Not only does Cub Cadet offer excellent quality machines at great price points, but they also carry both electric and gas-powered mowers. Cub Cadet’s gas-powered riding mowers are powerful enough for those with large yards and fields. On the other hand, electric Cub Cadet Riding Mowers offer a battery-powered function, which means a quieter ride with zero emissions.

To decide on the best option, consider the area you’ll need to cover and the cost of gas versus electricity. Regardless of the version you choose, Cub Cadet mowers come with a best-in-class three-year, unlimited-hour warranty.

What is a Cub Cadet Riding Mower?

Cub Cadet is an American company that manufactures and sells outdoor power equipment, including riding mowers. Currently, there are three Cub Cadet Riding Mowers types: lawn and garden tractors, zero-turn mowers and electric riding mowers.

Lawn and garden tractors are the highest-powered versions of riding mowers that Cub Cadet offers. They’re best for larger areas and come with various attachments and accessories for year-round versatility and utility.

Zero-turn riding mowers allow users to get mowing jobs done 50% faster and are engineered to handle a range of terrains. They can cover up to five acres, with steering wheel options that make the user experience easier.

Electric riding mowers offer the same powerful performance with zero emissions, thanks to a powerful and convenient lithium-ion battery. The absence of a gas engine makes these machines some of the quietest on the market.

How to Use a Cub Cadet Riding Mower

Cub Cadet Riding Mowers come in gas and electric versions, meaning you will either need to charge the batteries or fill the tank with gas before using it for the first time. Electric model batteries are fully charged in four hours and last up to one and a half hours or up to two acres. On average, gas-powered Cub Cadet Riding Mowers use about three gallons of gas for every 2 hours of use.

As with any new machinery, it’s essential to  thoroughly read the user manual before use. To help you learn how to use your Cub Cadet riding mower, we recommend viewing the instructional videos and troubleshooting tips on the Cub Cadet website.

Here are the stats on some of their most popular models that will help you decide which machine is right for your job:

Cub Cadet Electric Mini Riding Mower

The Cub Cadet Electric Mini Riding Mower has a powerful 56-volt max lithium-ion battery that can be charged using a standard 110-Volt outlet. The battery lets you mow up to one acre (or for one hour) on a single charge without power fade, and it recharges in about four hours. As with all electric machines, there’s no need for oil, filer or spark plug changes (which can become costly).

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Cub Cadet Zero-Turn Riding Mower

Cub Cadet’s gas-powered Zero-Turn Riding Mower has a premium 23-horsepower twin-cylinder OHV engine, which boasts commercial-grade power to meet the toughest demands. The dual-hydrostatic transmissions allow for a quick 7 mph forward (or 3.5 mph reverse) ground speed that leaves your lawn with a professional-quality finish. Its 50-inch AeroForce fabricated deck delivers a signature cut with fewer clumps, finer clippings and increased evenness.

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Cub Cadet Enduro Lawn and Garden Tractor

The Cub Cadet Enduro Series Lawn and Garden Tractor has a gas-powered, 23-horsepower Kohler 7000 Series twin-cylinder engine. It features a 46-inch stamped, 12-gauge twin-blade deck with 12 cutting positions. It also has an optimized steering system for responsive handling and a 16-inch turn radius with a zero-turn feel.

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The Best Cub Cadet Riding Mower Reviews

Five-star reviewer Clark R. says assembly of his Cub Cadet XT1 Enduro Gas Powered Riding Lawn Mower was “straightforward and painless.”

“After checking all fluids, pins, etc, some gas and fired right up,” he writes. “What use to take over an hour with the old 30 inch cutter now takes 20 minutes with far less gas consumption.”

J. Blair is on his second Cub Cadet Riding Mower (a CC30E Electric Mini Riding Mower) and says, “Cub Cadet never has disappointed. This is my second cub cadet tractor, and I believe there isn’t a better one out there.”

When it comes to using the electric version, Maeck Dude says, “The Cub [CC30E Electric] mini is amazing. It mows like a champ, even the thick stuff. The mulcher works like a charm, and the electric motor is easy to clean and lasts over an hour. I would highly recommend it for towing stuff as well. It will not mow steep hills and tends to want to slide on a steep slope but it’s really a marvel I’m so impressed with the quality of the machine.”

Where to Buy a Cub Cadet Riding Mower

You can buy a Cub Cadet Riding Mower directly from the company’s webpage, or from Walmart.

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Unfortunately, painting quickly leaves walls and furniture susceptible to nicks and scratches. Luckily, touch-up paint pens save the day–and my peeling paint. One of the most popular options on the market, the Slobproof Paint Pen, is available on Amazon. This means I easily got my paws on it to test for the general population.

Best of all? Since I’m not an expert painter, my thoughts and recommendations are applicable to the average person. If I like this paint pen and think it’s simple to use, it probably is. Let’s get into it, shall we?

What is the Slobproof Touch-Up Paint Pen? 

The Slobproof Touch-Up Paint Pen is a pen-like receptacle for touching up dings and scratches around your home. The upper part of the pen is made of see-through plastic, which is where your desired paint is inserted using the included syringe. On the bottom, you’ll find a small tip where the paint comes out, which is similar to that of a paint brush. To disperse paint, twist the upper part of the pen.

Besides being able to easily touch-up paint on places like walls and ceilings, the Slobproof can also be used for general arts and crafts. Need to entertain your nephew for an hour? Hand him one of these (and a piece of blank paper). If you’re lucky, you may have a masterpiece to hang on the fridge.

Slobproof Touch-Up Paint Pen Features

Although Slobproof Touch-Up Paint Pens aren’t exactly feature-rich, like the latest smart home devices, these pens still have a lot going for them. For starters, you’re able to refill these. Yes, contrary to the belief of some reviewers, you can clean, dry and reuse each of these pens. To do so, simply turn the end piece until it pops out. You’ll also need to pull the brush out of the pen (and wash it) in order to prevent unwanted color mixing.

The pens come with a plastic cap, which is designed to fit easily over the brush. This is useful for those who want to keep their paint fresh for easy touch-ups. And since the brand claims the paint stays fresh for up to seven years when properly used, you can store these with your other painting supplies.

How We Tested It 

As someone who can’t bring items up the stairs without dinging them on the wall, I had countless opportunities to use the Slobproof Touch-Up Paint Pens. A headboard, chair rail, wall and even my ceiling were subject to my intense scrutiny and subsequent painting. In fact, I walked around my home for weeks with my eyes peeled for opportunities to use this handy painting tool. Truth be told, using this pen was so easy that I wanted to do each nook and cranny in my home, leaving no stone unpainted (er, unturned).

My excitement aside, here are the main pros and cons to be aware of prior to purchasing these touch-up pens:

Pros 

• Reasonably priced
• Keeps paint fresh for up to seven years
• Available in a two- or five-pack
• Simple to use
• Works with latex- and water-based paints
• Useable on a variety of surfaces
• Refillable

Cons 

• Small brush tip may not work for larger dings

FAQ 

How do I fill the touch-up paint pens with paint?

Luckily, you won’t have to have the talent of a circus Houdini to fill the pen. Simply use the included syringe to dispense your desired paint into the plastic end. (Remember to hang onto any leftover paint you used to paint your home for when touch-ups are needed!)

How long will my paint stay fresh inside the pen?

According to Slobproof, paint stays fresh inside of the pen for up to seven years. However, I cannot personally speak to that, as I’ve only used the pens for a few months.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say 

Still not sold on touch-up paint pens? You don’t have to take my word for it. Check out what other verified purchasers from Amazon really think.

“Highly recommend these touch-up pens,” writes five-star reviewer, Sarah Lynn. “Easy to use. I’ve been using them in my new construction home for around eight months now on the drywall and trim. With dogs and young children, these are a must-have to fix little spots. Love these pens.”

Amazon reviewer, Samantha W., writes, “I am IN LOVE with this product. It made touching up my house so easy before I listed it for sale. It was super easy to use and the paint blended seamlessly, it looks like there was absolutely never anything stuck into my walls. Love it, definitely a gem.”

“These are the coolest little things,” explains purchaser, L. Grimes. “The paint stays ‘fresh’ and the brush doesn’t dry out in between uses. This is literally the perfect paint pen for everyday touch-ups and scratches. You get two in a package, so you can fill them with two different paint colors to have on hand for the higher traffic rooms of the house.”

Final Verdict 

Whether you own or rent your home, the Slobproof Touch-Up Paint Pens are a staple I recommend. Keep them alongside your primer, roller and paint brushes. They’re about to become your handy best friend.

Where to Buy Slobproof Touch-Up Paint Pens

Budget-conscious individuals: It’s our time to shine. The Slobproof Touch-Up Paint Pens won’t leave a gaping hole in your pocket as many retailers sell them for around $20. Pick up a two pack from Amazon to fix your own paint dings and scrapes today.

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Best Overall Lawn Mower Cover

WeatherPRO Covers Lawn Mower Cover

Made with 100% marine-grade material, the waterproof WeatherPRO Covers lawn mower cover is suited for nearly every kind of push lawn mower. This heavy-duty option is durable to protect your machine from the elements, and the draw cord ensures full protection. The best part is that WeatherPRO covers offers a 100% one-year manufacturer guarantee, so you can feel confident in your purchase.

Pros

• Universal sizing for nearly all push lawn mowers
• Waterproof and provides UV protection
• 100% one-year manufacturer guarantee

Cons

• May need two people to put on

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If you’ve got a well-established lawn that’s starting to get a little yellow or tired, the problem might be thatch—a heavy mat of organic material that develops between the grass and the soil underneath. Thatch isn’t necessarily a bad thing! It can hold in water and nutrients, keeping grass healthy and resilient. But when the thatch gets too thick, it can hold in insects and weeds as well, and it can keep your grass from reaching moisture and nutrients in the soil below.

To check, dig a small test patch or take a core sample. If the thatch—the brown area between the green grass and the dirt—is more than 1/2-inch thick, you’ve got too much thatch. Dethatching your lawn can refresh your grass and get it ready for the hot, dry days of summer.

If the issue isn’t thick thatch, it’s still a good idea to clean debris from your lawn to give it a fresh start before summer arrives. That’s where a lawn sweeper comes in handy. The last of the fall leaves, twigs and sticks that fell in winter storms—and that thick mat of grass clippings from your first big mow of the season—might be too much for a bagging lawn mower to handle. A lawn sweeper replaces a rake, making quick work of cleaning up the grass and getting rid of things that might hamper good growth. You can also use some lawn sweepers to clean paved areas, like driveways or sidewalks.

What’s the Difference Between a Dethatcher and a Lawn Sweeper?

Sometimes dethatchers are called power rakes, but they’re not the same thing. Power rakes are heavy machinery used by professional landscapers, and can damage the grass if they’re not used correctly. A lawn dethatcher is a light-duty tool that’s easier to use. It acts like a rake with tines (sometimes called scarifiers) that get under the grass to pull out excess thatch.

There are three styles of dethatchers. Manual dethatchers look like big rakes that you pull across the grass. Tow-behind dethatchers can be pulled behind a riding lawn mower or yard tractor to clean up as you go along. Power dethatchers use a motor to drive the tines through your grass.

Lawn sweepers have rotating brushes with a catcher in the back for gathering debris. You push them across the lawn so the brushes can grab debris and toss it into the catcher. Like dethatchers, you can get lawn sweepers that are manual or motorized, or they can be pulled behind a riding mower or yard tractor. Lawn sweepers are similar to bagging lawn mowers, but some of them can handle heavier debris like small sticks, acorns, leaves and pine needles.

Pros and Cons of Dethatchers

Tow-behind or power dethatchers can be pricey, usually coming in around $130 to $150, and you need room to store them. If you’re willing to put in the work, a manual dethatcher like the True Temper dethatching rake is less than $100, and a fantastic investment for a healthier lawn.

Pros

• Wallet-friendly
• The 54-inch handle is made of sturdy hardwood with a cushioned end grip for comfort and control, and it’s long enough to be easy on your back
• The 15-inch rake head with curved steel tines is double-sided and designed for dethatching on one side and tilling on the other

Cons

• If you have a large yard and a lot of thatch, you may be better off renting a motorized dethatcher
• Dethatching manually can take several days

Pros and Cons of Lawn Sweepers

Tow-behind sweepers are usually in the $200 to $300 range, but they can be worth it if you have a large yard with big trees that shed a lot of acorns. An affordable option for smaller lawns is the Earthwise Push Lawn Sweeper.

Pros

• Sturdy and lightweight, so it’s easy to maneuver
• The 21-inch brush, with two brushes per section, is wide enough to cut down on the number of passes you’ll need to make
• Rake height is adjustable
• Significantly more affordable than a motorized or tow-behind sweeper
• Folds flat for easy storage

Cons

• It’s best for leaves and small debris; but can’t handle acorns, rocks or wet debris

How Long Do Dethatchers Last?

You shouldn’t dethatch your lawn every year. A little buildup of tchatch is good for your lawn, holding in nutrients of water. Since you only use a dethatcher once every three years or so, a good dethatcher should last for decades.

How Long Do Lawn Sweepers Last?

As long as you use it when the grass is dry and keep your lawn cut short enough not to produce large amounts of grass clippings, a lawn sweeper should give you years of use. To prevent wear and tear, you can also mulch grass clippings by mowing over them, so there’s less bulk for the lawn sweeper to handle.

The Bottom Line

If you have a large yard and lots of trees that drop nuts and debris, a lawn sweeper towed behind your riding lawn mower can save a lot of work. A push lawn sweeper is more affordable, and will probably be fine for smaller yards, particularly in areas where you don’t have to fight the squirrels to gather up acorns.

Dethatching depends on how much muscle you’re willing to put into it. You only need to dethatch a lawn once every two or three years, so it depends on whether you have space to store a tow-behind or motorized dethatcher. Before you buy, you can rent a dethatcher from many garden centers and home improvement stores, giving you a chance to find out if it’s something you’ll use, or which style is right for you.

Where to Buy a Dethatcher

Dethatchers are available at home improvement stores such as Ace Hardware or on Amazon. If you have never dethatched your lawn, this is a good year to start. Once you’re done, you won’t have to do it again for a couple of years!

