently;
• Equipment powered by clean electricity-generated fuels;
• Power grid infrastructure, including transformers.

The announcement of these initiatives was met with mixed responses. Some U.S. solar panel manufacturers criticized the decision to pause tariffs on imported solar technologies, saying it undermines domestic production of solar components. Representatives from the solar installation industry were generally more supportive of the move.

“A two-year moratorium is a great step in the right direction,” Sunnova CEO John Berger told Forbes. “Tariffs not only hurt the American economy and the consumer, they also stifle innovation and competition in the market.”

Secretary of Commerce Gina Raimondo released a statement supporting these initiatives.

“As we invest in expanding domestic solar manufacturing and strengthening supply chains to protect our long-term energy security, imported solar panels remain an important component to addressing the immediate demands of bringing additional energy sources online and addressing the energy needs of the American people,” said Raimondo.

“The President’s emergency declaration ensures America’s families have access to reliable and clean electricity while also ensuring we have the ability to hold our trading partners accountable to their commitments.”

Soon, America may be seeing more solar-powered towns like Babcock Ranch.

According to this chart from the U.S. Energy Information Agency (EIA), consumers in New England pay an average of 22 cents per kilowatt-hour of electricity, almost twice as much as those in Kentucky, Mississippi, Alabama and Tennessee. Regional electricity costs depend factors like the type of fuel used, the integrity of the regional power grid, weather conditions and state regulations.

But here’s something else that affects your electric bill — when you use it. In some states and with some power companies, the average amount you pay per kilowatt-hour fluctuates during the day. In what’s known as “time of use” billing, or peak hour/off-peak billing, power companies charge according to demand.

Knowing how electricity peak hours work can save you some money, as well as take some of the strain off your community’s power grid.

What Are Peak Electricity Hours?

These are the times of day when electricity consumption is highest. It varies by season and region.

For residential dwellings, think about the times of day you and your family are most active — watching TV, blow-drying your hair, making coffee, running the dishwasher or tossing in a load of laundry. If everyone else in your community follows the same usage pattern, there’s much higher demand for electricity during those periods. And here’s a new wrinkle affecting peak hours — people charging their electric cars.

The time of year determines peak hours, too. In most parts of the country, when summertime temperatures soar, electricity consumption peaks during the hottest hours of the day as businesses, schools and malls crank the air conditioning.

In contrast, winter months see lower household daytime consumption when homes are more likely to be empty, but peak consumption at night when families return and fire up household appliances.

What Are Time of Use Rates?

Time of use rates (abbreviated as TOU) fluctuate based on peak hours. Power companies charge more for electricity during peak hours and less in off-peak times.

These rates exist for understandable reasons. When there is more pressure on the power grid, it costs more to produce the additional electricity to meet the demand. Higher rates theoretically give consumers incentive to decrease their usage during peak times, lessening pressure on the grid.

Some power companies offer TOU rate plans, guaranteeing a fixed kilowatt-hour rate when you consume electricity during off-peak hours. The difference between peak and off-peak TOU rates varies from company to company, but may be as much as 15 to 20 cents per kilowatt-hour.

What’s the Cheapest Time of Day To Use Electricity?

The formula for finding the cheapest time of day to use electricity is pretty simple — don’t use it when everyone else is!

In practical terms, in most parts of the country, these are considered peak hours:

• In summer, typically between noon and 6 p.m. when air conditioners are on full-throttle.
• In winter, typically between 6 a.m. and 9 a.m., and again between 5 p.m. and 9 p.m. — before and after work.

Off-peak hours line up like this:

• In summer, from about 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., after the hottest part of the day.
• In winter, from about 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., when houses are empty and daytime temps are higher

In virtually all seasons and regions, nighttime hours from 9 p.m. or until 5 a.m. are off-peak.

Electricity Money Saving Tips

While it might make financial sense to avoid peak hours, the rhythms of daily life often dictate our electricity use. But there are some ways to take advantage of off-peak rates:

• Before leaving the house for the day, be sure to raise the thermostat in the summer and lower it in the winter.
• Program smart appliances like washers, dryers and dishwashers to run at night during off-peak hours.
• On winter evenings, set the thermostat a little lower, light a fire in the fireplace, wear extra layers or snuggle under a cozy throw blanket.
• Weather-proofing your home and weather stripping windows and doors will keep cold or warm air in, depending on the season.

Types of Skylight Shades

Skylight shades are typically custom-made to fit a skylight’s precise dimensions. They come in all kinds of materials with varying degrees of effectiveness.

Densely-made room darkening or “blackout” shades will completely block sunlight from entering a room, even during the brightest times of the day. Light filtering shades will let in more light but also insulate skylights, reducing the energy drain they can have on a room.

