Figure A

Cutting List

Frame the Reservoir

Cut the reservoir frame sides (A) and ends (B) from 2×2 lumber and fasten the bottom piece of marine plywood (C) to form the base. Align the sides (D) with the ends of the base and fasten them to the 2x2s. Fasten the ends (E) to the 2x2s at the bottom with construction screws. Drive trim screws into the edges of the plywood toward the top.

What Is the Lokby showerhead?

The Lokby showerhead is a telephone-style showerhead like the editor-tested Moen Attract showerhead. What sets this showerhead apart is the eight available spray settings—including built-in power jets. The power jets, located on the top of the showerhead, blast away soap scum and dirt on your skin—and in your bathtub.

Why do shoppers love the Lokby showerhead?

Not only does this showerhead offer high pressure while still remaining eco-friendly thanks to a built-in flow restrictor, but it includes a whopping 57-inch hose that is capable of reaching clear across the bathroom. It’s possible to use the cleaning jet to power-wash your sink, toilet and tiles—no harsh scrubbing and chemicals required.

If your hair or skin suffers from the quality of your water, pair the Lokby showerhead with this editor-tested showerhead filter and enjoy bouncier hair and a clearer complexion. Filtered showerheads remove harsh chemicals and metals that diminish the effectiveness of your showerhead. The best part is that they’re typically compatible with any type of showerhead, including the Lokby showerhead.

Unlike other showerheads, the Lokby showerhead boasts over 15,000 reviews. Customers comment on the lightweight construction and incredible power of the built-in jets.

FAQ

Which type of showerhead is best?

The best showerhead is subjective depending on your family’s needs. It’s worth exploring different types, including LED showerheads that offer lighting in dim bathrooms and smart showerheads that pair with Bluetooth for a custom cleaning experience. Spa showerheads also exist, and they offer a relaxing experience for those who prefer to use their shower to unwind.

Will a better showerhead increase water pressure?

Some showerheads have better water pressure than others. Ultimately, for the best water pressure, ensure you clean your showerhead on a regular basis. If your showerhead becomes jammed with debris and mineral buildup, there are plenty of ways to unclog a showerhead.

If all else fails, it’s easy to replace unusable showerheads. Locate some of the best showerheads by looking at reviews and deciding what features are a dealbreaker for your family.

Do all showerheads fit any shower?

Generally, showerheads are a standard size that fit most showers, so it’s pretty simple to change your showerhead. Some specialty showers, like smart showers, may require a special showerhead to function properly. Always check the specs of your new showerhead to ensure it will fit with your shower’s setup.

Where can I buy the Lokby showerhead?

The Lokby showerhead is available on Amazon for $65. Secure one for only $35 thanks to a generous 45% discount for the eight-setting chrome version. The matte black and brushed nickel colors are also available on sale for 44% off and 43% off, respectively.

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The situation in Colorado’s San Luis Valley, where I flipped a small home several years ago, is different. Nighttime temperatures can drop to -30 degrees in the winter. Builders take pains to insulate every foot of a home’s water line. But at those temperatures, even insulated pipes can freeze.

Some helpful neighbors suggested I let at least one faucet in the house drip at night. But is this a good idea? And does it actually work?

Yes, and yes. Read on to learn why.

Why Does Letting a Faucet Drip Prevent Pipes from Freezing?

Because moving water is less prone to freezing. That’s why flowing streams generally don’t freeze over in the winter, while lakes and ponds do.

Water is the only known non-metallic substance that expands as it freezes. Frozen water is a problem in your plumbing because it can separate copper, PVC and CPVC pipes at the joints and even rupture them altogether. PEX is flexible enough to resist bursting, which is why it’s gradually becoming the default material for residential water pipes.

Water pipes are always full, which is why you get instant water whenever you turn on a faucet. When all the faucets are closed and the water doesn’t move, it stagnates. And stagnant water is more likely to freeze than running water.

Dripping a faucet allows the water to flow just enough to prevent it from stagnating in your pipes. If any water does freeze, the open faucet gives it somewhere to go when it thaws, relieving pressure on the rest of the system.

Does Letting a Faucet Drip Prevent Pipes From Freezing?

Usually, but not always. Your chances of success in places like coastal California, where the temperature hardly ever drops below 25 degrees, are almost guaranteed.

During a frigid winter night in Colorado or Minnesota, however, a small drip may not do the trick. If it’s really cold, it may take a steady stream the width of a pencil to maintain enough flow to prevent freezing. That’s obviously wasteful, and there are better ways to protect your pipes.

First of all, water pipes in extreme climates should be indoors or underground where they can benefit from the ambient warmth. When pipes are buried they should be six inches below the frost line, which varies from region to region, and at least 12 inches below the surface according to the building code. Indoor pipes running along an exterior wall should be wrapped with pipe insulation.

Exposed pipes should be protected with heat cable because pipe insulation by itself won’t prevent freezing, However, if pipe insulation is all you have and temperatures aren’t too extreme, letting the faucet drip can definitely help.

How Much Water Should Drip To Keep Pipes from Freezing?

It doesn’t take much. One drip every few seconds is usually sufficient. If you get your water from a municipal system, a small drip like that shouldn’t cost any more than a few cents per night. But it’s still wasteful, so you might want to catch the water in a bucket so you can use it later.

It’s important to remember to let the cold water drip, not the hot water. The cold water line is the one most in danger of freezing.

The best way to protect all the pipes in the system is to drip the faucet farthest away from the water source. If you’re trying to protect pipes that run through the attic, basement or some other unprotected area, it doesn’t hurt to drip the faucet closest to those pipes as well. If you have a basement sink, dripping that one should take care of the whole house.

Anyone with outdoor water pipes should drain them before winter starts and leave them empty until spring. If you have outdoor spigots on the side of the house and can’t drain them because they’re connected to the main water supply, replace them with frost-free spigots. These have long tubes that reach inside the house to connect to pipes sheltered from the cold, and they drain automatically.

Putting together a network of pipes of different diameters and materials can be like assembling a puzzle. Sometimes you don’t know exactly which fitting to buy until you reach the part of the puzzle where you need it.

Plumbing fittings vary by size, purpose and material. You often must tie together pipes of different materials with transition fittings. The materials in common use today — copper, PVC and CPVC, PEX, ABS, galvanized steel and cast iron — can mostly all be connected to each other with appropriate fittings.

With all the different pipe sizes and materials out there, things can get confusing. Fittings for water lines are different than those for drain and waste lines. It’s no wonder professional plumbers don’t go anywhere without a truck full of fittings. It’s their magic cupboard, letting them complete installations and repairs much more efficiently than amateurs like me.

Water Line Fittings

PEX is quickly becoming the material of choice for water lines. But PVC, CPVC and copper are still in common use, as is galvanized steel outdoors.