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Where to Buy A Lawn Sweeper

Lawn sweepers are available at garden centers, at home improvement stores like Ace Hardware or on Walmart. If your garden shed is getting crowded, look for one that will fold flat easily.

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What is the Bucket Edge?

The Bucket Edge is a piece of heavy-duty aluminum that sits over your trim or other surfaces that you don’t want to get paint on. Unlike masking tape, it takes seconds—not minutes—to set up, and there’s zero risk of paint seeping through.

You can also use this painting tool to cut and mark straight lines, remove bubbles from wallpaper and scrape ceilings. That’s not all: it replaces your dustpan and is even useable as a funnel in a pinch.

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How to Use the Bucket Edge

Simply place the Bucket Edge over the area you’re trying to protect and start painting. It comes in three sizes (12, 20, and 40 inches), so there’s no job too big or too small. The three sizes nest together for easy storage.

To use it as a dustpan, turn it upside down and sweep all the debris onto the flat surface. Pick it up and use the funneled ends to ensure every last bit goes into your trash bag—not all over your floors.

The Best Bucket Edge Reviews

Five-star reviewer Jimmy has been a house painter since the 1990s, and writes that this is one of the most useful tools in his arsenal. “I absolutely hated painting before I found this tool. Why? I hate taping off a room and it cuts into my labor costs…These are well put together, and the edges are not flimsy. I have 2 more sets on the way!”

“The Bucket Edge tools are awesome! I bought them after we purchased a new home,” reviewer Jennifer Mccabe explained. “They worked great to paint the entire home. No doubt they saved us tons of time not having to tape off nearly as much and we didn’t need to tarp off floors. My husband loves the Bucket Edge and will continue to use them in his construction and remodeling business.”

“This tool has been amazing,” customer Justin remarks. “I will never paint without them and definitely recommend this product. Saves a tremendous amount of time as well as money spent on tape. It has been useful on every job so far which is impressive.”

Where to Buy the Bucket Edge

There are three different sized available at Walmart. The 12-inch is great for small projects, like painting furniture or window sashes. The 40-inch is ideal for large jobs. And if you’re a professional—or have a lot of DIY painting projects in your future—it’s worth investing in the Bucket Edge three-piece set that includes 12-, 20- and 40-inch models. If you ask us, it’s worth the price to never worry about paint dripping on our trim.

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Best Overall

Jet Vortex Cone Dust Collector

The Jet Vortex Cone is quite popular, as evidenced by its stellar dust collection reviews. But what gives it an edge over the others? A two-horsepower motor, and vortex cone technology that guarantees continuous, systematic air movement. This feature allows for better chip separation, less clogging of the filter and increased packing efficiency of the collector bag.

It takes a single-stage design approach, adding the separation efficiency of a two-stage dust collection system while still keeping the operation quiet. This machine also features a fully enclosed, fan-cooled two-horsepower motor with continuous duty, meaning there’s more than enough horsepower to make sure you’re getting efficient air movement.

The Jet Vortex boasts a collection capacity of 5.3 cubic feet, and the 1,200 cfm (cubic feet per minute) stands up to its competitors. Collection bags have a sewn-in snap ring for fast and easy installation and removal. Its dual four-inch dust ports allow you to connect two machines at the same time—perfect for any workshop.

Pros

• Fan-cooled motor enables continuous usage
• Quick connect bag system
• Strong steel construction
• Four swivel casters

Cons

• Bulky
• On the heavier side

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Sherwin-Williams’s Outlook

Sherwin-Williams CEO John G. Morikis announced during a company earnings call in late January the company expects a “very meaningful deceleration of demand” for their paint products.

“We will not be immune from what we expect to be a very challenging demand environment in 2023,” Morikis said. “Visibility beyond our first half of the year is limited. On the architectural side, U.S. housing will be under significant pressure this year. Slowing existing home sales and continued high inflation also will be headwinds.

“On the industrial side, we have already seen a slowdown in Europe, and the same is beginning to appear in the U.S. across several sectors. In China, COVID remains a factor and the trajectory of economic recovery is difficult to map.”

Morikis has been the CEO of the Cleveland-based company since 2016.

Sherwin-Williams’ stock price plummeted nearly nine percent after the company’s earnings reports, from $247.09 a share to $225.06 by the end of the day. It has since rebounded roughly five percent and was trading at $235.51 when the markets closed on Feb. 8.

According to Natalie Lung of Yahoo, existing home sales have declined year-over-over for 16 consecutive months. Coupled with increased mortgage rates, new residential volume “could decline 10%-20% this year,” she writes.

“(Sherwin-Williams) is focusing on investing, adding stores and growing the market share of its residential repaint business — its largest and fastest growing segment, which includes paints and coatings for inside and outside the home — saying that factors such as home-price appreciation and aging housing stock can help offset the impact from slowing existing home sales.”

Shifting Housing Market

Surging mortgage rates hit record lows in 2021 but increased dramatically in a span of 12 months.

Interest rate increases have major ramifications on mortgage payments. A 30-year fixed-rate loan at three percent on a $400,000 home with a 20 percent down payment, or $80,000, would cost roughly $1,350 per month for principal and interest. A six percent loan for that same home would cost $1,900 a month. That’s a difference of $550 a month.

Bankrate reported December 2022 was the 11th consecutive month with declining home sales. The median home price in the U.S. reached a record high $413,800 in June, but has since retreated to $366,900, according to Bankrate.

Last week, National Association of Home Builders chief economist Rob Dietz said at a press briefing at the International Builders’ Show in Las Vegas that a “recession is underway” for home builders, according to Construction Dive.

“We’ve never had a period where home prices have declined and there has not been a recession,” Dietz was quoted as saying. “I think the rest of the economy will feel it in 2023 via slowing economic output and rising job losses.”

Before You Start

Adding an egress window is a big job, and it’s important to plan your project to meet the building requirements in your location. Here are the steps I took before starting to excavate:

Apply for a permit

This process could take a few weeks. My city required detailed plans of the well, the dimensions of the window and rough opening, the size of the header and a drawing of the property, including the house.

Engineered drawing

The retaining walls that made up our well were tall enough to require an engineer’s approval. I sent my plans to a local engineer who gave me a new drawing with a stamp of approval to include with my permit ­application. If you buy a manufactured well, this step is likely unnecessary, but your city’s building department makes the final call.

Call the digging hotline

When you’re digging, even just a few inches, call to have underground utilities located and marked.

Digging is dangerous if you don’t know where the utilities are. If you skip this step and hit a gas, water, or power line underground, you’ll risk the lives of yourself and others, and you’ll be on the hook for the costly repairs. So be sure to call 811 before your project. The process varies by state, so call a few days ahead of your project.

Requirements for Egress Windows

Here are the minimum requirements identified by the building code: 

• The opening needs to be 5.7 square feet.
• The minimum width is 20 inches.
• The minimum height is 24 inches. 
• The well needs to provide a clear space of 3-ft. x 3-ft. when the window is open.
• From the inside, the sill height cannot exceed 44 inches

Dig the Window Well

Following my plans, I drew the window well location with marking paint. I rented a mini excavator to make the ­digging much easier. It was well worth the $450 to avoid hand ­digging.

Have a plan for the dirt you’re removing; it will be more than you anticipate. We took the nearly 10 cubic yards of dirt to a nearby compost site.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/the-eleven-percent-meet-kat-christie-residential-handyperson/ Tue, 20 Dec 2022 18:05:01 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=499252 This FH series introduces readers to a few of the women who make up 11 percent of the construction workforce in the U.S., spotlighting stories of their careers in the field. Know someone we should feature? Email us here.

Eight years ago, Kat Christie took her childhood love of tinkering pro, starting as an espresso machine technician. That ignited her curiosity and desire to delve into home repair. In 2017, she earned a Handyman Certificate Course from York College in Queens, New York, a major step toward her dream of running her own handywoman business.

Christie launched She Fixed That in 2019, and went full-time the following year at the start of the pandemic. Since people were home, mulling unfinished projects and ordering home office necessities, her business took off. “Patching a small hole in a wall, furniture assembly, hanging TVs and gallery walls, building pantries and library walls — no day is the same,” Christie says.

In 2021 she moved from New Jersey to Birmingham, Alabama and quickly re-established her business in the new location. “Up north or down south, people want to hire women. Women want to hire women,” she says. “It’s a niche that I think exists everywhere.”

We asked Christie for her thoughts on the state of the residential handyperson business.

Q: How did you get into fixing things?

A: I got a philosophy degree, so naturally, here we are, right? Ha! Jokes aside, I’ve always been a tinkerer. As a kid, I stole my brother’s Legos, K’Nex and Lincoln Logs. I took apart the old VCR to see how it worked, and loved building forts with pillows, sticks, boxes — anything really.

Later in life, while working in the coffee industry, our units would occasionally break down, and the company dispatched a tech. I loved when this one tech, Jay, came out. I’d pick his brain, curious about how the machine’s internal components worked. He was patient, knowledgeable and cool as hell. I wanted to be him.

Fast forward some years, and I landed a job as a tech repairing those same coffee machines. That was one of the best jobs I’ve had— a road warrior, fixing things and keeping America caffeinated. I felt like a superhero and still reminisce about it.

The thing of it is, once you know how a boiler, valve, flow meter and switch all work, it’s transferable to everything: cars, washing machines, water heaters and so on.

Q: What are some of your favorite fix-it jobs?

A: My heart is in mechanical and carpentry. Given my prior experience, I especially enjoy small-appliance repair.

I love hunting for a service manual with an exploded-parts diagram tucked away in an internet corner and sifting through troubleshooting forums online to find the fix. In this disposable culture we live in, making something old work again, like rewiring a lamp or dissecting an antique mortise lock, is exceptionally satisfying.

Carpentry is the inverse — I build rather than take apart. But issues always arise. Not as dramatic as HGTV, but something to troubleshoot nonetheless. I love to cope trim. There’s nothing more satisfying than an invisible joint!

My absolute favorite fix-it job isn’t something specific. It’s when a client has had to work around/settle with a seemingly minor issue, be it a stuck drawer, loose knob, door that doesn’t latch right, broken hinge, you name it. When the fix brings ease back into their lives, I’ve done my job.

Q: Tell us about a project that stood out.

A: One carpentry project I’m proud of is a gentleman’s closet in a historic home here in Birmingham. The challenge was to make a fraternal twin of an existing bookcase. I had to match the trim profiles and shape by milling stock lumber and making the case seamless, which meant scribing the trimwork to the wavy plaster walls.

There was trial and error, as well as tears, joy and cuss words, but it turned out beautifully. Now, when the client has friends over, he plays the game “Guess Which One Is Original?” People cannot tell, and that’s the win for me. The project stretched my skills, and I grew as a result.

Q: Who is your main clientele?

A: Mostly women. Moms, single women, divorcees, retirees and LGBTQ folks. As a member of the gay community, my clients feel at ease with me.

Q: How has being a woman helped your business?

A: People hire me because I’m a woman. I’m told I’m more approachable. And women, specifically, aren’t afraid to ask questions, knowing I’ll answer respectfully, without judgement.

And if I don’t know the answer, I’m honest about it, and instead get back with it. This fosters transparency and trust, which I’ll do everything in my power to protect, project and respect. I’ve had first-time clients who’ve left me alone in the house and insisted I make “myself at home.”

I should also note that I’ve not experienced direct discrimination on account of my gender. Sure, I get stared at a lot, and questioned when I walk into the home center in my work clothes. But I often get high-fives or accolades like, “Yeah, girl. You get it.”

Q: What’s your impression of gender diversity in the trades?

A: I’m seeing more women who are interested in the trades acting on that interest. When I was a field technician, female clients were taken aback by me. They’d say, “Oh, my gosh, I didn’t even know that they hired women! I would love to do something like that.” If my company was hiring, I’d direct them to apply.

I also see more female lube techs, field techs, painters, etc. I interact with female DIYers through Instagram, helping them through projects, answering questions and directing them to resources.

Today, there are entire communities on social media for handywomen, female DIYers, tradeswomen, trans-handy people, all of it. I’ve noticed that language has changed, too. People are more mindful of not saying a default “he” when referring to a tradesperson. That’s big.

Q: What changes do you hope are on the horizon?

A: I would love to see more brands recognize that women are a real and serious demographic as it relates to workwear and tools. It’s starting, but it’s not quite there yet. I still shop in the men’s section for workwear, though women’s items from brands like Duluth, Carhartt and Dovetail scatter my closet.

How about Mother’s Day tool deals? And not that generic pink tool set. I’d like to see tool companies consider women in their ergonomics. Women do the research and want the best or right tool for the job. And grip, weight and power are just as important to them.

I want little girls to know that being a tradesperson is a career path they can choose. This starts in children’s books and in marketing departments.

I’d love to get to a point where I can hire a team of women. My big dream is to teach classes and workshops for women and LGBTQ people, to create a safe space to empower, inspire, build knowledge and ask questions.

Q: Any advice for how people can generally make themselves more handy?

A: If in your immediate circle you don’t have a handy friend to lean on, find other people willing to share knowledge. Cue the internet! YouTube is a phenomenal resource, as are sites like the Family Handyman. There are tons of social media accounts and Facebook groups out there, whole communities of people interested in the same things you are.

If you’re a paper person, Black+Decker has a great book, The Complete Photo Guide To Home Repair. It’s a fabulous springboard. For a more contractor-centric in-depth resource, pick up Renovation, by Litchfield and Harley.

Q: What are your pro-specific tools?

A: My favorite screwdriver is my Klein 11-in-1. In a pinch, I’ll even pop the bit in my drill. Then my have a Makita subcompact drill and driver set. They’re durable, powerful, and the weight balance is fabulous. Having small hand grips is important and these feel great.

My Husky 15-in-1 painter’s tool is vital. From prying off trim to opening paint cans and boxes to scouring caulk and scraping stickers, I love it. It even comes with a little flat-head screwdriver piece to remove screws on switch plates.

This little 90-degree ratcheting pocket screwdriver has saved me in tight spots. I use it a ton when assembling furniture with delicate plastic bits, where a drill is too much power, even with the torque adjusted. The ratcheting feature also reduces hand fatigue.