Skylight shades open and close manually or via a motor. Much like traditional shades, manual skylight shades can be opened and closed with cords and poles. Motorized skylight shades work by remote control or smartphone app. This feature is especially convenient if you open and close your shades multiple times a day.

How to Choose Skylight Shades

Choosing the right skylight shades for your home mostly depends on how you use the room(s) where you’re installing them.

If it’s a place for daytime naps or a home movie theater, choose a blackout shade to make it as dark as possible. If you’re less concerned with blocking light and want to increase the energy efficiency, go with light filtering shades. They’ll still block most light while providing key insulation in an area likely to be a significant thermal leak

Best Skylight Shades

Here are three of the best skylight shades on the market, including manual and motorized options.

Levelor Light Filtering Skylight Cellular Shades

• The honeycomb design insulates the window and the room.
• Operated using standard manual cord controls.
• The fabric’s light filtering capability blocks harmful UV rays.

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Levelor Room Darkening Skylight Cellular Shades

• “Blackout” shades block all light; perfect for bedrooms or home theaters.
• Comes in multiple colors.
• Can be made with double cell honeycomb fabric that dampens sound and reduces noise.

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Blindsgalore Motorized Skylight Shade

• The shades can be opened and closed with the touch of a button.
• The battery can be charged via solar power.
• Compatible with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant.

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So are electric heated blankets risky to use, or relatively harmless? Here we’ll take a look at some of the safety and health risks associated with electric blankets, and examine whether it’s a good idea to use them in your home.

Are Electric Blankets a Fire Hazard?

The most obvious safety risk presented by electric blankets is starting a fire in your home. But while there are certainly examples of this, those cases represent a tiny fraction of home fires.

“Electric-heated blankets don’t statistically reflect a significant home fire hazard,” Susan McKelvey, communications manager of the National Fire Protection Association, told the Today Show. “Considering that there is an average of nearly 360,000 home fires each year, fires started by electric blankets represented just .04 percent of those fires.”

If you’re using a new electric blanket, the fire hazard risk is minimal. Older electric blankets present a bigger danger. Wire damage and frayed fabric in older electric blankets can spark a house fire.

If you’re suddenly tempted to use an electric blanket that’s been lying around the house for a while, carefully inspect it for signs of damage before plugging it in. The electric blanket is more than ten years old, don’t use it. And don’t buy electric blankets secondhand.

Are Electric Blankets Bad for Your Health?

In most situations, electric blankets don’t pose a significant health risk. Over the years there’s been speculation that devices that create electric and magnetic fields (EMFs), like heated blankets and hair dryers, could cause cancer. Those theories have been thoroughly debunked by the National Cancer Institute.

There’s one primary danger with electric blankets: They may cause a person to overheat if left on too long, or overnight. Getting an electric blanket with a timer helps minimize that issue. If you’re pregnant and want to use an electric blanket, experts recommend keeping it on a low setting and monitoring your body temperature for any fluctuations.

How to Safely Store an Electric Blanket

Proper storage is essential to keeping your electric blanket in good condition.

• Unplug the cords and store them in a small bag.
• To keep the wires in good shape, don’t overfold the blanket or crease it too sharply.
• Don’t place anything on top of the blanket in storage.
• Don’t store the blanket where your pets could get at it.

If you follow these steps, your electric heated blanket will be safe to use all winter long. You might even be able to lower your thermostat a bit.

The key to keeping firewood ready is to keep it dry, which can only be accomplished through proper stacking and storing. Here are the best ways to stack and store firewood and keep it free of moisture.

Tips for Stacking Firewood

Stacking firewood properly is essential to ensuring the wood is properly dried and seasoned. Estimates for how long you should dry firewood assume that the wood is stacked and stored properly. If you keep your firewood in an unorganized pile, chances are high at least some of the logs will remain damp, waterlogged and mostly useless. While there are many variations of firewood stacking methods, all tend to follow the same basic principles:

• The cut ends should be left out in the open and exposed to the elements.
• The wood should be kept off the ground and at least a couple of inches away from any walls.
• The wood should be stacked loosely enough that it can breathe and dry, letting out any remaining moisture.
• Position the stack in direct sunlight.

How to Store Firewood

Keep the bulk of your wood outdoors. All kinds of bugs and other small critters take up residence in firewood. Bringing a large amount of firewood into your house is basically asking for some sort of pest infestation. Instead, keep the bulk of it outdoors and only bring about a day’s worth inside at a time.

Pick a storage location close to your home so your trips out to grab more wood aren’t too much of an inconvenience. If you plan on burning a lot of wood and making frequent trips to your woodpile, consider investing in a wheelbarrow.

