Two-Part Filler

Slice Through Metal With an Arc Blade

Lenox has a curved recip blade in its diverse lineup of tool blades. The curve helps change the angle of attack on every stroke, which speeds up cutting. It’s similar to the orbital action on many reciprocating saws. These blades are not intended for precise scrollwork—they’re most useful when you have a whole bunch of aggressive cuts to make. Lenox Gold Power Arc Curved Blades are available online.

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Caution: Silica dust can damage your lungs. Always wear a respirator when you’re drilling or cutting concrete or masonry.

What’s the Difference Between a Hammer Drill and a Rotary Hammer?

Hammer Drills

Hammer drills often come as a combination driver with a drill, drive and hammer setting. In the hammer setting, a pair of grooved discs rotate, making the chuck slam forward and back as the chuck rotates. This hammering force makes the drill bit chip into the concrete as it spins.

More pressure, more progress

When you’re using a hammer drill, more force equals faster progress. But watch out, these bits can break — ease up if it starts to bend!

Dial in the RPM

With a hammer drill, I find that slower RPM (revolutions per minute) means slower drilling, while higher RPM doesn’t mean faster drilling. The sweet spot for me is medium-high RPM. My hammer drill has two speed settings, so I use the high setting and nudge the speed up until I find that sweet spot where the bit proceeds at a steady pace.

Rotary Hammers

Rotary hammers are the hammer drill’s big brother. The motor rotates the bit and moves a piston back and forth, which gives the tool more pounding power. Many rotary hammers are multifunctional, adding drill and hammer to the basic rotary hammer function, making them far more useful.

If you have lots of drilling to do, a rotary hammer will cut your labor considerably. You can buy a rotary hammer starting at about $100.

Let the tool do the work

Unlike with a hammer drill, you don’t need to put your weight behind a rotary hammer. Too much force reduces the effectiveness of the piston motion. Apply just enough pressure to make steady progress.

My Go-To Concrete Fasteners

You’ll find a dozen fastener choices at the hardware store, all suited to different tasks. The most important thing is to drill the proper hole size for your fasteners.

Concrete Screw

I choose concrete screws for most fastening jobs because they’re easy to use, strong and removable. They range in diameter from 3/16-in. to 3/4-in., and in length from 1-1/4-in. to 6-in.

Pro Tip: An impact driver is my go-to tool for driving concrete screws. It’s the only way to go!

Plastic Anchor

Plastic anchors work the same in concrete as they do in drywall — press the anchor into the hole and it expands for a snug fit as you drive a screw into it. Plastic anchors are the cheapest option. They’re best for light-duty tasks like hanging small pictures and shelf brackets.

Sleeve Anchor

Used for heavy-duty fastening or hanging, sleeve anchors are permanent, really strong and less expensive than large concrete screws. They can be used in any concrete or masonry and have either a screw head or a nut to tighten. The sleeve expands as you tighten the nut for a firm grip.

Wedge Anchor

Wedge anchors provide the strongest connection for demanding jobs like fastening structural hardware to concrete. Hammer the anchor into the hole, then turn the nut to lock the anchor in place. Don’t use wedge anchors in brick, block or mortar joints. The force may cause cracking.

Concrete Fastening Tips From the Jobsite

Go deep

Drill your hole at least 1/4-in. deeper than the length of your fastener (1/2-in. deeper for fasteners 3/8-in. or larger in diameter). This ensures that your fastener won’t bottom out because of dust or other debris in the hole. If your drill doesn’t have a depth gauge, wrap a tape flag around the drill bit so you know how deep to go.

Fix a strip-out

So you’ve drilled your hole and for some reason your fastener doesn’t grab. Before throwing in the towel, try these options:

• Add a Wire. Push a copper wire into the hole, then drive your concrete screw.
• Drill a Bigger Hole. Upsize the hole and drive in a bigger fastener. You may also need to drill out the hole in the parts you’re fastening.

Shoot nails into concrete

If you have a lot of concrete fastening to do, consider a powder-actuated tool. It uses a gunpowder load to shoot a special nail into concrete. It’s the quickest masonry fastener available and costs as little as $25. Before you use one, go to familyhandyman.com and search for “powder actuated tool” to get the full story.

Control the dust

Concrete contains crystalline silica, which can lead to serious health issues. Always wear a respirator when drilling into concrete, but don’t stop there. A vacuum nozzle close to the action prevents most of the dust from ever going into the air.

Fasten faster with a bit kit

To speed up drilling and driving, use a special kit like this Bulldog Anchor Drive Installation Kit by Bosch. Many brands make a similar installation tool; this one costs about $40. It slips over an SDS (slotted drive shaft) bit, letting you drill and drive fasteners.

If you hit a hard spot, move on

When you’re drilling concrete, sometimes you’ll hit something that the bit can’t easily penetrate, typically a rock or rebar. Sometimes you can work through it, but it’s best to try a different spot. Even if you get through it, your fastener will hit it too and likely shear off as you’re driving it.

Drill wood with a masonry bit?

When fastening wood to masonry, some people drill through wood with a standard bit, then switch to a masonry bit. Switching isn’t worth the hassle. A masonry bit isn’t the best for wood, but it will do the job without harming the bit.

Clean out the hole

When you drill a hole, dust settles to the bottom and clings to the sides of the hole. The dust could keep your fastener from embedding all the way or cause a sleeve or wedge slip. Use a vacuum and a copper fitting brush to remove all the dust.

Stay away from the edge

A good rule of thumb is to keep an anchor away from an edge a distance of at least 12 times the diameter of the anchor. For example, a 1/4-in. anchor requires a minimum distance of three inches from an edge. Don’t use a wedge anchor in this situation — its outward force could cause a blowout.

Do I fasten to mortar or the block/brick?

Drill into mortar if you’re hanging a picture frame or lightweight holiday decorations. Mortar is a lot easier to drill into. It’s more prone to crumbling, but it’s easier to patch. When you’re hanging heavier objects like a TV, it’s better to fasten directly to the brick or block. The material is harder but still brittle, so avoid wedge anchors.

For a smoother ride, use a four-cutter bit

Two-cutter bits work fine, but four-cutter bits are better. Four-cutter bits are available at home centers for about 20 percent more than two-cutter bits. Four-cutter bits last longer, cut smoother and easier and are less likely to twist the drill out of your hand if you hit a hard rock or rebar.

Don’t bother with masonry nails

You’ll likely still find a dusty box of masonry nails tucked away at the hardware store. Leave it there. Masonry nails aren’t up to the standards of newer fasteners and anchors, and they require more effort than concrete screws.

Clear the flutes

The bit’s flutes carry dust up and out of the hole as you drill, but they can get clogged. When they do, the bit spins without making any progress. To release the dust buildup, just pull the bit out of the hole while it’s spinning. I typically do this every inch or so of depth.

April Wilkerson, Wilker Do’s

April is the most fearless and ambitious builder many of us have ever met. She recently built a treehouse deck, that, to us, really exemplifies her skill and creativity. As a woman immersed in DIY for awhile, April is a creative trailblazer worth following.

Website: wilkerdos.com | Instagram: @wilker_dos | Facebook: Wilker Do’s

Emily Pilloton, founder and executive director of the nonprofit design-and-build program Girls Garage, recently published a refreshingly different kind of DIY book.

Entitled Girls Garage: How To Use Any Tool, Tackle Any Project, and Build The World You Want To See, Pilloton’s book seeks to empower young women by teaching them to use tools, build real-world skills and envision themselves as change-makers.

“Tools for many [women] are a metaphor for power, a metaphor for voice and a metaphor for how we see ourselves in the world,” Pilloton told Family Handyman. “I wanted the book to embody the technical aspects of building, and then also this more nebulous, but just as powerful, emotional feeling that we as women feel through the act of building.”

The 300-page book contains illustrated tool and hardware guides, 11 step-by-step projects, 21 essential skills for building self-reliance and 15 profiles of women builders. The projects included teach everything from carpentry and welding to DIY projects around the house.

Pilloton points to the predominantly male-centric fields that play a role in shaping the world — i.e., architects, engineers, planners, policy-makers — as evidence that stronger messaging, support and encouragement is needed to turn today’s young girls into tomorrow’s women in science, technology, engineering and mathematics (i.e. STEM). Put simply, Girls Garage was written to encourage girls to “join a thriving, diverse and fierce movement of fearless builder girls.”

“The boiled down message [of the book] is that girls and women have incredible amounts of expertise, ideas and stories to contribute to what our world looks like,” Pilloton says. “I want this book to be inspiration to go out and physically build the world you want to see.”

Girls Garage was published on June 2. It can be found on Amazon or wherever you buy your books.