Three reasons for PEX’s popularity are its flexibility (it can bend around corners), durability and ease of assembly. You simply push PEX pipes and fittings together rather than gluing (PVC and CPVC), soldering (copper) or screwing them (galvanized steel).

Here are the fittings you’re most likely to need when assembling or repairing water lines:

• Coupler: Joins two lengths of pipe in a straight line. Whenever you cut a pipe during a repair, you’ll need a coupler to put it back together.
• Bend: For changing pipe direction. The most common bend angles are 90 degrees (aka elbows) and 45 degrees. Bends are typically made of the same material as the pipe except for PEX bends, which are brass or hard plastic.
• Tee: Shaped like the letter “T” with two parallel ports and a perpendicular one. It’s used for adding a branch line. When the branch line is a different size than the main one, you can make the connection with a reducing tee.
• Reducing adapter: Another way to join pipes of different diameters. It may be shaped like a bell (common for copper and galvanized pipes) or fit inside the larger pipe (more common for plastic). The first type is a bell adapter, and the second a reducing bushing.
• Union: A type of coupler you can take apart. Its large threaded nut holds together the two halves of the connected pipe. You can use one in place of a coupler in any situation where you temporarily disassemble the pipes.
• Threaded adapter: To join a pipe with a glue or solder slip joint to one with threads, you’ll need a threaded adapter. It can have male or female threads. Threaded adapters join plastic pipes to each other, or copper to itself or to brass.
• Compression fitting: This lets you join plastic or copper pipes without glue or solder. Most feature a ring that fits around the pipe and a nut that tightens onto the fitting, wedging the ring into the gap between the pipe and fitting. Compression fittings allow for easy pipe repair. Most modern faucet and toilet shutoff valves have compression fittings.

Waste and Drain Fittings

Cast iron was a common material for drain pipes in the first part of the 20th century. They’re usually connected with couplers that feature rubber gaskets surrounded by stainless steel sheathing.

These days, most drains are made with PVC or ABS plastic. Plastic drain fittings are usually glued, but the ones you might need to remove temporarily, like cleanout plugs, are threaded.

Here are the most common drain fittings. The list doesn’t include couplers and ordinary bends, because they’re similar to the ones used for water pipes and serve the same purposes.

• Long-sweep elbow: Makes a 90-degree bend in a longer arc than an ordinary elbow to allow water to flow more smoothly. It’s used for connecting vertical drain lines to horizontal ones.
• Straight tee: Performs the same function as tees for water lines, but are seldom used for drain lines. They’re mostly for vents, tying horizontal pipes to vertical stacks.
• Sanitary tee: Aka a santee, this has a sweep on its perpendicular port to promote water flow in the direction of the sweep. Use it to connect a horizontal waste line to a vertical one, but not a vertical one to a horizontal one. That’s the job of the next fitting.
• Wye: Shaped like the letter “Y,” a wye does the same job as a sanitary tee, but with less chance of backflow. This is the fitting you need to connect the vertical drain from your sink or toilet to the sewer. You can also use it to connect a horizontal waste pipe to a vertical one.
• Double wye: As you might expect, this has two inlet ports instead of just one. It’s commonly used for connecting a double-basin sink to a single P-trap.

Transition Fittings

Whether you’re connecting PVC or CPVC pipes to copper, cast iron pipes to ABS or galvanized pipes to copper, you’ll need a transition fitting. In some cases, you can do it by taking two threaded adapters of different materials and screwing them together. But it’s often easier to use an adapter specifically made to couple them, assuming you can find one.

• Plastic-to-copper slip adapter: This fitting has male copper threads on one end and a PVC or CPVC slip joint on the other. After soldering a female thread adapter to the copper pipe, you screw in the adapter and glue the plastic pipe to the slip joint.
• Dielectric union: Used for mating copper or brass to galvanized steel, its insulating washer keeps the pipes electrostatically separated to prevent corrosion. Dielectric unions are commonly used when installing water heaters.
• Cast iron to plastic coupling: These are widely known as Fernco couplings after the company that makes most of them. They consist of a rubber cylinder surrounded by a stainless steel sheath and two or more threaded pipe clamps tightened with a screwdriver.

I spoke to her retired plumber cousin over the phone, and he diagnosed the problem as a clog in the floor drain pipe rather than something more serious. But before she called another plumber for a quick $100+ cleanout, I brought over my recently acquired Cobra Tools Pistol-Grip Power Drum Auger to see if I could break up the clog myself.

What is the Cobra Tools Pistol-Grip Power Drum Auger?

How We Tested It

I bought the Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger because I was sick of standing in ankle-deep water standing in my aging bathtub as I showered. A week later I learned of my mother’s basement floor drain predicament, giving me two worthy tests just days apart.

How it Works

Unclogging drains is a messy job. But with the Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger, I was done in a matter of minutes.

In both cases I attached my cordless drill to the drum auger and plunged the rotary tip of the cable into the depth of the pipe. I didn’t use chemicals at all, so I felt safe operating the drum auger with just some thin rubber gloves and grungy work clothes.

Once I placed the Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger cable down the pipe, I pushed it by hand until I felt resistance from a bend in the pipe or the mass clogging it. With about 10 inches of the cable sticking out of the drain, I kept downward pressure on the pistol grip and slowly feathered the trigger of my cordless drill. This ensured the sharp pointed end of the tip burrowed into the obstruction, or made its way around the bend.

For a clog far down the pipe, the quick lever cable locking switch comes in really handy, since it needs to lock at each obstacle encountered.

Once I found and breached the clog, the backed-up water slowly drained. I learned years ago not to pull out the auger too soon. Instead, I made a couple of extra turns with my drill to ensure it locked into the obstruction. Then pulled the drum auger cable back. This method helps you bring all the debris to the surface. If you don’t, you may find yourself repeating this process a few weeks later.

Ease of Use

Value

Just having a plumber show up at your residence will run you well over a hundred bucks. With the Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger costing less than $40, I can’t imagine why you wouldn’t keep a drum auger on hand to try to break through a stubborn clog. If the clog is too substantial, then call in the professionals.

Pros

• Clears pipes up to three inches in diameter;
• Quick lever cable lock;
• Easy to use;
• Inexpensive;
• Works with any drill.

Cons

• Unclogging drains is a messy task.

Q&As

Q: Is the Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger compatible with any drill?

A: Yes, as long as it features an adjustable chuck.

Q: Can you use this to unclog a toilet?

A: No. This cable may scratch the porcelain. The Cobra Tools Power Drum Auger is best for smaller diameter pipes like sinks, tubs and shower drains.

Final Verdict

Where to Buy

The Cobra Tools Pistol-Grip Power Drum Auger is available at Lowe’s or Ace Hardware.

Buy Now

As you run water down a drain, you’re continuously refilling that trap. This plumbing masterpiece has been in use for about 250 years. Here’s what you need to know about P-traps.