Don’t pile your firewood on dirt or grass. If you have to, you can always elevate the firewood by laying two to four parallel boards as a solid base for your stack. You could also buy outdoor firewood racks or even build your own.

You’ll also need to cover your firewood stack to keep it dry and safe from the elements. The simplest way is throwing a tarp over it. To keep the tarp from flying off with a gust of wind, tie it down or anchor it with bricks or spare logs. Make sure you leave the sides of the stack uncovered so that air can flow through.

Check with your city or county for any regulations concerning firewood storage. City codes can be pretty strict, so be sure you’re following those guidelines before you start stacking.

By coating buildings in this ultra-white and highly reflective paint, researchers estimate that they can cool buildings without any mechanical air conditioning units.

“If you were to use this paint to cover a roof area of about 1,000 square feet, we estimate that you could get a cooling power of 10 kilowatts,” said Xiulin Ruan, a Purdue professor of mechanical engineering. “That’s more powerful than the central air conditioners used by most houses.”

The paint, officially certified by Guinness World Records as the “whitest paint in the world,” has gone through multiple iterations and retoolings. The finished formula uses a chemical compound called barium sulfate, the same one that gives paper and makeup their whiteness. The particles are all different shapes and sizes, adding to their reflectiveness.

Researchers at Purdue demonstrated the cooling powers of this white paint with impressive results. During testing, surfaces covered in the white paint were eight degrees F cooler than their surrounding area when exposed to strong sunlight during noon hours. At night, the paint kept surfaces 19 degrees cooler than their surroundings.

Typical “heat-reflecting” paints on the market reflect 80 to 90 percent of sunlight. Purdue researchers say its ultra-white paint reflects up to 98.1 percent. While it is technically possible to make the paint even whiter, researchers worry that doing so would compromise the integrity of the paint.

“Although a higher particle concentration is better for making something white, you can’t increase the concentration too much,” said Xiangyu Li, a postdoctoral researcher at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology who worked on this project as a Purdue doctoral student. “The higher the concentration, the easier it is for the paint to break or peel off.”

So when will this paint find its way into the hands of the public? It might be sooner than you think. According to a news release, Purdue has filed patent applications for the paint formula and is working with an unidentified company to scale up the production and get it on the market.

The Philips LED A-class bulbs, available in 40W and 60W equivalents, went on the market in Europe on Sept. 1. The bulbs, in “white” or “cool white,” reduce energy consumption by 60 percent compared to standard Philips LED bulbs, according to the release. The bulbs meet updated European Union ecodesign and labeling regulations that also took effect Sept. 1. It’s not clear when or if they will be available for sale in the United States.

“Our passion for a better and more sustainable world pushed us to further innovate and increase the energy efficiency of our LED lighting,” said Michael Rombouts, the business unit leader for LED lamps and luminaires at Signify. “With this technological breakthrough, we created our most energy-efficient lamp in this shape yet, while maintaining the same high quality of LED lighting that our customers are used to.”

The bulbs use new technology to “cut carbon emissions, reduce material waste, and lower energy usage,” according to Signify. The company claims the bulbs can burn up to 50,000 hours, three times longer than standard Philips LED bulb equivalents. (Signify calculates the 50-year timeline based on three hours a day of residential use.) The bulbs remain energy efficient, using one-third of the energy of standard equivalents, according to Signify.

Choose the Right Type

There are two main types of central air conditioning units. The most common is a split system, where the condensing unit is outdoors while the evaporator coil and air handler are indoors. In the second type, known as a package system, all three components are installed in the same place. The box is usually placed on the roof or the ground close by. The ducts connect directly to it.

Split systems are more affordable, quiet and efficient than package systems, which are typically only used in commercial buildings.

Consider Energy Efficiency

Jay Kline, general manager at Penguin Air, Plumbing & Electrical, recommends checking a system’s seasonal energy efficiency ratio (SEER) before buying. The SEER rating indicates the total cooling capacity over the amount of energy used in the same period of time.

The minimum SEER you’ll see on a new central air conditioning system today is 13, but SEER ratings go up to 24. Older systems will typically have a SEER of 10 or less, so even lower-rated new systems are a step up in efficiency.

Choose the Right Size

With residential central air conditioning systems, bigger is not always better. Kline warns that air conditioners too large for the home can hinder proper cooling. To determine the correct size, contractors use a heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) load calculation. It starts with the home’s square footage and considers other factors, such as the climate, insulation grade, number of windows and doors, and number of occupants.

The same variables also factor into the British Thermal Units (Btu) needed to cool the home. It’s often best to consult with an HVAC professional when sizing a home air conditioner system.