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Getting Started on Building an In-Ground Fire Pit:

Advice From a Masonry Pro:

Doug Montzka, of Montkza Concrete & Masonry in St. Paul, Minn., has been in the concrete and masonry business for 23 years. He’s seen the popularity of fire pits but it’s possible to create a DIY fire pit. “I started getting requests for brick fire pits a few years ago. It isn’t rocket science, but there are a few tricks to doing the job right. A well-built masonry fire pit is rock solid, safe to use, and will easily last for as long as you own your house.”

Set Aside a Few Days

This won’t be the kind of project you can complete in an afternoon. There are a few time-consuming steps that will spread this project out over a few days. First, you’ll have to pour the footing and give it the time to set up. Then you’ll have to mortar the bricks into place.

Before Digging, Call Utility Companies

Before digging out the space for your in-ground fire pit, call your utility companies (dial 811; for more info, go to call811.com) to check the location of buried utility lines.

Also, check the fire pit code in your area. Most require a fire pit to be 25 ft. away from any structures and overhanging trees. Think about how the prevailing winds blow through your backyard.

Mark Out the Fire Pit

The first step to make your own fire pit is to dig out a dedicated space in your yard for the fire pit base. The following are the fire pit dimensions we used for this project.

• A 3-ft.-diameter in ground fire pit creates enough room for a good fire, yet keeps everyone close enough to chat (and complies with most codes).
  • Pro tip: To make measuring the pit and pouring the concrete footing easy, we used two cardboard concrete form tubes (purchased from a concrete supply company).
• You could also make your own forms by screwing together 1/8-in. hardboard. For a non-traditional fire, opt for a smokeless fire pit.
• Rip a 4 x 8-ft. sheet into four 8-in.-wide strips.
• Carefully bend and screw two strips together to create a 36-in.-diameter circle, and use the other two to make a 48-in.-diameter circle.
• Set the larger form in position and spray paint around it. Dig a hole about 8 in. deep and 3 in. larger in diameter than the form.

Brick Walkway Overview

You don’t need heavy equipment and a week of work to lay an attractive and durable walkway. We designed this path, one of our favorite garden path ideas, with bricks for simplicity and ease of construction. It’s made from old street pavers and granite cobbles set on a sand bed. But you can substitute just about any pavers or types of stones that are readily available and fit your landscape. The stone-setting techniques will even accommodate stones of varying thicknesses. You can build this path in about two weekends using a shovel, a wheelbarrow and a few inexpensive hand tools.

We’ll walk you through all the path-building details, from breaking ground to breaking the cobbles to fit tight spots. Usually, the main stumbling block is making the path smooth and flat. To solve that problem, we’ll show you a simple leveling technique using ordinary plastic landscape edging. With this technique, you can lay a top-notch path, even if you’re a novice.

Garden Path and Bench

We integrated a seating area into our pathway. Also, keep in mind that we designed this path for foot traffic and other light use. Don’t try to drive on it. Because the path is set only on sand, it won’t stay as flat and smooth as a traditional paver walk set on a compacted gravel bed. It’s ideal for narrower secondary walks in a garden or backyard, where slight imperfections and undulations add to its character. And if an edge stone gets loose from a wheelbarrow bouncing over it, you can reset it in minutes. Expect to pull an occasional weed growing up in the joints. Or if you prefer an English cottage look, encourage moss or other ground covers to grow in the joints.

Crumbling masonry joints start out ugly, and then things get uglier fast—bricks come loose, water seeps behind the wall and bees make their homes in the mortar holes. Let it go and the problem won’t go away. In fact, the deterioration will accelerate and you’ll have a much bigger fix on your hands. But you can mend the mortar joints yourself with a process called tuckpointing.

Tuckpointing isn’t difficult or expensive—the only real investment is your time. But you can pick away at it in your free time, area by area.

The steps we show here will work on any brick walls, chimneys and retaining walls. Tuckpointing won’t fix cracking or crumbling bricks, or cracks in walls caused by a shifting foundation. Those problems call for more drastic fixes that we won’t cover here.

Pick up tools and materials

First and foremost, you’ll need an angle grinder with a 4 or 4-1/4 in. diamond blade. Don’t bother renting one unless you only have several feet of bad joints. You can buy an inexpensive model for a few dollars more than the cost of a one-day rental, and even a fairly cheap one will do the trick (unless you’re a serious tool junkie or you have an entire house that needs extensive tuckpointing).

You’ll also need a few simple, inexpensive specialty hand tools that are available at masonry suppliers and some home centers. You’ll need a brick trowel and a tuck pointer. If you have concave mortar joints, you’ll need a masonry jointer that’s the width of your joints. For flat joints, you’ll need a joint raker. If you have just a few areas that need work, use a hammer and cold chisel to knock out the old mortar, but for more extensive work, plan on getting a rotary hammer drill fitted with a flat chisel to make the job go a heck of a lot quicker. You can rent one for a half-day or day. If you have days’ worth of work, rental costs can break the bank. In that case, spend the money to own one.

You’ll also need mortar mix. A 60-lb. bag costs a few dollars at home centers. If you need colored mortar, take a small piece of the old mortar to a masonry supplier and ask for help finding a mortar dye to match. But be aware of this—fresh tuckpointing always stands out against older mortar. However, it will eventually weather to match.

Start small
If you only have a few joints to tuckpoint, dive right in. But if you have a large wall to tackle, start in a small area to get a feel for the operation before you start hogging out entire walls. You’ll hone your skills and get a good idea of how much you can tuckpoint at one time. You’ll have 30 to 60 minutes of working time once you mix the mortar.

Get ready for the dust
Tuckpointing is a dirty business. Grinding the joints creates a dust storm, with chunks of mortar covering the ground. Spread a drop cloth on the ground to catch the mortar so cleanup will take minutes instead of hours. Close your house windows to keep out the dust, and tell your neighbors who might be affected to do the same.

How to remove mortar from brick: Grind out the joints

Photo 1: Grind the horizontal joints first

Grind along the top and bottom of the horizontal joints to remove mortar. Get as close to the bricks as you can. If you grind against the bricks, the dust will turn the color of the brick.

Photo 2: Plunge-cut the vertical joints

Grind both sides of the vertical mortar joints. Plunge the grinder into the joint and work it up and down to make the cuts. But be careful not to grind the bricks above and below the joints.

Before you can put new mortar in the joints, you have to cut out the damaged material. So how do you remove mortar from brick? Start by grinding the top and bottom of the horizontal (bed) joints with an angle grinder (Photo 1). Hold the grinder with both hands to keep it steady and avoid grinding into the bricks. You only need to grind 3/4 in. into the mortar.

Start at outside corners and work inward. That keeps you from putting extra pressure on the corner bricks, which could knock them out of the wall. After you’ve finished the horizontal joints, do the vertical (head) joints (Photo 2).

Knock out the mortar

Photo 3: Hammer out the mortar

Keep moving the rotary hammer drill along the joints as you chisel out the mortar. Be sure to keep the chisel off the bricks so you don’t knock them out of place.

Use the rotary hammer drill to pound the mortar out of the joints. Set the drill on the rotating mode (it puts less pressure on the bricks). Again, work from the outside corners inward (Photo 3). Keep the chisel point in the mortar joint and keep moving the hammer. The drill makes quick work of removing mortar, but be careful. The powerful tool can also knock out bricks. If that happens, take them all the way out, chisel off all the mortar, then reset them when you fill the joints.

There’s really no secret to knocking out the mortar. Just hold the drill at about a 45-degree angle to the wall, squeeze the trigger and watch the mortar fall out.

Caution: Wear eye protection—mortar pieces can go flying!

Clean out the joints

Photo 4: Sweep out the joints

Use a small broom to sweep debris and dust out of the joints. Inspect the joints for any remaining stubborn mortar and knock it out with the drill.

Photo 5: Give joints a bath

Stick a brush into a bucket of water and rinse out the joints. Your goal here isn’t to make surfaces pristine, just to get rid of chunks and dust.

Once you’ve chipped out the damaged mortar, use a hand broom to sweep the joints. Sweep away mortar clumps and the dust (Photo 4). Use the rotary hammer drill to bust out stubborn chunks.

Then wash out the joints with water. But don’t hose down the wall or you’ll soak everything, including the ground where you’ll be standing or kneeling. Instead, fill a bucket with water and brush the water into the joints (Photo 5). Don’t worry about slopping water onto the bricks—you want them damp before you fill the joints anyway.

Mix the new mortar

Photo 6: Whip up the mortar batch

Mix the mortar to the consistency of peanut butter with no dry spots or clumps. You’ll know the mix is right when it sticks to your trowel when you hold it at a 45-degree angle. Let the mortar sit for 10 minutes before using it.

