But what about hardwood floors?

“Hardwood floors can be a beautiful and durable addition to any space,” says Andrii Gurskyi, founder of the New York City maid service HomeClean. “But they can also be a breeding ground for bacteria and viruses.”

Here, Gurskyi shares his tips for disinfecting hardwood floors, gleaned from years of experience as a cleaning company owner.

Note: These tips are for finished wood floors. Never use any water or liquid cleaner on unsealed wood floors. Sealants protect wood by resisting water intrusion, and unfinished wood floors lack this layer of defense.

What’s the Difference Between Cleaning and Disinfecting Hardwood Floors?

According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), cleaning means physically removing dirt and germs from surfaces. To do that, we scrub them with soap (or a cleaner) and water, then rinse to remove the residue.

For hardwood floors, add one last step: drying the wood surface well. Water left to pool on wood leads to warping and mold growth, particularly if it seeps into the spaces between the boards.

Disinfecting means killing or inactivating germs, not just removing them. Disinfectants feature chemicals like bleach or alcohol that disrupt the bacteria or virus, usually by destroying their cell wall or metabolic processes.

The CDC says to always clean before disinfecting. That way you remove most of the problem organisms and dirt first, so the disinfectant can work on the microorganisms left behind.

Note: There’s also sanitizing and sterilizing.

Sanitizing is the level of microbe removal between cleaning and disinfecting. Sanitizers aren’t as strong as disinfectants, but can be a worthwhile alternative to harsh chemicals if you’re looking to reduce germs. Sterilizing means to eradicate all forms of microscopic life. That’s typically done in specific circumstances, like in healthcare facilities and commercial food canning operations.

Should Hardwood Floors Be Disinfected?

It depends.

Cleaning does a good job of removing dirt and germs, according to hardwood floor experts. But when there’s an illness outbreak, or you want to target areas where kids and pets track in dirt and germs, disinfecting your hardwood floor can be a good idea. Gurskyi says it’s crucial to disinfect properly, though, because harsh chemicals and water can damage wood.

How To Disinfect Hardwood Floors

“Look for disinfectants that are specifically designed for hardwood floors, or those that are labeled safe for use on wood,” Gurskyi says. “Avoid using harsh chemicals that can damage the finish of the floor or leave streaks.”

Read the label carefully, and always test a small area to be sure the disinfectant won’t harm your floor.

Tools and materials for disinfecting hardwood floors

• Wood-safe disinfectant like Lysol Clean & Fresh Multi-Surface Cleaner;
• Bucket;
• Mop with wringing action;
• Microfiber cloth (optional).

Sweep the floor

“Before you begin disinfecting your hardwood floors,” Gurskyi says, “you need to make sure they are free of any dirt or debris.” Use a broom or vacuum to remove any loose dirt, dust and hair. Don’t forget to reach into all the corners and under furniture.

Dilute the disinfectant

“Most disinfectants come in concentrated form,” Gurskyi says, “which means you’ll need to dilute them before use.” Add the product to the bucket and dilute as recommended on the label.

Don’t go overboard. You won’t kill germs any better if you use more than indicated, so follow the instructions to the letter. Using too much could leave a residue on the surface of the wood — or worse, damage the finish.

Apply the disinfectant

Apply the solution to the floor with a mop for a large area, or a microfiber cloth for a small one. Wring out the mop or cloth well between passes to avoid pooling. After you’ve tested a small area, cover the entire surface of the floor with the disinfectant.

Pro tip: Clorox Disinfecting Wipes are safe for wood floors, Gurskyi says. They can be used to quickly disinfect high-traffic areas without doing the entire floor.

Allow to sit, then rinse

Disinfectants need time to work, so it’s important to allow the disinfectant to sit on the floor for the full time recommended on the product label. Then rinse the floor with clean water from a well-wrung mop or cloth.

Dry the floor

Almost done.

“Finally, use a clean, dry cloth or mop to dry the floor,” Gurskyi says. “Avoid leaving any excess moisture on the surface, as this can cause the wood to warp or cup.”

Now that your hardwood floors are clean and disinfected, keep them that way! Sweep your hardwood floors regularly, and remove shoes at the door to avoid tracking in dirt and germs.

The Benefits of Infloor Heat

Once you shed your fuzzy slippers and discover the comfort of warm floors, you’ll be sold. Heated floors, often called radiant floors or a radiant heat system, offer benefits beyond foot comfort. They keep entry and bathroom floors dry and provide space heating in cold rooms. You can even turn down the thermostat for your central heating system and still keep some rooms warmer.

In this article, we’ll walk you through the types of radiant floor systems you can install in your home. We’ll tell you the pros and cons, and show you key installation techniques. This will help you decide whether to take on the project yourself or hire a professional. These heating systems are most often installed under ceramic tile in bathrooms, but keep in mind that you can add heat under any type of flooring material. All floor heating systems warm the floor with either electricity or hot water.

Electric Systems are Simple and Affordable

Electric floor systems work just like an electric blanket: Electricity runs through “resistance” cable and creates heat. Because electricity is fairly expensive, relatively few homes are entirely heated by in-floor electric systems. However, these systems are great for making especially cold floors foot-friendly. They also boost the temperature in an otherwise chilly room by a few degrees. The warm floor in a bathroom makes getting out of the shower a cozier prospect on a cold day. That’s the payoff.

Electric systems have three components: heat cable, a thermostat and a temperature sensor. The thermostat is connected to the home’s power supply and turns the heat on and off according to the floor’s (not the room’s) temperature. A sensor installed in the floor along with the cable tells the thermostat how warm the floor is. (Most people prefer a floor temperature of 80 to 90 degrees F.) The thermostat and sensor are packaged together; cable is usually sold separately. Don’t use a thermostat from one manufacturer with cable from another.

The electrical connections require only basic wiring know-how, and laying the floor cable is a DIY-friendly project. Because of this easy installation—and the lower cost of materials—an electric system is usually the best choice for small-scale projects like heating a kitchen floor or warming up a cold bathroom. Adding electric heat to a typical bathroom when you install a new floor adds only $200 to $300 to the cost of the project. Operating costs are typically about a half cent per square foot per day.

Often the biggest challenge is “fishing” electrical cable through finished walls to the thermostat and cable. Since these systems generally draw only 10 to 15 watts per sq. ft., you can usually connect them to an existing circuit to heat a typical bathroom. For a larger room, you may have to run a new cable to the main panel and pay an electrician about $120 to connect the new circuit there.

If you’re installing heat over a wood-framed floor, place fiberglass insulation between the joists to drive the heat upward. The system will work fine without insulation but will be more efficient with it. Before you install an electric system over a concrete floor, check the manufacturer’s instructions— they may require a layer of foam insulation over the concrete before the heat cable is installed.

Tip: When you estimate the square footage of a room, include only the areas where you can walk; it makes no sense to heat the floor under appliances or behind the toilet.

Electric system #1: Loose cables

The cable comes on a spool, just like any other wire. Loose cable is by far the cheapest way to heat a floor and it’s just as effective as the other systems. The drawback of loose cable is installation time; you have to position the cable in a serpentine pattern, fasten it with lots of hot glue or staples, and then “embed” it.

Most loose cable systems include end channels that guide spacing. You can place cables close together to make the floor heat up faster and reach a higher temperature or farther apart to use less cable. Manufacturers offer various cable lengths to suit the floor’s square footage. You can’t splice sections of cable together to serve a larger room or repair damaged cable (this is true of all electric systems). Fasten the cable every 6 in. so it can’t shift or float while you embed the cable.

Caution: Work carefully with your trowel. If you nick the cable, the entire system won’t work.

There are two ways to embed cable: You can install the cable over tile backer board and then cover it with “thin-set,” the mortar adhesive used for ceramic tile. The thin-set shrinks as it cures, so you may have to add a second layer after the first hardens to level it out. But creating a perfectly flat, smooth surface with thin-set is difficult. You can make it smooth enough for ceramic tile or a floating floor but probably not smooth enough for vinyl flooring. For a faster, smoother surface, install the cable without backer board and pour on “self-leveling compound,” or SLC. SLC is a cement-based powder that you mix with water and then pour over the cable. It becomes rock hard in a few hours. Reinforce the SLC with plastic lath; metal lath can cut the cable. Covering your floor with a 1/2-in.-thick layer of SLC costs about $2 per sq. ft., including the lath. You can then lay tile, carpet, vinyl or a floating floor directly over the SLC.

Electric System #2: Mesh Mats

The cable comes already woven into a plastic net. The pre-positioned cable installs quickly—in less than half the time for loose cable. You simply staple or hot glue the mesh to the floor. As with loose cable, you then embed the cable and mesh.

Mats are available in lots of different dimensions. You can cut the mesh into sections to cover your floor or fit around corners. But you can’t cut or splice the cable itself. Some manufacturers recommend combing thin-set directly over the mesh and setting tile all in one operation. But this is difficult. Most tile setters prefer to embed the mesh first with thin-set or SLC just as with loose wire. The mesh tends to “float” as you embed it, so fasten it to the floor every 6 in.— even if the instructions recommend less fastening. After embedding it, you can lay tile, carpet, vinyl or a floating floor.

Electric system #3: Solid mats

Solid mats are often the most expensive electric system, but they’re also the easiest to install. The cable is completely enclosed in synthetic fabric, plastic sheeting or metal foil. The big advantage is that you don’t have to embed it as you do loose cable or mesh mats. With some versions, you simply smooth the mat onto a bed of thin-set. Then you spread more thin-set over the mat and set ceramic or stone tile as you normally would. Some solid mat systems are even easier to install; you just roll out the mats, tape them together and you’re done. You can then lay a floating wood or laminate floor directly over it.

Mats are available in various dimensions, and you can combine mats of different sizes to cover your floor. Some mats are sized to fit between joists, so you can heat the floor from below — a big advantage if you don’t want to replace an existing floor. However, don’t install electric heat under a subfloor unless the system is specifically intended for that method.

Floor Coverings and Heated Floors

Any flooring material can cover a heated floor, but some work better than others.