Set Clear Expectations to Lower Costs

The cost of a central air conditioning system varies on the size and design of the home. There are a lot of customizable options for efficiency, air filtration, zoning, smart system, ducting and insulation.

According to Tyler Zegarzewski, an HVAC Service Manager for AirCo, partial system replacements can cost as little as $2,000. The most efficient systems, with complete duct replacement, zoning, indoor air quality upgrades and filtration for a large home, can cost as much as $40,000.

Zegarzewski says, “If you are looking to get a lower price, be straightforward about what you are expecting and provide a date you intend to have the work completed.” The more you show that you’re a serious buyer, the more willing a contractor will be to work with you to find the best solution for your needs.

Inspect the Existing Ductwork

Before installing a central air conditioner, have your existing ductwork inspected. Not all ducts can handle the higher level of airflow from a new air conditioning system, and modifications might be needed. In homes without existing ductwork, it will need to be installed. Modifying or installing new ductwork can add thousands to the cost.

For homes without ductwork, split-ductless systems are often a better choice.

Place It in the Right Place

When installing your air conditioning unit, consider exposure to direct sunlight and water, as well as obstructions in the area. Kline recommends placing the condenser on the north side of a home because it gets the least direct sunlight, so it stays cooler.

Hiding your air conditioner behind bushes or large plants is not a good idea. It prevents proper airflow, plus loose branches and leaves can build up and cause damage. “A central air conditioner should have two to three feet of clearance on each side, as obstructions can prevent the system from adequately cooling,” Kline says.

When mowing, make sure you don’t accidentally blow grass clippings at the condenser. This will stress the motor and require it to work harder.

Do the Proper Maintenance

Regular maintenance can ensure your air conditioning system operates at its peak. Manufacturers also require annual maintenance to maintain warranties. Zegarzewski suggests checking your cooling system in the spring and your heating system in the fall. Preventative maintenance will improve efficiency, saving you money. Regular maintenance is also the best way to prevent pricey repairs.

While you can do your own HVAC inspections and maintenance, you might miss crucial details that a professional AC technician can spot. Plus, there are things an HVAC technician is licensed to do that you can’t, like adding refrigerant. However, you can check the air conditioner’s components, clear out dust and debris and change filters yourself.

Hire High-Quality, Reputable Professionals

Installing a central air conditioner is not usually a DIY-friendly job. While it’s certainly possible, the most homeowners lack the necessary qualifications. With that in mind, it’s a better idea to hire reputable professionals. Ask for references, certifications and insurance from the company before you hire them.

Choosing a Home Air Conditioner

If you’re shopping for an air conditioner, the sheer number of choices can be overwhelming.

An air conditioner is essentially a system of copper tubes filled with refrigerant. It also must have a condenser (where the refrigerant is compressed) and evaporator coils (where the refrigerant expands). When the condensed refrigerant expands in the evaporator coils, the temperature drops, like the nozzle on a can of compressed air. The unit pulls the heat in your home into that cold, then releases it outside.

The terms “air conditioner” or “AC” refer to anything that lowers the ambient air temperature. So we’ll also discuss a few devices that are commonly grouped with air conditioners, regardless of their underlying technology.

When selecting an air conditioner, the best choice for you will depend on several factors:

• Do you rent or own your home?
• How long do you expect to live there?
• How hot and humid does the local weather get?
• What’s the square footage of the space you need to cool?

Let’s look at several types of ACs and identify which is the best fit for you!

More homeowners are opting for solar panels to supplement or replace their grid-based energy needs. Whether you aspire to be energy neutral, prefer a back-up plan in the case of power failure or simply want to save a little on your monthly electric bill, the benefits of solar panels are numerous.

What Are Solar Panels?

Solar panels capture and convert the energy of sunlight to power your home. They can store excess energy in batteries or feed it back into the electrical grid, resulting in credits to your utility account. Most residential solar panels are roof-mounted, although they may also be set up in a field or other area that gets direct sunlight.

Panels come in an array of sizes and power levels. Most residential rooftop solar panels are about 3-1/2 feet by 5-1/2 feet, and produce about 250 to 300 watts per hour of sunlight. A 300-watt panel exposed to five hours of sunlight would produce 1,500 watts, or 1.5 kilowatts (kW). Solar panel systems are described by their total hourly production, so an array of ten 300-watt panels is known as 3 kW.

How Do Solar Panels Work?

Residential solar energy usually features an array of solar panels. These lightweight rectangles rest on a supporting rack, facing the optimal direction to capture the sun’s rays.

Solar panels are photovoltaic (photo meaning light, voltaic meaning electric). When light strikes the solar cells in the panel, it excites the electrons in the cells and generates direct current electricity (DC). An inverter transforms DC into alternating current (AC), allowing it to be used in the home.