If you’re tinting the mortar, stir the dye and the mortar mix in a bucket before adding the water. Dye is typically sold in 1-1/2-lb. bags. Mix one-quarter of the dye with one-quarter of a 60-lb. bag of mortar mix. Stir in water until the mix is the consistency of peanut butter (Photo 6).

The mortar will last 30 to 60 minutes, but you may need to add water to keep it workable. After one hour, throw out what’s left and mix a new batch.

Work the mortar into the joints

Photo 7: Fill the joints

Load your brick trowel and hold it next to the joint. Work the mortar into the joint with your tuck pointer. Pack the joint full before moving on to the next one.

Use a brick trowel and a tuck pointer to pack the mortar into the joints. Most pros prefer this method to using a grout/mortar bag. Mortar that is hand packed is more durable.

Scoop mortar onto the trowel. Hold the trowel next to the joint, then press the mortar into the joint with the tuck pointer (Photo 7). Pack the joint until it’s flush with the front of the bricks.

Tool the joints

Photo 8: Strike the mortar joints

Drag the jointer along the vertical joints and the horizontal joints. Apply gentle pressure to tool out the ridges where the joints intersect. Finish one joint before moving on to the next.

Let the mortar in the filled joints set for about 30 minutes. If you’re tuckpointing a large area, continually check the first joints you filled to see if they’re ready to tool (finish). Check by pressing the filled joint with your thumb. If your thumb leaves only a slight impression, it’s ready to tool. If it goes in deeper, wait five minutes and try again. But don’t let the mortar get too stiff—it can start to harden after just 30 minutes, making it difficult to tool the joints.

If you want rounded joints, press a masonry jointer into the top of vertical joints and pull the tool downward. The jointer will push out some of the mortar and leave a concave shape. For horizontal joints, start at a corner (Photo 8). Run the tool about halfway across the joint, then stop and finish tooling from the other side.

For flat joints, place a joint raker over an old joint to set the depth. Then run the raker along the new joints to make them flat.

Clean the bricks

Photo 9: Wipe down the bricks

Scrub the mortar off the bricks with a stiff brush. This also knocks down and smooths out any high spots along the joint edges.

Once the joints have set up (about 30 minutes after tooling), use a stiff-bristle brush to clean dried mortar off the bricks (Photo 9).

If the mortar refuses to come off, wait three days, then use muriatic acid (sold at home centers). Use 10 parts water to 1 part acid (add the acid to the water, not the other way around). Caution: Be sure to wear eye protection and rubber gloves when working with acid. Brush the acid onto the bricks with a stiff-bristle brush, scrub the bricks and let the acid fizz. Then rinse the acid off with water. If there’s still a little mortar residue left, treat it again.

The acid can slightly alter the bricks’ appearance, so test it on a small area first. If it does alter the appearance, increase the ratio of water to acid.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools] You’ll also need a brick trowel, a masonry jointer or joint raker, a small broom, rubber gloves, and a stiff bristle brush.

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

How to Repair Mortar Joints

Brick is one of the most prized exteriors for homes because it’s attractive and easy to maintain. Yet over the years, water, ice and seasonal expansion and contraction all attack the solid mass of a brick wall at its most elastic (and weakest) point: the mortar joints.

Mortar joints deteriorate wherever water can soak them—under windows and walls, around chimneys, behind downspouts, at ground level and at any exposed wall top.

Repairing eroding and cracked mortar joints is called pointing, repointing or tuckpointing. We’ll show you the proper tools and techniques to repair and restore cracked and worn-away mortar joints to make them solid, durable and good looking. To keep them that way for the long run, you have to stop water from getting into your bricks and foundation. Note that this is a different process than repairing broken bricks themselves.

Repointing brick mortar is slow, painstaking work that requires few special skills but a lot of patience. Using the steps we show, you can expect to repoint about 20 sq. ft. of brick work a day. However, if you rush and do careless work on a highly visible area, the repointing brickwork will stick out like graffiti. Brick is durable; bad results will bother you for a long time! If you don’t have repointing brick experience, consider hiring a pro for:

• Larger-scale pointing jobs, such as a whole wall that needs repair.
• Chimney and wall repair requiring setting up and moving scaffolding.
• Areas with a lot of loose or missing brick requiring rebuilding walls or corners.
• Color-matching new mortar to existing mortar in highly visible areas.

Read on to learn how to repair mortar joints.

Use an Angle Grinder for Larger, Harder Repointing Brick Jobs

Repairing brick mortar requires basic tools: hammer, flat utility chisel, safety glasses, dust mask and whisk broom. Filling the cleaned-out joints requires masonry tools: brick trowel, 3/8-in. pointing trowel, a special tool for contouring the joints and waterproof gloves.

If you do tackle larger jobs or encounter hard mortar that can’t be easily chiseled out, we recommend that you rent or buy an angle grinder fitted with a diamond blade. Select a grinder with a 4-1/2 in. blade diameter; larger grinders are harder to control and cut the mortar too deep. To begin, Cut grooves 3/4 to 1 in. deep in cracked or deteriorating mortar using a 4-1/2 in. angle grinder fitted with a diamond blade. Push the blade into the joint until the grinder head contacts the brick, and make a single pass along the center of the joints.

Driveway Sealing Preparation

There are several kinds of driveways for homes, but one of the most popular choices is an asphalt driveway. It can last for almost 30 years, even adding a little curb appeal to your home. But you can’t achieve that long life span unless the driveway was installed properly and you perform regular maintenance, like filling cracks annually and driveway sealing when needed.

Driveway sealing preparation can take a full day (including drying time), and it’s tedious. The driveway sealer application phase is much faster, taking only a few hours per coat for a typical driveway. Most driveway sealer manufacturers recommend two coats with a minimum drying time of eight hours between coats, so this driveway sealing project will fill an entire weekend. Sealing it is also an important step for winterizing your driveway.

The best asphalt driveway sealer materials cost about $100, but you’ll save about $200 in labor over a professional job. A power washer speeds the cleaning process, but you can do the job without it. In addition to a squeegee or application brush, you’ll need a broom, drill, mixing paddle, duct tape, dashing brush and poly sheeting to protect painted surfaces.

Avoid these common driveway sealing mistakes

• Depending on the sealer to fill cracks. It won’t. Fill them properly before applying sealer.
• Failure to clean and prep the driveway before applying the sealer. If you don’t want to spend time cleaning the driveway, you may as well skip the sealer too, because it won’t stick to a dirty driveway.
• Failure to stir properly. Don’t depend on a stir stick. It simply won’t blend the water and solids enough to get a consistent mixture.
• Use of the wrong applicator. Using a brush when the manufacturer specifies a squeegee (or vice versa) will cause premature sealer failure.
• Applying asphalt sealer too often. Too much sealer will flake off. Wait until you begin to see asphalt aggregate before you apply a new coat of sealer.

Buying the Right Materials

Driveway sealer is available in various grades and price ranges. Some bargain products contain almost 50 percent water and have lower coverage rates and a correspondingly shorter guarantee, so they’re not the most cost-effective solution over the long term. Use one of them if you’re trying to spiff up the driveway before selling your home. Premium products, on the other hand, are made with higher quality resins and UV stabilizers and contain filler and elastomeric material, so they last longer and carry a longer guarantee.

Manufacturers also make different formulas for different driveway sealing conditions: one formula for newer driveways in good condition and another formula for older driveways that haven’t been well maintained. The two formulas also vary in their coverage, so read the labels carefully and choose the correct sealer and quantity for your particular driveway. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for the type of applicator to use (brush or squeegee). Using the wrong one can cause premature failure. You’ll also need liquid driveway cleaner/degreaser to remove oil and tree sap. If your driveway has visible oil stains, pick up a bottle of oil spot primer.

Check the Weather Before you Start

You’ll need at least two days of dry weather to seal your asphalt driveway. Temperatures must be above 50 degrees F during application and throughout the night. And, it’s best to avoid scorching-hot sunny days (the sealer may dry too fast). If you ignore the weather forecast, you may see $100 worth of sealer wash away in a heavy rain.

Start with Cleaning and Priming

Use the soap nozzle on your power washer or a garden hose applicator to apply the driveway cleaner. Then scrub the entire driveway with a stiff-bristle push broom.

Even if you think your driveway is clean, trust us, it isn’t. Exhaust gas contains combustion byproducts that deposit a light, sometimes oily film on your driveway. That film, along with dirt and tree sap, must come off if you want the sealer to stick. So clean the driveway first (Photo 1).

The brick retaining wall shown above is falling apart and it’s too late to save it. The flaking surface is a classic example of “spalling,” a type of failure caused by moisture and the freeze/thaw cycle. Water from rainfall, melting snow or even wet soil saturated the brick at some point, probably often, and froze inside the brick when the temperature dropped. The slight expansion of freezing water fractured the brick. With repeated freezing and thawing, the fractures widened until the brick literally disintegrated.