What To Know About P-Traps

P-trap pipes are available in different materials, but the assemblies are similar. Your P-trap can be polypropylene (white or black), ABS (black), PVC (white) or 18-gauge brass (chrome-plated or natural).

Plastic traps come in inside-diameter sizes of 1-1/4-in. for a standard bathroom sink; 1-1/2-in. for a laundry sink, bathtub or standard kitchen sink; and two inches for a shower or floor drain.

If your bathroom sink drains slowly, you may have a clog of hair around the stopper below the drain. Those clogs can usually be removed with a long wire hook.

If the clog is deeper than that, it could be inside the P-trap. The same design that traps water can also trap hair, food and diamond earrings.

To clear the first two, try a plunger; block the sink overflow or other openings before plunging. Drain cleaners can damage fixtures and pipes. A plumbing snake can also clear the trap but won’t retrieve that diamond earring. For that, you may need to disassemble and reassemble a P-trap in your kitchen or bathroom. Here’s how.

If you’re lucky, your sink’s trap has a cleanout nut located on the lowest portion of the bend. You can remove that and clear many clogs. Grab an empty bucket and place it under that nut, then remove the nut and let the contents drain out. If your trap lacks a cleanout nut, you can easily disassemble the trap and find that earring; you might not even need tools.

The P-trap connects the tailpiece at the sink end and the drain line (also called the waste line) at the opposite end. Those connections use slip nuts and beveled cone washers. An older home with metal P-traps might use squared and thick rubber washers with accompanying flat metal washers.

Either way, if you’re taking apart your P-trap to remove a clog, pay close attention to the placement of the washers and reassemble them the same way.

If you’re tackling this job because the P-trap is leaking, it’s best to buy a new PVC P-trap. It will last longer than metal and costs only about $10. If your plumbing is visible — underneath a pedestal sink, for example — you can purchase decorative P-traps.

Remove the P-Trap

If your P-trap was installed properly, you should be able to remove it by hand. A V-jaw tongue-and-groove pliers, sometimes called a water pump pliers, will give you a good grip on slip nuts.

First, grab some rags and place an empty bucket below the trap. Slowly loosen the nut connecting the P-trap on the outflow side. Pay attention to the placement of the washers inside and be ready for water to come out.

You might find the clog in the trap or the union joint. Clean those areas with water and a brush and replace the slip nut washers if the connection shows any sign of leakage — and I hope you found the diamond earring.

Reassemble the P-Trap

To reassemble the P-trap, start by replacing the drain line end, then reconnect the tailpiece to the sink. Keep any slip nut connections loose for now.

Connect the sink side of the P-trap to the tailpiece and position the drain line end to align with the drainpipe. That drainpipe slides into the wall with some adjustability for length, easing the final connection to the P-trap. Each beveled washer is placed so the large end contacts the slip nut. When tightened, a slip nut eases the washer into a leak-free connection.

Do not use plumbing tape or putty on any of these connections. Some plumbers use plumber’s grease on threaded connections, but that’s not necessary. Tighten all the connections by hand. If you overtighten them, you risk distorting the washer or cracking the pipe.

Once all the fittings are secured, run two tests. First, turn on the tap and run water through the sink while inspecting the P-trap connections for leaks. Second, fill the sink basin with a couple of inches of water, then remove the drain plug and let the water flow through the trap.

If you have a leak, loosen the slip nut where the leak appears, inspect the placement of the washers, then reinstall. Most leaks happen because a washer is installed incorrectly, or because a slip nut is threaded improperly or overtightened.

Simple P-Trap Option

Designed to make installation even easier, the Insta-Plumb from Keeney costs about $15 at home centers and hardware stores. Its hero features are the push-connect fittings where this P-trap connects to the sink and the drain. They eliminate the need to align a cone washer or properly thread and tighten a slip nut.

Inside each fitting there’s an O-ring and a locking ring. A release collar at the top of each fitting secures the connection. To undo a fitting, compress the release collar and disconnect the pipes. No tools necessary.

The Insta-Plumb is available in 1-1/4-in. and 1-1/2-in. P-trap sizes. For small cabinets with hard-to-reach pipes and P-traps, it can ease installation and service work. The system is approved in most plumbing codes, but check in your area. The Insta-Plumb is for use with drainpipes, not pipes under pressure or potable water pipes.

Rhonda, a friend who lives in San Rafael, California, never thought about her shutoff valve until she had to replace the leaking angle stop on her toilet. Unable to find the main valve, she assumed she didn’t have one and had to turn the water off at the street.

Not only did she need to purchase a special tool to do that, the street valve was stuck. She ended up calling the city water department and waiting five days for the workers to arrive. By then, her bathroom had flooded so much it required a new floor covering.

Rerouting your home’s main water shutoff is not complicated. It doesn’t even call for removing the old valve, which you can simply leave open and forget about. The old valve provides a way to shut off the water to allow you to install the new one.

What Is a Water Shutoff Valve?

A water shutoff valve stops water flow. Some houses have more than one, each controlling a section of the plumbing system, such as a single bathroom or the kitchen. Faucets and toilets each have their own. The plumbing code requires a main one to stop water to the entire house, including outdoor spigots and sprinklers.

The main shutoff is usually a 3/4-inch gate or ball valve installed on the main cold water pipe. Gate valves look like outdoor spigots with spoked handles that must be turned several times to stop the water. Ball valves feature levers that rotate only through 90 degrees. The handles are sometimes red or blue. If you have an old one, it may not be painted, which makes it more difficult to find.

In homes with more than one shutoff valve, the main one probably looks like the branch valves. Its most distinguishing characteristic is its placement, always near the point where the 3/4-inch main water line enters the house. The main water line usually comes from underground.

If the house has no basement, the main valve is often just above ground level in the crawl space. That’s usually because it was convenient for the plumbers roughing in the water pipes.

Reasons To Reroute a Water Shutoff Valve

The main reason for rerouting your main water shutoff is to improve access. There are a few important reasons for doing this:

• Rerouting the valve from outdoors or the crawl space to the laundry room makes it easier to access. An accessible shutoff valve is easier to find and operate. That way you can undertake minor plumbing tasks like fixing leaks yourself to save on plumbing fees.
• In the event of a major leak or a natural disaster, you can prevent costly water damage to your house by quickly and easily shutting off the water.
• When you go on vacation in the winter, you can turn off the water and drain your system to prevent your pipes from freezing and bursting while you’re away.

Direct Installation or Bypass Loop

You can often install a new shutoff valve without installing new plumbing pipes. If the main water line comes through the floor and the shutoff is under the floor, just cut into the pipe above the floor and install a new valve.