• Ceramic and stone tile are the most common. Heat doesn’t harm them and they hold and conduct heat best.
• Solid wood floors can develop gaps if they dry and shrink when heated. If you opt for solid wood, leave the installation to an experienced pro who will test the moisture content of the wood to avoid shrinkage.
• Floating floors made from wood or plastic laminate don’t develop gaps because they’re not fastened directly to the subfloor. But you’ll have to limit the floor temperature. Flooring warranties often limit the temperature to 85 degrees F.
• Vinyl floors have similar temperature restrictions, whether they’re sheet vinyl or tile.
• Carpets or rugs can go over a heated floor, but they act as insulators and reduce heat flow to your feet and to the room as a whole. If you choose electric heat under hard flooring and plan to use an area rug, consider installing the cables only under the flooring that won’t be covered by the rug.

Hydronic systems heat space as well as your toes

Hydronic radiant floor heating installation:

In a hydronic system, heated water from a boiler or a water heater runs through loops of flexible plastic tubing called “PEX.” (PEX can be used for household water supply lines too.) The hot tubes then heat the floor. The main advantage of hydronic systems is that they generally deliver more heat at a lower operating cost than electric systems. That’s why hydronic heat is usually a better option than electric systems to heat large floor areas or even an entire house. However, because they usually involve a boiler, a pump and gas lines, hydronic systems are more complex than electric systems. You can install hydronic floor heat yourself, but you need basic electrical and plumbing know-how as well as professional design help.

Hydronic radiant floor heating installation cost:

The materials for a small-scale hydronic project will cost at least $600.

The easiest—and least expensive—way to install PEX is to run it under a subfloor between joists using transfer plates and insulation. This method costs less than $2 per sq. ft. for tubing, plates and insulation. To install PEX on top of a wood-framed or concrete floor, you need to lay a grooved channel system over the floor or embed the tubing in self-leveling compound. Covering PEX requires more SLC than you can mix yourself; leave that to pros who have special mixing and pumping equipment (at least $2 per sq. ft. for the SLC only). With a concrete floor, you may have to lay foam insulation over the slab before installing PEX. In new construction, the tubing is often installed over insulation and the concrete slab is poured over it.

A hydronic system requires several expensive components. But several rooms share the components, so the more area you heat, the lower the cost per square foot. If you want to heat 200 sq. ft. or more of floor, a hydronic system may cost less to install than electric heat.

The heat source for a hydronic system can be a boiler or a standard water heater. If your home is already heated by hot water radiators or baseboard units, there’s a good chance that your existing boiler can handle the hydronic system as well. If you don’t have a boiler, a water heater can heat one room or several, depending on the size of the water heater. If you’re building an addition, you may find that installing a water heater–powered hydronic floor is less expensive than extending your existing central heating system.

Aside from PEX, a heat source and a pump, a hydronic system may require components such as electric zone valves. It may also require additional pumps. You can install these components yourself, but don’t try to design a system yourself. Look for a company that specializes in helping homeowners plan and install hydronic systems. Before you choose to install a system yourself, get bids from professionals. It will help you decide whether the money saved is worth your time and effort.

Still, you’re probably safe going ahead with solid wood flooring if your basement is dry, already has a plywood subfloor, and you’re simply replacing an existing floor covering, like carpet. You’ll want to avoid solid wood flooring if your basement has a concrete floor, though. Even if the concrete is sealed, moisture can seep through and warp solid wood flooring. You’ll also have to address the issue of how to install nail-down flooring on a concrete basement floor. You could glue it and leave absorbent hardwood in direct contact with potentially moisture-laden concrete — which is risky — or you could install a plywood subfloor.

Engineered wood flooring is a more practical option for the basement. It has a stabilizing core of plywood or fiberboard that helps prevent warping, and each plank is coated on all sides with a durable, moisture-resistant finish. Engineered flooring is available in a snap-together format that lets you install it as a floating floor, and once installed, it looks exactly like solid hardwood. To be on the safe side, choose a product rated for below-grade installation.

Benefits of Basement Wood Flooring

The qualities of hardwood flooring that make it a popular choice for the rest of the house also apply to basement installation. If you choose engineered flooring, there are even more added benefits:

• Luxurious appearance. Hardwood flooring enhances any room in the house, but none more than a basement. The warm tones of real wood offset the darkness and make the space visually more inviting. Choose from a wide selection of wood grains and tones.
• Easy to Install. When you install engineered wood flooring as a floating floor, you simply snap planks together like puzzle pieces. Anyone with the skill to use a circular saw to cut planks to length can do the installation.
  
• Increases home value. The conventional wisdom is that wood flooring increases home value. This is true even if you install it in the basement.
• Comfortable for walking. Wood flooring is already more comfortable for walking than concrete, but when you install engineered flooring with a cushioning underlayment, it’s even more so. The extra padding, as well as the wood itself, help insulate the floor.

Drawbacks of Basement Wood Flooring

The number-one reason to avoid wood flooring in the basement is its susceptibility to moisture, but you’ve got that covered if you purchase an engineered wood floor product rated for below-grade installation (and you properly prep the subfloor.) There are some other drawbacks:

• Products vary in quality. Lower-grade engineered flooring planks have fiberboard cores that may absorb moisture even if the planks are sealed.
• Expensive. Engineered hardwood flooring costs from $3 to $9 per square foot, on average. Top-quality products can cost even more. And that’s without installation, which can add another $3 to $5 per square foot if you don’t do it yourself.
• Vulnerable to scratching. The factory finish on engineered flooring is very durable, but it’s still vulnerable to scratches from pets, kids and heavy objects. When scratches completely ruin the floor’s appearance, you can sand and refinish once or twice, but not indefinitely.

Installing Basement Wood Flooring

Gluing hardwood flooring to concrete in the basement is risky. If you choose nail-down flooring, it’s safer to install a plywood subfloor on 2×4 sleepers to keep it off the concrete and nail the flooring to the plywood. If you go this route, you’ll raise the floor level (possibly by several inches), so you’ll have to plan for that. You’ll also create a potential moisture trap under the subfloor unless you install a vapor barrier and seal the concrete.

If you choose a basement-safe engineered wood flooring product that installs as a floating floor, you won’t have to go to this trouble. You can install it directly on a concrete slab, although you should seal the concrete first with a waterproofing sealer and lay down a moisture-proof underlayment. Engineered flooring planks snap together, and once the floor is in, it looks virtually indistinguishable from a nail-down or glue-down floor.

Basement Flooring Alternatives

Wood and wood fibers are inherently vulnerable to moisture and shouldn’t be installed in a basement with moisture problems. Here are some alternatives:

SPC luxury vinyl planks

SPC stands for solid polymer construction, which means the rigid core of the vinyl planks is made entirely from inorganic materials that include crushed stone and resin. SPC flooring is affordable, snaps together like laminate and provides good cushioning and thermal insulation. It isn’t wood, but it’s designed to look like it.

Ceramic tiles

A concrete subfloor is an ideal substrate for laying ceramic tile. Because some expansion and contraction of the subfloor is to be expected, you should install a decoupling membrane on the subfloor before laying the tiles to prevent cracking.

Carpet

The basement is no place for natural fiber carpet, but synthetic fibers can handle a limited amount of moisture and provide coziness underfoot. Polyester, nylon, olefin and triexta are four possible choices. Go with cut pile rather than loop pile for maximum breathability and moisture resistance.

Epoxy

If your basement floor tends to stay damp because your house is built on a high water table, the best floor covering may be a coat of epoxy paint. Epoxy, being an impermeable plastic resin, helps control seepage from underneath, and if the concrete is in good condition, it looks great.

Replacement probably wouldn’t have been necessary had I chosen rigid core flooring, and I wouldn’t have worked so hard to install it. The floor would have look great and been more comfortable to walk on, too.

Rigid core flooring is synthetic, but it comes in a huge number of patterns. I probably could have found one that resembled the narrow-slat oak I actually chose.

Working at the time as a professional hardwood flooring installer and refinisher, I favored real hardwood. That was then and this is now. Today I wouldn’t hesitate choosing rigid core flooring for my kitchen because it’s waterproof and luxurious, which is probably why they also call it luxury vinyl flooring.

You do have to get past its plastic-like appearance, but manufacturers are making it easier by improving the finish.

What Is Rigid Core Flooring?

Rigid core flooring is a type of vinyl plank flooring constructed in four or five layers, depending on the product. Most luxury vinyl plank (LVP) flooring sold these days is rigid core flooring. Because the core is an engineered composite, it’s also known as engineered vinyl plank (EVP) flooring.

The top wear layer (the one you walk on) features a scratch-resistant coating. A water-resistant topcoat beneath that protects the vinyl design layer underneath, which can mimic stone, ceramic tile or wood. The next layer is a rigid composite core of crushed limestone or wood fibers combined with plastic resin. Most products have a water-resistant cork underlayment as a final layer that provides extra cushion and insulation.

Pros and Cons of Rigid Core Flooring

Rigid core flooring is 100 percent waterproof and would have easily stood up to the water leak in my kitchen. It’s a great choice for below-grade installations like basements, where other types of flooring would warp or separate from the subfloor. Like most products, it comes with number of advantages and some drawbacks.

Pros

• Design flexibility: It comes in lots of patterns, including imitation stone and hardwood. The color range is equally varied.
• Sound and thermal insulation: Products with a cork underlayment act like carpeting, attenuating the noise of footsteps and preventing heat loss through the floor.
• Long warranty periods: These generally last 20 to 25 years.
• Easy to install: Homeowners can save money by installing it themselves.
• Can be installed almost anywhere: Rigid core flooring holds up well in moist, high-traffic areas like laundry rooms, entryways and basements. Some brands can even work outdoors.

Cons

• Can be uncomfortable: Brands that lack the cork underlayment layer can be as rigid as hardwood.
• Not as long-lasting as some other materials: Though warranties run for up to 25 years, it won’t outlast hardwood or ceramic tile.
• Somewhat fragile: The surface coating is scratch-resistant, not scratch-proof. Heavy foot traffic, pet nails and spills all take their toll and can make the floor look worn.
• Color fades: Vinyl flooring must be protected from direct sunlight to prevent the color from fading and washing out.