To resist these forces, bricks used on the exterior are usually harder and denser (less moisture absorption). When you see an occasional brick in a wall that fails, it’s often a softer brick that was mixed in the load by mistake. However, you have massive failure, indicating a severe water intrusion problem. The problem is probably not bad brick.

Exterior walls have to be detailed carefully to keep water out, particularly when they’re part of a retaining wall. The most obvious element missing in your case is a coping or cap on the wall to keep rain out.

This consists of metal flashing, concrete or special bricks that are angled to direct water away from the top of the wall. The cap may have been there at one time, but it was removed or it wore away. In addition, the wood fence above probably catches and directs even more water down onto the wall.

If you have your brick wall rebuilt, make sure it’s designed to minimize water intrusion. In addition to a cap on the top, it should have good draining fill (gravel) along the backside and weep holes along the bottom to relieve water pressure when the soil becomes saturated. Damp-proofing the backside of the wall will also help keep water out. And good drainage around the base will help keep water from entering from below.

After fixing your spalling retaining wall, click here to learn how to build a brick pathway.

Required Tools for this Spalling Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools] You’ll also need a masonry blade for your circular saw to cut the brick

Required Materials for this Spalling Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

Paver Stone Walkway Overview

Do you want to spruce up an ordinary, all-purpose sidewalk? If so, this project is a great eye-catching solution. It’s basically a brick paver walkway set on a solid bed of gravel and sand. It’ll stay flat and smooth even under heavy use, and unlike concrete, it won’t crack. The brick meanders through a blend of natural stone, also solidly bedded, which adds a unique decorative dimension. You can work in just about any type of stone that complements your home and yard.

Our project dresses up a space along the side of the house from the driveway to a service door. It also provides a firm, smooth surface for rolling a garden cart or wheelbarrow and keeps your feet out of the mud on a rainy day. Its width, a full 7 ft., allows enough room for a bench to kick off your boots, with plenty of space left over for potted plants.

Path building is a great project for homeowners of all skill levels. However, it involves moving tons of material. You should be in good physical shape to tackle this job or enlist a few helpers with strong backs. Once you have all the materials on hand, plan a three-day weekend to finish the whole enchilada.

You need a few special tools for this project: a plate compactor and hand tamper (Photo 4). Rent them both from a local rental yard. Besides a sturdy wheelbarrow and shovels, you’ll need a dolly for moving heavy stones, a brick hammer and chisel, a 4-1/2 in. angle grinder equipped with a diamond blade, and a steel trowel. All these tools are available at home centers and masonry supply stores. Order the brick, stone, gravel and sand from a landscape and/or a brick supplier.

Paver stone walkway design and materials

Although you could build this project on a gentle slope, it’s far easier to set the grade on a relatively flat site. However, one corner of our path site dropped off about 8 in. To make the walk flat, we built it up with soil excavated from the walk and blended it into the lawn. If you have to build the walk up higher than that, you’ll probably have to do more extensive regrading or even build a retaining wall.

You don’t have to build your walk 7 ft. wide like we did, but keep it at least 4 ft. wide to maintain an attractive balance between the stone and the brick. We used a clay paving brick with a soft texture and irregular edges that make it look aged, as if it’s been there forever. When selecting a brick, make sure it’s a paver that’s made to be set in the ground and that has a “severe weather” rating if you have freezing weather.

Big, flat stones are called flagstone, in this case a Wisconsin limestone called Chilton. Stone type and availability vary considerably by region. Choose one that complements your house color and the brick you select. Be sure it’s 1-1/2 to 3 in. thick to avoid cracking over time.

The rounded stone is called fieldstone. We found some rock in our local landscape yard that fit well in the niches of the flagstone. We handpicked 45 of them for our project but they were expensive. If you don’t want to pay the premium price or if this type isn’t available in your area, any fieldstone with at least one reasonably flat face will work. Collect them from your yard or pick through a boulder pile at a landscape yard. Get a variety of sizes from 6 to 18 in. in diameter and 2 to 4 in. thick. Thicker ones will work, but they’re more difficult to set.

Path layout

Lay out and dig the walk 6 to 8 in. wider than the actual size (Photo 1). The extra width supports the paver edging that you’ll install later to keep the brick on the edge from tipping. Locating the walk against the house makes setting the grade easy. Snap a tightly pulled chalk line below the door to the drive to represent the top of the sidewalk and work from this reference (Photo 2). It’s best to set the walk height slightly higher than the surrounding lawn area, 1 in. or so, but no more than 8 in. below a door or the step down will be too high. And plan a slight slope across the width to help drainage, about 1 in. in 6 ft. If you build your walk away from the house, stretch tight string lines to represent the finished height of the walk.

Excavate this job with a buddy who owes you a favor

Digging’s a lot of work, but this is a small enough area that you can dig it out in a few hours with a helper. If you have a low-lying area nearby, dump the extra soil there. Otherwise you might have to rent a 10-cu.-yd. trash bin. Photo 2 shows you how to check the depth of your excavation against your reference line. Since the lawn will probably dip and rise along the outside edge, you may have to add soil to the lawn or cut some away to meet the walk edge evenly. Do this after you set the brick. Dig as accurately as possible. If you dig too deep, fill the area back in with soil and compact with the compactor before adding the gravel.

We had every utility line in the book coming underground into this side of the house (Photo 1), which really slowed down the digging. Carefully dig parallel to these lines, then pull the wires or cable aside to avoid cutting them. After digging, lay them back down and bury them under the gravel.

Move any sprinkler lines that run under the walk or the plate compactor might crush them. You can generally move a sprinkler head yourself if you’re familiar with installation techniques (Photo 3). Otherwise, call in a pro.

Build a firm base

Lay your walk on top of a 6-in. bed of compacted gravel. Skimp on this step and your brick path will settle and heave within a few seasons. Order gravel that ranges in size from 3/4 in. down to a powder (called 3/4 in. -minus or Class II). Figure the volume in cubic feet by multiplying the length (ft.) x width (ft.) x depth (1/2 ft.) of your walk. Add 6 in. to each side that’s not bound by the house and round up the volume to allow for compaction of the gravel. Have it delivered and dumped on the driveway. (Move your car out of the garage first!) Shoveling gravel off pavement is easier than shoveling it off the lawn. At the same time, order about one-fourth as much coarse, washed sand to set the brick on.

Before you spread the gravel, line the excavation with a heavy woven material called stabilization fabric (Photo 4), available from a landscape supplier. It’ll prevent the gravel from mixing with the softer soil underneath, so you’ll have a stable, flat walk for years to come. If it’s not available in your area, substitute a heavy woven landscape fabric.

Fill and compact only a 2- to 3-in. layer of gravel at a time. Rake it out at a consistent depth, using the chalk line on the house as a guide. Run over each layer with the plate compactor at least four times, until the tone of the tamper changes from a dull thud to a hopping rap (Photo 4). Compact corners with a hand tamper.

Use two 1-in. (outside diameter) steel pipes (available from a home center) as a guide to smooth out the last gravel layer (Photos 5 – 7). Take your time when setting this layer. It determines the final grade for the stone and brick. Use a 2×4 marked at 2-3/4 in. to level the pipe closest to the house (Photo 5). Add or remove gravel to support the pipe. To set the walk slope (for draining water away from the house), position the second pipe about an inch lower than the first (Photo 6). Figure 1/8 to 1/4 in. slope per foot, depending on your need for drainage. Screed the last layer of gravel flat and compact it (Photo 7).

Setting the stone

Flagstone has dips, waves and irregular edges that’ll test your patience when you’re setting it. The trick is to focus on making the overall surface a flat plane. Don’t obsess over a low corner or an edge that doesn’t match up perfectly. They won’t. Set three or four stones in an inch or two of sand, then check them in a few places with your 2×4 screed or a level (Photos 8 and 9). Raise or lower any stones that don’t line up. Use your chalk line as a height guideline and maintain your slope for drainage.

When fitting the flagstones, select pieces that naturally fit together. If you have to tweak a piece, chip away edges slowly with a glancing blow of a brick hammer. (Be sure to wear safety glasses when cutting or chipping brick and stone.) Take off too much and you’ll break the stone—usually in the wrong spot! Try to keep the joints no wider than 1-1/2 in.

When placing the fieldstone, set a grouping in place before setting the height (Photo 10). Stand back and scan them, then adjust the shapes, sizes and colors of the arrangement until you like it. Then set them. Make the tops flush with the flagstone or a hair high. Don’t fuss too much; you can always change out a stone later.