Most residential systems lack a large enough battery system to keep the house running overnight, so your electric bill features a net power drawn/given to the energy grid. Known as “net metering,” this technology has made solar more financially sensible for homeowners.

Do Solar Panels Save Money?

In the long run, solar panels definitely save money for most homeowners. Like other investments such as Energy Star appliances, the question is how long it takes for the savings to surpass the added initial cost.

Most professionally-installed solar panel systems pay for themselves after about eight years, with DIY systems faster than that.

This timeline will due to a number of factors, including:

• The amount of sunlight in your area.
• The cost of electricity in your area.
• Energy tax or rebate incentives.
• Whether your home was pre-wired for solar.
• The condition of your roof prior to installation.

As you’ve probably noticed, many of those factors depend on the weather and policies where you live. Net metering isn’t available in all areas. An investment in solar will quickly pay off in a region with high electrical costs and net metering, even if it’s more overcast than other parts of the country.

Find out if solar power makes financial sense in your individual situation.

Pros and Cons of Solar Panels

Like any technology, solar panels come with pros and cons.

Pros

• Great for the environment.
• Relatively DIY friendly.
• Frequently comes with tax or utility incentives.
• Increases home value by about $14,000 according to a Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory study.

Cons

• High up-front cost.
• Makes roofing repairs and replacement more difficult.
• Becomes less effective as the panels age and technology improves.

That last point is an interesting one. If you love having the latest and greatest technology, know your solar panels will only be cutting edge for a year or two after you install them. After that, the latest models will likely be less obtrusive and more effective.

Solar Panel Installation

Consider these factors to determine if installing solar panels is the right choice for your home.

DIY vs. Pro Installation

The actual rack and solar panel installation is straightforward. Most DIYers who are comfortable working on a roof can handle the job. It’s possible to install panels solo. But given their size and the nature of roof work, it’s far easier with a helper or two.

Many areas require a licensed electrician to hook up the panels to your home. Even if it’s not technically required where you live, it’s wise to bring in an electrician.

If you opt to go with a solar installation pro, you’ll have expert eyes looking over your project from start to finish. You won’t need to worry about making a small mistake in your usage calculation, resulting in an underpowered array.

How Much Does a Solar Energy System Cost?

A residential solar system has three main components: the panels; the rack that supports them; and the wiring and power inverters that deliver power from the panels to your home.

There’s plenty of variation in each of these components (size and power of the panels, fixed or adjustable racks, string or micro-inverter), allowing you to find the perfect fit for your needs and budget. These components can all be bought separately, but are most often purchased as kits that include everything you need.

Installation costs vary, but for a two-story home with a 5 kW panel array, expect to pay between $14,000 and $20,000 for a professional installation (labor and materials). A DIY 5 kW kit costs between $7,000 to $10,000 for materials only. Those numbers don’t include tax or utility incentives.

Newly available tax credits from the Inflation Reduction Act, passed in the Fall of 2022, will cover 30 percent of the cost of installing a solar power system in your home.

Depending on your tax situation and local incentives, you may find the DIY savings smaller than it first appears.

Where to Buy?

For DIY kits, shop specialty providers online. Look for manufacturers that provide plenty of video instruction and support options. If you prefer to go with a pro, most home improvement stores have a solar installation option. Or you can go straight to the installation companies and ask about custom packages.

Solar Panel Maintenance

With no moving parts, the only real solar panel maintenance involves cleaning and inspections.

Cleaning

Naturally, any obstructions that block sunlight will lower the efficiency of the panels. Leaves or pine needles will often clear away from wind or rain in a matter of days. But if you get consistent debris or dirt accumulation, you should plan on the occasional cleaning. And if you live in a snow-heavy environment, you may need snow removal, although most homeowners simply wait for it to melt off.

A professional cleaning costs between $150 and $500, depending on the roof height, slope and number of panels. But if you’re comfortable with roof work, you can easily do it yourself. Whether done by you or a pro, cleaning is the perfect time to inspect the panels and roof.

Inspection

Solar panels should be inspected annually to ensure there’s no damage from falling limbs or hail, and that the roof remains intact beneath the panels. Chances are you won’t have an issue; solar panels are surprisingly durable. But if you do, you’re much better off knowing about it as soon as possible.

According to the Solar Energy Industries Association (SEIA), the total capacity of residential installations in the U.S. has more than doubled since 2016, while the average installation price per watt has decreased 27 percent in that same period.

If solar is on your radar but you’ve got questions about whether to take the plunge, read on for an overview of solar technology and whether it’s a sustainable strategy for the modern homeowner. You can also visit findsolar.com to find out if solar power makes financial sense in your individual situation.

What Are the Benefits of Solar?

