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Cutting List

Overall dimensions: 55-in. H x 31-in. W x 1-3/4-in. D

KEY	QTY.	PART	DIMENSION
A	2	Front frame top and bottom	3/4″ x 4″ x 31″
B	2	Front frame sides	3/4″ x 4″ x 47″
C	2	Back frame top and bottom	3/4″ x 4″ x 23″
D	2	Back frame sides	3/4″ x 4″ x 55″
E	2	Top and bottom trim	Cut to fit
F	1	Side trim	Cut to fit

Build the Front Frame

The frame consists of a front and a back, each cut from 3/4-inch medium density fiberboard (MDF). Determine the frame size needed for your light panel, then cut the front and back frame pieces. We chose a four-inch wide frame for our LED panel. You’ll have to decide what looks best in your room.

The front and back frames are the same size, but the lengths of some parts differ, so the joints of the two frames overlap. Assemble the front frame with glue and pocket screws.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/common-dryer-repairs-you-can-do-yourself/ Thu, 22 Dec 2022 18:21:38 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=501578 Here’s the first thing to know about dryer repair: You can solve some common dryer troubles yourself. There’s no need to find a technician, schedule a service call or pay hundreds dollars for dryer repair.

The dryer repair fixes we show in this article correct about 90 percent of dryer breakdowns. Most repairs take about an hour, but set aside extra time to locate replacement parts.  Aside from basic tools like a socket set and screwdrivers, you may need a continuity tester or multimeter to diagnose the problem.

Unplug Your Dryer Before Repairing It

The first step in any appliance repair is to make sure it’s getting electricity. Unplugged cords and tripped breakers are a leading cause of appliance “breakdowns.”

How to Disassemble a Dryer

Most dryer repairs require some disassembly of the outer cabinet so you can get at the parts inside and you might not even need a dryer repairman. Dryer disassembly is slightly different depending on where the lint filter is located. For gas dryers, most repairs require that you remove the top and front (not the back or sides) to access the parts.

If your dryer’s lint filter is inside the front door, disassemble it this way: First, remove the screws at each corner of the control panel. Flip the panel up and back to expose the screws in the top panel. Remove the screws, then pull the top toward you and lift it off. To open the bottom panel, release the spring catches by shoving a putty knife into the slot just above them. With the bottom panel open, you can remove the front panel by removing two screws at the top and two at the bottom.

If your filter slides into the top of the dryer, remove the screws alongside the filter slot. Using a putty knife, release the two spring catches located under the top panel at the front. Tilt the top panel up like a car hood and remove the screws that hold the front panel in place.

How to Fix a Dryer That Won’t Start

If your dryer seems absolutely dead when you turn it on, chances are the door switch is bad or the plunger is broken or bent. Door switches wear out from normal use, but repeatedly slamming the door can speed up their demise.

Start by checking the plunger located on the door for dryer troubleshooting. If it’s missing or bent, replace it. If the plunger checks out, the next step of dryer troubleshooting is to remove the top cabinet panel to gain access to the door switch. See the disassembly instructions.

Test the switch for continuity. If the switch is good, test the thermal fuse mounted on the blower housing. If you have a gas dryer with the lint filter in the door, access the thermal fuse by opening the bottom panel. If the filter slides into the top of the machine, remove the entire front panel. On an electric dryer, remove the rear service panel.

If you don’t get a continuity reading from the thermal fuse, do NOT simply replace it. A blown thermal fuse is a warning that you have other serious problems—either a malfunctioning thermostat or a clogged vent. Fix those before replacing the fuse.

What to Do if Your Dryer Is Making Noises

If your dryer is making thumping or rumbling sounds, the most likely culprit is worn out drum support rollers. Replace all of them. If the noise continues, replace the tensioner roller (see below). Since it takes longer to disassemble the machine than to actually replace the rollers and belts, we recommend replacing both of them at the same time.

Dryer Isn’t Heating

If you’re dryer isn’t drying clothes, the first thing to do is check the airflow from the dryer vent tube. It gets clogged with lint, preventing airflow and causing it to take a long time to dry clothes, if it’ll dry them at all. If that’s not it, there are a few other common fixes for a dryer that isn’t drying, everything from checking the breaker box to cleaning the lint filter.

However, there are other problems that could cause a dryer to tumble but not heat. If that’s the case, check the thermal fuse for continuity. If the thermal fuse checks out, move on to the radiant sensor, if you have a gas dryer. It monitors the igniter and powers up the gas valve coils when the igniter reaches peak temperature. A bum sensor will stop the whole show. Test it for continuity and replace it if it fails. If the sensor is good, disconnect the electrical connector to the igniter and check it for continuity. Again, replace it if it fails the continuity test.