How to Move Heavy Flagstones

Flagstones ranging in size from 18 to 42 in. weigh 100 to 300 lbs. plus. These tips will help you get them into place:

• Tip and gently flip large pieces. Don’t try to lift them.
• Tip the pieces onto a dolly with a helper and roll them close to their position. With help, lower them into place.
• Pry the pieces up with a 3-ft. bar to add or remove sand.
• If a piece is just too big to move, break it in half with a sledge. Then match the broken edges, spacing them about 1/2 in. apart so the break looks intentional.

Screed a sand bed

Here’s where the careful setting of the last gravel layer pays off. Again use the pipes to lay an even 1-in. thick bed of sand. You’ll need a shorter pipe to screed sections between the stones (Photo 11). Clear away enough sand left from setting the stone so the pipes rest completely on the compacted gravel layer. Then dump a wheelbarrow of sand between the pipes, spread it out and screed it. Use your trowel to screed in areas you can’t reach with the 2×4.

Don’t compact or walk on the sand layer. You want it smooth for setting the brick. However, you can step on the stone and brick after they’re in place. Next establish lines to guide the brick layout (Photos 13 and 14). In general, set your layout to minimize brick cutting and to avoid small pieces along the edges (Photo 16).

Tip: Lay bricks end to end in the driveway and take measurements to get dimensions for positioning layout lines to your best advantage (Photo 13). It’s also a good way to establish the exact path width.

Laying brick is quick work

Have the brick delivered as close to the walk as possible. Although not necessary, a brick tong (Photo 16) will cut your carrying time by more than half. With it you can easily carry nine or 10 bricks at once. Consider borrowing or buying one from your brick supplier.

As you lay the brick, leave open every space that won’t accept a full brick. It’s faster to cut them all at once later. Every 8 ft. or so, check that your rows are straight with the 2×4 screed. Gap the next row slightly to straighten it. Gaps up to 1/8 in. won’t be noticeable after the joints are filled with sand.

Cutting brick

The best way to cut brick is with a wet saw with a diamond blade, but the clean cut it leaves would be out of character for this rustic walk. So we decided to score the cuts on the underside with an angle grinder (Photo 18) equipped with a diamond blade, then break them with a sharp blow from a brick chisel. The ragged edge looks better with the stone. Scoring the pieces generates a lot of dust and is noisy, so wear a dust mask, earplugs and safety glasses. Cut large pieces first, then fill in the smaller ones. If a piece is too big after you cut it, chip the edge off with a brick hammer to fit. Not every cut has to be exact. Sand will fill in the joints.

Paver edging holds the brick and sand in place

Install special paver edging around the perimeter of the brick and stone (Photo 19), available from a brick or landscape supplier. Each piece locks to the next. When you install it, remember where your sprinkler, phone and cable lines run to avoid piercing them with a spike.

Tamping the brick is a two-step process

First tamp the brick without sand. It’ll smooth out the surface and bring sand up from underneath into the joints. Tie a scrap piece of carpet on the bottom of the tamper to avoid chipping the brick. Next spread dry sand over the surface. Or use leftover sand from the setting bed, if it’s dry. Another option is to buy bags of all-purpose sand. Tamp again. This will lock all the bricks together.

A tight, solid brick and stone walk doesn’t require any maintenance except a simple cleaning with a garden hose once or twice a season. And you can blend your garden right into the walk by planting a ground cover in the joints between the stone, or introduce moss for an aged look.

Figure A: Path Details

How to Install Paver Walkway: Mark the Layout

Paint a line 7 ft. 6 in. away from the house to mark the edge of the sidewalk excavation.

Concrete—most of us have a love-hate relationship with it. Love it when we need a permanent, heavy-duty, weather-resistant surface. Hate it when we gotta repair, replace or cut the stuff.

The prospect of cutting concrete can be daunting, but it doesn’t have to be. Most of the battle can be won by simply selecting the right tools. Try a concrete saw. Following is a rundown of common concrete-cutting tasks—from dinky to monster-sized—and the best tools and techniques for handling them.

Concrete Cutting Tools: Diamond blades are a DIYer’s best friend

Photo 1: Concrete cutting blades

Blades made of corundum may be cheap, but on a per-cut basis, they’re more expensive than diamond-tipped blades. If you rent a diamond circular saw blade, many rental centers will measure its perimeter before and after and charge you by the 1/1,000th inch used.

You can make small rough cuts using a cold chisel and sledgehammer (Photos 2 and 3), but the better choice is a circular saw with a special blade. Three basic choices are shown in Photo 1:

Types of Blades:

Abrasive corundum masonry blades are inexpensive (under $5 for a 7-in. blade), widely available and capable of cutting through concrete, stucco and asphalt. They’re affordable but not fast—in most situations they’re capable of cutting only shallow 1/4- to 1/2-in. passes, so any cut is time-consuming. They also wear away quickly. A blade that’s 7 inches in diameter at the start of a cut will wear down to 6-1/2 in. after cutting a foot or two along a line—meaning you need to frequently adjust the depth of your saw to expose more blade. Abrasive corundum blades smell, create plumes of fine dust and get so hot they can actually glow. They’re an economical choice when you need to make only a few shallow cuts.

Diamond blades consist of a metal blade with a diamond/metal composite bonded to the perimeter. As the blade cuts, the metal composite slowly wears away, revealing fresh, sharp diamond cutting edges. Diamond blades for a standard 7-in. circular saw are a substantial investment, but since they’ll outlast and outcut dozens of abrasive-type blades, they’re worth the cost if you’re cutting a lot of concrete. Diamond blades fall into two categories:

Dry-cutting diamond blades most often have a serrated or toothed rim (Photo 1) to help cool the blade and eject waste. They work best when you make a series of gradually deeper cuts to avoid overheating the blade. The downside to dry-cutting masonry is the tornado of fine dust it creates. If you cut concrete indoors, seal off the area with plastic and duct tape. Seal all duct openings as well.

Wet-cutting diamond blades can have either teeth or a smooth, continuous perimeter. Water not only helps cool and lubricate the blade but also keeps the dust down. These cut the fastest and cleanest, but they require a special saw that can both distribute water and be safely used around it. As a make-do option, you can plug your saw into a GFCI-protected extension cord and have a helper carefully direct a small stream of water just in front of your saw as it cuts.

If you have just one big project, you’ll save money and time by renting a track-guided, wet-cutting saw/saw blade combination. Rental centers carry walk-behind saws for sawing or scoring concrete slabs, as well as a variety of hand-held saws for other tasks.

NOTE: If a diamond blade stops cutting, it may mean you’re cutting a material that’s too soft. A hard material is necessary to wear away the metal composite that the diamond cutting edges are embedded in. It may seem contrary, but to sharpen the blade, make a few cuts through a harder material to reveal new, sharp diamond edges.

Concrete saw cutting dos and don’ts

Photo 2: Cutting hollow concrete block—first, score the line

If your cut doesn’t need to be exact, use a cold chisel and hand sledge to cut the concrete. Score the length of the cut three or four times with the chisel. A circular saw with a masonry blade can also be used to either score or completely cut through the block.

Photo 3: Cutting hollow concrete block—next, chip away the waste

After scoring, remove the concrete to one side of the line using increasingly hard whacks of a hand sledge. Start at the top or bottom of a block.

Photo 4: Cutting sidewalks and other slabs—with a standard circular saw

Use a standard circular saw, equipped with a corundum or diamond blade, for small tasks. For slabs, it’s best to cut through the top inch, then use a sledgehammer to break off the rest. The jagged edge left below the cutting line provides a good rough edge for the new concrete to bond to.

Photo 5: Cutting sidewalks and other slabs—with a gas-powered saw

Gas-powered saws provide both portability and brawn.

Photo 6: Cutting concrete pavers and tile

Rent a track-guided, wet-cutting masonry saw with a sliding table for accuracy and ease when cutting pavers or tile. A good saw with a good blade will cut through a typical 4 x 8-in. cement paver in about 10 seconds.

Photo 7: Clean cuts through solid concrete

This wet-cutting, track-guided saw can cut cleanly and completely through 12-in. solid-poured walls. The cost for hiring a pro to cut this egress window opening runs roughly $100 or more per hour, and the job will take three to four hours.

• Don’t force a blade into a cut. Let the weight of the saw and the blade do the cutting.
• When dry-cutting, back the blade off and allow it to run free every 30 to 45 seconds to prevent overheating.
• You can use a dry-cutting blade with or without water, but a wet blade must always be used with water.
• Whenever you cut concrete, wear sight, hearing and respiratory protection, especially when dry-cutting.

Required Tools for this Cutting Concrete Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools]

1: Thick, well-compacted granular base

Eight inches of granular fill is used for poor-draining soils, 4 in. for well-draining soils.