If your water meter and shutoff valve are buried in a covered box in the yard, simply find where the pipe enters the house and follow it to the water heater. A point just before the main line branches into hot and cold (usually just before the water heater) is generally a great place for the main shutoff.

When the plumbing configuration doesn’t allow for accessible placement of the shutoff valve, you may opt to install a bypass loop you or a plumber can construct with plumbing pipe.

Cutting out a section of the main supply line and replacing it with a pipe loop puts the valve in an easy-to-reach place, such as the laundry room or behind a panel in the bathroom. Instead of flowing through the section of pipe you remove, water flows through the loop. And the valve, usually at the top of the loop, can stop it.

You can install a bypass loop with copper or CPVC, but it’s easiest with PEX pipe. After soldering or gluing appropriate adapters to the existing pipe, you basically snap on flexible PEX tubing and run it under floors or behind walls to the place where you need the valve. As long as the diameter of the PEX pipe matches the exiting pipe, water pressure should be unaffected.

PEX Tubing

Copper and galvanized steel water pipes are so last century. PEX (cross-linked polyethylene) is the water pipe material of the future. It’s bendable, a snap to assemble (literally) and even comes in blue and red so you can tell the hot water pipes from the cold ones. PEX is much cheaper than copper and on a par with PVC, another plastic material with a future.

Today, PEX is the material of choice for new water system installations, and it can also be tied into existing copper systems. One of the main drawbacks of PEX is that it isn’t rated for exterior above-ground use, so landscapers usually use polypropylene or PVC. Another problem: PEX fittings are more expensive than metal or PVC fittings.

Showers

Without a doubt, remodeling your shower can give your bathroom the spa look. It’s also one of the most expensive parts of your bathroom to remodel. However, there are ways to improve your shower without spending a fortune.

Replacing old, outdated shower curtains with a glass panel will instantly change the look of the room. The glass will make the room feel bigger and more upscale. Glass panels can range anywhere from a couple of hundred dollars to more than $1,000, so there’s flexibility with how extravagantly you want to go.

Another option: Switch out the showerhead. A rain shower head provides a much more luxurious look and improves your shower experience. Some shower heads cost as little as $20 but still offer that same high quality as the more expensive alternatives. If you’re looking for a higher end option, try updating your bath to a wet room bathroom.

Bathtubs

A full tub replacement is a big financial decision, but opting for a modern clawfoot tub will go a long way toward achieving that spa look. A new clawfoot tub costs between $500 and $1,500. Budget more for labor if you don’t plan to DIY.

Out of your price range? No problem. Little additions like bath neck pillows, a bubble massager and a bamboo bath tray provide more affordable alternatives to a full tub replacement.

Sinks/Vanities

A new bathroom vanity can make a huge difference. For a spa look, consider a wall-mounted vanity with a vessel sink. You can purchase one, like this option on Wayfair, or DIY a bathroom vanity.

Mirrors

Go outside of the norm with your bathroom mirror. A mirror with LED lights or one that’s a non-traditional shape can be a focal point of your bathroom. So get creative and pick something that fits with the rest of your room’s spa vibe.

Products

You might not even need to buy anything new to get a simple spa feel; you have some of these products in your home. Candles, magazines and low lighting are all great ways to set the mood for a relaxing spa experience. Feel free to add bath bombs or whatever else you like to take it whole other level.

Troubleshooting The Problem

• Start by lifting the lid off the top of the toilet tank and peeking inside.
• The nut that holds the handle onto the tank could be loose or too tight. See Step 1.
• The threads on the nut or the handle housing could be stripped. See Step 2.
• The handle arm could be cracked or broken off. See Step 3.
• The chain from the handle arm to the flapper could be disconnected or broken. See Step 4.

Loose Handle

• If the handle is loose, tighten the nut and washer on the inside of the tank with a pair of pliers. Do not overtighten the nut. You could strip the threads or, worse, crack the porcelain tank.
• If the handle is stuck down in the flush position, it may not be installed properly. Loosen the nut washer, reposition the handle so it is parallel with the top edge of the tank and re-tighten the nut.

• First, shut off either the hot- and cold-water supply valves at the sink or the main water valve for the whole house.

Blowing the water out of the irrigation lines is a crucial part of home maintenance. Once the temperatures start falling, water left in the lines can freeze and burst, costing you a lot of money in repairs. Every landscape service company has different charges which vary by location. In Minnesota, prices average around $80 to have your sprinkler system blown out each fall. That can add up.

Winterizing Your Own System

It’s possible to blow out your system if you have the right equipment. First, you’ll need an air compressor. And it has to have enough volume to do it right.

In my situation, I had the air compressor, but no easy way to hook it up to the system. Some systems have air compressor fittings or blow out ports to hook up directly. Mine does not. I purchased the following parts to create my own blow out port:

1. 1-in. x 3/4-in. PVC Schedule 40 Reducer Bushing ($1.97);
2. 1/2-in. x 4-in. PVC riser (64 cents);
3. 1/2-in. x 1/4-in. Galvanized Malleable Iron FPT x FPT Reducing Coupling ($2.28);
4. 1/4-in Full Port Ball Valve ($8.38);
5. 1/4-in. x 1/4-in. Male to Male Industrial Plug quick coupler ($1.41).

Connecting the Parts

Connect the above parts in order, securing them with thread seal tape. My system has a one-inch plug hole that connects to the device.

To blow out the water, charge up the air compressor and hook it up to the quick coupler end (make sure to close the ball valve). Once charged, open the valve and blow out each zone, one at a time until mist comes from the sprinkler heads. Close the valve in between each zone to charge up the compressor.

Several companies make devices for this purpose, but the ones I found only had 3/4-in. hookups. These devices are made for blowing out the water lines in RVs. I couldn’t find a device that would work at my local home store, so I assembled the above parts.

Test for the kitchen sink drain leak

Fill up the sink with water and touch a facial tissue between the bottom of the kitchen sink drain and the sink. If the tissue picks up any water, you’ve got a leaky basket strainer and it’s time to learn how to remove a sink drain.

Kitchen Sink

Clogged sink drain? With a few inexpensive tools and a little practice you can clear up all but the most stubborn drain clogs in less than an hour. Save yourself the plumbing service call and unclog your kitchen sink drain yourself by following our step-by-step instructions.

Translation: Use dope (pipe thread sealant) on plastic, rubber or metal, on washers, rings or gaskets, and especially, on anything that has threads.

Even if the threads don’t actually form the seal (as on washing machine hoses), they screw together easier and come apart easier later. And things that don’t really require sealant (like compression fittings) slip together smoothly and seal tighter with a little dope.

My favorite thread sealants contain Teflon. Be sure to choose a non-hardening product, and READ THE LABEL. Some sealants can wreck plastic or rubber parts. My thread sealant of choice is Rectorseal’s T Plus 2.