There’s also my Kat paw (see what I did there?), aka pry bar. It’s very versatile and I can get leverage in tight spots. Finally, my nail/staple puller is a godsend. The leverage I can get with this is remarkable, and the head design leaves little damage to the workpiece.

Kat Christie Bio

Kat Christie is the owner of She Fixed That handywoman services, with eight years of experience repairing things for a living.

She started as a field tech repairing coffee equipment and was soon promoted to lead technician, then regional manager. She earned a Handyman Certificate from York College, and still pours over manuals and videos to deepen her knowledge and experience.

While her primary focus is mechanical repair and finish/trim carpentry, Christie genuinely believes no job is too small if it makes a difference in a person’s life. She strives to provide transparent, trustworthy and professional services to her clients and dreams of creating a safe and empowering educational space for women and LGBTQ folks.

Born and raised in the New York metropolitan area, Christie currently lives and works with her partner out of a beautiful historic home in Birmingham, Alabama, which keeps them both busy! She is a dog momma and aspiring knitter, and enjoys the outdoors, cooking and a good dad joke.

Writer Karuna Eberl Bio

Karuna Eberl is a regular contributor to FamilyHandyman.com. She spent the last 25 years as a freelance journalist and filmmaker, telling stories of people, nature, travel, science and history. Eberl has won numerous awards for her writing, her Florida Keys Travel Guide and her documentary The Guerrero Project.

What Is a Hammertooth Hammer?

A hammertooth hammer is mostly like a regular hammer, but comes with a small tooth that extends out from the handle a couple of inches below the claw. The primary producer of hammertooth hammers is Estwing, which offers 22- and 24-ounce varieties, as well as milled or smooth faces.

What Is a Hammertooth Hammer Used For?

Hammertooth hammers are best used for straightening 2x lumber while framing. The distance between the claw and the tooth is made to snugly cradle the edge of the lumber, allowing contractors to easily align studs, joists and trusses against their plates and rim joists.

Better yet, the hammertooth hammer can be used one-handed while the handyman holds a nail gun in their other hand to attach the 2xs. To better visualize the hammertooth hammer in action, check out this official promotional video from Estwing.

Helpful Framing Tips to Consider When Using a Hammertooth Hammer

Now that you’re armed with the proper equipment, it’s time to start framing! Before you put on your safety goggles, familiarize yourself with some common mistakes to avoid and helpful best practices.

Here are a few tips to keep in mind while framing:

• Use square-edged lumber instead of round-edged. Sharp edges lead to more accurate lines and measurements.
• Mark the top-facing wide edge of the plates, not just the side-facing edge. This will help you align your studs better since you won’t have to crane your head at an angle to match the marks.
• Snap long lines in two steps. Have a buddy hold a long chalk line in the middle and snap each half of the line separately. This will ensure the straightest line over a long distance.
• When framing walls, nail the tie plate to the top plate over the studs only. This way, electricians and plumbers won’t struggle with any nails in their way as they cut holes.

Warm, Earthy Green

There are plenty of ways to use trendy greens that will work for your kitchen. You won’t go wrong with almost any shade of green, although sage-ier hues are trending hottest at the moment. Everything from rich, dark hunter green to light, peppy mint will look fresh and new.

Green could show up as wall paint or in a wall covering pattern. It can really take center stage as cabinetry paint, or even in countertops like green Rainforest granite.

Ally Childress loves to learn. In her 20s, she had a blast earning her degree in English literature. Twenty years later, she equally enjoyed going back to school to study electricity.

Between those two major education stints, she worked in an entirely different field: science. She monitored water quality for a government agency, then tested food for pathogens at a multinational food safety company.

After a decade, she didn’t see herself moving up since her degree didn’t match her position. She decided instead to pursue a career in the trades, where she could use her more technical inclinations, and started researching possibilities. “Electrician just jumped out at me, so I signed up,” she says.

Childress completed the five-year International Brotherhood of Electrical Workers (IBEW) apprenticeship program in Minnesota in 2020. The program features one day of school and four days of work weekly, a model she loved.

“I learned that I’m a bit of a code nerd,” she says. “There are rules that must be followed to make electricity safe for the people using it, and they can be pretty dense and difficult to parse. Learning the code turned out to be my favorite part of the process.”

After completing her apprenticeship she became a journeyworker, which Childress truly enjoys. But in the summer of 2021, an nagging ankle injury forced her off the jobsite. She’s currently healing in Texas, where she and her wife recently moved to be closer to family.

We caught up with Childress for her thoughts on the state of the electric industry.

Q: Which projects stand out to you?

A: My first job was the U.S. Bank Stadium in Minneapolis, which I worked on for a year. The scale was enormous, with a couple hundred electricians. I got paired with this abrasive foreman who was about to retire. He’d spit tobacco and yell at everybody, but he ended up being great. I stuck with him and learned so much.

First I worked on the major switchgear, which controls the big power coming in, and then up on the catwalk for nine months, which is like 300 feet in the air. I felt very privileged to start on such a monumental project. It was so fun. And now to watch it on TV and know I helped build that, that’s just the neatest feeling in the world.

Q: What changes have you seen in the electric field?

A: I’ve only been in the trades about seven years, so it’s not like I have a vast opinion. But even in that time I’ve seen a major change in how the folks in charge relate to the workers on their crews.

For example, my foreman on the U.S. Bank Stadium’s approach was to yell at people, whereas my other bosses have taken a more collaborate approach. This generational shift from old school to the younger generations is completely obvious to me.

Q: Moving forward, what changes do you hope to see?

A: It’s nice to see more women working as foreman in the field. But I would also like to see more women in company hierarchies, in the boardrooms. Because any time there’s diversity in leadership, you’re going to see different perspectives come down the chain.

I would also like to see more outreach to young women. The trades are something that need to be un-stigmatized. College is wonderful, but a lot of kids can benefit from trade school and apprenticeships, too. They don’t need to take on $100,000 of debt to make a really good living as an electrician.

Q: Any pros or cons to being a woman in the electric trade?

A: I don’t know if it’s because I’m older or because I tend to defuse situations, but I haven’t had a whole lot of consternation about being a woman in the trades.

There are a few jerks, where I’ve thought, “I can’t believe he just said that sexist nonsense.” But I’ve found that if I’m good at my job and work hard, most men are amenable to having me around. I can’t say enough positive things about the guys I’ve worked with.

One observation I’ve had is that people have their eyes on women, because we can be a novelty. If you make up only 10 percent of the jobsite, you stand out, good or bad. And if you’re the one woman on the site, you become all of the women on the site. That makes you hyperconscious of yourself, because if you stand out in a bad way, you’re going to give all women a bad name.

That being said, companies have really made strides in being welcoming. There’s a huge untapped potential of women, and I think companies are understanding that.

Q: How can bosses and coworkers be more inclusive?

A: I want to be thought of as a good electrician, not a good woman electrician. I’ve had a few coworkers say stuff like, “You’re really good at this for a girl.” Guys, that’s not a compliment.

Q: Any advice for young women looking to get into electricity or other trades?

A: Besides going through a union apprenticeship program, just keep your mind open. A lot of young women don’t consider the trades because they’ve been kind of stigmatized, but they’re a great option.

The trades are filled with smart, motivated people who have it going on. They’re happy, make a great living, take vacations and have excellent health care. Then, more practically, show up on time. Don’t look at your phone. Ask questions, but also listen and be observant. And wear your hair up so it’s not a safety issue.

Q: Any advice for staying healthy while working such a physical job?

A: Don’t ignore pain. I wouldn’t have been sidelined for nearly a year if I had gotten my ankle looked at first, rather than worked in pain for months.

I don’t like to complain, or let people down by making them pick up the slack for me not being there, but now I realize it’s okay to take time off. We have great health care. Go to the doctor. Take time to rest your body. You have to keep yourself healthy or you won’t be able to do it very long, because it’s an extremely labor-intensive job.

Q: What are your pro-specific tools?

A: First and foremost, a non-contact voltage tester to make sure circuits are dead before working on them. Fluke is a great brand. Then, obviously, wire strippers, because you use them a thousand times a day. I like Ideal Reflex Super-T because they’re comfortable and they always work.

You’ll never see anybody without lineman’s pliers, which we call Kleins after the brand name. They’re for cutting, twisting, pulling and straightening wire, plus hammering, prying, cutting screws, etc.

You also need a screwdriver. Klein makes the best six-inch square shank slotted one. It’s incredibly sturdy and the square shank means you can use a wrench on it to gain torque.

I always have a pair of tongue-and-groove pliers, commonly called channel-locks because the best and most ubiquitous brand is Channel Lock. Small-sized ones, which we call baby channel locks, are handy to carry around, give plenty of torque and are good for tightening locknuts in small boxes.

Finally, you can’t put up pipe, panels or boxes without a torpedo level, or you’ll look like a hack and nothing will fit. It’s also a must for bending pipe, drawing straight lines and measuring slope.

Ally Childress Bio

After two fulfilling careers in the science industry, Ally Childress joined the International Brotherhood of Electrical Workers as a first-year apprentice. She’s now a journeyworker and freelance writer whose work appears frequently on FamilyHandyman.com. Childress grew up in Oklahoma and lives near family in Texas but calls Minnesota home. She and her spouse hope to one day get out of the I-35 corridor.

Writer Karuna Eberl Bio

Karuna Eberl is a regular contributor to FamilyHandyman.com. She’s spent the last 25 years as a freelance journalist and filmmaker, telling stories of people, nature, travel, science and history. Eberl has won numerous awards for her writing, her Florida Keys Travel Guide and her documentary The Guerrero Project.

I spoke to her retired plumber cousin over the phone, and he diagnosed the problem as a clog in the floor drain pipe rather than something more serious. But before she called another plumber for a quick $100+ cleanout, I brought over my recently acquired Cobra Tools Pistol-Grip Power Drum Auger to see if I could break up the clog myself.

What is the Cobra Tools Pistol-Grip Power Drum Auger?

How We Tested It

I bought the Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger because I was sick of standing in ankle-deep water standing in my aging bathtub as I showered. A week later I learned of my mother’s basement floor drain predicament, giving me two worthy tests just days apart.

How it Works

Unclogging drains is a messy job. But with the Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger, I was done in a matter of minutes.

In both cases I attached my cordless drill to the drum auger and plunged the rotary tip of the cable into the depth of the pipe. I didn’t use chemicals at all, so I felt safe operating the drum auger with just some thin rubber gloves and grungy work clothes.

Once I placed the Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger cable down the pipe, I pushed it by hand until I felt resistance from a bend in the pipe or the mass clogging it. With about 10 inches of the cable sticking out of the drain, I kept downward pressure on the pistol grip and slowly feathered the trigger of my cordless drill. This ensured the sharp pointed end of the tip burrowed into the obstruction, or made its way around the bend.

For a clog far down the pipe, the quick lever cable locking switch comes in really handy, since it needs to lock at each obstacle encountered.

Once I found and breached the clog, the backed-up water slowly drained. I learned years ago not to pull out the auger too soon. Instead, I made a couple of extra turns with my drill to ensure it locked into the obstruction. Then pulled the drum auger cable back. This method helps you bring all the debris to the surface. If you don’t, you may find yourself repeating this process a few weeks later.

Ease of Use

Value

Just having a plumber show up at your residence will run you well over a hundred bucks. With the Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger costing less than $40, I can’t imagine why you wouldn’t keep a drum auger on hand to try to break through a stubborn clog. If the clog is too substantial, then call in the professionals.

Pros

• Clears pipes up to three inches in diameter;
• Quick lever cable lock;
• Easy to use;
• Inexpensive;
• Works with any drill.

Cons

• Unclogging drains is a messy task.

Q&As

Q: Is the Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger compatible with any drill?

A: Yes, as long as it features an adjustable chuck.

Q: Can you use this to unclog a toilet?

A: No. This cable may scratch the porcelain. The Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger is best for smaller diameter pipes like sinks, tubs and shower drains.

Final Verdict

Where to Buy

The Cobra Tools Pistol-Grip Power Drum Auger is available at Lowe’s or Ace Hardware.

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Here are the tools Rogosienski finds indispensable on her path to becoming an electrician.

Klein Tools Side-Cutter Lineman’s Pliers

Every electrician needs a quality pair of lineman’s pliers. Rogosienski likes this pair from Klein Tools because they pull and cut as well as crimp terminals onto wires. Plus, she says their “heavy-duty grip is perfect for non-slip jobs, especially when your hands start to sweat.”

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Multimeter Electrical Test Kit

Knowing which wires carry an electrical charge and which don’t is a huge safety concern for electricians. Rogosienski puts her faith in this multimeter electrical test kit. It features a built-in flashlight so she can accurately see which wires are hot even in the most dimly-lit junction boxes.

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Channellock Pliers

Rogosienski’s favorite pair of pliers is this 9-1/2-in. set from Channellock. It’s not the flashiest thing in a toolbox, but its comfortable grip and non-slip teeth make it a reliable choice for many applications.

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Cougar Paws Performer

Even electricians work on roofs sometimes. When Rogosienski has to climb shingles, she wears Cougar Paws Performer boots. They’re made with a patent pending grip technology that keeps you firm-footed while absorbing the heat from asphalt rooftops.

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Company Cam

Modern electricians require modern tools. For Rogosienski, that includes the smartphone app Company Cam. The app lets her document jobsites, make reports and keep her work organized. She also finds her iPhone a go-to tool to communicate more effectively with clients.

“My iPhone13 ProMax camera has such a great zoom lens that I can use it to show cracks in shingles to homeowners, without them having to go on the roof,” said Rogosienski.

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As the daughter of a stonemason, Schannon Yodice grew up with tools in hand, helping her dad on projects. Although she enjoyed it, when it came time to choose a career, she opted for college. Then she spent the next decade working as an accountant.

“I hated it,” she says. “Working behind a computer was completely opposite to my personality. I like being physical and doing things, and accounting was sitting in this gray cubicle all day. I felt like I was trapped all the time.”

So in 2017, she and her fiancé decided to start a general contracting business. They soon learned it wasn’t easy to find reliable skilled workers and subcontractors. They abhorred sub-par work, so they started learning construction skills as needed to complete jobs.