If both the radiant sensor and the igniter pass the test, replace the gas valve coils. To replace them, remove the retaining plate, unplug the sensors and pull them off the gas valve.

If the thermal fuse on your electric dryer checks out, test the heater element for continuity. Replace the element if you don’t get continuity.

Dryer Doesn’t Rotate

It might be a broken belt. To replace the belt, remove the front cabinet panel and lift the entire drum out of the cabinet. Then, fire up your shop vacuum and suck out all the lint. Then spin the tensioner roller by hand to see if it runs smoothly and examine it for cracks. Replace the tensioner if it fails either test.

Reinstall the drum and wrap the new belt around it (ribs facing the drum). Some tensioners are mounted behind the motor, so they’re difficult to see from the front access panel. You’ll have to do this by feel. Reach your hands around the blower housing and lift the tensioner up while you route the belt around the motor pulley.

Dryer Door Won’t Stay Shut

If your dryer door won’t stay closed, chances are the latch is either bent or missing, or the strike is worn. The fix is cheap and easy. Buy the parts from any appliance parts store. Then grab pliers, a couple of small, straight-slot screwdrivers and a roll of masking tape.

Grab the bent or broken latch and yank it out. Then install the new one, pushing in firmly until the locking tabs seat. Next, protect the door’s finish with tape and remove the old strike. Jam a small screwdriver into the strike and bend the metal locking tab inward. Pry upward with a second screwdriver to pop it out (Photo 2). Snap in the new strike and you’re back in the laundry business.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/christmas-lights-not-working/ Wed, 07 Dec 2022 17:49:58 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=listicle&p=496802

Bad Bulbs

Bulbs burn out, especially with light strands you’ve had for a few years.  One bad bulb can cause part or the entire strand of lights to stop working. That’s true of incandescent and LED lights.

If it’s just half the strand that’s out, often times the bad bulb is the first one that’s dark. If the entire strand is out, you’ll have to go through and check each bulb.

The easiest and fastest way to solve the latter problem is finding the trouble spot with a light tester. If you can’t get your hands on one, you’ll have to go through the strand and check each bulb. Light testers are relatively inexpensive, and they’re worth having because of the potential time saved.

Once you’ve found the bad bulb, just replace it. Check the light strand again and you should be on your way.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/wiring-a-4-way-switch/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/wiring-a-4-way-switch/#respond Wed, 12 Oct 2022 17:12:00 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=480437 Switches are one of the simplest electrical devices. When closed, current passes through it and a light, appliance or device turns on. When you open the switch, current has nowhere to go and the light goes off.

Wiring switches can be confusing, especially with three-way and four-way switches. Three-way switches control light(s) from two locations, like the top and bottom of a stairway. When you add a four-way switch into the circuit, you can control light(s) from three locations, like the entrance to a big family room with three doors from the kitchen, the hall and the back porch.

Here we'll show you how to wire a four-way switch. Four-way switches must be installed into the circuit in between two separate three-way switches. We brought power to the first three-way switch box, which is common, but other configurations exist.

Before starting any electrical project, plan your circuitry and the best route for cables. Type NM cable (nonmettallic sheathed) is expensive, so do some homework and make sure you buy the correct size and quantity of cable. And, most importantly, make sure power is off by testing all circuits with a non-contact voltage tester.

Always consult a licensed electrician if you need help. Safety first; this project is not for a novice DIYer.

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Pull Cables to Switch Locations

Bring these cables to your switch boxes and light(s):

• 14/2 (black, white, ground) from panel to first three-way switch.
• 14/3 (black, red, white, ground) from first three-way switch to four-way switch.
• 14/3 (black, red, white, ground) from four-way switch to second three-way switch.
• 14/2 (black, white, ground) from second three-way switch to light(s).

Remember, four-way switches only work if they’re installed in the circuit in between two three-way switches. You can have as many intervening four-way switches as you want in the lighting control circuit, but they have to be bookended by two three-way switches.

Always know what you’re working on. Is it a circuit rated at 15 amperes? Is it a 20 amp circuit? The size of the circuit breaker in the electrical panel determines the rating of the branch circuit.