It seems like every year brings new technological or environmental changes that accelerate the acceptance of residential solar energy. Industry experts such as Jeff Barnes of Modernize Home Services have witnessed a seismic shift in the industry.

Today, Barnes says, customers opting into solar have reasons “Ranging from ‘It’s the right thing to do,’ to ‘I want to get off the grid,’ or ‘I want to save money.’ ” The majority are drawn by these benefits in particular:

Environmentally Friendly

While there is a carbon cost in producing solar panels, renewable energy is the most environmentally friendly way to power your home. And if your utility company has the capability, you can even contribute to the grid, reducing your community’s use of fossil fuels.

Cost Savings

Properly sized and installed solar technology will pay for itself over time. Exactly how long depends on factors like what you pay for electricity, available green energy incentives, and the duration and intensity of sunshine throughout the year. Most residential solar installations after the initial cost pay for themselves over several years and become a net gain after that.

Dependability

A solar array can potentially provide critical functions such as refrigeration during blackouts, much in the same way a gas-powered generator can. But generators are expensive. The recent improvements in battery technology mean that your solar array can keep your power on all day and into the night. In fact, solar power helped Babcock Ranch—a town in Florida—experience minimal damage during Hurricane Ian.

Is Residential Solar Viable Throughout the U.S.?

The answer is a qualified yes.

Clearly, properties with more sun exposure and more room for panels will benefit more from solar, and the return on investment will vary by purchase price and utility savings. But you may be surprised to learn that three of the top 10 solar-producing states are in the Northeast — New Jersey, Massachusetts and New York).

Here are some of the key factors that determine whether solar is viable for you.

How Much Sun In Your Region

Surprisingly, this isn’t a major factor in determining solar panel effectiveness. Panels don’t function at night, but they do work on cloudy days. (Okay, solar panels technically do work at night, but the reflected light from the moon is such a tiny fraction of daylight that the captured energy is essentially zero.)

Local Incentives

We’ll look at this element in more depth below, but it’s worth mentioning that some cities and states have additional incentives to encourage homeowners to adopt solar technology.

Local Utility Prices and Policies

The higher the local energy prices, the more dramatic the savings from solar panels. A solar system will pay for itself far faster in an area with cloudy skies and high prices than in an area with sunny weather and low energy prices.

The other local policy that has a big impact on solar systems is net metering. With this technology, when a home has excess energy from solar panels, it can feed that excess back into the local power grid. The utility will actually pay the homeowner for consumed power. So excess energy isn’t wasted, and your investment will pay for itself faster.

If you don’t have net metering in your local market, consider investing in battery storage to provide backup coverage. “Batteries are becoming more and more sophisticated,” says Barnes.

How Effective Is Residential Solar?

It’s perfectly reasonable to wonder if a solar system on a residential roof can be truly energy efficient. The answer ultimately depends on your goals.

If you want to be completely off-grid, you’ll need a robust solar system in place. But if you simply want to supplement your energy consumption and reduce your electric bill, even a modest solar solution should work.

Residential Solar Tax Credits and Other Incentives

When determining if solar can be an effective option for your home, be sure to factor in any incentive plans offered by the government and utility companies. Normally offered as tax rebates or equipment subsidies, these programs can make a real difference in your budget.

Federal Tax Incentives

The most influential incentive program for solar has been the investment tax credit (ITC). Frequently called the “solar tax credit,” this program was created in 2005 and has proven so effective and popular it’s been consistently renewed. It allows you to claim a 26 percent credit of the solar system cost on your tax return through 2022. (In future years it will decrease, unless it’s extended again.)

State and Local Incentives

Besides the federal incentives, many states and municipalities offer additional incentives. Check the Database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency for programs that apply to you.

Local Utility Incentives

Local utility providers also have a strong motivation for encouraging homeowners to adapt solar power. Every home that embraces solar means less strain on the local utility grid, and that makes life easier for the utility providers. Many utilities offer buyback programs, rebates and education to bring more homeowners into the solar fold.

Can You DIY a Residential Solar Installation?

Simple solar panel installation is surprisingly straightforward. Depending on your local regulations, a licensed electrician may be required to make the connection between the panel array and your home. Tying into the grid is generally best left to an electrician anyway.

And yet, DIY models are extremely user-friendly. While you will likely want at least one assistant, it doesn’t take a huge crew to do most home solar installations.

Solar Power Costs

Installation

The exact cost of a solar installation will depend on the location, the panels, the slope of your roof, your existing roofing material and whether you’re using batteries or tying into the grid,

For an average 2,000-square-foot home with typical electrical usage, expect to pay $7,000 to $10,000 for panels. Installation will likely cost another $6,000 to $10,000, depending on the roof height, material and slope. If your installation is on the ground, the labor cost should drop significantly, though the materials costs may rise.