How Much Does Rigid Core Flooring Cost?

It ranges from $1.70 to $8 per square foot (psf), depending on brand, with a national average of about $4 psf. That’s less than engineered hardwood flooring ($3 to $10 psf) and stone tile ($5 to $10 psf), but more expensive than laminate, ceramic tile or carpet.

The real savings come when you forgo professional installation, which costs from $4 to $7.50 psf, and do the job yourself. This is more feasible with rigid core flooring than most other types of flooring except perhaps laminate.

Of note: Today, rigid core flooring is virtually synonymous with LVP or luxury vinyl tile (LVT) flooring, because the rigid core replaces the flexible core in older versions.

How To Install Rigid Core Flooring

If you’ve ever installed laminate flooring, you know all there is to know about installing rigid core flooring. The planks have snap-together tongues and grooves. Because the floor isn’t attached to the subfloor, you can assemble the planks like a jigsaw puzzle.

To cut a plank, simply score it with a knife and break it across a straight edge. You might need a power saw to cut a notch or fit the flooring around a curve.

Rigid core flooring with a backing needs no underlayment, but you may want to install one anyway for extra insulation and cushioning. It’s also important to lay it on a flat surface. Installing it on a concrete subfloor may require some leveling first. This type of floating floor needs baseboards to hold it down, so factor that into your DIY installation plan.

I’m a former residential carpenter with vinyl plank flooring installation and repair experience. I collaborated with Nick Yahoodain, CEO of Advanced Builders and Contractors, to create this guide to fixing vinyl plank flooring.

If you’re comfortable with DIY home improvement projects and you kept a few extra planks, you can fix vinyl plank flooring. Yahoodain recommends reading the back of the flooring box if you have it or checking the manufacturer’s site to make sure you’re not voiding any warranties.

End Plank Separation

Multiple factors can cause planks to separate. Humidity levels or physical shifting due to high foot traffic can cause unsightly gaps between the ends of planks. This is more typically an issue with click-lock floors than with adhesive installations. Fortunately, this also is one of the easiest problems to fix.

• Vacuum the gap to remove any dust or debris. This creates a tight seam between the two planks.
• Attach a suction cup to the board you intend to scoot toward the other.
• Tap the suction cup with the rubber mallet, scooting the board into the other and closing the gap.
• Continue this method to eliminate the resulting gap at the other end. The last gap should be hidden behind your baseboard.

Side Plank Separation

Humidity and temperature changes can cause planks to contract, creating gaps along the sides. Improper installation can also be the culprit. Either way, these unsightly spaces can be easily fixed with a tube of putty.

• Purchase a putty specifically for vinyl flooring use; some putties and caulks aren’t rated to withstand foot traffic. If possible, select a color that closely matches that of your floor.
• Vacuum and thoroughly clean the gap. Let it dry overnight.
• Position the nozzle of the putty tube in the gap, squeeze, then run it along the length of the gap.
• Run a plastic putty knife along the gap to remove any excess. Wipe up any remaining putty on the plank with a damp sponge.
• Allow the putty to dry and set according to the instructions.

Pop-Ups

Planks sometimes pop up and out of place. These unsightly exposed edges can catch on your shoes or socks, causing you to trip. If failed glue causes the pop-up, follow the steps below. It’s a moisture issue warping the subfloor below, contact a flooring or plumbing pro to properly diagnose the cause.

• Carefully peel up and remove the popped-up plank with a scraper tool. You can re-use this plank if it’s in good shape. If not, go with a new plank.
• Scrape off the dried adhesive on the subfloor below and vacuum up any debris.
• Apply a VPF adhesive to the subfloor, closely following the application instructions.
• Place the plank on top of the adhesive and, with a roller, press it down tight. Place a dumbbell or other heavy object on the board while the adhesive dries.

Scratches

Minor scratches on LVP flooring are often hard to see unless you look really closely. Deep scratches appear as white lines that can be an eyesore, especially on dark-colored planks. Eliminating these white lines is simple and DIY-friendly.

Scratches are often caused by chairs scraping across the floor, so make sure you always use felt floor protectors under your chair feet.

• Thoroughly clean the plank with soap and water to remove any dirt or grease from the scratch.
• Use a furniture repair marker or a repair pen to color in the white lines. These markers and pens are available in many popular LVP flooring colors.
• If your scratches are really noticeable and contained to one or two planks, replace the plank with a new one if you’re comfortable doing it.

Gouges/Dents

Gouges and dents that penetrate several layers of the plank are notoriously difficult to repair. Because most vinyl plank flooring has a wood grain pattern, it can be difficult to make an invisible patch.

If you have extra planks, it’s probably easier to replace the plank than to patch the gouge. But if the gouge or dent is not too deep, or you don’t have spare planks, try filler putty.

• Purchase a color-matched filler putty formulated for use with vinyl plank flooring.
• Wash the dented or gouged plank to create a clean and smooth work surface. Allow it to dry completely.
• Fill the damaged area with the putty, removing any excess with a plastic putty knife.
• Follow any specific drying and sanding instructions for the putty you used.

Cupping

Cupping occurs when the edges of the planks rise up, creating a concave “cup” shape.

Before attempting to repair cupped flooring, it’s important to find out exactly what’s causing it. If it’s high humidity or temperature fluctuations, the planks can potentially return to their original shape by running a humidifier or installing curtains to prevent direct sunlight exposure.

But if the issue is moisture damage underneath the flooring, you’ll likely need to replace the cupped planks. Contact a flooring installer or plumber to diagnose the cause.

I interviewed two professional house cleaning experts — Alessandro Gazzo of Emily’s Maids in Dallas, and Alex Varela, general manager of Dallas Maids of Frisco in Frisco, Texas — to learn the best ways to clean LVP floors.

What is Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring?

Luxury vinyl plank flooring is made of compressed layers of vinyl, typically with wood grain texture that simulates the look of natural hardwood flooring. The multiple layers make LVP more durable and comfortable to walk on than standard vinyl flooring manufactured in large, flexible sheets.

Also, unlike laminate flooring with a wood particle core more susceptible to water damage, the vinyl core of LVP won’t be effected by moisture.

How Is Cleaning LVP Flooring Different From Cleaning Other Flooring?

Cleaning LVP is similar to cleaning other plank flooring options like natural hardwood, engineered hardwood and laminate flooring with seams between the planks. The seams allow standing water to seep through and possibly damage the subfloor below, so it’s essential to use the smallest amount of liquid when mopping.

Also, unlike hard flooring options like stone or tile, LVP and other plank flooring must be vacuumed or swept frequently to prevent dirt and grime from scratching the surface. Because LVP cannot be sanded or refinished like natural hardwood flooring, these scratches are permanent.

Products Needed To Clean Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring

According to both experts, you’ll keep your LVP floors looking good and free of dirt and grime with a few basic cleaning items.

• Broom and dustpan: A standard bristle broom is sufficient to sweep and capture loose dirt and debris. This O-Cedar model features an angled head that’s perfect for reaching into corners, and a cleaning comb to pull out dust bunnies and hair.
• Microfiber mop: Gazzo says string mops can apply too much water and recommends microfiber models only. We’ve had great success with this O-Cedar mop. Its bucket wringer lets you regulate the amount of water applied.
• White or apple cider vinegar: Standard strength vinegar provides the acidity needed to remove dirt and grime without leaving a soapy residue behind. Varela recommends apple cider vinegar because it provides the same cleaning properties as white vinegar, plus “a little extra fragrance.”
• pH-neutral floor cleaner: Standard cleaners like dish soap can leave streaks. Varela recommends a pH-neutral option. This Bona floor cleaner is pH neutral and doesn’t contain ammonia that can damage vinyl flooring.

How To Clean Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring

According to Varela, LVP flooring is easy to clean. Sweeping and mopping regularly is enough to make your LVP floors last for many years.

1. Sweep with a broom to remove loose sand or dirt. This prevents debris from scratching your floors over time and preps the surface for mopping. You can use a vacuum, but make sure it has a “bare floor” setting that won’t scratch or scuff the surface.
2. Create a cleaning solution. Varela recommends combining a 1/2-cup each of apple cider vinegar and a pH-neutral floor cleaner in a gallon of warm water.
3. Use a microfiber mop with the cleaning solution, and be sure to use only enough liquid to clean the floors without leaving excess behind. Varela adds leaving your windows open can speed up drying. Stand in the furthest corner of the room and work your way forward. Then move slightly to the side and backwards, overlapping the previous path by half. Repeat this over the length of the floor, “This way you will cover the entire surface twice, more than enough to clean your floors properly,” Varela says.

How Often To Clean Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring

Your cleaning frequency will of course depend on how much foot traffic, cooking, playing, etc. go on in your home, along with whether or not you have pets. But sweeping LVP flooring often is a must.

Mannington, a popular LVP manufacturer, recommends at least once per week, while Gazzo says “every other day is fine.” According to Gazzo, LVP should also be mopped once a week if you have pets or kids, and at least twice a month if you don’t.

I know from my background in trim carpentry and cabinetmaking the trials of dragging around an air compressor and nail gun from outlet to outlet nailing up moldings, casings, and trim. When I saw that Metabo was set to release a 36-volt cordless air compressor, I was eager to see it’s stamina and power.

What Is the Metabo Cordless Air Compressor?

The Metabo HPT 36v MultiVolt 2-Gallon Cordless Air Compressor is a 36-volt, battery-operated air compressor that outputs a max 135 PSI (pounds per square inch) and 1.6 CFM (cubic feet per minute) at 90 PSI. The green and black, milk crate sized compressor can either be powered by a single 36-volt battery or a work all-day AC adapter, when wall power is available (both sold separately). The Metabo 36v Cordless Air Compressor is designed with a sturdy metal roll cage for added durability and equipped with a strong, oil-free, brushless motor that’s nearly maintenance free. It features a quarter-inch brass industrial coupler, and weighing less than 30 pounds, with the battery, it’s lightweight and easy to haul.

How We Tested It

With only a loose flooring transition strip to re-adhere and a few feet of baseboard to install in my newly finished hallway, there wasn’t much on the to-do list that will test the capabilities of the Metabo 36v Cordless Air Compressor.