– Gary Wentz, Senior Editor

Here are a few plumbing resources from The Family Handyman:
– How to glue and join PVC pipe
– Fix a water shutoff valve leak

Here’s what you can do to maintain your home all year long.

Painting Your Home 

One of the most common home renovation projects you may consider within the first year of moving into your new space is painting your room or multiple rooms. We’ve included some tips and techniques on how to paint different parts of your house — including the living room, as well as girls’ and boys’ bedrooms — and also offer some ideas on which colors might set just the tone you’re looking for.

Window Treatments 

When you move into your new home, you’ll want just the right coverage on your windows to illuminate or darken your rooms while at the same, show off your own sense of style. Whether you’re looking for curtains for your living room or smart blinds for your bedroom, here are some inspirational ideas on how you can liven up your windows in an artful way.

Insulation  

No matter what season it is, it’s important for you to make sure that you have proper insulation in your house. Learn about the different insulations types for your attic and how to prevent frozen pipes during the cold season.

Landscaping  

What your home looks like on the outside is just as important as what it looks like on the inside. Whether you have a small or large yard, we have a variety of landscaping ideas that’ll shape the look and feel of your home. If you’re a gardener, you should consider soil testing the areas of your yard where you plan on growing plants and/or vegetables.

Upgrades and Replacements  

What are some DIY jobs you can tackle when an appliance or part of your home system breaks down? Learn some of the basics — from how to fix a doorbell to replacing a lightbulb when it goes out.

Maintenance 

Home maintenance doesn’t have to be a burden if you stay on top of problems when they arise. Whether you’re checking your sump pump, installing new smoke alarms, or caulking windows, there’s always something to do to ensure your home is healthy and up to code. Consider creating a home maintenance checklist for every season.

Annual

Year-round home maintenance is crucial if you don’t want to end up paying for a big repair. As a first-time buyer, we have a beginner’s guide to home maintenance so you’ll know the ins and outs on checking items like smoke alarms, water pressure and cleaning out your air conditioning units.

Electrical Safety Checks Video

Seasonal

Every season brings different home maintenance responsibilities. For winter maintenance, you obviously need to check if your heating systems are ready to go and that you don’t have any air leaking through your windows. For spring maintenance, make sure your home is free of pests — especially cockroaches — and take time to do exterior woodwork, roof inspections and to check your sprinkler systems. For summer maintenance, keep your cooling systems in check and schedule any major outdoor projects then. And last but not least, fall maintenance can involve anything from aerating the soil, cleaning your gutters to cleaning your chimney.

Monthly

Here are some helpful home maintenance tips that you should do every month to keep your systems in good standing.

Basic Projects for New Homeowners

If you’re new to the DIY world, we’ve got you covered! Learn how to start a garden, repair a broken pipe, fix an appliance or even use a leaf blower. Whether you’re doing something as common as painting a room or learning the more involved steps of fertilizing your lawn, tackling these types of projects will build your confidence and equip you to be a more informed and seasoned homeowner.

• How to Prune Your Garden: Spring is an ideal time for getting rid of the unwanted parts of your plants, but you can also prune during the early summer and late fall months. Think of yourself as a sculptor as you shape your plants, make room for new growth and keep your garden healthy.
• How to Repair Your Office Chair: Does your office chair need fixing? If your chair doesn’t bounce or has a hard time rolling, all you need is some basic tools and parts to rebuild it.

Basic Tools to Use

With all the projects on your list, you’re going to need some basic tools to get the job done right. If have plans to build a deck or some other substantial project, you’ll need an impact drill. Boring holes in wood or metal? Then you’ll want to purchase a drill press. For chores that help keep the exterior of your home clean and tidy, look into a pressure washer to clean off old paint and a leaf blower to maintain your landscaping.

More New Homeowner Tips and Information

Here are some additional tips and information that could help best prepare you to make the right decisions as a new homeowner — from checking your electrical and HVAC systems, compiling a list of contractors for needed repairs and creating an inventory of all your valuable assets you’ll be moving in with.

New Homeowner Products

There’s no shortage of things you could buy for your new house. It’s a list that could get long and very expensive pretty quickly. The key here is to focus in on what you need. Use this list for guidance and know what to avoid.

New Homeowner Resources 

If you have any questions on products that you’re considering purchasing for your home, these national home improvement chains are tried-and-true resources.

If you enjoyed this content, sign up for our new homeowner newsletter where we’ll guide you through the exciting journey of what to do before you purchase your dream house as well as give you expert tips and projects to help you make that new house a true home.

A sump pump is one of the most important (and most ignored) disaster prevention devices in a home. When this simple system fails, the results can be catastrophic, leading to thousands of dollars in damage, daily disruptions caused by major repair work and higher insurance premiums for years to come. So spending some time and money on avoiding failure makes a lot of sense. Here find out how long sump pumps last.

Some homeowners keep a replacement pump on hand in case their pump dies. That’s a good idea (home centers often sell out of pumps during storms or floods). But having a replacement handy won’t help you if you’re on vacation during a power outage or if your pump dies while you’re slumbering through a stormy night. That’s the beauty of sump pump backup systems: No matter what the reason for the pump failure, a backup system will save the day. In this article we’ll show you the options.

What causes primary pumps to fail?

The most common reason for pump failure is a power outage, not some problem with the pump itself. Common events besides power outages can also cut off the supply of electricity. For example, lightning can trip GFCI outlets, or someone can unplug the pump and forget to plug it back in.

Assuming the power stays on, sometimes the pump itself fails. Many inexpensive sump pumps are simply too small to handle the flow from a major downpour or rapid snowmelt. And because inexpensive pumps are built with less durable materials, they lose pumping efficiency. So the pump runs more often and burns out early. Or the motor runs but the pump doesn’t eject water.

Float switches are also a frequent cause of pump failure. “Wide angle” tethered float switches, the kind that free-float around the sump basket, are the biggest troublemakers. They swirl around the sump basket, making them far more likely to get trapped against the pump, discharge pipe or power cord. Once trapped, they can’t switch on the pump. Inexpensive switches can also simply wear out or cause motor burnout.

Battery backup sump pump systems

Battery system components

A sump pump battery backup consists of a battery, a battery-powered pump, a charger and additional piping.

Manufacturers of battery backup systems usually sell three models: good, better and best, with “best” costing three times as much as “good”. The “best” units come with a larger battery and a more sophisticated battery charger. The larger battery gives you a longer run-time, and the better charger prolongs the life of the battery.

So how long will a battery backup system keep your basement dry? That depends on how much water is entering your sump basket (which determines how often the pump will run). Here’s an example: one manufacturer’s system comes with a 40-amp/hour battery that’s projected to last up to 53 hours (pumping at the rate of 2,300 GPH once every five minutes). But, if you have serious water problems such that the pump runs once a minute, that same battery will last only 12 hours. That’s hardly enough battery capacity to get you through an extended power outage. In that case, buy a system with a larger battery, or a system with a charger large enough to keep two batteries fully charged.