2: Proper asphalt thickness

A 2-in. layer of asphalt is spread after the fill has settled for several days.

3: Good asphalt compaction

The asphalt is compacted with heavy rollers soon after it’s spread. If the asphalt cools too much before rolling, it can’t be compacted well.

The first step is finding a reputable contractor to do the job. The residential asphalt industry has more than its share of fly-by-nights. The only advice I can offer is to find one with references from homeowners who are still satisfied with their driveways after a decade or so. Assuming you find a good contractor, the rest should take care of itself.

The materials and techniques described here for a quality driveway are pretty simple. Discuss them with your potential contractor before signing on the dotted line, and then stay home to keep an eye on the actual installation to make sure you’re getting what you paid for.

The secrets of a long-lasting driveway

One of the main design objectives for a durable asphalt driveway is to provide enough slope for draining water off and away from the driveway. Water should never pond on the surface or next to the driveway where it will seep underneath to weaken the soil or cause frost heaving.

The main component of a long-lasting driveway is the underlying granular base. It must have the right thickness and composition. Base materials vary by region and can be crushed stone or “conbit” (recycled concrete and asphalt—it’s crushed and reused). Crushed coarse materials like these have jagged surfaces so they’ll compact and lock together in a tough, settle-resistant matrix. A binder like cement dust may be added to hold it all together. Coarse materials also drain water from under the driveway so ice won’t form and crack the asphalt surface.

Once your old driveway has been torn out, you and the contractor should closely examine the existing base (the fill under the asphalt surface) and possibly remove or add material. Digging into the exposed base will tell you its type and thickness. Recommended thicknesses are 8 in. of base over clay soils or 4 in. over well-drained sandy soils. If your base is inadequate, it must be upgraded. Low bids may signal that a contractor isn’t prepared to install a good base. Ask the contractor about these details before you sign up.

Mechanical compaction of the base, subbase and asphalt is crucial for a long-lasting driveway. Ideally, the base should sit for about a week so that natural settling will augment the mechanical compaction. When compacting subbases, contractors will use heavy rollers (or even the tires of the earth-moving equipment) for large areas and plate compactors for smaller areas. But when rolling out asphalt, heavy compacting equipment is needed. Select a contractor who has 1- to 3-ton rollers for compacting the asphalt itself. Edges are raked and formed to 45-degree angles, then packed with a hand tamper.

In most areas of the country, there are two options for the asphalt itself. The difference is the size of the aggregate (gravel filler) used. The most common mix for residential driveways has finer (1/2 in. or smaller) aggregate and thus forms a smoother surface. Coarser (3/4 in. or smaller) aggregate mixes are stronger but have a rougher finish. Parking lots and roads are usually a coarser mix. Coarser mixes are also recommended for driveways that get heavier traffic such as RVs, large trucks and tractors. Both mixes cost about the same.

In most parts of the country, the asphalt laid over a properly prepared aggregate base should be 2 to 3 in. thick. If you opt for a 3-in. thick surface, you can use the coarse asphalt mix for a 2-in. thick bottom layer for strength, and a 1-in. thick layer of the finer mix on the surface for a better appearance.

Required Materials for this asphalt driveway paving project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

Chimney basics

Chimney inspection

The cracks in this chimney crown have reached a critical point. If not sealed soon, they’ll destroy the crown and eventually the chimney.

Most homeowners never think about masonry chimney maintenance beyond the occasional flue cleaning. But ignoring your chimney can cost you big-time. A cracked chimney crown or spalling bricks can easily cost $1,000 to repair. And, if left untreated, the damage can accelerate quickly, and cost you upward of $3,000.

It doesn’t have to be that way. By simply sealing the bricks and the crown and adding a chimney cap, you’ll greatly extend your chimney’s life. The materials cost less than $300, and you can complete all three procedures in just a few hours. You’d pay a pro about $1,000 to do all three, so the savings is huge.

You’ll have to climb up on your roof twice (once to measure the flue liner to order the correct chimney cap and once to perform the procedures). And, you must be able to safely reach the chimney crown from your roof. If you can’t reach the chimney crown, have a very steep roof pitch or aren’t comfortable working on your roof, call a pro. If you decide you can handle the heights, make sure you wear a safety harness.

Meet the Pros

Jim Smart has owned Smart Sweep Chimney Service for 14 years. He and his son, Jesse, are certified professional chimney sweeps. Together, this father/son team inspects, cleans and repairs chimneys in the Minneapolis-St. Paul area. In addition to his chimney sweep certifications, Jim holds a certificate in forensic chimney fire analysis. In other words, Jim understands how chimneys work and fail. He’s a pro’s pro.

Project Details

Brushable crown sealer, $60

Chimney water repellent, $35

Garden pump sprayer, $35

Stainless steel chimney cap, $125

Tarps, duct tape, paintbrush

Start at the chimney crown

Apply the first coat of chimney sealer by hand

Scoop up a handful of the sealer and wipe it onto the crown. Force the sealant into the cracks and into the crown-to-brick seam.

What to Know Before Buying Diamond Blades

If you work in construction, it’s more than likely that you own a diamond blade or two. Cutting through hard materials like concrete, asphalt, tile, brick, and stone can be challenging, especially when you’re not using the proper blade. It can be a bit overwhelming trying to figure out which diamond blade to choose with all of the options out there.

There are four basic questions you should always ask yourself before picking a diamond blade for your next project:

What are you cutting?

The type of material you want to cut will determine what type of bond to look for. Bonds are the mixture of metals that hold the diamonds together and secure them on the blade. Different bonds have different wear rates depending on their density. Most bonds are referred to as soft, medium or hard. If you’re cutting very dense concrete, a softer bond will perform best. It seems counterintuitive, but you want the bonds to wear down faster when cutting hard materials. That’s because there are more diamonds buried in the bonding material below the surface of a new blade and as the blade wears down more fresh diamonds are exposed. The diamonds on a blade will either wear, fracture or get ripped off the blade. Proper wear is what you’re after. If you’re cutting brick or asphalt, you would want a blade with a harder bond. The diamonds will stay cooler when cutting softer materials which helps them maintain their integrity.

When choosing a blade and determining the hardness of bonds that you will be using, keep in mind that it will not always be listed on the packaging. Typically, the packaging of a blade will make it clear what the blade is meant to be used for. If a blade is made for cutting concrete, the packaging will say concrete and show a picture of concrete. It’s also important to remember that bond strengths are listed differently from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Bond strengths can be listed in numbers of 10,20,30,40,50 or 1000,2000,3000,4000,5000- it just depends on who is producing them. Some companies even label bond hardness by color. Just remember: the lower the number the softer the bond, and the higher the number the harder the bond.

What kind of saw are you using?

Each saw spins at a different RPM, and most blades are designed to be spun at a specific RPM. Installing a mismatched blade on your grinder or saw will result in inefficient cutting and could even lead to serious injuries. The blade package should state the blade’s proper RPM range.

Is it a wet or dry saw?

Years ago, most diamond blades needed a continuous supply of water to keep them cool. That’s because the diamonds were silver soldiered in place and couldn’t handle the heat. The diamonds on modern blades are welded on with lasers and can handle the heat better. But just because a blade is sold as a “dry blade” doesn’t mean that it won’t cut faster and last longer if you keep it cool with water.

What diameter blade is needed?

Diamond blades come in many different sizes. The most common sizes are between 4 and 16 inches. Always use the size that the tool manufacturer recommends.

Types of Diamond bBlades

Segmented blades

These are the most popular general use blades and usually have medium to hard bonds Segmented blades are perfect for dry cutting because segmentation helps keep them cool. Segmented blades are commonly used to cut pavers, concrete and asphalt.

Serrated (turbo)

The serrated edges on these blades pushes the debris out of the way which allows them to make fast smooth cuts. Serrated turbo blades can be used in wet and dry applications. With the soft to medium bonds, this blade is good for cutting tile, natural stone, marble and granite.

Continuous blades

These are the cleanest cutting blades, which makes them ideal for cutting finished edges. These blades are the slowest cutting of the bunch, and they do require water to keep them cool. With their softer bonds they are best for cutting hard material like ceramic tile and porcelain.

Mask off the surrounding area (Photo with step 1), then use the pump sprayer to apply a first coat followed by a “curtain” coat (Photo with step 2).

1. Protect Trim and Plants

Mask off surfaces, such as trim boards, siding, house numbers and mailboxes. Cover plants and grass with tarps to prevent kill-off from the spray.

2. Apply in Two Steps

Spray the stonework with the first coat of waterproofer. Then immediately apply a liberal, wet-on-wet “curtain coat” so that the solution drips down 6 to 8 in. over the entire surface.