They found a mentor through this process, a master tile setter who agreed to teach them his trade before retiring and handing them his client list. Yodice and her fiancé decided to focus on their tile business full-time.

“I’d be lying if I said it was easy,” Yodice says. “Tile is definitely challenging. But I also have physical aptitude with certain things, and so it came somewhat naturally.

“The best part about it is every job is different. You never get bored. Your skills are always growing and improving.”

Yodice started a social media page to share her learning journey. As That Tile Chick, she shares challenges, triumphs and tricks of the trade with hundreds of thousands of followers. She encourages others to grow and succeed.

We asked Yodice for her thoughts on the state of the tile industry.

Q: How did you get into social media, and how has it affected your business?

A: I started back in 2020 to share some renovations my fiancé and I were doing to our house, and it just grew from there. It’s fun, but it’s like a full-blown addition to my business, and I’m busy to the point where it’s hard to manage. It’s also weird because you never think the internet world is going to collide with the real world, but it has for me on almost every job.

It’s hard to remain a stone-faced professional in front of clients when they tell me they watch me on Instagram. I’ll go through my spiel and email them an estimate, and they’re like, “No, it’s fine. I follow you.” It’s the most bizarre thing.

Q: Have you faced challenges working in a male-dominated trade?

A: It’s just me and my fiancé, so the only males I encounter are homeowners, and nobody has any negativity. But there’s a lot of online bullying by grown men within my industry, mainly because of the way I look. A lot of people don’t take me seriously because I’m a female. It’s tough.

I’m lucky it’s just online because if I don’t like it, I’m just not going to look at it. It used to really bother me, but I’m past it because there are so many people who are positive and uplifting to me. I couldn’t imagine if I had to go to a jobsite, though. It would ruin everything for me, having to show up and feel that way. I’m very grateful that I don’t have to deal with that.

Q: Any other surprising byproducts of internet fame?

A: I get criticized by people who think I’m making the trade irrelevant by helping people learn how to do things. But it’s important to teach people. There’s a reason why books are written and why Einstein is still famous and people quote him, because unless the information gets passed on, it gets lost.

In my industry, leaders are running around with their hair on fire because there’s nobody to pick up the trade when they retire. Well, where do you think that came from? It came from them never wanting to share why it’s great to be in the industry.

They set their tile for forty years and didn’t even want to be bothered with an apprentice. Nobody wanted to work for them because they’re miserable and didn’t want to share their knowledge. It makes no sense to me.

Q: Which projects stand out to you?

A: We did an exterior patio project, which tested my knowledge and skills in many ways.

First, just being outside was challenging, because we didn’t have a flat substrate to start. And our dirt is clay, so it expands and contracts a lot. Then the client wanted a patterned tile, with three different colors in a hex shape, so all of the pieces were different sizes.

The project was very technical and it gave me a cool insight into all of the different problems you can solve. It was like an art piece. It came out beautifully and I actually got recognized in an industry magazine, which was really awesome.

Q: What changes do you hope to see in the industry?

A: I hope more people get interested in picking up a trade, or just learning how to do physical things, whether that’s fixing a car or understanding different systems in their home. Even if they don’t want to do it full time, it’s empowering to know how to use a tool and be able to say, “I’m going to fix this.”

I would also really like to see a newer generation of tradespeople, men and women, come in and uplift the trades to show that we’re educated people. We’re not the bottom of the barrel; we’re intelligent and provide quality work.

Q: Any advice for young women looking to get into tile or other trades?

A: Get involved. There are industry organizations looking for young people just like you. They’re willing to extend their hands, lift you up and guide you in the right direction. Getting around the right people will help motivate you.

A great place to start is Facebook groups. Reach out directly to industry leaders and others, connect with those who can help move your career positively and don’t get sucked into the negativity out there.

Q: What are your pro-specific tools?

A: I like tools that are easy to transport, lightweight and require minimal setup. First, a Grabo, which is a battery-powered suction tool that works on wet and dry surfaces. It makes my life so much easier because I’m only 4-foot-10, and 90 percent of the time I’m installing tiles that are bigger than two feet.

I use a manual snap cutter, which I like instead of a wet saw because it works with limited space, doesn’t need water and doesn’t make dust. Then there’s a manual rail cutter for super large tiles, which I like over a rail saw because of its portability. Plus, it doesn’t create dust.

An angle grinder cuts a large variety of tiles, allows for intricate cuts and works wet or dry. It comes in corded and cordless models, and you can get attachments to cut holes, make shapes and polish your cuts. It takes a little bit of time to get skilled with that tool, and it’s very dangerous, so you have to be careful.

Lastly, a level, the most important tool as a tile installer. We have so many levels of every size, because you need your substrate to be flat, as well as to check that every tile is level.

Schannon Yodice Bio

Schannon Yodice — aka @ThatTileChick from Instagram — is a tile setter, business owner, fitness buff, entrepreneur and lover of all things blue collar.

She tried the 9-to-5 office routine for almost a decade until August 2020, when she took a leap of faith and switched to setting tile full time. Since then, Yodice has solidified her tile business and social media presence, where she shares her passion for tile, promotes creative thinking and encourages other young professionals on their journeys.

Writer Karuna Eberl Bio

Karuna Eberl is a regular contributor to FamilyHandyman.com. She’s spent the last 25 years as a freelance journalist and filmmaker, telling stories of people, nature, travel, science and history. Eberl has won numerous awards for her writing, her Florida Keys Travel Guide and her documentary, The Guerrero Project.

I’ve owned the same $20 headlamp for the past decade, though I kept hearing about the advances and benefits of new age, high-tech headlamps. So I decided to give the Fenix HM65R headlamp a try.

What Is The Fenix HM65r Headlamp?

The Fenix HM65r headlamp features two ultra bright lights that emit up to 1,400 lumens of neutral white light. The spotlight and the flood light are independently controlled and powered by the 18650 rechargeable battery. The magnesium alloy body weighs less than aluminum, but still resists impact and is waterproof to a depth of six feet, according to the manufacturer.

The lightweight perforated reflective headband and removable top headband fit snugly and comfortably on my large head. And it weighs nearly the same as my cheap headlamp with its two clunky AA batteries.

How We Tested It

I brought the Fenix HM65R camping twice in three weeks. I tested its many light settings via basic navigation of our campsites at night. I also left it on overnight several times to assess the battery’s longevity on different settings.

You might think I’m crazy, but I also dropped it off the end of the dock into the lake while it was on! I wanted to test whether it was truly waterproof, and whether it would still function well after such a trial.

Performance Review

Brightness

This is the nicest headlamp I’ve ever used. The wider flood light helps for close tasks like reading in your sleeping bag or rifling through the cooler at night. The incredibly bright spotlight offers a longer, tighter beam.

Turn on both lights for the all-encompassing, 1,400 lumen beam. It’s ideal for when your buddy swears he just saw “something huge move right over there!” or while you’re finishing your nightcap around the fire pit.

Battery Life

The battery life is more than adequate for the jobsite or outdoor adventures.

After leaving each light on overnight, on medium or low, the Fenix HM65R still illuminated brightly in the morning. However, the battery depleted quickly when I left both lights on, or left one on high. And I only got about 3-1/2 hours out of the battery at the full 1,400 lumens, which was plenty.

As a bonus, if you misplace your USB-c charging cord or lack an electrical outlet, the Fenix HM65R can also run off two CR123a single use, primary batteries in a pinch.

Waterproof-ness

The waterproof test was pleasantly surprising if slightly stressful. I tied a rope to the Fenix HM65R, turned it on and dropped it a little more than 40 inches onto the sandy bottom of the lake. I stood in awe as the non-flickering headlamp gleamed through the darkish green water.

I waited four long minutes, expecting the light to extinguish at any moment. It never did. I pulled it back to the surface, and after a quick wipe down with a towel it was back to business as usual.

Quality Costs More

I’ve functioned perfectly well with my $20, AA battery-eating headlamp for years. But the Fenix HM65R is a far superior product, even at five times the price of my old headlamp. The Fenix HM65R’s rechargeable, long-lasting, comfortable and bright features are absolutely worth the cost and the upgrade.

Why You Should Buy This

Whether you work in a trade requiring frequent headlamp use or you’re an avid outdoor enthusiast always on the water, give the Fenix HM65R a try. It’s the headlamp I never knew I wanted or needed.

Where to Buy

The Fenix HM65R is available from fenix-store.com, or at Amazon.com.

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I bought a bow saw, pole saw, pruners, loppers and a gas chain saw. I did much of the work myself and hired a professional tree service to take out the big ones closest to the house.

These days, I don’t use those tools much except when a windstorm knocks down a limb or two. Instead of digging out the entire tree tool collection, I grabbed the Stihl GTA 26 Pruner to see if it would work for these small and medium branches and limbs.

What Is the Stihl GTA 26 Pruner?

The Stihl GTA 26 is a compact, handheld battery-operated pruner weighing 2.7 lbs. It’s got a condensed four-inch chain saw with a quarter-inch PM3 chain to make smooth cuts with next to no vibration.

It also features an LED display, safe trigger lockout switch and a comfortable ergonomic rubber grip. The Stihl GTA 26 ships with a powerful AS 2 battery, charger, lubricating oil and a carrying case.

Like other Stihl products, the GTA 26 pruner looks and feels sturdy and well-made. It even features a tiny version of their trademark bright orange guide bar scabbard to keep it safe and sound during storage or transport.

How We Tested It

I had a single limb come down from a maple tree during a recent storm. I broke it down with the Stihl pruner and took to the county compost heap for disposal.

While I was there, I asked the attendant if I could use his 20-foot tall pile of limbs and branches to further test the Shihl GTA 26. With his approval, I got after the pile, keeping a close eye on battery life, cuts made, and overall performance on different thicknesses and types of branches.

Performance Review

Performance

With the battery charged, I began cutting the downed maple limb in my yard. The limb was nearly 17 feet long and close to five inches in diameter at its fattest.

The GTA 26 pruner had no problem with this task. It cut up the branch in no time, though it required multiple passes and one rotation on the thick final cut. Though better on branches less than 2-1/2-in. thick, it handled thicknesses up to 3-1/2-in. in a single, methodical pass.

The Stihl GTA 26 was comfortable to carry and use, producing more cutting power than I expected from a compact battery operated pruner.

The same was true at the compost heap. Again, starting with a full battery, I performed 83 cuts over 29 minutes before the battery ran out. It again worked best on branches less than 2-1/2-in. thick. Unsurprisingly, it cut through softer woods like Pine and Aspen with no problem.

Value

If you compare similar pruning products, you’ll quickly find are all roughly the same price when you include the battery and charger. However, the GTA 26 was the first of its kind in the U.S. market. Plus, Stihl is an industry leader in high-quality lawn and garden tools.

Although it may seem like you’re spending a lot on another garden tool in your collection, know that it’s a well-built and dependable one.

Reliability and durability

The reputation of Stihl tools has long been based on durability and dependability, and those traits held here. The GTA 26 looks and feels sturdy and strong. It features high quality, well-made components like the PM3 saw chain and stout AS 2 battery. If properly used and maintained, these will function for many years down the road.

Ease of Use

The trigger operated Stihl GTA 26 is as user friendly as they come. The LED display gives you up-to-the-second charge readings and tool status information.

There are also multiple safety components like a retractable chain guard and trigger lockout switch for ensuring safe operation. Even maintenance and lubrication on the GTA 26 is painless, thanks to the tool-less, single-wingnut bar and chain access.

Why You Should Buy This

The Stihl GTA 26 is ideal for light cutting around the yard. The foolproof, trigger operated pruner is lightweight, strong, agile and well-made.

The tool comes with everything you need to get it running. And it’s made by Stihl, one of the best known and respected brands in the field. Once you get your hands on one of these, you’ll never pick up your pruning shears, lopper or bow saw again.

Where to Buy

The Stihl GTA 26 pruner is available at Ace Hardware.

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Personally, I’m diligent about applying sunscreen. At least, I thought I was. But after succumbing to the dermatologist’s scalpel, I’ve learned I don’t reapply nearly as much as I should, and rarely have sunscreen available when I need more.

Because of this, I started a small collection of UV protective clothing. After noticing Dickies made a line of warm weather work wear, I ordered one of their sun shirts and gave it a try.

What Is The Dickies Temp-iQ Cooling Performance Long Sleeve Sun Shirt?

This Dickies Temp-iQ Cooling Performance Long Sleeve Sun Shirt, made of 60% polyester and 40% cotton, is built to withstand the abuse summer outdoor activities can bring. It features a built-up, raglan neckline, teamed with UPF 40+ sun protection to keep harmful rays at bay no matter the conditions.

The advanced Temp-iQ intelligent cooling fabric effectively controls your core body temperature while wicking away moisture, keeping you cool and dry. It features a comfortable hood and anchor thumb-holes to provide extra coverage for your head and hands. There’s also a appreciated chest pocket so you don’t misplace your carpenter’s pencil or ear plugs around the jobsite.

The Dickies Temp-iQ Long Sleeve Performance Sun Shirt comes in five colors and sizes from small to 4-XL.

How We Tested It

I ordered the Dickies sun shirt right before a ten-day heat wave in the middle of July. I had no specific outdoor projects in mind to test the shirt, but plenty of menial daily tasks to put it through the ringer.

Over the ten-day period, I wore the Dickies Temp-iQ Sun Shirt every time I worked outdoors — mowing the lawn, painting part of the garage, breaking down fallen limbs from a storm, splitting firewood, even removing a wasp nest. While testing the shirt, I was most interested in how well the Temp-iQ fabric protected me from the sun. I was equally interested in the shirt’s general fit, comfort, utility and cleaning instructions.

Performance Review

Initially the long-sleeved, hooded sun shirt felt warm. However, once I focused on the task at hand, my clothing became irrelevant. I quickly learned the Dickies Sun Shirt is comfortable and breathable, and the moisture wicking top notch. On two occasions I got stuck in a spontaneous rain shower only to be dry and cool minutes later.