If you have minor seepage and rarely experience power outages, you’re probably safe buying a less expensive battery backup system. Then again, that savings could cost you big-time if just one 100-year storm knocks out your power and turns a sump trickle into a flood.

Advantages of battery backup systems

• • Simple installation—connect to existing discharge pipe or run a separate pipe
  • Unlike water-powered systems, battery backup systems work when there’s no water supply

Disadvantages

• Battery may run down before power comes back on
• Battery water levels must be checked every few months
• Battery terminals must be cleaned twice a year
• Battery must be replaced every five years (and costs about $100).

Water-powered backup

Above-sump backup pump

An above-sump backup unit has less chance of drinking water contamination and uses a less expensive type of backflow preventer.

In-sump backup pump

An in-sump water-powered pump always has water in it, and requires a more expensive type of back-flow preventer.

A water-powered backup pump uses water pressure to siphon water out of your sump. Most use 1 gallon of city water for every 2 gallons of sump water they remove. So a pump that’s capable of removing 1,500 GPH will use 750 GPH of city water. And that’s created a lot of controversy. In fact, a few municipalities prohibit their use due to already severe water shortages. So check with local ordinances before buying a water-powered sump pump. In an area with high water costs, the water bill can run as high as $170 a day. But keep that in perspective. If your power goes out for a couple of days, you’d happily pay a $300 water bill to avoid a flood.

Water-powered pumps require at least 40 psi and a 3/4-in. feed line to achieve maximum pumping rates. And they require a separate drain line and some type of backflow prevention to prevent cross-contamination with potable water.

Water-powered pumps come in two styles: in-sump and above-sump. An in-sump pump (one choice is the Liberty No. SJ10 SumpJet pump, available through our affiliation with Amazon.com) is always immersed in drain water, which raises the risk that drain water could contaminate the drinking water supply. To prevent that, most local codes require the installation of an expensive reduced pressure zone (RPZ) backflow prevention valve. RPZ valves must be professionally installed and tested annually by a licensed plumber. That adds an annual cost to the system. So check with your local building inspection department before you buy an in-sump system.

An above-sump unit mounts well above the sump, which reduces the risk of drinking water contamination (one choice is the Basepump RB750-EZ; sold at Amazon.com). Therefore, many plumbing inspectors require only a less expensive atmospheric vacuum breaker (AVB).

Advantages

• • No limit to run-time; works as long as you have water pressure
  • No battery replacement costs
  • No routine maintenance

Disadvantages

• If you have a well, this setup won’t work during a power outage
• More difficult installation because it requires a new water line, backflow preventer and new drain line
• Annual fee for RPZ valve testing (if required by local code)
• May be expensive to run in areas with high water costs

Generator-powered sump pump

During a power outage, a generator can pay for itself in a dozen ways. One of those ways is powering a sump pump. A typical sump pump draws about 9 amps, so it won’t add much load to the generator. But a generator isn’t a perfect substitute for a backup system. A battery- or water-powered system kicks in automatically, whether you’re home or not and no matter what the failure. A portable generator works only if you’re around to connect it. And a generator (standby or portable) won’t help if your primary sump pump is kaput.

Know when your pump is dead

Too often, homeowners don’t discover a sump pump failure until they see the damage. But there are ways to avoid that:

If you buy a new AC sump pump run by a controller, it’ll have some type of alarm to let you know if the pump fails or the power goes out. The same holds true for most new battery-powered systems.

• Local Alarm. Detects water at the top of the sump basket using either a probe or a float and sounds an audible alarm (such as the BWD-HWA Basement Watchdog Water Sensor and Alarm; available through our affiliation with Amazon.com). Local alarms are great if someone is home at the time of the failure.
• Verbal Message Via Landline. Detects water at the sump and dials a preprogrammed phone number and plays a recorded message (one choice is the Control Products WA-700 WaterAlarm Dialer; from Amazon.com). Also sounds an audible alarm. Must have a landline.
• Text Messaging. Detects water at the sump and sends a text to three different cell phones. Search “high water text notification” for companies that provide this service.

Toilet Tune-Ups

The toilet is arguably the most important seat in the house. If your toilet isn’t flushing well, don’t just live with it! You can probably fix the problem in less than 30 minutes. We’ve put together nine simple tips to help you get the best possible flush every time.

Installing a Pool

A new pool is a great way to beat the summer heat and have friends and family gather at your home. However, pools come with certain expenses, including your insurance. Homeowners are liable for anyone using their pool, and that means a bump in the cost of your home policy, according to Value Penguin.

Here’s a list of some of the most essential products, tools and other supplies you’ll need as you settle into your new house.

Home Renovations

While it’s generally a good idea to wait a year and get to know your house before you start knocking down walls and undertaking major renovations, projects like painting or hanging ceiling fans are an easy way to personalize and make your new home even more comfortable.

• Paint rollers. Faster and easier than using a brush when there’s a lot of wall space to cover, rollers are how you’ll do most of your painting.
• Paint brushes. You will still need paint brushes for trim, corners, and more. There’s a different brush for every job, so it’s essential to get exactly what you need.
• Paint remover and stripper. There will most likely be some old paint to remove before you put a new color on the wall.
• Paint. Before you buy paint, you’ll have to choose a color. There are a few different routes to take here, whether you’re choosing inspiration from things in your house or going with the latest trends.
• Additional painting supplies. Don’t forget to pick up some painter’s tape, a bucket or two, drop cloths, and whatever else that will help you do the job.
• Spackle. You may put a few dents in the wall while moving in, or you might need to repair some holes the previous owner left before painting.
• Smart light bulbs. If you plan on setting up your home with smart technology, one of the most common ways to utilize this feature is through your lighting.
• Ceiling fans are a must. Not only do they make an attractive addition to any room, but they also make your house more energy efficient, helping to cool it in the summer and get the heat flowing in the winter. Ceiling fans are easy to install yourself, too.

DIY Projects

Homeowner Tools

You will need some tools to take care of your new home.  Start with these three essential tools: a tape measure, a multi-utility knife, and an easy-to-store ladder. You’ll find that these are the things you’ll use over and over again. In addition to those, we also recommend:

• Cordless drill
• Pipe wrenches
• Hammer
• Extension cord
• Furnace filters
• Pest control

Tool Advice

Kitchen and Bathroom Supplies

Most families end up spending as much time in the kitchen as any room in the house, so it’s important to get your kitchen organized so you can make the most use of it. And you’ll obviously want your bathroom to be as comfortable as possible, too. Here are a few suggestions for what you’ll need.