There’s nothing better than a job well done in the great outdoors. Whether you want a quick morning project or are looking to add a real statement piece to your yard, we have you covered. Check out these 34 Awesome Outdoor DIY Projects to Get You Outside.

• 5-1/2” x 5-1/2” x 10” treated timbers (6)
• Wood stakes (4)
• Sheet of 3/4” plywood (1/2)
• 2×2 patio pavers (12)
• 1×1 patio pavers (12)
• Cubic yard concrete (1)
• 60-lb. bags of sand (4)
• 62” long, 3” x 3” x 1/4” steel angle (1)
• 3” x 1/2” lag screws (24)
• 3” x 1/2” concrete anchors (12)
• 2×4 x 8’ pine (1)
• 6” x 6” x 8’ cedar posts (12)
• 2×8 x 8’ cedar beams (8)
• 2×8 x 12’ cedar fascia (4)
• 2×6 x 7’ cedar stringers (4)
• 1/2” threaded rod 36” long (6)
• 1/2” nuts (24)
• 1/2” washer (56)
• 5” x 1/2” lag screws (8)
• 2×6 x 10’ cedar hip rafters (4)
• 2×6 x 7’ cedar common rafters (4)
• 2×6 x 8’ cedar jack rafters (4)
• 5/4 x 6 x 12’ cedar roof decking (30)
• Roll of roofing felt (1)
• Squares of No. 2 cedar shingles @ 200 sq. ft. (2)
• Cedar roof cap (40)
• 10d galv. common nails (10 lbs.)
• 8d galv. common nails (8 lbs.)
• 3d galv. box nails (10 lbs.)
• 12” spike nails (16)
• 16d galv. common nails (2 lbs.)

Tools Required

• Wheelbarrow
• Trowel
• Shovel
• 4-ft. level
• Hammer
• Sledgehammer
• Tape measure
• Tape measure
• Chalk line
• Framing square
• Socket wrench
• Hacksaw
• Chain saw
• Handsaw
• Circular saw
• Utility knife
• 12-in. Speed Square

Outdoor Pavilion Plans: Figure A

Outdoor Pavilion Plans: Figure B

Outdoor Pavilion Plans: Figure C

Outdoor Pavilion Plans: Figure D

Site Details

The pavilion’s patio base is easier to build if you have a level site. Uneven sites will have to be built up on the low side with extra landscape timbers.

To construct the patio, you’ll have to remote the turf with a sod cutter or shovel, then do a bit of digging. Our site has clay soil, which doesn’t drain well, so we added a few inches of sand beneath the timbers to drain away excess moisture. If your soil drains well, you can just dig to the thickness of the timbers and pour the 3/4-in. concrete base between the timbers, right over the undisturbed soil.

Getting Started With Outdoor Pavilion Plans

After you choose a site, pound stakes into the ground 11 ft. apart to establish your digging area. To make sure your staked area is square, just measure the diagonals. They must be equal to have a square perimeter. Stakes and string always seem to get in the way, so mark the turf with spray marking paint, which is available at hardware stores.

Dig out the turf to a level depth of 5-1/2 in. Cut timbers to the dimensions in the Materials List. (We used an electric chain saw, but a circular saw followed be a handsaw will do just fine.) Then spike them together at the corners. Tip: It’s best to stand on the timber you’re driving the spike into. It keeps the timbers from moving each time the sledge meets the spike. Spike the outside perimeter together first, then the inner as shown in Photo 2. After the timbers are joined, square the outside frame (remember, the diagonal measurements must be equal), then the inside frame. To make sure all the timbers are level and the inner frame is level with the outer frame, set a 4 ft. level along each timber. A bit of soil placed under the low sections will level them.

Before continuing, make sure the inside frame is 24-1/4 in. inside the outer frame on each side. Tamp a bit of soil around the timbers to hold them in place. You can also drive some wood stakes along the outside of each timber frame to keep it in position while you pour concrete. Now’s the time to prepare the pier forms for each corner as shown in the Figure A, so they’re ready when you pour the concrete.

Lay out an 11-ft. square area with marking paint. The area will be a bit larger than the patio to allow some elbow room to spike the timbers. Dig out the turf with a shovel or sod cutter to a depth of 5-1/2 in. If you have a low spot on any side, you may need extra timbers to level the area.

Connect the timbers with 12-in. spike nails at each corner. Build the exterior perimeter first, then the inner. Our soil was mostly clay, so we dug a bit deeper and laid the timbers over 2 in. of sand for better drainage.

Pouring Concrete

You’ll need a bit less than 1 cubic yard of concrete to fill the inside of the timbers to a depth of 3-1/4 in. That would be over 50 bags of dry concrete mix! Hand mixing would wear your palms to the bone and fix your back in a permanent bend. So call a ready-mix company and have them deliver 1 cu. yd. of concrete (about $90). This is a bit more than you need, but it’s worth having extra. To get the right concrete mixture, just tell them you’re pouring a sidewalk and they’ll send out the appropriate stuff.

Have a wheelbarrow or two ready along with a couple extra string backs when the truck pulls up. Pour the concrete into the forms and have a 2×4 ready like the one shown in Photo 3 to screed (smooth) the surface. The notches in the 2×4 screed are 2-1/4 in. deep. This will give you room for a sand to level the patio stones after the concrete is set. Next, screw the pier forms to the timbers.

Fill the pier forms with concrete (Photo 4) as soon as the area inside of the timber frame is poured and leveled. The concrete in the piers needs to bond with the concrete underneath, so work fast. A hot, dry day will give you only about an hour or less of working time, so don’t get sidetracked. The piers are the only part that has to work nice, so save the trowel work for them.

Screed the concrete 2-1/4 in. below the top of the timbers on the inside of both timber frames. Don’t worry about getting the surface smooth because later you’ll be putting a layer of sand over the hardened concrete to level the patio pavers.

Install the forms for the piers on each corner while the concrete below is still moist. Shovel a firm mixture of concrete into the forms and use a trowel to smooth it. The concrete can be shaped easily with a towel on the open sides of the forms.

Installing the Patio Pavers

The next day you’ll find the concrete hard enough to lay the patio pavers. You can buy these at most home centers or patio supply stores. Check the thickness of your pavers before you buy. Our pavers were a bit under 2 in. thick so we needed to level about 3/8 in. of sand (all-purpose or play sand from your home center) over the concrete as a bed for them. Make another screed like the one shown in Photo 3 with a notch cut the same thickness as your pavers. Pour in the sand and pull the screed board across the timbers to even the sand over the concrete. Next, lay the pavers in place as shown in the Figs. A and B. We selected two colors to complement the pavilion, but you can design your own pattern.

You may need to further level some of the corners of the patio stones. Just lift the paver and add or remove sand as needed (Photo 5). If your patio ended up a bit out of square, you may have to cut the edges of some pavers to make them fit. If so, but a masonry blade for your circular saw, put on some goggles and gloves, and trim the edges.

After spreading a thin layer of sand over the concrete, lay the patio stones in place. Sprinkle handfuls of sand to level the stones with the tops of the timbers.

Outline the post locations by tracing around the end cuts of the posts. Be sure you place the outer edges of the inner post 78 in. apart to get the right locations to conform with the beams above. This is crucial for the roof framing to align. Allow a 3-in. space between the inner and outer columns.

Making the Steel Post Supports

We made our 2 x 3 x 1/4-in. steel supports from a length of steel angle we purchased from a welding shop. You can cut the 5-in. lengths with an aluminum oxide metal-cutting blade placed in your circular saw, but it’s easier to have the welding shop cut them to length for you. Most shops have a shear that easily cuts the steel angle. It’ll probably cost about $1 per cut.

You can either drill the 9/16-in. holes in the post supports yourself, or if you don’t like working with metal, have the welding shop so the drilling too. If you do it yourself, use a heavy-duty electric drill. Start with a 1/4-in. hole, then enlarge it with a 9/16-in. bit. Be sure to clamp the supports in a vise to keep them from moving as you drill. Use a little motor oil on the bit as you drill to keep the bit cool.

When you’re done drilling the holes, file any sharp edges and clean the metal with mineral spirits. Spray paint the supports with two coats of rust-inhibiting paint.

Drill into the concrete piers to fasten the steel brackets made from 3 x 3-in. steel angle. The 1/2-in. concrete anchors grip the concrete as the nuts are tightened.

Fastening the Posts

Cut the cedar posts to length, then use the cut-off ends to help you lay out the locations for the steel supports. The posts should be 78 in. from the edges of the inner posts on each corner as shown in the Figure B. Mark the edges of each post location and the hole locations of the supports with a pencil. Drill 1/2-in. holes into the concrete to accept the concrete anchor bolts (Photo 7). This type of anchor is designed to grip the concrete as you tighten the nut. Drive the anchor bolts into the holes with a hammer, install the support, washer and nut and tighten the nut with a wrench.