However, I had plenty of 18-gauge and 15-gauge nails, a 25-foot air hose and plenty of scrap wood, so I started shooting some nails to put it through the ringer. Metabo boasts that it can shoot 1,000, 18-gauge nails on a single charge. I wanted to test that claim, as well as seeing how it functions when shooting larger 15-gauge nails. I also wanted to see how loud this compact compressor’s brushless motor is.

Performance Review

Performance

After charging up the 4-amp hour battery and setting the PSI to 90, I pulled out my 15-gauge nailer and a box of two-inch nails.  I laid a scrap of ¾-inch floor underlayment across a set of sawhorses. And started popping away, testing the compressor’s might.

I nailed on, shooting a nail every second or so, until the compressors motor kicked onto replenish its tank. With the 15-gague nails, this happened every 8 to 10 nails and took between 16 and 24 seconds to refill, depending on power left in the battery. I kept shooting, stopping, finally, when the battery didn’t have enough juice to fill the tank and there wasn’t enough air to set the nail heads below the plywood’s surface.  I drove 153 15-gauge nails on a single charge.  Not Bad.

Next was the 18-gague nail test. I again charged up the battery and emptied the air tank to start both tests on a level playing field. Same process as before, I shot a two-inch, 18-gauge nail once per second, roughly, pausing for the tank to refill. With the smaller nails, the tank refilled every 18 to 21 nails, and did this 21 times before the battery died.  All in all, that was 412 two-inch, 18-gauge nails before the battery was dead and the tank was too empty to set anymore.

The two tests also opened my eyes to how loud the brushless motor is. Having to listen to its blaring hum, 40-plus times, through my OSHA approved, Spotify connected, earmuffs, I was hoping for something quieter. I downloaded a decibel app on my phone. As a comparison tool, compared the reading between the Metabo and my ancient plug-in compressor. I was surprised to find nearly identical 78 and 78.1 decibel readings, respectively, which is a bummer when you consider the quiet compressor technology of today.

After all those nails, the to-do list was a walk in the park. The portability of the Metabo cordless air compressor is the real hero. Maneuvering it through rooms and up and down stairs, without having to find an outlet or run an extension cord is a welcome game-changer.

Value

I utter some form of this spiel every time I discuss a battery-operated tool. A large chunk the value of battery-operated tools is tied to the battery and charger itself. Personally, I think this is a top-notch tool, worth every penny of the $300 price tag, but I already own a Metabo battery and charger. If you have to figure in the additional costs of these items, it will cost almost $120 more. That makes it a little harder pill to swallow.

Reliability and Durability

The Metabo 36-volt cordless air compressor feels solid and well-made. The heavy-duty tank and cage will protect and keep this unit in good working order for years down the line. I’m also an advocate of Metabo brand tools overall.  Metabo, previously Hitachi, has a long track record of making quality power tools, and this cordless air compressor follows that.

Ease of Use

Modern compressors are user friendly machines, and this Metabo is no different.  It functions using a single on/off switch and a dial to adjust air pressure. It’s also nearly maintenance free, due to its oil-free, brushless motor. Just stay on top of draining the condensation from the tool’s tank so it won’t corrode over time.

Why You Should Buy This

Firing off as many nails as I did made for a respectable showing for this battery-operated compressor. It’s lightweight, durable, user-friendly, well-made and powerful. It’s Maybe not as stout as it claims, but strong enough for any trim project. I do wish the compressor was quieter, but I’d deal with a few extra decibels rather than hassle with climbing over a pile of extension cords on the job site every day.

Where to Buy

The Metabo HPT MultiVolt 2-Gallon Cordless Air Compressor is available at Amazon and Lowe’s.

Buy Now!

Hemp is one of the fastest-growing plants on Earth; it can be harvested in three to four months. Speedy regeneration makes it popular for commercial goods.

Hemp fibers have been spun into usable material for millennia worldwide. And our fore­fathers, including Thomas Jefferson and George Washington, documented hemp farming. No record exists of their recreational use of hemp; that’s not why they farmed it.

The 2018 U.S. Farm Bill was amended to legalize agricultural hemp. That changed the marketplace for hemp products. Unlike marijuana, hemp is farmed so it has lower concentrations of tetrahydrocannabinol, or THC. In higher concentrations, THC gives marijuana its mind-altering effects. We don’t care about that; we just want to alter some lumber and other building products.

Hemp Building Products

Hemp is commonly used for its fibers, which are spun into yarn, rope and canvas materials.

The fibers are evolving well beyond just twine. A company called Hempitecture, based in Ketchum, Idaho, makes a concrete block-like product that fits in a growing category of “hempcrete” materials. The product is more like rigid insulation than structural concrete; it’s nonstructural and not load-bearing.

Hempitecture received support from the U.S. Department of Energy to develop its HempWool insulating material. The company claims this material has an insulating value of R3.7 per inch. That’s easily as good as traditional insulating materials.

Even more interesting for DIYers and homeowners is a company called HempWood, based in Murray, Kentucky. Greg Wilson founded HempWood in 2018 after that Farm Bill passed, and he partnered with Murray State University and the Center for Agricultural Hemp to work on creating plant-based solutions to the environmental shortcomings of traditional lumber products.

We spoke with HempWood executives and got some product samples to work with.

Family Handyman: How does hemp go from a farmed crop to manufactured wood products and lumber?

HempWood: Growing hemp includes working with our local farmers, and they are all within 100 miles of us, to harvest a crop similar to hay. Once the hemp reaches maturity, it’s harvested and transported to our headquarters in Murray, Kentucky. And it goes from seed to lumber in 150 days.

We begin manufacturing by submerging the hemp in soy-based adhesive. After that, we dry and press it into a 6-in. x 6-in. x 6-ft. steel mold. Then it’s baked and extruded from the mold. HempWood blocks are the first form. From there we create lumber, finished and natural flooring, paneling, blanks for wood turning, and DIY products and kits.

FH: What is the durability of this lumber compared to wood?

HW: HempWood is 20 percent stronger than American white oak. We are comparing the Janka Hardness ratings, which measure the resistance of a sample of wood to denting and wear.

FH: Can the products be painted or stained?

HW: Yes, you can paint and stain HempWood. But we often discourage painting it because HempWood has such a unique grain pattern.

FH: Do your flooring products need finish after installation? Can they be sanded and refinished after years of use?

HW: We have Site-Finished hemp flooring, and, yes, a finish will need to be applied. As for our Natural option, this is prefinished and ready for installation.

Yes, HempWood Flooring can be sanded and refinished up to four times. While it can be refinished, it is most often the case that the flooring needs to be screened and recoated. Because of the flooring’s hardness, you’re more likely to damage only the coating.

FH: Do you give buyers information and advice on the material’s unique character?

HW: Yes, we share with our customers how the wood reacts. The lumber is very dense and does need to be predrilled.

As for cutting, we use diamond tooling to crosscut the material to prevent it from fraying when cut. The hemp is just that tough, so sharp tools are required. The material sands well. A lot of woodworkers will opt for an air sander because HempWood sands beautifully.

FH: What are your customers building with the hemp lumber? What other companies market hemp building products?

HW: Customers are making everything, including cabinetry, furniture, shelving, home goods and wood turnings. We are the only manufacturer of HempWood, and we ship internationally. We possess both the patents and trademarks for HempWood. We are currently looking at franchising in other locations.

As for others making wood substitutes from hemp, I believe a company called CannaGrove is attempting to make a hemp MDF-like product.

Our Test

We received a sample pack of HempWood lumber and flooring (which the company sells for $30 to anyone interested).

The lumber sample responded differently than most woods to cutting and drilling. It split quickly when we screwed directly into it. And when we made an angled crosscut with a circular saw, the lumber frayed at the end. Woodworkers just need to predrill and use sharp saw blades. The wood responded well to sanding.

If you’re interested in creating a patio from scratch or replacing your existing one, there are lots of choices to consider. I tapped my experience sourcing and setting a flagstone patio, as well as the expert insight of Paul Knapp, founder and Landscape Designer at Landscape Architectural, to assemble this list of popular options.

Poured Concrete Patio Flooring

If you’re looking for a basic, no-frills option on a budget, consider a poured concrete patio. According to Knapp, “concrete is relatively cheap, and the labor to install is reasonable, too.” Installation will run about $10 to $15 per square foot.

I personally find the flat surface convenient for rolling grills around and keeping patio furniture level. However, some might find it less visually appealing than other more creative options. It’s possible to install yourself, but unless you’re comfortable with building concrete forms, leave this to professionals.

Longevity also can be an issue. “It’s not a matter of if it will crack, but when it will crack,” Knapp says. “It’s fairly durable, but over time, with weather conditions and seasonal changes, concrete can crack.”

Pros:

• Cheaper than most options;
• Flat surface ideal for rolling grills and furniture;
• Easy to maintain.

Cons:

• Not as visually appealing as other options;
• Will crack eventually;
• Not ideal for most DIYers to install.

Stamped Concrete Patio Flooring

Stamped concrete patio flooring is poured flooring with a pattern “stamped” onto the wet concrete with a rubber form. It’s a relatively simple way to replicate the outline of pavers, bricks, stone or other geometrical patterns without sourcing, purchasing and placing separate components.

If you can pour concrete, you can stamp your own concrete flooring. But according to Knapp, “The installer must be careful to set the form on the desired area of concrete and then be able to lift it off without messing up the imprints.” Just like poured concrete flooring, stamped versions are also susceptible to cracking over time.

Pros:

• More visually attractive than poured concrete;
• Relatively low price;
• Wide variety of patterns to choose from.

Cons:

• Installation requires experience;
• Will crack over time.

Paver Patio Flooring

Paving stones, or simply pavers, can be made of concrete or clay. Traditionally 4- x 8-in. and 2.25 inches thick, they’re available in lots of colors and can be finished with a sealer to extend their lifespan.

Costs can vary. Clay tends to be more expensive than concrete but won’t fade in the sun, so it could be worth the extra investment. Proper installation with a solid base is especially important. Otherwise, you’ll end up with a lumpy, loose and uneven patio.