• Pull-out trash can
• Drawer and shelf liner
• Countertop storage
• Silverware organizer
• Pot rack
• Spice rack
• Shower curtain rod
• Plunger
• Bidet attachment
• Bathroom drawer organizers
• Above-the-toilet storage

Kitchen and Bathroom Tips and Hints

Appliances

In most cases, your new house will already have all the appliances you need. However, it’s not unusual for the previous owner to have taken the washer and dryer with them, in which case you’ll need to get your own.

• Washer and dryer
• Mini fridge

Appliance Advice

Lawn Care

A lush lawn will have you spending a lot more time outdoors. It might even make you the envy of the neighborhood. But all that green grass is going to require some care and maintenance. 

• A lawn mower will likely be one of the bigger purchases you make as a new homeowner, so it’s important to get the right mower for your needs. A zero turn mower will make quick work out of a big yard. You’ll never have to worry whether or not you have enough gas with this electric riding mower from Ryobi, which can take care of two acres on a single charge. And for most yards, a self-propelled walk-behind mower is all you need.
• Garden hose
• Leaf blower
• A full kit of gardening tools like shovels, rakes, clippers and more are handy whether you’re a budding master gardener or just keeping on top of the maintenance.

Lawn Care DIY

Outdoor Living

There’s nothing better than kicking up your heels and relaxing in the backyard after a long day, or even a short one. Therefore, you’ll want to get your patio or outdoor living space set up just right.

• Whatever you like to eat, it’s going to taste better when it’s cooked outside. Whether you want a gas grill, a pellet smoker grill, or a charcoal grill, there are plenty of options.
• Patio furniture
• Hammock
• Hot tub
• Wind chimes (or smaller wind chimes if you’re worried about bothering the neighbors).

Backyard DIY Projects

Cleaning Supplies

Sorry, you’re going to have to clean your house. However, if you follow a few simple cleaning tips and use the right equipment, it’ll be easier than you think. Here’s what you need to get started.

• Stick vacuums have evolved into a tool for the whole house, and they won’t take up much room in your storage closet. If you have pets, you’ll definitely want a vacuum with some extra power. Robot vacuums are a nice accessory to help save time and keep on top of messes before they get out of hand.
• Mop kit
• Broom and dustpan
• Eco-friendly cleaning products
• Stain remover

Cleaning Tips

Storage

You don’t want to live out of boxes forever. Having the right storage solutions for your home makes it easy to unpack.

• Bookshelves
• DIY bookshelf plans
• Bookshelves for kids’ rooms
• Storage totes and containers
• Shoe storage 

Organization Tips

Design and Décor

After moving in and unpacking, the next step is dialing in your interior design. Even if you choose to wait to fully launch into the interior design while you paint or decide on renovations, you will at least want some basic furniture and accessories to start enjoying your new home right away. Remember as you get started that quality furniture can last a lifetime if you take good care of it.

• Welcome mat
• Curtains
• Smart blinds
• Fireplace tools
• Sectional or couch
• Dining table for small spaces
• TV stand
• Television

Design and Décor Tips

Garage

Your garage is for more than just cars. It’s a workshop and the place where your adventures begin. But you’ll want to get it organized so that it’s not a cluttered mess keeping you from doing the things you want.

• Parking sensor
• Bike rack
• Garage organizers for everything from tools to sporting goods

Garage Organization Tips

Home Security

Home security is more than just keeping your home safe from unwanted intruders — though that’s important, too — it’s also about preventing and being prepared for emergencies.

• Hide-a-key
• Wireless security system
• Flashlight
• Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors
• Fire extinguisher
• Smart locks
• Mold test kit

Safety Tips

If you enjoyed this content, sign up for our new homeowner newsletter where we’ll guide you through the exciting journey of what to do before you purchase your dream house as well as give you expert tips and projects to help you make that new house a true home.

Insulated chase

Surround the pipes on all four sides with 2-inch rigid insulation, then create an inlet and an outlet for warm air at each end of the chase. Keep air flowing with a small duct fan.

How to keep pipes from freezing in crawl space: Duct booster fan

A small duct booster fan will keep warm air flowing through the pipe chase.

For starters, forget about using fiberglass or the foam pipe insulation sold at home centers. At best, it provides an insulation value of R-3.8. That’s not enough to prevent frozen pipes during extended cold periods. Plus, it’s difficult to install on existing pipes, especially when the pipes run along the length of a floor joist. So we put our heads together and came up with a solution that can be adapted to most crawlspaces. One of the editors also used this fix to successfully insulate freeze-prone pipes on an outside wall.

Here’s how it works: Build a duct system around the pipes with 2-inch thick rigid extruded polystyrene foam (R-10). It works by drawing heated household air through the foam duct and back into the house. Start by locating a spot near the pipes on one end of the crawl space near a wall and cut a 5 x 10-inch hole in the floor above. This exhaust hole should be near an electrical outlet. Cut another hole at the far end of the pipes to fit a conventional floor vent — the size is up to you.

Next, construct the duct by running the foam down a few inches below the pipes to create enough room for airflow. Glue the lengths together with foam construction adhesive and pin them with screws or nails until the adhesive sets up. Crosscut individual foam pieces to “cap off” any open joist areas. Cutting is easy with a circular or table saw.

Use the same method to encase vertical riser pipes and pipes that run along the length of a joist. Once all pipes are enclosed, glue on end caps.

Buy a duct booster fan (available in the HVAC department at home centers) and place it over the exhaust vent. Run the fan full time at low speed during freezing weather (that’ll only cost a few dollars per month).

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools]

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

Do you live in an old home? If so, have you noticed two mysterious galvanized pipes sticking out of the ground in your yard? Those small, galvanized pipes are signs of something much bigger below the ground!

Here’s why old homes have a tiny iron door leading to the basement.

While natural gas and electricity power most furnaces today, many pre-1970s homes had fuel-oil powered furnaces and with that came an underground fuel oil tank. Evidence of this reveals itself in that pair of galvanized steel pipes sticking out of the ground within a couple feet of each other. Beneath, an abandoned fuel oil tank lurks.

Many old homes have perplexing features that baffle their modern-day owners. Here we’ve solved 15 of those mysteries!

If the pipes are still intact, one will have a mushroom-shape cover (this was the vent pipe), while the other has a hinged flap on top (this was the fill pipe). However, in many cases, the top pieces are long gone, so you may simply see two old pipes with threaded ends.

When the pipes are right next to each other, the fuel oil tank was likely located within the house. If separated from each other, there’s probably still a buried fuel oil tank in the yard.

Here’s why old homes have random toilets in the basement.

An old fuel oil tank in the basement takes up space and is pretty big job to remove, but a buried tank is a much bigger problem. The buried tank could still have oil in it, and a rusted tank shell could allow contamination of the surrounding soil. An empty tank is of concern as well, since the rust-through shell could collapse, causing the soil to cave in around it.