I am also impressed by the strength of the Dickies Temp-iQ Sun Shirt. The durable fabric feels thicker and less flexible than other UV protectant shirts I’ve owned for fishing and other outdoor uses, but it’s just as comfortable. While breaking down the branch pile, I worried about the shirt tearing or snagging on pointed limb ends, pruning shears or bow saw teeth. It came through it unscathed.

The Dickies Temp-iQ Sun Shirt washing instructions are standard: machine wash on cold with like colors and tumble dry low. But something else caught my attention when reading the instructions — the UPF 40+ sun protection is only effective for 10 washes!

After doing some research, it seems the UV protection wears down slowly over time. Though your Dickies Temp-iQ Sun Shirt won’t have the full UPF 40+ protection after ten washes, it’s still better for mowing the lawn than that concert tee you picked up a few summers back.

The extra-large shirt fits well. It offers comfortable sleeves, thumb-holes, neckline and hood to accommodate a big man. I just wish the shirt was a few inches longer. Multiple times during my yard work, I picked up a stick or sprinted away after spraying a wasp nest and felt a burst of hot air straight up my back. By adding a few inches to the bottom, Dickies would have a slam-dunk product more enjoyable for the wearer.

Why You Should Buy This

If you play or work in the sun, or need extra sun protection, take care of yourself with the Dickies Temp-iQ Cooling Performance Long Sleeve Sun Shirt. It’s comfortable, durable, moisture wicking and easy to care for. No more farmers tan for your partner or children to tease you about!

Pros

• UPF 40+ sun protection;
• Breast pocket;
• Comfortable;
• Breathable;
• Great moisture wicking;
• Stout durability.

Cons

• UV protection washes out over time;
• Too short.

Where To Buy

The Dickies Temp-iQ Cooling Performance Long Sleeve Sun Shirt is available from Amazon or at Dickies.com.

Buy Now

Melinde Madsen loves to make things. In college she studied woodworking, bronze casting and metalwork, creating sculptures aplenty. But while she excelled at those crafts, she didn’t truly consider herself a fine artist.

So when she was offered a job as a production carpenter at Minneapolis-based building and remodeling company Terra Firma, she saw it as the perfect opportunity to keep adding to her skill set.

“Working as a carpenter has been a great way for me to continue my education,” she says. “Even though I have a background in woodworking, carpentry focuses a lot more on the structural side of building. It’s a bit of a challenge, but it’s been really fun.”

Madsen is wrapping up her first year at Terra Firma. So far she’s learned hands-on skills, from demolition to framing. Recently she’s been enjoying a lot of trim work. She also works as a studio technician at St. Olaf College, where she manages student workers, fixes tools and handles administrative and budgeting tasks.

In her free time, she still pursues her love of creating useful things, including carving spoons.

We asked Madsen for her thoughts on the state of the carpentry industry.

Q: What are your favorite types of carpentry projects?

A: One of the first houses I worked on, I was there from start to finish, doing demolition, framing and trim, so that holds a special place in my heart.

I love working on old houses in general because I get to see how carpentry techniques, wood and building materials have changed over the years. Demos are fun that way; taking apart what’s been done in the past and seeing the though processes of the people who worked on them before. I also recently got to learn some timber framing. It’s a whole art in itself.

I’ve been here a year and I’ve learned so much, but I’ve barely scratched the surface. There’s so much to it. With remodeling, every building is different and every project is a new experience. I love working on tiny trim details and figuring out how to make it look the most aesthetically pleasing.

I also like examining the old woodworking and timbers from 100 years ago. You can see the old-growth rings and tell the tree was cut down from a forest, rather than grown on a timber farm. They’re gorgeous and they’ve held up for so long.

I’m making a collection of scraps that were getting trashed, different types of wood that I’ve found on the jobsite, like redwood and tropical hardwoods. It’s fun to have little mementos.

Q: What’s it like being a woman in the carpentry trade?

A: I’m pretty small, so I can fit in small places and do a lot of tight jobs, which is great. My physical strength is sometimes a challenge, but there are so many ways to accommodate that, like using leverage to my advantage.

Finding clothes, boots and tool belts that fit and are of good quality is a challenge, too, because even the smallest sizes of men’s Carhartts are just swimming on me.

My boss at St. Olaf, Christie Hawkins, was telling me how there were only a few women when she started out as a carpenter, so she really had to kick some ass to show she was worthy of being there. I’m very fortunate I have not had to do a ton of that. The people I work with are so great, welcoming and eager to teach. We work as a great team, and if I’m lifting something super heavy, they don’t even ask, they just give me a hand.

And I surprise them sometimes. Like, I’ve been doing metal work and welding for a while, and once while we were cutting this big steel beam they asked if I wanted to try. I was like, “Yeah, sure, let’s go.” They loved that I just wanted to jump in. My team is just wonderful, and Terra Firma is a great place for me to be.

Q: How do you imagine the future of carpentry?

A: I’ve seen a lot more women going into sculpture, and I’m hoping that will lead to more women in the trades as well. Our company is also starting to hire more women and nonbinary people, which is something I really hope continues because it’s fun to see us have more representation, as well as to work for a company that is pushing to be more inclusive.

Q: Any advice for young women looking to get into carpentry?

A: Just do it. If that’s something you’re passionate about, it can’t hurt to give it a shot. Also, one way to find the support you need to get started is through woodworking communities and tool libraries. They can help get you learning and working on a lot of fun stuff.

Q: What are your top pro-specific tools?

A: I test out a lot of other people’s tools to find ones that really work for my body, to keep myself healthy and not overstrain. I mostly use DeWalt, but I’ve started to love Makita because their tools are light and have a lot of power.

For trim tools, I really like these clamps because they’re handy for miter corners. My favorite trim tool is this Lee Valley rasp — the one that’s half-round in shape and pointed. I use it often when I’m trimming. Then I have my Sloyd knife with a sheath, which is good for sharpening pencils and cutting loose things, and I use it for carving spoons, too.

My combination square is super handy. Of course, I always need a tape. Then I have a Japanese pull saw for flesh cutting and details. My pry bar gives me a lot of leverage, and that’s something I really need. I had a smaller one, which I hated and never used. Then I got this one, and it’s now my favorite thing — my big wrecking bar I use all the time because it’s so effortless.

Melinde Madsen Bio

Melinde Madsen is a first-year carpenter apprentice at Terra Firma in Minneapolis and also works as a studio technician at St. Olaf College. She earned a Bachelor’s degree in studio art and art history with a concentration in women and gender studies.

Her area of focus in studio art was sculpture, working in woodworking, bronze casting, and metal work. In her personal time she enjoys making things for everyday use as well as carving cooking utensils.

Writer Karuna Eberl Bio

Karuna Eberl is a regular contributor to FamilyHandyman.com. She’s spent the last 25 years as a freelance journalist and filmmaker, telling stories of people, nature, travel, science and history. Eberl has won numerous awards for her writing, her Florida Keys Travel Guide and her documentary, The Guerrero Project.

If you’ve done any of these projects, you know it’s a hassle to constantly remove and re-chuck the bit you need. Awhile back, Worx came out with its new and improved Switchdriver 2.0, a single drill with a switchable chuck. That lets you jump back and forth between the bits and torque settings you need, on demand.

I was curious. So I got ahold of one, charged it up and put it to the test.

What is the Worx Nitro Switchdriver 2.0?

The Worx Nitro Switchdriver 2.0 is a battery-operated drill/driver that features a pair of 1/4-in. hex-drive rotating dual chucks. It’s powered by a re-engineered brushless motor, and ships with a 20-volt, 2-amp-hour battery and charger.

An intelligent digital interface lets you change torque settings and switch between drill or driver bits with a click of the keypad. It also features many standard facets like LED work light and a variable speed trigger.

The Switchdriver looks and feels well-made, and is surprisingly lightweight and compact in your hand.  It comes with a small bag for storage and some bits.

How We Tested It

Needing more garage organization, I used the Worx Nitro Switchdriver 2.0 to build an eight-foot-wide shelving unit around my rolling mechanics tool chest. I did it with 2×4’s, 1/2-inch plywood and countersunk deck screws.

I was curious to learn how much power the drill had, whether the digital interface was easy to use, how long the charged Worx battery could go in constant mode, and any torque changes that might come with running separate types of bits.

After cutting all my plywood and lumber to size. I pulled out the drill, plugged a #2 Phillips bit in one chuck, put a tapered pre-drilling bit with an attached countersink in the other, and got to work.

Performance Review

The Worx Switchdriver came in handy for building my garage shelves.

I love how quickly and easily you can switch between chucks, but I wish one was a traditional drill chuck rather than two hex drive chucks. A hex drive chuck is nice because you can quickly and securely switch out specifically made hex bits or drivers.  Unfortunately, most drill bits are not hex drive; those are much more expensive and harder to obtain.

For such a lightweight tool, the Worx Switchdriver packs a little punch. The brushless motor and battery supplied adequate power for this Saturday afternoon project, but not much more. After I finished, I plugged in a 1-1/2-inch spade bit so I could play around with the digital interface and torque settings. It struggled to drill a handful of holes with the larger, more taxing bit.

The two-button interface is simple and easy to use.  It functions the same as the twist torque control on a traditional drill, without a hammer-drill function. But it’s sleeker and more high-tech looking, as if from a James Bond movie.

What Others Thought

Verified Amazon purchaser Monkey gave it four stars, writing: “Novel design, but even when using the 20v 4A Worx battery, the [power] on this is way less than ideal. Still, great for every day, non-heavy use.”

Geep, another Amazon verified purchaser, raved about it in a five-star review: “This is one neat tool. I just finished installing 40+ cabinet and drawer pulls. Having a drill bit and a Phillips screwdriver on one device really simplified the job. I also use the same battery for my yard blower. I recommend this product.”

Final Verdict

The Worx Nitro Switchdriver 2.0 is a useful and capable tool for light, everyday use, but feels a bit gimmicky, too.

If you already own other Worx tools and batteries, there’s a place for the Switchdriver in your workshop. But if not, I’d suggest looking elsewhere. For the $130 price tag, I’d still rather have a trusty drill/driver combo than this tool.

Pros

• Innovative timesaving design;
• Easy to use;
• Great for around-the-house;
• Slick intelligent interface.

Cons

• No traditional chuck;
• Under-powered.

Where to Buy

The Worx Nitro Switchdriver 2.0 is available on Amazon.com.

Buy Now!

After working as a university professor, then at a community non-profit teaching young people about the trades and apprenticeships, she decided to try her hand at running her own construction company. Now she’s the owner and operator of True North Roofing, and says she’s never been happier.

We talked to Lehowich to learn more about her career and the tools she finds essential while working as a roofer.

Goat Steep Assist

The Goat Roof Ladder is actually a tool that allows roofers to get on and off roofs quickly and efficiently. It’s an alternative to the traditional rope and harness.

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BullyBag Tool Carrier

Lehowich loves this product from Bully Bag because she can keep her most-used tools at her side without strapping on a bulky tool belt. The Bully Bag comes packed with useful tools, including a shingle gauge, two tape measures and a pry bar.

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Gorilla Ladder

Lugging ladders from jobsite to jobsite can be a major pain. Lehowich likes this ladder from Gorilla because it’s got the reach she needs to do her work, and folds down small enough to fit into her hybrid SUV.

Shop Now

Cougar Paws Performer

When you’re working on a roof, you take every step carefully. Cougar Paws Performer safety boots provides Lehowich some peace of mind while she’s walking on shingles. The patented grip technology gives her traction and stability.

Shop Now

When she was a kid, Celia Reyes remembers watching her dad do thermite welding for the Union Pacific Railroad. She thought it looked really cool, like a volcano. But it wasn’t until she was in her 20s that she decided to try out welding for herself.

She took a community college course and loved it. Her dad said that if she wanted to make a career of it, she should go to Tulsa Welding School, the best in the area.

“He took me on a tour of the school,” she says. “After that, it was like, ‘Let’s do this! I want to enjoy this and learn how to do this.’ ”

There was only one other woman in her initial class of 150. The school was fast-paced and challenging, and many of her male peers told her she couldn’t do it. Only 10 students ultimately made it through the intensive seven-month program — Reyes, and nine others.

She’s spent the past 11 years working for John Zink Hamworthy Combustion, where she welds smart combustion solutions that minimize carbon emissions. “They’re giant flares,” she says. “Like you see in the movies, the flares out in the oil fields.”

Her fierce determination led her to a job she loves, in an industry where women make up just seven percent of the workforce. It’s also made her intent on showing others that women can be successful in the skilled trades. Part of that includes teaching welding at Oklahoma Technical College.

We asked Reyes for her thoughts on the state of the welding industry. Looking for more inspiration? Meet Brenda Hay, a professional welder.

Q: Which projects stand out to you?

A. I’ve worked on so many jobs that I can’t even remember which ones stand out. They’re all unique. I see what I create every day and say, “Wow, I built that, and it’s going to be used in the field for burning off excess gas, so the environment is cleaner.” For fun, also I enjoy making art, like little metal roses and butterflies for my mom’s yard.

Q: What changes have you seen in welding during the last 10 years?

A: There are more and more females going into the field, which is great. Plus there’s so much changing with technology. Robot welding is coming up, and new innovative nondestructive testings are coming out. I’m always trying to learn to keep changing with the welding field.

Q: How do you keep up with those new technologies?

A. I took an AOS [Associate in Occupational Science degree] program for welding, which deals with non-destructive testing. So I know how to read the weld, how to make sure it’s sound and that it looks perfect. It also taught me the paperwork side of welding, how to run a business.

Now I’m working on my CWI, which means Certified Weld Inspector. That way I can be the one telling the guys, “Hey, I need you to fix your weld right there. It’s not quite sound.”

The company also teaches us new techniques, and confined space training, because in my department we actually get inside of the vessels that we weld. I also became a first responder. So now I’m responsible for double-checking the safety of the area, making sure my coworkers have all their gear, and that the atmosphere inside the vessels is okay.

Q: What changes would you like to see in the next 10 years?

A: I hope to see more advancements in welding technology and styles. But I’d really like to see more women in the field, because now when I run into one, I’m like, “Cool, another unicorn.” It makes me want to talk to them and learn about what challenges they have faced in the field, what they’ve learned, and what journey they’ve been on. It’s enjoyable to have someone to relate to who’s in my field and does what I do. Get to know about Renee Wilson, who is passionate about insulation.