If you decide to install yourself, Knapp recommends a crushed gravel or recycled concrete base. To make it, first compact your soil with a hand or machine tamper. Then install two inches of gravel and compact again. Knapp says you should shoot for six inches of gravel base for a residential patio.

Pros:

• Available in lots of shapes and colors;
• Sealant extends their lifespan;
• Clay pavers will never fade in the sun.

Cons:

• Complex installation not ideal for first-timers

Natural Stone Patio Flooring

Natural stone — also called flagstone patio flooring — comes in irregular shapes and sizes, terrific for those hoping to avoid the manufactured look of concrete and pavers. Like clay pavers, natural stone won’t fade in the sunlight.

The large size of natural stone pieces, the labor-intensive quarrying process and relative scarcity of the material — it can only be sourced from certain areas of the country — make it one of the more expensive options.

Pros:

• Will never fade in sunlight;
• Attractive, natural look.

Cons:

• Expensive;
• Challenging to install correctly.

Decorative Chip Gravel Patio Flooring

Unlike solid flooring options, gravel patios feature loose stones contained within a border of plastic or metal edging. Although this option requires compacting the ground and applying a gravel base first, then topping it with the decorative gravel of your choice, installation is less intensive than pavers or natural stone.

If you do decide to install yourself, Knapp recommends no more than one inch of decorative gravel. Otherwise, he says, you can end up with a patio that’s too loose and uncomfortable to walk on. Gravel patios also can become messy, especially if you have kids or rambunctious pets.

Pros:

• Relatively easy DIY installation;
• Affordable.

Cons:

• Can be messy;
• Not ideal for rolling wheeled grills or furniture.

Ralph Severson, owner of Flooring Masters, says hickory’s density makes it stand up so well against wear, tear and general abuse. “Oak is always the first choice for flooring, but hickory is a more unique option,” he says. “Many believe that oak is more aesthetically pleasing, but hickory is gorgeous as well.”

Hickory Hardwood Flooring Pros

• Durable;
• Resistant to mold, termites and warping;
• Unique, irregular pattern and grain.

Hickory Hardwood Flooring Cons

• Dense fibers can be difficult to cut and install;
• More expensive than oak;
• The busy grain pattern is not ideal for narrow boards.

Hickory Hardwood Flooring Design Considerations

Grade

The grades of hickory — first, second and third — denote the level of defects, imperfections and color variances. Those who want a clean, blemish-free look should consider first-grade hickory. For something more rustic and irregular, go with a third-grade option.

Cost decreases as you go from first to third. Grade three, in particular, would look exceptional in a cabin or other rustic structure. Keep in mind that these grade titles can vary from one supplier to another, although the descriptions will be the same.

Dimensions

The unique “busy” grain pattern of hickory wood — think lots of swirls, swoops and knots — makes it better suited for wider planks, so it may be difficult to find hickory in narrow widths. If you want the traditional look of narrow plank flooring, you might not find it in hickory.

Color

The color palette can range from light beige to brown to red. These contrasting colors make it a unique, eye-catching choice for those who want to differentiate their floors from traditional pine or oak.

However, all that variation is off-putting to others who prefer a traditional look. Keep in mind scuffs and marks will be more visible on lighter colored boards, so those might not be great for high traffic areas. Just like other wood flooring options, unfinished hickory boards can be stained to alter the color.

Hickory Hardwood Flooring Installation

The hardness that makes hickory so durable and strong also makes it more of a challenge to install. Severson notes that cutting hickory during installation is difficult, so for most homeowners it’s best to hire an experienced professional hardwood floor.

If you do decide to tackle it yourself, make sure your chop saw has a good-quality carbide blade. And be aware that the hardness of the wood makes it more likely to split and break when nailing.

Hickory Hardwood Flooring Costs

Although hickory is abundant in North America, it’s not most commonly chosen for hardwood flooring, so supply is lower than for oak or maple. This relative scarcity makes hickory more expensive.

Combined with the challenging installation, it could result in a high price tag overall. If you’re on a tight budget and are set on choosing hickory, you may have to settle for a lower grade.

“The answer is all of it,” says Neil Stevenson, a Charleston, South Carolina-based architect and consultant for the celebrity home renovation series Rucker’s Reno. “Every penny you have is what it’s going to cost.”

Seriously, though: If you’re smart about it, renovating an old house won’t bankrupt you, although it will undoubtedly cost more than sprucing up a newer house.

In Stevenson’s experience, historic renovations run about the same as building a new higher-end house. Broadly speaking, that’s around $475 per square foot. But if you’re planning to look deeply into historic restoration, the sky’s the limit.

“It’s a moving target depending on how crazy you want to get,” says Stevenson. “How much of the historical fabric do you want to preserve? Do you want to just make it useful for now, or scrape off 20 layers of paint to find the original color and custom mix mortar that matches exactly?”

No matter the scope of your project, it will cost more than you think. From moldings to fire damage, animals and other surprises behind the walls, our experts all agree you should add a hefty contingency to your project budget.

Here are some other line items to take into consideration when restoring older and historic homes.

Specialty Permits and Historic Zoning

If the home is in an historic district, plan on extra permitting fees, plus an architect to help navigate regulations and create a restoration plan. You’ll also need to increase your budget for materials.

“If you have a slate roof, the city is going to require that you put a slate roof back,” says architectural historian Kristopher King of Carriage Properties in Charleston, S.C., a consultant on Rucker’s Reno.

“I can put an asphalt shingle roof on a house for $15,000, but that slate roof is probably going to cost me $150,000, so it’s a massive difference. But an asphalt shingle roof will last you 15 years and a slate one 150, so typically when you resell, this market appreciates that kind of work.”

Modern Building Codes, Infrastructure and Systems

Any pre-1960s home will likely have wiring, plumbing, framing and windows that aren’t up to modern safety or comfort standards, says Bryan Slowick, president of BDS Design Build Remodel in Libertyville, Ill.

Once you start digging into those, you may be required to bring the whole system up to today’s codes. Also, some really old houses lacked kitchens, bathrooms, HVAC systems or closets. If you have to add or update them, you’ll need to open and repair plaster walls for access to pipes and wires. That’s expensive.

“I know it sounds like a lot of fun, and it is,” Stevenson says facetiously.

HVAC

According to our experts, HVAC is often the biggest challenge and cost in an old house. It’s likely you’ll need to turn a matrix of old radiators and fireplaces into a ducted system more in line with today’s comfort expectations. That can be problematic.

“Some old homes don’t necessarily have a wide enough wall cavity to run traditional HVAC,” says Slowick. If that’s the case, you might have to go with a high-velocity air-conditioning system, which has smaller ducts and can cost twice as much as a traditional unit.

HVAC was a particularly sticky problem on Rucker’s Reno.  “It was truly a nightmare,” Stevenson says. “It was almost impossible what we had to do.

“The floor joists were only 11 inches deep and 3-1/2-inches wide, and there are just massive chunks of lumber, so we really had to put our thinking caps on to figure out how to run ductwork. In a large, complex house like that, it could run upwards of a half million dollars.”

Specialty Materials

Procuring original materials or fabricating new ones to match can also be costly. Old moldings, door casing and other trims often have different profiles than modern materials, and thus need to be custom milled.

“Traditional FJP (finger-jointed pine) trim might cost $2 a linear foot versus $1.50 for a newer house,” says Slowick. “For one doorway, that doesn’t add up. But if you’re talking about a whole house, you’re talking thousands of dollars.”

Other tricky materials can range from floor paint to clay-fired hearth tiles and stained-glass window repairs. On one project, Stevenson needed to replace some rotting iron gates, and the lowest price he could find was $55,000.

Windows and Doors

Door and window sizes often don’t align with modern standards. Plus, they often have outdated energy specs and poor weather resistance.

“You can rebuild windows with that historical, cool, wavy glass,” says Stevenson. “But it’s just that much more work. And you’ll need to order them from Eastern Europe, because we don’t make them here anymore.”

The good news is, if installed correctly, old-style windows can be quite energy efficient. The bad news is, while a modern vinyl window costs a few hundred dollars, the same window done historic style could be well over $1,000.

There can also be issues with non-standard size doors, or finding matching hardware. “It’s a never-ending discovery of how unique your building is when you have to pay for all of the uniqueness,” says Stevenson.

Specialty Contractors and Craftspeople

Inevitably, you’ll run into something that’s better outsourced to a skilled craftsperson. Maybe it’ll be plaster or milling or masonry. Finding skilled craftspeople experienced in older technologies can be a challenge. And, of course, those skilled people demand a higher hourly wage.

Plaster

Even if your plaster comes intact, you’ll need to cut into and repair it if you’re running new electrical, plumbing or HVAC. And plaster is more expensive than drywall.

“We’ve seen houses where the plaster was beyond salvage, but where the contractor actually put in [drywall] and then ran a skim coat of plaster mud over the top,” King says. “You get that great thud, durability and texture.”

Flooring

If you’re trying to match traditional pine wood floors, King says they’ll be more expensive to buy and install. That’s because their tongue-and-groove systems require them to be blind nailed. “Then you’ve got to sand it and finish it, instead of just buying a modern flooring system that’s already finished looking and can be laid down in a day,” he says.

Mantels

Any sort of mantel or intricate molding or cornice will likely need to be picked out and cleaned with dental picks, King says.

“What people don’t recognize is when you have a 200-year-old house, there could be anywhere from 15 to 50 coats of paint,” King says. “Removing all of that to restore the detail back is incredibly labor-intensive. There are a lot of things that require craft, and craft is what is expensive today.”

On Rucker’s Reno, Stevenson discovered he couldn’t strip the paint off the mantel, so he tracked down the plant in Scotland which originally manufactured it. Not only was the plant still open, it still had the original mold, so he could order a replica.

Historic Architects and Inspectors

All our experts emphasized that even if you plan on DIYing most of the work, it’s well worth the money to pay for consultation from an architect or contractor with historic home experience before purchasing the house. “Sometimes having someone who knows what they’re looking at on site for an hour is going to save you thousands in the long run,” says King.