If you have a buried tank in your yard, it needs to be removed or filled in place. If you have a tank located inside the house, it should be disassembled and removed. Contact you local residential building inspector’s office for recommendations regarding tank removal.

Ready to modernize? Here are 10 ways to take advantage of new technology in your old house.

When to use Type L and Type M copper pipe sizes

Type L copper pipe is recommended where you need strength and protection. But for normal “in the wall” household plumbing, Type M copper pipe is just fine.

You may be surprised to find two types of copper pipe on the home center shelf, Type L and Type M. The difference is the wall thickness of the copper pipe sizes and therefore the pressure it can handle. The exterior dimensions are identical, meaning you use the same copper fittings. You also use the same tools, materials and techniques to cut and sweat them. The beefier Type L is often used underground, in hot water heating systems, for commercial plumbing and for gas line (where permitted). Most plumbers use the less-expensive Type M for residential projects: One told me, “Type L pipe will last 300 years and Type M only 250.” But check with your building inspector; some areas require Type L.

Acidic water with a pH of 7 or less can be hard on copper pipe. If you have a well and find out from testing that the water is acidic, you may want to use the thicker-wall Type L pipe; better yet, use “plastic” CPVC pipe and fittings. Note that most “city water,” even in areas of the country where the water is acidic, is balanced to eliminate this problem.

But according to veteran plumber Charlie Avoles, the best alternative to copper is PEX (flexible plastic pipe). “We’re seeing that many properties of PEX are actually tougher than copper, and PEX doesn’t appear to get fragile with age and exposure to ultraviolet light like CPVC does.”

That's Not PEX

Shut off the Water

Slice Through Metal With an Arc Blade

Lenox has a curved recip blade in its diverse lineup of tool blades. The curve helps change the angle of attack on every stroke, which speeds up cutting. It’s similar to the orbital action on many reciprocating saws. These blades are not intended for precise scrollwork—they’re most useful when you have a whole bunch of aggressive cuts to make. Lenox Gold Power Arc Curved Blades are available online.

Shop Now

Power to the Faucet

There are many different styles and brands of touchless faucets on the market today. They all have one thing in common – they need a power source to operate. That means you need to purchase a faucet that is battery-operated or have a 120-volt AC outlet under your sink to power your faucet.

This American Standard NexGen Selectronic touchless faucet has a five-year battery life. You can also add on a 10-year battery pack that mounts under the sink.

Turn Off Water

• First, either shut off hot- and cold-water supply valves at the sink or shut off the main water valve for the whole house.

Monday is Our Busiest Day

That’s the day many call us to correct whatever DIY plumbing project went south over the weekend. Another crazy busy day is the day after Thanksgiving. Thanks to the big meal enjoyed at large family gatherings, sink and toilet pipes take a beating — and plumbers are often called in the next day.

If you’ve got a septic system at your house, then you’ve probably picked up some advice about managing that system that simply isn’t true. Here are the five top septic system myths dispelled.

Septic Myth #1: Pump-Outs Are Unnecessary

The truth is, having a septic tank pumped every two or three years is the best and most economical way to keep your system working.

The no-pump myth comes from companies selling septic additives. The claim is that adding secret microbes and enzymes to the system can foster complete sewage digestion, eliminating the need to have the tank pumped every few years.

It’s an attractive idea, but risky and based mostly on hope. How do you know indigestible sludge isn’t building up to dangerous levels in your tank as you opt for no pump-outs, year after year?

And besides, is there really an additive that can cause the complete digestion of hair, lint, fingernail clippings, fat and all the other indigestible materials that build up on the floor of a septic tank?

Pump-outs are the only way to ensure that damaging levels of indigestible solids are not rising to the level of the tank outlet and flowing out to clog your system’s leaching pipes.

Septic Myth #2: It Doesn’t Matter What You Put Down the Drain

It actually matters a great deal what you put into a septic system.

While it’s true that septics can be quite reliable and easygoing, putting poisons such as drain cleaner, disinfectants and solvents down your drain will diminish or eliminate the microbes that digest sewage, increasing the risk of system failure.

Even just one cup of household bleach, for example, can kill all beneficial microbes in a 1,000-gal. septic tank for a time. These microbes will eventually re-establish themselves, but not until some sewage goes undigested.

Another big no-no? Coffee grounds. They don’t readily digest and can get into your leaching bed, where they can contribute to system failure.

There are just two things that can safely be put into a septic system: wastewater and sewage.

Septic Myth #3: Flushing a Dead Mouse Down the Toilet Helps a Septic System

Some say that a dead mouse contains unique microbes that improve septic system performance. This is false. Every time you flush a toilet for the usual reasons, you’re introducing a fresh infusion of beneficial microbes.

While the old mouse trick seems wise and reassuring, a few ounces of dead animal isn’t providing anything essential that’s not already coming from other sources.

Go ahead and flush dead mice down the toilet if you want, but you’re not doing your septic system any favors. In fact, septic additives in general (even “natural” ones) are questionable, at best. (See Myth #1.)

Septic Myth #4: You Can’t Expect a Septic System to Last More Than 20 Years

Truth be told, many septic systems keep working perfectly after two decades of service. I know because I’ve met many people with 20-plus-year-old systems. The oldest I’ve seen so far is 49 years old, and still working perfectly.

At the other end of the spectrum, I’ve seen septic systems fail after just five years of use. Septic system working life has much more to do with management than it does with some arbitrary lifespan expectation.

To up your system’s chances of a long working life, have the tank pumped every two or three years, avoid putting poisons down the drain and keep your leaching bed mowed and free of anything other than grass.

Septic Myth #5: Clogged Septic Systems Must Be Replaced

The fact is, many clogged septic systems can be restored with maintenance, so replacement isn’t always necessary.

Three of the most common causes of clogs — indigestible sewage solids entering the leaching bed, slimy biomat growths blocking the holes in the perforated leaching pipes and tree roots physically clogging the leaching pipes — can usually be solved without replacing any part of the system.

Instead, look into a process called “jetting,” which involves installing access ports on the ends of the leaching pipes so you can give them an internal pressure-wash to clear them out. There’s no reason that a septic system can’t function indefinitely if the leaching pipes and bed are jetted internally with high-pressure water from time to time.

Other than having the septic tank pumped every few years, jetting is the simplest and most effective option for restoring a failed or failing system. I’ve seen a septic system clogged so badly that there were 12 inches of raw sewage sitting above the top of the tank — yet this same system functioned perfectly for years after jetting the leaching pipes.

And speaking of septic systems, here are the 20 dirtiest jobs in the world.

Easy Chair Fix

This easy home fix is one you’ll definitely want to keep handy! Trying to keep a rickety old chair together without going through the trouble of taking it apart and re-gluing it?

The simple home fix is to just drill pilot holes and drive trim-head screws through the bottom of the rungs and into the legs.