When planning a solar install, always take your roof into consideration. If it’s almost time to replace your roof, do it before installing the panels. Also check what impact the panel installation may have on your roof warranty. “You are likely altering the warranty of the shingles on your roof,” Barnes says.

Having the panels professionally installed may keep the warranty intact. Or you can replace it with the solar panel warranty.

Ongoing Costs

Solar systems have little ongoing/maintenance costs. Plan on an annual inspection of the panels, much like the annual inspection of your roof and gutters. Look for evidence of damage from animal nests or falling debris, or any loose wiring.

The easiest form of maintenance is to simply keep an eye on your utility bills to make sure the panels are performing as expected. If your energy costs creep up unexpectedly, there may be an issue with the solar system.

You may need to clean the panels from time to time, usually no more than once a year. This can be done with a squeegee and a manufacturer-approved cleaning solution.

Both the cleaning and inspection can be done on your own, or you can bring in a pro to make the whole process hassle-free. If you had your solar system installed for you, ask whether the company offers an inspection or maintenance plan.

Long-Term Predictions

Like many emerging technologies, it’s difficult to see the future for residential solar energy. The one certainty is that the technology will continue to improve and become more affordable. And as utility companies face increased scrutiny while the summers grow hotter and the winters get colder, they will offer increased incentives to go solar.

As a final thought, solar panels are also becoming smaller and less noticeable from the street. The days of bulky, unattractive panels are fading. It’s more common for frameless or low-profile panels to blend in with roof lines.

It’s only a matter of time before solar panels are no longer a novelty, but a standard feature as common as a heat pump or backyard pool.

Cut Overall Energy Costs

Ask your utility company for a free energy audit. A representative will come to your house and explain what you need to do to make your home more energy efficient.

You can save $100 per year by sealing leaks in windows and doors and insulating ducts — all of which your energy audit will highlight.

If you’re considering going off-grid with your cabin, keep reading and learn the ins and outs of off-grid power.

What Is Off-Grid Power?

Off-grid power is the harnessing of electricity independent of utilities, such as the electrical grid, through a renewable resource. The three main methods of off-grid power production are solar, wind, and micro-hydro. All convert their energy source to direct current electricity, unlike the alternating current provided by electrical grids worldwide.

Direct current electricity involves the energized electrons that create power flowing in only one consistent direction. Alternating current involves a constant switching of the electrons’ direction. In the U.S. this switch happens 60 times each second.

Benefits and Drawbacks of Off-Grid Power

Off-grid power has many benefits, including:

• Full energy independence, freeing you from tapping into the nearest grid and paying the power company each month for the privilege.
• A nearly non-existent carbon footprint, an attractive option for those concerned about their impact on the environment.
• A way to sidestep the fear by some folks that the grid infrastructure will eventually collapse, along with the economy.

Off-grid power system drawbacks include:

• A system completely independent of the grid requires expensive equipment, which the owner must buy and set up before switching on the lights. On a personal note: When my wife and I were building our cabin in the woods of Ontario, Canada, we initially looked at solar energy as our main source of electricity. Trouble was, even a simple system would have cost us nearly $30,000 and still not satisfied all our electrical needs.
• Off-grid power systems are location dependent. Depending on the type you choose, it won’t produce energy all or even most of the time, requiring a backup generator to pick up the slack.

Off-Grid Power System Options

Solar energy

Solar energy is harnessed using photovoltaic panels which convert sunlight to electricity.

Pros: Of the three main types of off-grid energy, solar is most practical, because it needs the fewest special conditions to work. All you need is a reasonably sunny location. Most places in the world qualify.

Cons: Solar provides the least electrical bang for your buck (setup cost per kilowatt hour of output) thanks to the high cost of equipment. It’s also a sporadic energy source. Factoring in cloudy days and nighttime, your system will harness the sun’s power less than half the time. That means relying on a backup generator and bank of batteries.

Wind energy

Wind energy turns the motion of air into electricity using a turbine and generator. Wind moves the blades of the turbine, causing the internal generator to spin and produce electricity, which is fed into the system demanding energy.

Pros: Setup costs are lower than solar, making wind the middle runner in initial outlay.

Cons: Many places aren’t windy enough for the system to work. Turbulence or “dirty wind” is also a problem. Even if your location is extremely windy, it won’t do you any good if it swirls aimlessly instead of blowing in a consistent direction. Wind turbines need large areas of open space to work properly. And like solar, wind energy is far from constant.

Micro-hydro energy

Micro-hydro energy works much like wind energy, using naturally occurring motion to spin a turbine, converting movement to electricity. The motion in this case is the flow of water.