A typical walkthrough runs between $200 and $500. If consultants will be more heavily involved from start to finish, the relationship could stay an hourly rate or switch to a percentage of the project budget.

Insurance

Depending on where you live, insurance hurdles for historic homes can manifest in different forms.

“In Charleston, we’re on the coast and we’re in a hurricane zone,” says King. “You can’t just go put impact-rated windows in a historic house in Charleston, so you need a local insurance carrier who can help with this.”

Another consideration is finding a policy that will cover historic replacement value. That of course will be more expensive because it covers repairs to plaster walls, wooden floors and other specialty materials. “You don’t have to do it, but it’s certainly advisable to,” says King.

“All of these things can certainly add up when it comes to restoring a historic home, but it doesn’t mean it has to take forever and cost a fortune. It’s really about making informed decisions.”

How to Repair Scratched Wood: First, Understand What Finish is On Your Floor

It’s important to start by knowing what kind of finish is on your floor. Is your finish oil or water based? Do you have a wax coating? Is the wood varnished or stained? Is there an aluminum oxide coating? Know what the surface is made of so you know how to start your wood floor scratch repair. If you didn’t install the floor and aren’t sure what type of finish it has, you can check here for more details on identifying it.

Hardwood Flooring

Hardwood flooring gives a room a crisp, classic elegance, while the soft look of natural wood warms any room. It’s available pre-finished or unfinished, and in many species.

Hardwood Flooring Pros

• Long lifespan, when properly maintained;
• Durability depends on species of wood (oak is more durable, pine is less so);
• Readily available;
• Easy to clean;
• Good for DIY;
• Unfinished flooring can be stained to any shade.

Hardwood Flooring Cons

• Needs to be refinished every five to eight years depending on use;
• Can be prone to echoes or noise amplification;
• Can be slick when wet and chilly in cold temperatures.

Hardwood Flooring Cost

$5 to $12 per square foot. Price factors include board width, squares vs. planks and wood species.

Some attics provide a great spot for an additional living room, guest bedroom or activity area. One of the main considerations when finishing your attic is flooring. Choosing the right attic flooring — that is, if your attic can be finished at all — depends on structural elements and layout. Learn about attic flooring options, and which attic finishing approach makes sense for you.

How To Know if You Can Add Attic Flooring

Before installing flooring in your attic, it’s vital to examine the space with a critical eye. Some attics can safely handle flooring right away without major modifications to the space or structure. Others require a major overhaul before flooring can go down. And some attics simply aren’t meant to be finished.

Here are some things to look for when determining if your attic is suitable for flooring:

• Floor joists: These are the horizontal framing members of what will become your finished attic floor. Joists create the base over which you’ll install the floor. Depending on the age and intended use of the space, these might be 2×6 (1-1/2-in. x 5-1/2-in.), 2×8 (1-1/2-in. x 7-1/2-in.), 2×10 (1-1/2-in. by 9-1/2-in.) or 2×12 (1-1/2-in. by 11-1/2-in.). The wider and more closely spaced your joists, the stronger your attic floor, and the better suited it will be to supporting furniture and heavy objects. If your joists are only 2×6 or 2x8s, you probably shouldn’t proceed until a professional builder has reinforced the floor frame.
• Framing: Many modern roofs are framed with factory-assembled “webs” of wood called trusses. These are the exact shape and angle of your roof, and make the job of framing it a whole lot faster and easier for builders. Trouble is, trusses drastically reduce the amount of usable attic space due to their floor-to-ceiling webbing. If your attic is built with trusses, there’s probably not much point in trying to use it for anything more than a storage space. Roofs framed with rafters or structural insulated panels (SIPs) are different. Both create attics that are wide open and ready for finishing.
• Insulation: Before installing any flooring in your attic, make sure the attic insulation is adequate. Many attics in older homes were built strictly for storage and have no roof insulation. Instead, they rely on insulation between the attic floor joists to keep the rooms below warm in winter and cool in summer. If this is your situation, you’ll need to install batts, spray foam or blown in cellulose insulation between the rafters forming your roof frame before worrying about flooring. If your home is built of SIPs there’s no issue, because SIPs contain built-in foam insulation.

How To Determine How Much Weight Attic Flooring Can Support

Knowing the weight capacity of the attic’s floor structure is essential for anyone thinking of converting an attic to living space. Floor loading capacity is a product of room size and joist span, width and spacing. In North America, it’s usually expressed in pounds per square foot (PSF).

Building code requirements vary from place to place, but most jurisdictions insist on common room floors handling at least 40 PSF, and sleeping rooms handling 30. Use this calculator to learn the maximum span of your attic joists, plugging in the load requirements as outlined in your local building code. Use this information along with the size of your attic space to determine if your floor frame is up to code for a finished room.

What Kind of Attic Flooring Works Best in Different Situations?

If your attic is completely unfinished, it might not even have plywood subfloor installed on top of the floor joists. If not, installing this subfloor is your first job. Go with sheets of plywood at least 5/8-in. thick and preferably 3/4-in. for maximum strength. Then it’s time to choose your finished flooring material, which will be fastened on top of the subfloor. There are three options.

Tongue-and-groove wood

Most building supply stores carry 3/4-in. tongue-and-groove softwood lumber of various lengths and widths. This is a simple, fairly economical flooring approach, and can look nice after sanding and finishing.

Tongue-and-groove refers to routed profiles along the boards’ edges, allowing them to interlock quickly and easily with their neighbors. The only real downside is that seasonal temperature changes can cause the boards to expand and contract, creating small gaps between them over time. This option also means lots of work and time invested in establishing and maintaining a durable finish.

Engineered hardwood

One solution to the expansion and contraction problem is engineered hardwood. Made of thin strips of real pre-finished hardwood factory bonded to tongue-and-groove plywood (which doesn’t expand and contract significantly), engineered flooring is a great way to enjoy the beauty of hardwood with little trouble.

Laminate

The trouble with real wood flooring is that no matter how many coats of finish you apply, it’ll eventually wear out and start looking ugly. If you don’t have the time, patience or skill to refinish your attic flooring regularly, consider a laminate floor. Composed of tough plastic made to look like wood, most laminates will far outlast real wood. They’re extremely scratch and wear resistant, easy to install and resemble real wood.

Other flooring options

Rigid sheet flooring is another option that works well, is easy to install and resists wear. Tiles are almost never a good choice for attics because attic floors are rarely strong and rigid enough to prevent small amounts of flexing, which causes tiles and grout to crack. The quickest of all attic flooring options is simply carpeting right over the bare subfloor.

Update Old Light Fixture

Bring your lighting up-to-date with a new light fixture. Whether you update your pendant light in the dining room or your lamps in the living room, a new light fixture is an inexpensive way to help you see your space in a whole new light.

Consider these 14 modern pendant lighting trends that will light up your life.

Easy Chair Fix

This easy home fix is one you’ll definitely want to keep handy! Trying to keep a rickety old chair together without going through the trouble of taking it apart and re-gluing it?

The simple home fix is to just drill pilot holes and drive trim-head screws through the bottom of the rungs and into the legs.

Tiling Directly on Concrete

As a substrate for tile installation, concrete presents more issues than you might think. The Tile Council of North America (TCNA) warns against reflective cracking that happens when concrete cracks through shrinkage related to curing, or because of shifting sub layers below it. These cracks can create stress that cracks the tile layer too.

Laurent “Frenchy” Billaud, whose tile installation company operates in the greater Los Angeles area, says he often sees floors where the installer skips putting down a crack isolation membrane. As its name implies, the membrane isolates the concrete (or plywood) from the tile layer, allowing it to float unaffected by whatever movement and stresses happen below. Per the TCNA, when properly installed underneath an entire floor, manufacturers “will often warrant the entire installation, including the cost of replacing and installing new tile.”

Beware: A crack isolation membrane does not take the place of expansion joints in a tile flooring installation. It works in tandem with them.

Insufficient Subfloors Below Natural Stone

Billaud also notes a preparation mistake common to natural stone installations. “If you have a subfloor composed of regular 3/4-in. plywood and you install your stone directly on that, chances are that it will crack,” he says. “You need a second layer of plywood, glued and screwed.”

Furthermore, the upper layer should be offset so the joints in the two layers do not match up. The screws for the top layer should only anchor into the layer below, not penetrate the joists.

Cheating Curing Time

Tile sealants, caulk and grout all require curing time, according to industry training and manufacturer instructions. Billaud says some contractors are too anxious to move on with the project.

“In tile, there’s a lot of curing time,” he says. “And you’ve got to be a stickler for the rules. If a product calls for 24 hours, then wait a full 24 hours. That doesn’t mean finishing application at 5 p.m., then coming back the next morning and continuing the installation. That’s not 24 hours.”

Billaud even advises monitoring climate conditions at your jobsite and increasing cure time in cooler, wetter environments.

Starting a Wood Floor in the Wrong Place

Joe Sheehan, owner of Minnesota Woodwork in the Twin Cities, says he often sees this wood floor installation mistake. “Many people look for the longest, straightest wall,” he says. “I always start at the focal point of the floor.” That could be near a door jamb, a stair nosing or a floor register.

Starting somewhere easy and finishing at the hard spot can leave you in a difficult place, with little flexibility and few options. Sheehan says by starting in these highly visible or difficult locations, you can call the shots on row positioning and where joints fall. That results in a much more attractive floor.

Cutting Around the Door Jamb

As a transition between rooms, doors create specific challenges in a wood-flooring installation. Floor boards need to be cut to fit properly through the doorway, but too many installers fail to undercut the jamb, says Sheehan. Rather than trimming the end of the door jamb, casing and trim, they cut around it. That often leaves visible gaps that need to be covered with caulk.

“That doesn’t look good,” he says. “It’s not professional.”

All that cutting actually costs installers more time and effort. Using a scrap board to mark the top of the flooring on the jamb sets the stage for a simple straight cut, according to Sheehan. Then, one easy cut with a multi tool (Sheehan uses one by Fein) allows you to slide the floor board underneath it and your work is done.