Q: Any pros or cons to being a woman in the welding trade?

A: When I started my job, I had a lot of people saying, “Oh, you’re not supposed to be here.” I was like, “No, I’m here, let me show you.” So it was a little challenging at first, but once I got to know the guys, they became like family. I enjoy everybody I work with.

In general, I think women have more patience and attention to detail. The guys sometimes give me all of the little stuff that needs welding, whenever they feel like they can’t do it, or they’re getting too frustrated. Another advantage I have is being [left-handed]. Some of the guys will ask me if I can weld things for them that are easier for me to reach because of the angle.

Q: Any advice for young women looking to get into welding?

A: First, it’s a really satisfying career, especially if you enjoy working with your hands and enjoy building objects or creating art. There’s so much welding out there, it’s used for everything, even in fields like aerospace, so it’s also lucrative.

If you’re thinking welding might be for you, try it out in a community college course. After that, if you decide to pursue it as a career, do everything that you can to learn and excel in school. Talk to the instructors a lot, find one who is willing to give you extra advice and attention, and stay late after class to practice.

Q: What are your pro-specific tools?

A: It varies from job to job, but a grinder is probably the most used item in my trade, which helps fix welds if they need to be repaired and even bevel pipe. Then I use a file to slide against my flux core, or for stick welding and feathering out the side of a weld to make it look neater.

My tungsten holder helps me sharpen my tungsten on the bench grinder and keep it sharp for TIG welding. Then there’s my flange wizard, combination square, tape measure, and a digital level for accuracy.

Celia Reyes Bio

Celia Reyes has spent the last decade as a welder for John Zink Hamworthy Combustion, which develops smart combustion solutions that minimize carbon emissions. Prior to that, she attended Tulsa Welding School (TWS), where she was one of just 10 students to graduate out of a starting class of 150.

She continues to sharpen her skills by taking courses at TWS. She holds an Associates of Occupational Studies in Welding Technology and teaches welding at Oklahoma Technical College.

Writer Karuna Eberl Bio

Karuna Eberl is a regular contributor to FamilyHandyman.com. She spent the last 25 years as a freelance journalist and filmmaker, telling stories of people, nature, travel, science and history. Eberl has won numerous awards for her writing, her Florida Keys Travel Guide and her documentary, The Guerrero Project.

At age 34 with a four-year-old son, Maggie Rogosienski hit a wall. She loved her career as a personal trainer until two major life events shook her world: A divorce, then a landlord suddenly shutting down the gym she owned.

“I thought it was going to be my forever career,” she says. “I was devastated. I mean, I really hit rock bottom.”

Her brother, 38 at the time, also faced a career crossroads. So when their steamfitter cousin suggested the trades, the siblings made a pact to begin electrical apprenticeships.

“I was terrified,” she says. “I remember crying the day before I started, thinking that I can’t do this. I never had more than a Walmart screwdriver to my name. There’s nothing wrong with it; I think I even still have it. But the trades were never an environment that I was exposed to.”

On her first day she didn’t know what to do, so she organized a mess of hardware on the shelves. That boosted her confidence. Today, she’s in her third year of the program in Milwaukee.

“I’ll never look back with an atom of regret,” she says. “Life has been both a blessing and a challenge, but I’m grateful for who I am becoming. I love construction and truly feel like I’m going to wind up in a life greater than I ever believed possible.”

She also became a trades social media influencer on Instagram, where she shares challenges, triumphs and advice. @Electric.Mags has more than 14,000 followers.

We asked Rogosienski for her thoughts on switching careers and electrical apprenticeships.

Q: What are the pitfalls of switching to a trade career later in life?

A. I had to get over not wanting to go back to school for another five years. But you have to live your life, so who cares if you have six different careers?

Also, the first time I had to listen to some 19-year-old trying to give me instruction, I’m like, I’m sorry, I can’t hear you when you’re talking to the ceiling and there’s all of this heavy equipment running. Younger apprentices don’t say anything, but I have to communicate my concerns because I’m past that stage of discomfort in life.

I still do have a few insecurities, though. I’m in my third year and I feel like I should be a lot further with my knowledge and skills. But everybody tells me it’ll just click one day. We’ll see.

Q: Any pros or cons of being a woman apprentice?

A. I’ve had some issues with [harassment]. It’s a sticky situation, but I try to deal with it head on.

When someone does something inappropriate, I usually just laugh, because it’s almost predictable. If they don’t respect me, that’s up to them. I’m just here to work, be professional and do this for my family.

On the flip side, it’s been ingrained in everybody’s head, “Don’t talk to her until you know she’s not going to file a sexual harassment complaint for saying hi or something.” And I get that fear has to exist. So I’m usually the one to say “hi” first.

Otherwise, a lot of people are very supportive of women. They help when I’m struggling, and they see the benefit of working with a woman. We think differently. I can fit in smaller places, which gives me some value. I can’t do everything, but at least I’ve got some things they can’t do, ever.

I also respect that men are stronger and taller than me, so we all deserve to be congratulated. That’s part of the brotherhood, or sisterhood, to know we’re all just trying to pass along knowledge and do a good job.

Q: Which projects stand out to you?

A. I love conduit bending. I haven’t gotten to do nearly enough of it. I want to get good at it because that’s what makes an electrician an electrician.

Also, I’ve been in hospitals a lot. It’s always interesting to see behind the walls. I didn’t used to think about how everything around me needs electricity. Now it’s wild to see the little things I used to pass by and not think about, because it wasn’t part of my job.

Q: What changes have you seen?

A: In the last few years, I’ve seen tremendous changes.

I remember posting on Instagram about struggling to find a woman’s boot that wasn’t pink or purple. Unfortunately, I still see those out there, but also companies are coming out of the woodwork with women’s work products. I think they’re seeing that we’re not going anywhere, so they’re figuring out how to support us. I hope the diversity keeps growing.

Q: Where do you hope to see yourself in 10 years?

A: I actually gave up the idea of thinking about that, because that’s where I missed growing in my other careers. Every day is “live for today.”

As a past business owner, I know I’m capable of learning from the ground up and succeeding. Plus, technology is changing so rapidly, we have no idea what’s even coming. It makes me feel like I really made a good decision. I’ve grown a lot and I’m unbelievably humbled by everything I’ve learned about myself.

There’s so much of ourselves we don’t get to see throughout our lives because we let ourselves get comfortable. And when we don’t push ourselves into discomfort, we fail to change, evolve and adapt.

Q: Any advice for young women looking to get into electrical or other trades?

A: It’s unbelievable how much work there is in the trades. So keep an open mind, and educate yourself about what you’re getting into and the long-term and short-term consequences of your decisions.

Be honest with yourself. Nobody can read your mind, so communicate what you need out of this career. That will help set you up for success.

As far as being a woman in the trades, we need to stop having these inner struggles and insecurities, because we are more capable than we give ourselves credit for. Trust in yourself. Every door is out there ready to be opened. But you have to chase it down, knock it down or build around it.

Q: What are your pro-specific tools?

A: I like Klein Tools a lot, and I’m part of their Trusted Pros Ambassador Program. I use their 25-foot tape measure. The magnetic end helps in the tight spots we have to get into for our conduit. Their multi-bit ratcheting screwdriver 15-in-1 tool comes with a storage bottom and all the most important bits I use, which cuts down on the number of tools I need to carry.

THE electrical tool is Klein’s nine-inch side-cutter lineman’s pliers, which are essential for wire cutting and pulling and, with this specific version, crimping terminals onto wire. The heavy-duty grip is perfect for non-slip jobs, especially when your hands start to sweat.

Then there’s my Channellock pliers and my Klein-Kurve wire stripper and cutter, for 8-18 AWG solid and 10-20 AWG stranded wire. I like these in particular because of the way they fit the curve of my hand and give me more leverage.

Finally, there’s my multimeter electrical test kit, which keeps me safe and helps in troubleshooting. The added flashlight on the voltage tester is a nice addition, so I can see which wires might be hot, especially in dark, over-packed junction boxes.

Maggie Rogosienski Bio

Maggie Rogosienski aims to inspire others by sharing her journey from post-grad aspiring physician to gym owner who jumped headfirst into the unknown world of construction. She is a third-year electrical apprentice in Milwaukee and a social media influencer in the trades. Electric Mags, as she is known on social media, is also mother to a busy nine-year-old son.

Writer Karuna Eberl Bio

Karuna Eberl is a regular contributor to FamilyHandyman.com. She’s spent the last 25 years as a freelance journalist and filmmaker, telling stories of people, nature, travel, science and history. Eberl has won numerous awards for her writing, her Florida Keys Travel Guide and her documentary, The Guerrero Project.

“The answer is all of it,” says Neil Stevenson, a Charleston, South Carolina-based architect and consultant for the celebrity home renovation series Rucker’s Reno. “Every penny you have is what it’s going to cost.”

Seriously, though: If you’re smart about it, renovating an old house won’t bankrupt you, although it will undoubtedly cost more than sprucing up a newer house.

In Stevenson’s experience, historic renovations run about the same as building a new higher-end house. Broadly speaking, that’s around $475 per square foot. But if you’re planning to look deeply into historic restoration, the sky’s the limit.

“It’s a moving target depending on how crazy you want to get,” says Stevenson. “How much of the historical fabric do you want to preserve? Do you want to just make it useful for now, or scrape off 20 layers of paint to find the original color and custom mix mortar that matches exactly?”

No matter the scope of your project, it will cost more than you think. From moldings to fire damage, animals and other surprises behind the walls, our experts all agree you should add a hefty contingency to your project budget.

Here are some other line items to take into consideration when restoring older and historic homes.

Specialty Permits and Historic Zoning

If the home is in an historic district, plan on extra permitting fees, plus an architect to help navigate regulations and create a restoration plan. You’ll also need to increase your budget for materials.

“If you have a slate roof, the city is going to require that you put a slate roof back,” says architectural historian Kristopher King of Carriage Properties in Charleston, S.C., a consultant on Rucker’s Reno.

“I can put an asphalt shingle roof on a house for $15,000, but that slate roof is probably going to cost me $150,000, so it’s a massive difference. But an asphalt shingle roof will last you 15 years and a slate one 150, so typically when you resell, this market appreciates that kind of work.”

Modern Building Codes, Infrastructure and Systems

Any pre-1960s home will likely have wiring, plumbing, framing and windows that aren’t up to modern safety or comfort standards, says Bryan Slowick, president of BDS Design Build Remodel in Libertyville, Ill.

Once you start digging into those, you may be required to bring the whole system up to today’s codes. Also, some really old houses lacked kitchens, bathrooms, HVAC systems or closets. If you have to add or update them, you’ll need to open and repair plaster walls for access to pipes and wires. That’s expensive.

“I know it sounds like a lot of fun, and it is,” Stevenson says facetiously.

HVAC

According to our experts, HVAC is often the biggest challenge and cost in an old house. It’s likely you’ll need to turn a matrix of old radiators and fireplaces into a ducted system more in line with today’s comfort expectations. That can be problematic.

“Some old homes don’t necessarily have a wide enough wall cavity to run traditional HVAC,” says Slowick. If that’s the case, you might have to go with a high-velocity air-conditioning system, which has smaller ducts and can cost twice as much as a traditional unit.

HVAC was a particularly sticky problem on Rucker’s Reno.  “It was truly a nightmare,” Stevenson says. “It was almost impossible what we had to do.

“The floor joists were only 11 inches deep and 3-1/2-inches wide, and there are just massive chunks of lumber, so we really had to put our thinking caps on to figure out how to run ductwork. In a large, complex house like that, it could run upwards of a half million dollars.”

Specialty Materials

Procuring original materials or fabricating new ones to match can also be costly. Old moldings, door casing and other trims often have different profiles than modern materials, and thus need to be custom milled.

“Traditional FJP (finger-jointed pine) trim might cost $2 a linear foot versus $1.50 for a newer house,” says Slowick. “For one doorway, that doesn’t add up. But if you’re talking about a whole house, you’re talking thousands of dollars.”

Other tricky materials can range from floor paint to clay-fired hearth tiles and stained-glass window repairs. On one project, Stevenson needed to replace some rotting iron gates, and the lowest price he could find was $55,000.

Windows and Doors

Door and window sizes often don’t align with modern standards. Plus, they often have outdated energy specs and poor weather resistance.

“You can rebuild windows with that historical, cool, wavy glass,” says Stevenson. “But it’s just that much more work. And you’ll need to order them from Eastern Europe, because we don’t make them here anymore.”

The good news is, if installed correctly, old-style windows can be quite energy efficient. The bad news is, while a modern vinyl window costs a few hundred dollars, the same window done historic style could be well over $1,000.

There can also be issues with non-standard size doors, or finding matching hardware. “It’s a never-ending discovery of how unique your building is when you have to pay for all of the uniqueness,” says Stevenson.

Specialty Contractors and Craftspeople

Inevitably, you’ll run into something that’s better outsourced to a skilled craftsperson. Maybe it’ll be plaster or milling or masonry. Finding skilled craftspeople experienced in older technologies can be a challenge. And, of course, those skilled people demand a higher hourly wage.

Plaster

Even if your plaster comes intact, you’ll need to cut into and repair it if you’re running new electrical, plumbing or HVAC. And plaster is more expensive than drywall.

“We’ve seen houses where the plaster was beyond salvage, but where the contractor actually put in [drywall] and then ran a skim coat of plaster mud over the top,” King says. “You get that great thud, durability and texture.”

Flooring

If you’re trying to match traditional pine wood floors, King says they’ll be more expensive to buy and install. That’s because their tongue-and-groove systems require them to be blind nailed. “Then you’ve got to sand it and finish it, instead of just buying a modern flooring system that’s already finished looking and can be laid down in a day,” he says.

Mantels

Any sort of mantel or intricate molding or cornice will likely need to be picked out and cleaned with dental picks, King says.

“What people don’t recognize is when you have a 200-year-old house, there could be anywhere from 15 to 50 coats of paint,” King says. “Removing all of that to restore the detail back is incredibly labor-intensive. There are a lot of things that require craft, and craft is what is expensive today.”