While a helper holds each post against each steel support, drill 3/8-in. pilot holes through the support into the post for the 3 x 1/2-in. lag screws. Use a wrench to tighten the lag screws. Complete only two sides as shown in Photo 8.

Fasten each beam in place after clamping it to the posts. The bolts are made from 1/2-in. threaded rods. The beams are made from two 2×8 cedar boards.

Installing the Beams

You’ll also need assistance to get the beams in place and clamped while you drill for the threaded rod. Start with the longer beams as shown in Photo 8. Cut the 1/2-in. threaded rod to length with a hacksaw. Cut it 1/2 in. shorter than the measurement of two posts and the thickness of the beam. This will hide the rod ends, washers and nuts within the post.

Drill the countersink holes 1-1/4 in. deep into the posts. Then drill a 1/2-in. hole through the post, beam and the post on the backside. Drill very carefully so the bit comes out in the right location on the opposite side. You can buy a long bit at home centers. If you can’t find a long bit, can buy a 1/2-in. spade drill bit and an extension. Slip a washer and nut on the end of the rod and drive it through with a hammer. Put a washer and nut on the side and tighten each side with a socket wrench as shown in Photo 8.

Install the short beams the same way as the longer beams. These are fastened with just one steel rod. After the beams are in place, check to see if the posts are plumb using a level. If they need to be adjusted, install a 2×4 brace from the bottom of one post to the top of an opposite post, check for plumb again and nail it in place. Keep the brace in position until you’ve completed the roof.

Insert the threaded rods after drilling a countersink hole and a pilot hole. The countersink hole will recess the threaded rod, washers and nuts.

Position the notched stringers between the beams. You can bend 16d nails over as shown to hold them in place, then drill and insert the lag screws.

Framing the Roof

Install the double 2×6 interior stringers as shown in Photo 10. These stringers provide extra support as the roof pushes out against the beams. Nail the stringers together (avoid the center area) with 10d galvanized common nails, then notch the centers of each as shown in Photo 10. Fasten them flush with the top, and center each beam using two 5 x 1/2-in. lag screws.

Cut two longer hip rafters to the dimensions shown in Fig. C and fasten them together at the top with two 3-in. galvanized deck screws. Grab a partner and walk the rafter assembly up the ladders as shown in Photo 11 and nail it to the beams with four 10d galvanized common nails (two nails per side). Be sure the hip rafters fall directly over the intersections of the beams at the corners.

Next, cut the two remaining hip rafters; these are 3/4-in. shorter at the top than the other pair to make up for the thickness of the rafters already installed. Nail each of these to the pair of hip rafters.

Cut the four common rafters. You’ll notice in Fig. C that they have cheek cuts on the top. These 45-degree cuts on each side allow the common rafters to fit against the hips tightly. Nail them at the center of the beam and at the top as shown in Photo 12.

Next cut the jack rafters. These rafters have a compound cut at the top as shown in Fig. C. Four of them are right-sided and four are left-sided. Nail them to the beam and to the hip rafter with three 8d galvanized common nails as shown in Photo 12.

Now it’s time to cut the 2×8 fascia boards (Fig. A) and nail them to the rafter tails with 16d galv. common nails. You’ll need to tail them so 3/4 in. of each rafter is above the inside edge of the fascia. This will allow for the roof decking to sit flat on the tops of the rafters and the outside edge of the fascia.

Position the first set of hip rafters onto the beams. Get some assistance because this can be awkward. The hips should fall directly over the intersections of the beams.

Nail the jack rafters to the beams and hip rafters. Use 8d galvanized nails when nailing the jack rafters into the hip rafters.

Decking and Shingling the Roof

Our design uses 12-ft. pieces of 5/4 cedar decking for the roof deck, because it’s great looking from the inside and thick enough to keep the shingle nails from poking through. Starting at the bottom, place the first board so it hangs over the fascia 1-1/4 in. Nail the decking into the rafters with 8d galvanized common nails. Place the nails carefully because you’ll be able to see any goofs from inside the pavilion. Push the boards together so there aren’t any gaps between courses.

Once you’ve finished decking, staple 30-lb. roofing felt over the decking. We used No. 2 cedar shingles on the roof. They have a few knots but are rustic and add some charm to the structure. Your first row of shingles will be an underlayment for the first course. Let them hang beyond the bottom of the roof deck 1/2 in. Then nail shingles directly over this course, making sure to offset the seams with the underlayment course. Use 3d galvanized box nails. Start the next course 5 in. above the first. You can have an even reveal, or stagger the shingles, or stagger the shingles as shown in Photo 14.

Staggering them randomly gives a more hand-built look. Complete each side and trim the shingles as you go with a fine-toothed plywood blade in your circular saw. You can also shave the edges to fit with a utility knife of plane. To finish off the seams above the hips of the roof, use preassembled cedar roof caps, which are sold at lumberyards.

Finally, it’s a good idea to seal the entire pavilion with a deck sealer. This will keep the shingles, beams and posts from cracking in the sun. After two of three months, check the bolts, nuts and lag screws. As the wood dries and shrinks, they may need tightening.

My concrete slab got rust stains on it because the lawn sprinklers were fed from a well that was full of iron. It took about eight years for it to turn a deep rusty color. So I worked out a system that was cheap, easy and effective although one of the steps did take a bit of elbow grease. The whole process only took an hour or so for an 8-ft. x 20-ft. slab. You’ll need to buy a gallon or two of Acid Magic for about $15, a pump up sprayer and a good stiff brush that you can screw into a sturdy handle.

If the bricks in your siding or brick wall are breaking apart, simple patching probably won’t work. Any patch material you apply will just pop out again unless you solve the underlying expansion/contraction problem. The bricks in this photo, which are recycled Chicago-commons (a soft brick used at the turn of the last century) are cracking because they were set with one of the newer, nonflexing Portland cement mortars. The bricks move slightly with changes in weather, but the mortar doesn’t.

If you have a problem like this, there are two choices. Either reuse the old bricks but with the right mortar (lime mortar or lime putty), or rebuild with new bricks. Pick a brick that’s harder and more weather resistant.

Typical masonry chimney

A newer chimney crown should be several inches thick, reinforced with rebar and caulked to the clay flue. Older crowns may not be this solid, but if they’re basically sound they can be repaired with polyurethane caulk.

The crown of a masonry chimney is a concrete top that ideally looks something like the one shown. It has an angled top to shed water and it overhangs the brick to keep drips off the chimney sides. It surrounds the clay flues but doesn’t encase them. A 1/4-in. gap allows the clay flues to expand and contract from repeated heating and cooling without cracking (or cracking the crown). (The flues “float” inside the brick chimney walls; that is, they’re supported by the brick but not attached to it.) A high-quality polyurethane caulk seals the flue/crown gap and prevents water penetration.

In truth, few chimneys built before the mid-1980s have crowns built this well. Many early crowns were simply sloped washes of leftover mortar. Most have cracked and deteriorated, opening gaps around the flues. If you feel safe and confident about walking on your roof, climb up and inspect the crown. If it’s sound, caulk cracks and gaps with polyurethane. Otherwise, hire a chimney builder (search online or for “Chimney Builders and Repair” in your yellow pages) or a chimney sweep (“Chimney Cleaning”) certified by the Chimney Safety Institute to evaluate the condition of your chimney and fix it. Flue caps will help reduce water coming down the flue itself, but they won’t help much if you have a bad crown.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools]

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

The white material which appears on brick is a powdery mass of minerals called efflorescence. Efflorescence occurs when moisture moves through concrete or other masonry. The moisture picks up minerals, carries them to the surface of the masonry and leaves them behind in the form of tiny crystals on the surface as the moisture evaporates. The minerals themselves do no harm. You can simply brush them away.

A small amount of efflorescence is common. But if the amount of efflorescence on your chimney is excessive it may be cause for concern. Some could be caused by rainfall soaking into the brick. But more likely—and more serious—the problem is moisture in warm air from inside the house condensing on the interior of the chimney during cold weather. Or more alarming, your flue liner is cracked or broken and moist combustion gases from your furnace and water heater are leaking out onto the cold brick and condensing. This is a bad condition that will cause rapid brick and mortar deterioration.

We recommend that you have your chimney inspected by a licensed heating contractor or by a certified chimney sweep before the heating season begins this year. Either one will tell you whether you have to install a new chimney flue or liner, or point to any other moisture source that may be causing the excessive efflorescence.

Required Tools for this Project

You don’t need tools to start. You need to contact a contractor or a chimney sweep.