Failing to Glue

In a finished wood floor, the outermost rows near the walls need to remain secure so that the entire floor remains tightly fitted.

“A lot of people just don’t use glue,” says Sheehan. “I always glue at least three rows, maybe four — anything that I cannot get with my stapler or my cleat nailer. When the floor is sanded there is a lot of chatter and the floor jumps a lot. There’s a lot of movement in those last couple of rows, so I always glue all my start rows and all my finishing rows.”

Failing to Prepare Your Laminate Layout

For any type of plant or board flooring, don’t rush careful measuring and planning. “In older homes, many people pick the longest wall and start laying flooring,” Sheehan says, “but that wall could be out of alignment with the rest of the house.”

He recommends taking multiple measurements and checking each room before starting.

“Usually the sub floors are pretty straight,” he says. “They snap a line when they install it, so the seams are pretty straight with all the walls. Then you can find the longest area of the house that you can snap a line through by measuring off the plywood seam and check the walls off that line.” The whole process takes him just 15 or 20 minutes and sets up the floor for the best presentation throughout the house.

Trimming Out Floating Floors With Baseboard Only

All floating floors require a gap at the walls to account for expansion and contraction of the floor. Sheehan says the recommended gap often measures 1/4-in. to 3/8-in. Common baseboard trim widths also measure 1/4-in. to 3/8-in. and therefore may not adequately cover the flooring edge as the seasons change.

Many homeowners, however, demand the installer not use any extra trim in addition to the baseboard. “They are asking you to keep that gap tighter because they don’t want to put an extra shoe or piece of trim along the baseboard,” he says. Unfortunately, that improper gap size often voids the warranty on the floor. “I’ve actually been denying jobs when they say they only want baseboards there,” he says.

Improper Tack Strip Installation for Carpet

Kevin Ryan, carpet installer for Erskine Floors in the Twin Cities, Minn. area, sees far too much inconsistency in tack strip placement and pad installation at the edges of a room. “Tack strips need to be 3/8-in. or less from all the walls and around door jambs,” he says. “A lot of times I see them at 3/4-in. or even a full inch away. And the pad has to be perfectly fitted, right up to the strip.”

Improper installation of the strip and pad transition can result in the tacks protruding through the carpet (ouch!) or a greater chance of the carpet edge coming loose. Either way, Ryan says, the installer will likely be called back to address the problem.

Failing to Start ‘On Pattern’

Patterned carpets pose additional challenges for carpet installers. In addition to fitting the flooring to the room, the pattern needs to appear oriented properly within the room. Ryan says that begins by trimming a roll on-pattern.

Each pattern in carpet has rows running both ways that you can identify. Once located, he uses a tool such as a screwdriver to part the pile, exposing the top surface of the backing in a straight line. “You trim it on-pattern there and it will follow the pattern straight all the way down,” he says.

Ryan then uses this edge to lay out the room and cut the rest of the perimeter. “It’s really simple to do, and then when it’s all trimmed in, I always go over it and fine tune it,” he says.

According to the latest data from the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, the construction industry added 16,000 new jobs in August 2020. Residential construction employment added 25,000 new jobs, counteracting a 16,000 job decline in nonresidential specialty trade contractors.

“Construction is becoming a tale of two sectors, as homebuilding and limited nonresidential niches thrive but most other private, as well as public, construction shrinks,” said Ken Simonson, chief economist for the Associated General Contractors of America (AGC).

“These employment numbers are in line with our survey, which found a plurality of construction firms expect it will take more than six months before their volume of business matches year-ago levels.”

Historically high levels of demand for housing this past summer boosted the home building industry and created a bright spot in the construction industry overall. It’s been a busy season for residential construction. That the industry continues to add jobs even in late summer is a positive sign that these levels of activity are likely to continue.

“[This] report indicates that America’s nascent economic recovery remains fully in place,” said Anirban Basu, chief economist for the Associated Builders and Contractors (ABC). “The big news was that the nation’s rate of unemployment declined to 8.4 percent, even as more people reentered the job market, which was due in part to a cessation of a sizable federal supplement to state unemployment insurance benefits.”

Construction employment in August remained 425,000 jobs lower than its most recent peak last February. The overall industry unemployment rate sat at 7.6 percent, more than double what it was at the same time last year.

“There is a lot that Washington officials can do to help boost demand for construction projects and get more people back to work rebuilding the economy,” said Stephen E. Sandherr, chief executive officer of the AGC. “The challenge is that the coronavirus has put many contractors in the position of looking for work and workers at the same time.”

“Flooring matters tremendously when selling a home,” Stephan Burke, director of luxury real estate at Cassis Burke Collection with Brown Harris Stevens, told realtor.com. “It immediately influences if the buyer will like the house as they walk into every room and hallway, kitchen, and even exterior patio.”

So, can the right flooring actually increase your home’s value? The answer is, yes.

Wood Flooring

When it comes to increasing your home value with new flooring, wood is your best option. “According to real estate experts, the average ROI (rate on investment) for installing hardwood floors is about 70 percent to 80 percent, and wood floors can boost the sales price of your home as much as 2.5 percent” notes realtor.com.

Wood floors are durable and luxurious, and you have lots of choices—maple, oak, hickory, walnut, pine—so you’re sure to find wood flooring that looks great in your home.

Tile Flooring

If wood is king, tile is queen and in some cases, increases your home value just as much as wood flooring.

Tile works well in bathrooms and kitchens, and also in homes located in tropical climates where wood can warp and grow mold. Alex Biyevetskiy, a home remodeling expert with Remodeling Image, told realtor.com that you can increase your ROI with tile flooring if you install it yourself. “If you can do it and get results that look professional, the return on investment will exceed 100 percent,” Biyevetskiy says.

If tile is your style, Remodeling magazine notes that current trends include plenty of “encaustic, geometric and arabesque decorative tiles.”

The Bottom Line on Flooring

When it comes to increasing your home value with new flooring, the bottom line is to keep it consistent, according to Home Light, a real estate referral company. Real estate agents told Home Light that buyers may walk away when they see a home with disparate flooring.

Ryan Cave, a real estate agent in Texas says the worst thing you can do when it comes to flooring is to have two different types of flooring that meet in a very visible area. “Two different hardwoods touching?” says Cave, “That’s the worst,” he told Home Light.

Carefully consider your options before making any flooring changes in an attempt to increase your home value before selling. If you make the wrong choice, it could have the opposite effect on your selling price.

Water-based and oil-based polyurethane each offer good protection; the biggest difference is in appearance. Polyurethane is actually the most durable hardwood floor finish.

There’s debate over which finish is harder, but some experts maintain that hardness isn’t necessarily a good attribute of a floor finish. You want a finish that will flex along with the floor. And a super-hard finish shows scratches more readily. You’ll prolong the protective life of any finish by eliminating its No. 1 enemies: dirt and grit. Sweep or vacuum the floor often and put throw rugs in high-traffic areas.

Plus, check out these tips and techniques for applying polyurethane that produce virtually flawless results. They include where wipe-on poly is better than a roller, and the best way to control dust.

Water-Based Polyurethane

Pros

• Provides a clear finish with low odor.
• If you love the natural look of maple, apply a water-based (waterborne) polyurethane.
  • Pro tip: They appear milky in the can, but go on clear and remain clear. They’ll slightly accent the character of your wood without giving it the amber tint of an oil-based poly. (However, some woods, like the oak shown, cry out for that amber tint.)
• Water-based finishes dry fast — most within two hours — so you can apply several coats in a day.
  • Pro tip: If you start early enough, you can apply the recommended four coats and sleep in the room that night.
• Cleans up with water too.

Cons

• Water-based polys cost twice as much as oil-based polys.
• They won’t give wood the rich glow that oil-based polys impart; some even consider them cold looking.
• Some waterborne polys go on so clear that you’ll have to mark each swath of finish as you go.
• Most water-based polys contain only 30 to 35 percent solids, compared with the 45 to 50 percent solids in oil-based products.
  • Pro tip: Since these solids create the protective finish, you need to apply four coats, as opposed to two or three.
• When applying polyurethane to floors, you may need to apply additional coats every two years or so.

Oil-Based Polyurethane

Pros

• Leaves an amber glow and requires fewer coats than water-based polyurethane.
• Less expensive than water-based polys.
• Contain 45 to 50 percent solids, which creates a more protective finish.
• Require less maintenance over time.

Cons

• The five-hour wait between coats and 12-hour wait after the last coat will put a bedroom out of commission for a few days.
• You’ll have to put up with a strong odor.

Can you imagine Michelangelo’s David being made of anything other than marble? The beauty of its natural veins combined with its durability have made marble a desirable material for millenniums.

But just because it’s timeless doesn’t mean it’s maintenance-free. Here’s what to know before choosing marble flooring and how best to care for your marble floors.

Marble Flooring Basics

Marble floors require upkeep and care to maintain their beauty.

Marble isn’t the hardest of surfaces — it’s rated at a three to five on the Mohs scale of hardness, depending on its composition — so everyday wear and tear from things like hard-soled shoes or dirt show up, especially in high-traffic areas.

And since marble is formed from limestone under heat and pressure over time, it is porous and can be stained or etched. Acidic liquids like citrus juices will quickly leave their mark in marble if not immediately removed, and grease and lotions can stain it.

The Best Way to Take Care of Marble Floors

Use only mild cleaning products on marble flooring. Avoid acids, along with vinegar or abrasive creams or powders. A damp microfiber mop with only water will be your safest, simplest way to clean. We love this O-Cedar spray mop that makes cleaning floors a breeze.

If you have stains from oily liquids like grease and lotions, use a poultice, found at any hardware store or made at home. Spread it on the stain, then place plastic wrap on top of it, taping the edges down with painter’s tape. Wipe it up the following day. More severe stains will need to be professionally removed, as will etches in the surface.

Make sure doormats are in place to avoid scratches and pits from dirt and grit.

And since marble is porous, marble floor tiles need to be sealed once or twice a year with a marble sealer, available at tile stores and home centers.

Is Marble Flooring Expensive?