On Rucker’s Reno, Stevenson discovered he couldn’t strip the paint off the mantel, so he tracked down the plant in Scotland which originally manufactured it. Not only was the plant still open, it still had the original mold, so he could order a replica.

Historic Architects and Inspectors

All our experts emphasized that even if you plan on DIYing most of the work, it’s well worth the money to pay for consultation from an architect or contractor with historic home experience before purchasing the house. “Sometimes having someone who knows what they’re looking at on site for an hour is going to save you thousands in the long run,” says King.

A typical walkthrough runs between $200 and $500. If consultants will be more heavily involved from start to finish, the relationship could stay an hourly rate or switch to a percentage of the project budget.

Insurance

Depending on where you live, insurance hurdles for historic homes can manifest in different forms.

“In Charleston, we’re on the coast and we’re in a hurricane zone,” says King. “You can’t just go put impact-rated windows in a historic house in Charleston, so you need a local insurance carrier who can help with this.”

Another consideration is finding a policy that will cover historic replacement value. That of course will be more expensive because it covers repairs to plaster walls, wooden floors and other specialty materials. “You don’t have to do it, but it’s certainly advisable to,” says King.

“All of these things can certainly add up when it comes to restoring a historic home, but it doesn’t mean it has to take forever and cost a fortune. It’s really about making informed decisions.”

“You can analyze what is cool about an old home, and usually it comes down to a certain level of craftsmanship you don’t get in today’s homes,” says Neil Stevenson, a Charleston, S.C.-based architect and consultant for the celebrity home renovation series Rucker’s Reno.

“It’s usually a combination of the windows, floors, ceilings and sometimes there’s super-cool molding, plus little touches like patina or door hardware. That’s what we like to keep.”

The level of craftsmanship required to repair and replace those elements will be costly, so you’ll need to pick and choose your projects carefully. Are you fixing it up to live in it, or aiming for a good return on investment?

“Figure out how much you can sell the house for once it’s fixed up, and work backwards into a budget,” says Stevenson. “Unfortunately, your budget usually won’t be enough to restore everything you want.”

Also, keep in mind some things just aren’t worth the effort.

“There has been poor workmanship and poor materials as long as there has been construction,” says architectural historian Kristopher King of Carriage Properties in Charleston, a Rucker’s Reno consultant.

“Instead of saying that just because it’s old it’s worth saving, it’s more accurate to say that because it’s old, you need to slow down and assess what it is you’re about to do and make sure that it’s not detrimental.”

When deciding what’s worth restoring and what’s not in an old or historic home, here are some of the main elements to consider.

Plaster Walls

Check if the plaster is flat and in its original plane, then sound it out with your hand to determine if it’s still adhering to the lath behind. Centuries of gravity often means you’ll find most severe plaster failure in ceilings.

“Unless the majority of a wall or ceiling has failed, I would argue that re-plastering the damaged areas is the best course of action,” says King. “Plaster offers better soundproofing, fire proofing, and weatherproofing than [drywall].”

Plaster cornice work can be trickier to repair, and almost always requires a skilled craftsperson. But it’s also worth it, King says, because “it’s usually the most visually stunning aspect of a historic room.”

Floors

If you can patch and repair a wood floor, Stevenson and King say it’s usually worth keeping. “Historic wood floors are a defining visual characteristic of historic houses,” King says. “They are usually the first thing the people notice and respond to.”

The most common floor damage comes from moisture or wear. That means selective replacement and repair is a good option, unless the floor has been sanded too many times or the tongues pop. In those cases you’ll probably have to replace them, unless you get lucky and can just flip over the boards to reuse them.

Moldings

Elaborate window and door moldings are hallmarks of many old homes. If possible, leave them in place and work around them when replacing doors and windows. If they must be removed, they’ll likely come apart in sections that can be reassembled.

Windows and Doors

Historic windows and doors are worth keeping and renovating whenever possible. They’re typically more solid and durable than their modern replacements. Plus, King says they were designed to be taken apart, repaired and put back together.

“While historic windows get a bad rap, it is largely because window manufacturers have been marketing it that way for decades,” he says. “Also, most contractors no longer understand how to work on them. But historic windows perform very well. Typically it would take decades of energy savings to recoup the cost of ripping out historic windows.”

Electricity

Replacing the electric system comes down to safety and functionality, which depends on the age and capacity of the system. To figure out if it’s OK, look for an updated service panel, grounded outlets and modern Romex wire.

“If you see the older Edison fuses, cloth-wrapped wire or ungrounded outlets, it’s likely an entire system overhaul is needed,” King says. That might also require new, higher-amp service lines from the pole and other update to comply with today’s building codes.

Plumbing

Like electricity, plumbing replacement depends on safety and whether it needs to comply with modern building codes. “While older copper pipes hold up very well, modern polybutylene pipes done in the 1980s should be replaced if found,” says King.

Older cast-iron waste lines can also corrode over time and lose capacity. And, of course, look out anything with lead and replace those. In uninhabited houses in cold climates, you can also run into surprises in the walls, like burst pipes from freezing.

Insulation

Many old houses lack modern insulation, making heating and cooling bills alarmingly high. But incorrectly installing insulation, especially in warm and damp climates, may cause ongoing condensation problems.

“The best way to protect an old house is a vapor barrier on the outside of the insulation, wrapping the whole place,” says Stevenson. “But you’d have to take off all of the siding to do that, which usually is not an option because once you tear off the old boards they start falling apart.”

There is no easy solution to this. Try to make the house as airtight as possible, and don’t run the air conditioner on too cold a setting.

HVAC

Houses without

Most old houses are unlikely to have an HVAC system. Installing one can be tricky and expensive because sometimes the wall cavities are too narrow for standard ducts. It’s also vital to install them properly to avoid problems with condensation.

“Historic houses were not designed with HVAC in mind,” says King. “It is critically important to understand what you’re doing. There is no more surefire way to mess up an old house than to condition it improperly, especially in humid climates.”

Houses with

If an old house has an HVAC system, inspect the ductwork to make sure it is well-insulated. That will ensure the system isn’t introducing excessive moisture into the building envelope. Also, check to see if the ducting layout is sufficient for each room. And avoid oversized units, which can cause the system to short cycle and not remove latent moisture from the air.

Exterior contracting runs in Sarah Lechowich’s family. Though she loved to tinker in her dad’s shop as a kid, she hesitated following her father and grandfather into the trades as a career.

“When I was younger, I felt torn between helping Mom in the kitchen and wanting to help Dad out in the garage,” she says. “Like a lot of women, I was torn between cultural and societal expectations and what was pulling my interest.”

So she became a university professor, then got a gig at a community nonprofit teaching young people about trades and apprenticeships. It wasn’t until she helped one of her friends start a roofing business that the notion of entering the trades herself came about.

“I just fell in love with it,” she says. “I didn’t realize how rewarding it was.”

Five years later, Lechowich started a roofing company in Minnesota’s Twin Cities. At first, she did it as a hobby to help out friends and family. But soon it blossomed. Because she felt she finally found her direction in life, she named her company True North Roofing.

“I thought I had done everything I could to get away from my family trade background,” she says. “But eventually we start to listen to where our internal compass is pulling us. Apparently, mine led me to roofs and siding.

“I never would have expected it, but here I am. I’ve never been happier. It’s the best thing ever, and I love bringing other women into the trades.”

We asked Lechowich for her thoughts on the state of the roofing industry and how to attract more young people to the trades.

Q: Which projects stand out to you?

A. I don’t have a single project, but rather what stands out to me are the homeowners I work with. A lot of women call me because they haven’t received the respect they need from other contractors. They often say, “I can’t believe you actually looked me in the eye. None of the other contractors took me seriously.”

I want my homeowners to feel seen, valued and heard, and my workers to feel like that, too. It’s neat to be that breath of fresh air.

Q: How have you been received, leading a women-owned company?

A: Great, because if someone has a problem with that, they don’t call me. The ones who do are super excited. When I ask people why they called me, they say, “I want someone who I can trust.”

I take the time to walk them through each step. I don’t just tell them what we’re going to do. I explain how we’re going to do it or fix it.

Q: Is your crew primarily male?

A: Yeah, and I think they’re also excited to be working for a woman-owned company. We just run businesses a little differently, with empathy and compassion.

I’ve tried to create a culture where we can all achieve our financial goals, while also having lots of family time. There’s also a True North friends and family private Facebook group where I post pictures, so spouses and kids can see what Mom or Dad is doing. It creates a whole community. My family is super important to me and this just feels like a normal and natural way to do business.

Also, I see other websites where they showcase only their sales people. To me that’s just backwards, because my business wouldn’t be a business without all of my tradespeople. They’re the superstars. So I showcase my workers along with my sales and office. We are all a team.

Q: What changes have you seen in roofing over the past 10 years?

A: We’re starting to see more industrial tech classrooms come back into high schools. A lot of those got removed with No Child Left Behind, when they shifted to all academics. That created this classism around whether you work with your hands or your mind, except tradespeople work with their minds, too. So it’s good to see more educators realizing what a trades career is.

These are six-figure salaries for a lot of folks. They’re doctor wages without all of the student loans. And I think we’ll see more opportunities because trades cannot be outsourced. You can’t call a call center to fix the leak in your roof. So there’s a lot of job security.

Q: Where do you hope to see the industry in 10 years?

A: I hope the personality of the trades becomes more reflective of women. In roofing, only 0.5 percent are women, and a lot of women in construction are mainly in the office. I’d like to see more of us out on the jobsite because that’s so rewarding.

Not too many people when they’re younger wake up and say, “I’m going to be a roofer or a sider.” But if we can help make those pathways visible for people so they can walk them, I think we’ll start to see that shift happening.

Q: Any pros or cons to being a woman in roofing?

A: I think the biggest challenges for women are our internal challenges, like wondering, “Do we belong here?”

When I’m mentoring and working with other women, they second-guess themselves. Women in construction need to be told, ‘”Yes, you do belong here.” They need someone else to believe in them, and that makes a huge difference. We can do whatever we want to do. We have the physical strength to do a lot of the work, plus the mechanical mind.

Q: Any advice for young women looking to get into the trades?

A: Ask lots of questions. It’s crucial to find a mentor, someone who will support you. Everyone needs a mentor. Even if you’ve been in the trades for 20 years, you still need a mentor.

TikTok is an amazing place to find one. There are so many women tradespeople on there, and women in the trades are super excited to talk to other women in the trades, and see other women get into the trades.

Also, in whatever you’re doing, listen to your inner voice. Whether it’s for what screw size to use, or should you go into accounting or roofing, or should you be friends with this person or that person, your inner voice knows. If you trust your inner voice, you can never cheat yourself or those around you.

Q: What are your pro-specific tools?

A: The Goat Steep Assist ladder helps on steep roofs. And the BullyBag Eight-Pack tool carrier comes with a lot of the tools I need for checking out a roof, plus fits on my hip with whatever I’m wearing, so I don’t have to wear a belt.

I love the Gorilla Ladder, because even though I’m a roofer I drive a hybrid SUV, not a pickup, and it fits in the back. The Cougar Paws Performer safety boots are good for safety on steeper pitches. Finally, my iPhone13 ProMax camera has such a great zoom lens that I can use it to show cracks in shingles to homeowners, without them having to go on the roof.

I also use specialized apps like Company Cam to organize and create reports, and Beatleap to take plain photos and create fun before-and-after videos of completed projects.

Sarah Lechowich Bio

Sarah Lechowich is CEO and founder of True North Roofing and a third-generation exterior contractor in the residential building trades. Previously, Lechowich served as the senior director of Construction Careers Foundation, where she created programs for sustainable wages and positive community impacts.

She has also worked as program director for Trading UP, as a human rights commissioner for the City of Saint Paul, and as an adjunct faculty member with North Hennepin Community College.

Writer Karuna Eberl Bio

Karuna Eberl is a regular contributor to FamilyHandyman.com. She has spent the last 25 years as a freelance journalist and filmmaker, telling stories of people, nature, travel, science and history. She has won numerous awards for her writing, her Florida Keys Travel Guide and her documentary, The Guerrero Project.

Earlier that week, I broke my safety glasses climbing into my pickup. I’m not a fan of tinted safety glasses, so I began researching 100 percent UV protected options for my next pair. In my search I stumbled across Stoggles and decided to give them a try.

What Are Stoggles?

Stoggles are safety glasses molded with Polycarbonate frames and lenses. Polycarbonate is the same material used in bulletproof glass and windows. So, it’s not only strong, but more lightweight and shatter-resistant than acrylic plexiglass and glass itself.

The lenses feature blue-light blocking and 100 percent UV protectant technology, and can be ordered with prescriptions if needed.

All Stoggle’s eyewear is certified and approved by the American National Standards Institution, which makes them Occupational Safely and Health Administration (OSHA) approved as well. They’re sealed with an anti-fog coating, great for wearing with masks or respirators.

The glasses seemed durable and well-made with a classic look to them, similar to something your high school shop teacher might have worn.

How We Tested Them

The only way to test the Stoggles was to wear them in real-world situations. This backyard project proved ideal since it featured sawing, framing, routing, nailing, anchoring and grinding. I was confident these glasses would face every test possible over two weeks.

Performance Review

Performance

The Stoggles were impressive. They feel lightweight and comfortable, even when worn for prolonged days on the jobsite. They did indeed feel durable and well-made.

The side and top shields kept debris out of my eyes, especially during filthy jobs using the router and angle grinder. The all-out UV protection, blue-light blocking technology and safety certifications are welcome perks that offered great peace of mind.

Value

At $40 for a non-prescription pair, the Stoggles aren’t cheap compared to other safety glasses. That’s fine with me.

In my mind, safety glasses are like motorcycle helmets and other essential pieces of personal protective equipment — price is always the last factor to consider. Safety, comfort, THEN price. I’ll never wear a pair of cheap, ill-fitting, sub-par quality safety glasses just to save a few bucks. My eyes are too important, and so are yours.