Pros: Micro-hydro produces the most electricity per financial investment. It’s also a constant energy source, as long as the water source exists.

Cons: Lack of viable locations. Only a few places in the world offer water sources with enough volume and sufficient “head” (distance the water descends vertically over a given horizontal distance) to provide a meaningful amount of energy.

Here’s what you can do to maintain your home all year long.

Painting Your Home 

One of the most common home renovation projects you may consider within the first year of moving into your new space is painting your room or multiple rooms. We’ve included some tips and techniques on how to paint different parts of your house — including the living room, as well as girls’ and boys’ bedrooms — and also offer some ideas on which colors might set just the tone you’re looking for.

Window Treatments 

When you move into your new home, you’ll want just the right coverage on your windows to illuminate or darken your rooms while at the same, show off your own sense of style. Whether you’re looking for curtains for your living room or smart blinds for your bedroom, here are some inspirational ideas on how you can liven up your windows in an artful way.

Insulation  

No matter what season it is, it’s important for you to make sure that you have proper insulation in your house. Learn about the different insulations types for your attic and how to prevent frozen pipes during the cold season.

Landscaping  

What your home looks like on the outside is just as important as what it looks like on the inside. Whether you have a small or large yard, we have a variety of landscaping ideas that’ll shape the look and feel of your home. If you’re a gardener, you should consider soil testing the areas of your yard where you plan on growing plants and/or vegetables.

Upgrades and Replacements  

What are some DIY jobs you can tackle when an appliance or part of your home system breaks down? Learn some of the basics — from how to fix a doorbell to replacing a lightbulb when it goes out.

Maintenance 

Home maintenance doesn’t have to be a burden if you stay on top of problems when they arise. Whether you’re checking your sump pump, installing new smoke alarms, or caulking windows, there’s always something to do to ensure your home is healthy and up to code. Consider creating a home maintenance checklist for every season.

Annual

Year-round home maintenance is crucial if you don’t want to end up paying for a big repair. As a first-time buyer, we have a beginner’s guide to home maintenance so you’ll know the ins and outs on checking items like smoke alarms, water pressure and cleaning out your air conditioning units.

Electrical Safety Checks Video

Seasonal

Every season brings different home maintenance responsibilities. For winter maintenance, you obviously need to check if your heating systems are ready to go and that you don’t have any air leaking through your windows. For spring maintenance, make sure your home is free of pests — especially cockroaches — and take time to do exterior woodwork, roof inspections and to check your sprinkler systems. For summer maintenance, keep your cooling systems in check and schedule any major outdoor projects then. And last but not least, fall maintenance can involve anything from aerating the soil, cleaning your gutters to cleaning your chimney.

Monthly

Here are some helpful home maintenance tips that you should do every month to keep your systems in good standing.

Basic Projects for New Homeowners

If you’re new to the DIY world, we’ve got you covered! Learn how to start a garden, repair a broken pipe, fix an appliance or even use a leaf blower. Whether you’re doing something as common as painting a room or learning the more involved steps of fertilizing your lawn, tackling these types of projects will build your confidence and equip you to be a more informed and seasoned homeowner.

• How to Prune Your Garden: Spring is an ideal time for getting rid of the unwanted parts of your plants, but you can also prune during the early summer and late fall months. Think of yourself as a sculptor as you shape your plants, make room for new growth and keep your garden healthy.
• How to Repair Your Office Chair: Does your office chair need fixing? If your chair doesn’t bounce or has a hard time rolling, all you need is some basic tools and parts to rebuild it.

Basic Tools to Use

With all the projects on your list, you’re going to need some basic tools to get the job done right. If have plans to build a deck or some other substantial project, you’ll need an impact drill. Boring holes in wood or metal? Then you’ll want to purchase a drill press. For chores that help keep the exterior of your home clean and tidy, look into a pressure washer to clean off old paint and a leaf blower to maintain your landscaping.

More New Homeowner Tips and Information

Here are some additional tips and information that could help best prepare you to make the right decisions as a new homeowner — from checking your electrical and HVAC systems, compiling a list of contractors for needed repairs and creating an inventory of all your valuable assets you’ll be moving in with.

New Homeowner Products

There’s no shortage of things you could buy for your new house. It’s a list that could get long and very expensive pretty quickly. The key here is to focus in on what you need. Use this list for guidance and know what to avoid.

New Homeowner Resources 

If you have any questions on products that you’re considering purchasing for your home, these national home improvement chains are tried-and-true resources.

If you enjoyed this content, sign up for our new homeowner newsletter where we’ll guide you through the exciting journey of what to do before you purchase your dream house as well as give you expert tips and projects to help you make that new house a true home.