Compared with other types of floors, yes. While labor and material costs can vary, expect to pay around $5 per sq. ft. for 12 in. x 24 in. marble tile. If it’s to be set in a simple square room, most experienced DIYers can handle the installation. But if a higher level of detail is required, a professional tile setter will be worth the cost of $40 to $65 an hour, since marble is not very forgiving to work with.

What is Saxony Carpet?

Saxony carpet features upright, cut-pile fibers that are evenly cut for a uniform look. Saxony carpet pile usually measures less than 1/2 in. and is made from nylon, wool, polyester or triexta. This is a traditional and common style you’ve undoubtedly seen in many homes.

Types of Saxony Carpets

• Straight Saxony carpet: Straight is the most common type. It has straight fibers that run in the same direction, as well as uniform color. Straight Saxony carpet has a traditional look and a soft, luxurious feel.

• Textured Saxony carpet: Also called trackless Saxony carpet, this is a newer type featuring twisted fibers. It does not show foot and vacuum marks as easily as straight Saxony carpet, making it an increasingly popular choice among homeowners.

Saxony Carpet Pros

• Timeless look: You never need to worry about Saxony carpet going out of style or looking dated.

• Soft: The thick pile creates a plush feel underfoot. This is especially the case with straight Saxony carpet, which is often described as feeling “velvety.”

• Can be durable: The degree of durability will depend on the carpet fiber material you choose, the fibers’ twist number and the carpet density. Opt for a higher twist number and carpet density for maximum durability.

Saxony Carpet Cons

• Shows foot and vacuum marks: One of the biggest downsides to Saxony carpet is its tendency to show footprints and vacuum marks, especially straight Saxony carpet. There are two things you can do to avoid this: Opt for a textured Saxony carpet, or suspend the beater bar function on your vacuum.

• Frequent vacuuming: You’ll need to vacuum your Saxony carpet more frequently than other styles to revive its signature fluff and remove those pesky footprints. Learn how to make carpet last longer by cleaning it correctly.

• Can be a bit staid: Saxony carpet tends to blend into the background. If you’re looking to make a statement with your carpeted floor, you’re better off choosing a different style.

• Can be hard to gauge quality: With the wide range of Saxony carpet on the market, it can be troublesome to determine what’s best for you. Get answers by researching reliable sources online or asking a salesperson about the carpet material, twist number, carpet density and the type of carpet backing. The name Saxony carpet may have come from the fabric or yarn twist that was used. Saxony can refer to a soft wool fabric or a type of yarn that features close twists.

Olefin carpet is emerging as a popular choice in carpeting. Here’s what it is and why so many homeowners are choosing olefin carpet.

What is Olefin Carpet?

Olefin is a synthetic (manufactured) material. It’s also known as polypropylene, a type of thermoplastic used to make a wide range of household products, medical devices and more. Because it’s derived from plastic, olefin carpet is best installed in places with the potential for water damage.

Olefin Carpet Pros

• Inexpensive: Olefin carpet averages about $1.50 per square foot. That compares favorably to nylon, the most popular carpet material that averages between $3.25 and $7.50 per square foot.

• Water, mold and mildew resistant: Olefin carpet wicks away moisture, making it a great choice for basements, patios and anywhere else that could get damp.

• Does not generate static: Helpful in computer rooms and in drier climates.

• Stain resistant: Olefin carpet gets high marks for repelling stains. Most substances (but not all) simply roll off the fibers and pool at the bottom of the carpet, where they are easily spot treated. Read on to learn what olefin does not repel.

• Attractive: Olefin carpet is often made to look like more expensive wool carpet.

• Many different styles and colors: If it’s variety you’re after, olefin carpet has a lot to offer.

Olefin Carpet Cons

• Can mat easily: Olefin carpet does not hold up as well to foot traffic as other carpet materials, such as nylon. Choose a low-pile or looped, Berber carpet style to reduce matting.

• Not as durable as other carpet materials: Because it mats so easily, you won’t get as much mileage out of olefin carpet as nylon or triexta carpet. For that reason, it’s best suited for low-traffic areas.

• Absorbs oil and grease: While olefin carpet is generally stain resistant, it does not resist grease and oils. It absorbs both substances, including human oils from skin. Your best defense is to attack any carpet oil stains ASAP.

• Highly heat sensitive: It only takes a little heat to melt, burn or scorch olefin carpet. Simply dragging furniture across olefin carpet can leave lasting burn marks. Always pick up and move furniture on olefin carpet!

Silence That Squeak!

Vinyl plank flooring costs anywhere from $1.69 to $3.19 per square foot. More expensive flooring is usually thicker and sometimes more attractive, but we wondered if it’s more durable. To find out, we bought the most expensive option and the cheapest at a local home center, then did some tests.

If your vinyl flooring needs some help, you can fix small tears, burns and gouges in a vinyl floor in less than 30 minutes.

Wear Layer

Vinyl flooring has a protective wear layer. This is measured in mils (one-thousandth of an inch) and gives the flooring added durability. The higher the mil count, the greater the durability. In our case, the thin vinyl flooring we tested was four mils and the thick was six mils.

Drop Test

Vinyl floors are susceptible to damage from falling objects. For our first test, we dropped a screwdriver from roughly three ft. onto each thick and thin floor. We dropped it three times. The two floors showed similar tiny surface dings.

Abrasion Test

For this test, we used a random orbit sander with 180-grit sandpaper to simulate abrasion over a long period of time. First, we held the sander on the two types of flooring for 30 seconds each. The sander wore down the thin flooring more than the thick, leaving a large, white circular mark. The thick flooring showed light, barely visible marks and some wear at the seams. For the second test, we moved the sander back and forth over the pieces of vinyl flooring for nine minutes each. The thin vinyl wore down quickly, leaving a streak of white, while the thick hardly showed any visible damage at all.

The Results: Thick is Tougher

Thin vinyl flooring is cheaper, but in our tests it wasn’t as durable as the thick stuff. While both showed some damage from dropped items, the thick held strong against abrasion. Plus, these cheap flooring ideas are great alternatives and give hardwood flooring a run for its money!

Buying a Carpet Cleaning Machine

We’ve never spent more time at home than during the last couple of years, so it’s hardly surprising our carpets are showing signs of use and abuse. That’s where carpet cleaners come in.

Considerations when buying a carpet cleaner

Besides removing soil and gunk, carpet cleaners can help keep your carpet last longer, especially if you frequently deal with tracked-in dirt or spills.

Michael Clarke, founder of Pulled.com, recommends home carpet cleaners combining cleaning solution with powerful brush heads that work deeply into the fibers, extracting grime and ground-in dirt. “In many cases, the machines help to restore carpet’s appearance, leaving it looking refreshed and almost new,” he says.

Before purchasing one, here are some things to consider:

• Style (upright, canister or portable): “Upright cleaners are best if you plan to use a carpet cleaner regularly and most of your home is carpeted,” says Clarke. Larger sizes offer more power, but that also makes them noisier and clumsier to move than a small canister or portable machine.
• Cleaning system: Carpet cleaners rely on a cleaning solution and brushes, or steam. Carpet cleaners with specially formulated solutions mixed with water are good for spot cleaning. Machines that rely on hot water/steam are chemical-free and tend to be better at removing deep-down dirt. One downside to steam: It can take longer for the carpets to dry.
• Tank capacity: Full-size uprights tend to have larger tanks so they’ll cover more area with a single refill.
• Power source: Most are corded. Cordless (battery-operated) models are great for cleaning cars.
• Weight: A home carpet cleaner filled with water and cleaning solution can be a load. “Carrying around a full, dirty water tank can be especially problematic when lugging it up and down the stairs,” Clarke says.
• Attachments: Extra tools, such as spot-cleaning and crevice attachments, are especially helpful for stains and deep cleaning in corners.

No matter how hard you try, if you live in a cold, snowy climate, keeping your floors clean in the winter can seem like a full-time job. While salt may come in handy for keeping your sidewalk, walkways and driveway clear of snow and ice, salt can wreak havoc on your floors. Here are some simple ways for dealing with salt on wood floors.

Place Mats Inside and Out

Doormats are a necessity, both inside your doorway and just outside the door as well. A good, sturdy mat placed right outside your door works as the first line of defense for keeping salt, sand and mud out of your home. Place one right outside the door and encourage family and other guests to wipe their shoes and boots off before coming inside. A second mat, just inside your door, works as the second chance to get all of the gunk off of winter footwear. A heated outdoor mat that melts the snow and ice is a good pick.

Use a Boot Tray

A boot tray is an easy, inexpensive addition that makes a big difference in the amount of salt, dirt, slush and snow that gets tracked across your floors. Place one or more in your entryway or mudroom and place your shoes and boots on it and allow the tray to collect all that salt and slush. Have slippers, cozy socks or inside-only shoes nearby to slip on after removing outside boots and shoes.

For a DIY boot tray, try gluing river rocks or leftover wine corks to a baking sheet or wooden tray.

Vacuum and Sweep Regularly

Since salt can scratch hardwood floors, sweep or vacuum often during the winter months. When vacuuming, be sure the vacuum’s wheels don’t scratch. Also, flooring experts recommend careful use of ‘Swiffer’ type dusters because grains of salt and grit can get trapped under the head of the duster. Then, those trapped grains can scratch the surface of your floors as you dust them.

Spot Clean

If not cleaned up right away, salt can cause stains and discoloration on your floors. If you notice salt on your floor, a little vinegar and water solution and a soft cloth should be all you need to clean it up.

Cheap DIY Flooring: Laminate Flooring

Laminate is one of the least expensive choices for residential flooring, because it’s been around for so long there are many different avenues to try. When it comes to cheap flooring ideas, laminate is a good choice for people who are hard on floors, so if you have children and pets, it’s a smart selection. It’s also one of the hotter flooring options out there, make sure to check out the others. The new designs for laminate plank floors and laminate tiles have transformed into modern, on-trend designs. To make the choice easier take into account these ideas when choosing laminate flooring.

How do you clean laminate floors? Read the Instructions First

Different manufacturers may have specific instructions for how to clean their laminate wood floors. If you have access to their recommendations, be sure to read and follow them. If you’re just considering getting laminate floors, here’s your guide to DIY installation.