Reliability and durability

The Stoggles look and feel durable, but I put the durability to the test in a real-life situation. A few times I was careless and tossed them, unprotected, onto the work bench or in my backpack. As I write this, I can honestly say The Stoggles are still free of scratches or scrapes, though I recognize I was “playing with fire.”

After two intense weeks in New Mexico, I’ve become fond of the Stoggles because of their comfort and durability. Since then, I’ve purchased a cheap, hard-sided, protective case to keep them from bouncing around my toolbox, and hopefully they’ll last for ages.

Why you should buy them

If you’re in the market for a comfortable, durable and safe pair of safety glasses with a pinch of classic styling, give the Stoggles a try. They’re available in lots of shapes, sizes and colors to fit any head and compliment any style.

Where to Buy Stoggles

Stoggles are available from the Stoggles store on Amazon.com.

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Over the past few years, I noticed all the big paint manufactures came out with kitchen and bath or bathroom specific paints. The Benjamin Moore Aura Bath & Spa Paint intrigued me the most because of its low luster finish, a traditional no-no in a bathroom setting.  So I decided to give it a try.

What is Benjamin Moore Aura Bath & Spa Paint

Benjamin Moore Aura Bath & Spa is a low luster matte finish paint, specially formulated to repel moisture, stand up to humidity and resist mold and mildew. Aura Bath and Spa comes in thousands of colors and features Benjamin Moore’s own Color-Lock technology for richer and truer colors.

Aura Bath & Spa is more durable than traditional matte finish paints, which are susceptible to scuffs and stains. It also contains no volatile organic compounds, AKA zero VOC. That makes it ideal if you have children, or you’re concerned about potentially harmful off-gassing that takes place as some paints dry.

How We Put It To The Test

Our upstairs bathroom, its dazzle diminished a decade after a renovation, badly needed a refresh. So on an early spring morning I headed down to my local hardware store, picked up a gallon of Aura Bath & Spa paint and got to work.

Performance Review

I’ve been painting a lot lately, so I immediately noticed this paint was different. The Aura Bath & Spa paint has a denser, almost soupy, consistency and a distinctive smell — not toxic or bad, just different. So I checked the can to be sure it was zero-VOC as advertised. Finding the Benjamin Moore Green Promise logo plastered right on the front of the label, I knew it had to be.

After laying drop cloths and completing all appropriate masking and wall repair, I got to painting. Cutting-in was a breeze in this small, World War II era bathroom, though it took some time to make my way around the shower, window, subway tile and light fixtures.

While cutting-in I appreciated the thicker consistency of the Aura Bath & Spa. It brushed out nice and evenly, without any drips. Once I finished cutting in, I used a 1/2-in. nap roller for the first coat because of my uneven plaster walls. Again, when rolling the walls and ceiling, I valued the thicker viscosity of the paint. It went on silky-smooth and with no globs or drips.

Though the Aura Bath & Spa paint is paint-and-primer in one, to me there’s no substitute for the richness and consistency two coats gives a project. After wrapping up my first coat, which took about 40 minutes, I assumed I could go directly back to the ceiling and start my second coat, but I was wrong — it hadn’t dried yet. I wrapped up my brushes and roller and waited another 10 minutes, then 20. Nope, still damp to the touch.

At this point, I did what any sane person would do on their weekend. I ran a few errands and came back an hour later to find dry walls.

The second coat applied beautifully like the first. After clean-up and ample drying time, the bathroom walls looked fresh and bright. The matte finish did an exceptional job of hiding the surface imperfections, an attribute I would endorse for anyone with plaster walls in their bathrooms.

After we moved our soaps, shampoos, lotions and toothbrushes back in and replaced the switch and outlet covers, I was really happy with the Aura Bath & Spa paint. Benjamin Moore has long made high-quality, great-looking paints, and this is no different. But with quality comes cost, and the Aura Bath & Spa paint is not cheap — almost $90 a gallon, a possible dealbreaker for large bathrooms.

Why You Should Buy This

In the end, this project has made me a loyal advocate for Benjamin Moore’s Aura Bath & Spa paint.  Though more costly and time consuming due to its lengthy dry time, I found its durability, distinct bathroom formulation and alluring finished appearance far outweighed any negative characteristics. Try it for yourself and I’ll bet you’ll feel the same way.

Pros

• Durable;
• Minimized surface defects;
• Uncommon matte finish;
• Moisture and mildew resistant;
• Zero VOC.

Cons

• Lengthy dry time;
• Expensive.

Where to Buy Aura Bath & Spa Paint

Benjamin Moore Aura Bath & Spa paint is available at neighborhood Ace Hardware locations. Or order and pick up directly from benjaminmoore.com

Buy Now!

Now on my fourth house, I’m confident I can spot electrical issues before I sign on the dotted line. But it wasn’t always that way. I’m here to talk shop about my first home: what worked, what didn’t and how you can learn from my mistakes.

It’s Never “Just Electrical”

Love the new place, but wish it had a receptacle behind the couch? Don’t forget: Getting electricity to new locations in your home likely means cutting into drywall or drilling through floors.

A receptacle addition at my first house turned into a weeklong drywall project because I didn’t plan ahead. Unless you’re adept at taping and sanding — I was not — and you have plenty of matching paint, you’re looking at added time and expense for your project.

Before committing to any electrical project, ask yourself how much work it will take to put electricity where you want it, and to clean up the mess afterward.

Outdoor Receptacles Are Worth Every Penny

Don’t overlook electricity outdoors, particularly if you’re buying an older home, which often doesn’t have it. (The National Electrical Code didn’t require it until the 1970s.) Holiday lights, garden tools and entertainment systems get more use and enjoyment, and are safer, when not tethered to extension cords.

If your house lacks outdoor receptacles or has only one, consider having some installed or doing it yourself. They’re a relatively inexpensive way to ramp up enjoyment of your outdoor spaces. I’ve never regretted installing them in any house I’ve owned.

If you’re using extension cords outdoors, even temporarily, buy the right one for the job. Don’t use an indoor cord outside, or buy an outdoor cord that’s undersized for your circuit. Outdoor cords come with thick insulation to protect them from sun, water and chemicals, and generally have higher amperage ratings than indoor cords.

Check the Other Bathroom

A friend called in a panic because her downstairs bathroom had lights but no power at the receptacles.

Here’s the thing: The National Electrical Code requires ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection for all bathroom receptacles. A GFCI receptacle, or a GFCI breaker at the electrical panel, can provide protection. You’re also allowed to use one GFCI receptacle to protect another, even if it’s in another room.

Luckily for her, I already learned this lesson the hard way, wandering around my first house for hours, flipping breakers and scratching my head.

Turned out her upstairs bathroom had a GFCI receptacle, which had tripped. She hit the reset button, and bingo! Her downstairs bathroom receptacles had power, and I was a hero.

So if your hair dryer stops working and the breaker didn’t trip, check the other bathroom’s GFCI. Monitor things, though. If the circuit keeps tripping, get it checked out by a pro. It could be a faulty appliance, loose wire or worn insulation. GFCIs protect against electric shock so don’t ignore the warnings.

Invest $20 in Your Safety

I’ve never met a professional electrician who didn’t carry a non-contact voltage tester, but it’s important to have one in your home tool box, too.

In my first house, I decided to replace a light with a ceiling fan. I turned off the breaker, verified the lights were off, and blindly set to disconnecting every wire in the ceiling box. Big mistake. One of the circuits was still energized!

When I cut the still-hot wire, I inadvertently caused a short circuit, which tripped the breaker and scared me half to death. Electricity will find the shortest path to ground, and I could have been that path. Even a small amount of current can be fatal. I was lucky.

A non-contact voltage tester is an inexpensive way to avoid my mistake. Never cut or disconnect any circuits before you verify they’re off.

Here’s how to use it: Hold the tester up to the hot wires in the outlet box. A light will go on, and it will beep. Turn off every circuit in the box, even if you’re not working on all of them, and check the wires again. If the tester beeps again, you know a circuit is still on.

Always check the tester, before and after use, on a known “live” circuit, like the cord of a plugged-in lamp or a receptacle you know works. If it doesn’t react, do not use it. Change the batteries or get a new tester.

Evaluate Your Electrical Panel

The electrical in today’s new construction is tailored for modern technology. Nice, big 150-amp and 200-amp electrical panels to power our many TVs, computers, gaming systems and kitchen gadgets are standard in many new homes. But what if you buy an older house?

I did, and promptly wished I’d been more curious about the electrical panel. Did you know a hard-wired bathroom heater needs a dedicated circuit? I didn’t, either. And I didn’t have room in the panel to add one.

Look closely at the panel. Is it 60 or 100 amps? Are most of the breaker slots full? Do you see any tandem breakers? If you answered “yes” to any of these questions, consider the future costs of adding a subpanel or updating your service before buying.

Start Small

Electrical work can be intimidating. In my first home, the dishwasher broke right after I moved in. I had never installed a dishwasher, but I researched the project and jumped in.

You don’t have to start with a major appliance, though. Change out switch and receptacle covers to add style. Graduate to a light fixture upgrade. Soon you’ll have the confidence to tackle bigger projects.

One final note that, as a pro electrician, I cannot stress enough: Always turn off the circuit at the breaker before starting any electrical project, and make sure no one can turn it on while you’re working. And if you’re not completely comfortable with a project, call a licensed electrician. That’s why we’re here.

To some, painting may seem like the easiest thing in the world. But painting well requires more than just rolling some paint on a wall.

Before painting, start by moving furniture and laying down drop cloths. Then, you’ll need to mask off trim, casings and millwork for a thorough paint job. Next, remove the outlet and light switch covers, and be sure to fill and sand any holes or gouges with spackle. Now, here comes the fun part: we need to cut in.

Of the entire painting process, cutting in is my least favorite. You must be precise and thorough, all the while contorting your body on the floor or up on a ladder. 

With a long overdue repaint of my upstairs bathroom looming, I was excited to try the Purdy XL Cub brush.

What is the Purdy XL Cub?

The Purdy XL Cub brush is a compact edging and cut-in brush, part of Purdy’s versatile, all-around line of brushes. The XL Cub has angled, two-inch wide nylon and polyester brush hairs, recommended for all paints and stains.

At slightly more than eight inches, the compressed size of this brush is the real draw. The stubby, ergonomic handle and the overall slender design feels nimble and natural—a perfect feeling to start a weekend of painting.

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Product Features

The most distinctive feature of this Purdy brush is the short handle, which makes it easier to use in tight spaces. It’s also lightweight to reduce fatigue. We love the medium-stiff bristles on the Purdy XL Cub because it gives you more control. The angular cut is ideal for cutting in and painting trim.

How I Tested it

My bathroom’s plaster walls were in dire need of a fresh coat of paint. I’d put it off because of the daunting amount of cutting in and painting in tight spaces required. It would take some work to edge an entire perimeter of subway tiles, a floor-to-ceiling tile shower, an arch-shaped built-in medicine cabinet, and electrical fixtures and outlets. Phew, I was tired just thinking about it.

I figured this would be the perfect test for the Purdy XL Cub. But I also wanted to try the XL Cub on smooth, non-plaster walls, so I tackled a sheet-rocked bedroom in our finished basement. After completing all the necessary prep work, I got ready for my most hated task—cutting in.

Performance Review

The Purdy XL Cub brush makes painting simple, thanks to its compact design and small ergonomic shape.

The plush, semi-stiff, nylon and polyester bristles were easy to control and held plenty of paint for the finicky cut-in process. The short handle and two-inch angled brush made painting a breeze in tight spaces, like behind the door or around light fixtures.

Paint brushes often feel cumbersome if the brush is too broad or the handle is too long. Not the Purdy XL Cub. Not once did my hand cramp or feel fatigued while painting multiple rooms. Its compressed design and angled brush hairs made this the most comfortable paint brush I can ever remember using.

Pros

• Small handle
• Easy to use
• Ergonomic
• Ideal for tight spaces
• Angled for sharp lines
• Holds paint well
• Easy to clean
• Works with paint or stain

Cons

• Loses bristles according to recent reviews

FAQ

What Purdy brush is the most versatile?

The Purdy XL series is designed to be used with both paint and stain. However, we think the XL Cub is the ideal choice, especially for cutting in.

What type of brush gives the smoothest finish?

A soft bristle brush provides the smoothest finish, whereas a stiff brush creates crisper lines.

How do I choose the right paint brush?

Matching the bristle type to your finish is a starting point. If you need a little help, Family Handyman offers in-depth pointers on choosing a paint brush.

For most projects around the house, Purdy paint brushes are solid choices because they work with both paint and stain. For trim and detail work, an angled brush is your best option.

What Other Reviewers Had to Say

Amazon customer TechVic reviewed his Purdy paint brush, “Very well made brush. Great for brush mark free, clear finishes. Short handle makes it very easy to control. Brush is a good balance between stiff and soft hair.”

The busy Mom of Two says, “A little cashy? Yes, but worth every penny. The only brush I will use for cutting in and trimming. The short handle makes it comfortable in your hand and the quality of the bristles makes it possible to trim without taping. The angled edge is a must have. Totally worth every penny!”

Amazon shopper, Koppinjo claims it’s the best paint brush they’ve ever used. “I have used this paint brush on all the trim in 2 different houses and I have tried similar brushes from other brands. NONE of them come close to giving me the kind of control and finish that the Purdy Brush does. Don’t waste time with anything else! If you’re doing trim or cutting any edges, go with the PURDY!!!!!”

Product Comparisons

There are a wide array of Purdy paint brushes. Some are best suited for latex paint, while others work best for stain or epoxy. Brushes like the Chinex Elite Cub are designed for textured surfaces such as stucco, rough-sawn wood or brick. Purdy offers four handle styles as well as a variety of widths and bristle styles. 

Final Verdict

Paint brushes are straightforward tools. The Purdy XL Cub’s quality materials, comfortable ergonomic shape and superb craftsmanship make it a desirable addition to your painting tool kit. It’s recommended for all paint and stains. If properly stored and cleaned, a Purdy brush will be useful for years to come.

Where To Buy

Purdy paint brushes have a long history of making quality paint brushes and loyal customers.  Try one today, and you’re sure to become a fan too.

The Purdy XL Cub is available at Lowe’s, Walmart, Ace Hardware, and at Amazon.com

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