Here we have a branch circuit originating at a 15 amp circuit breaker, with 14 American Wire Gauge (AWG) cable and light switches rated at 15 amps. Whenever you replace existing light switches, make sure the replacement switches have the same rating.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/wiring-a-4-way-switch/feed/ 0 https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/what-to-know-about-burying-underground-electrical-cable/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/what-to-know-about-burying-underground-electrical-cable/#respond Wed, 28 Sep 2022 16:06:15 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=listicle&p=481800

Four Burial Depth Options for Underground Wiring

Decide how much digging you’re prepared to do and how deep your trench will be. This helps determine the type of wiring and the method you’ll use. Underground cable and wire can be installed at different depths, depending on the type of conduit, wire or cable.

Six inches

Install galvanized rigid metal electrical conduit with individual insulated wires six inches deep.

• The wires are pulled through the conduit once the entire conduit run is complete, from end-to-end.
• Wires must be rated for use in a wet location, such as Type THWN-2 (thermoplastic/wet location/nylon jacket).

Twelve inches

Install GFCI-protected direct-buried Type UF cable 12 inches deep.

• The GFCI protection is a trade-off that provides enhanced electrical safety while reducing the need for a deeper trench.

Eighteen inches

Install PVC conduit with individual insulated wires 18 inches deep.

• The wires are pulled through the conduit once the entire conduit run is complete, from end-to-end.
• Wires must be rated for use in a wet location, such as Type THWN-2 (thermoplastic/wet location/nylon jacket).

Twenty-four inches

Install Type UF cable for the entire run 24 inches deep.

• This is another trade-off between depth and physical protection.
• Because the direct-buried cable is alone in the bottom of the trench without conduit or GFCI protection, it must be installed deeper in the ground.

Read on for the specifics about each option.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/what-to-know-about-burying-underground-electrical-cable/feed/ 0 https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/best-circuit-breaker-finders/ https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/best-circuit-breaker-finders/#respond Fri, 16 Sep 2022 16:29:17 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=listicle&p=480720

Best Basic Circuit Breaker Finder

Klein is a big name in electrical, and the affordable Klein ET300 circuit breaker finder doesn’t disappoint. For about $30, this popular model calibrates quickly and emits a clear, loud tone and flashing light when it finds the right breaker. The ET300’s transmitter works up to 1,000 feet from the panel, too, making it a standout in this price range.

This rugged product features an auto-off feature to conserve battery life. The ET300’s two-year warranty is better than similarly-priced models from other manufacturers.

Shop Now

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/list/best-circuit-breaker-finders/feed/ 0 https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/best-headlamp/ Tue, 09 Aug 2022 21:04:15 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=475599 We all know the importance of proper lighting to any DIY project. In most cases, portable and tripod mounted work lights are fine. But in tight quarters, like under your kitchen sink or the crawlspace of your home, there’s no substitute for a quality headlamp.

I’ve owned the same $20 headlamp for the past decade, though I kept hearing about the advances and benefits of new age, high-tech headlamps. So I decided to give the Fenix HM65R headlamp a try.

What Is The Fenix HM65r Headlamp?

The Fenix HM65r headlamp features two ultra bright lights that emit up to 1,400 lumens of neutral white light. The spotlight and the flood light are independently controlled and powered by the 18650 rechargeable battery. The magnesium alloy body weighs less than aluminum, but still resists impact and is waterproof to a depth of six feet, according to the manufacturer.

The lightweight perforated reflective headband and removable top headband fit snugly and comfortably on my large head. And it weighs nearly the same as my cheap headlamp with its two clunky AA batteries.

How We Tested It

I brought the Fenix HM65R camping twice in three weeks. I tested its many light settings via basic navigation of our campsites at night. I also left it on overnight several times to assess the battery’s longevity on different settings.

You might think I’m crazy, but I also dropped it off the end of the dock into the lake while it was on! I wanted to test whether it was truly waterproof, and whether it would still function well after such a trial.

Performance Review

Brightness

This is the nicest headlamp I’ve ever used. The wider flood light helps for close tasks like reading in your sleeping bag or rifling through the cooler at night. The incredibly bright spotlight offers a longer, tighter beam.

Turn on both lights for the all-encompassing, 1,400 lumen beam. It’s ideal for when your buddy swears he just saw “something huge move right over there!” or while you’re finishing your nightcap around the fire pit.

Battery Life

The battery life is more than adequate for the jobsite or outdoor adventures.

After leaving each light on overnight, on medium or low, the Fenix HM65R still illuminated brightly in the morning. However, the battery depleted quickly when I left both lights on, or left one on high. And I only got about 3-1/2 hours out of the battery at the full 1,400 lumens, which was plenty.

As a bonus, if you misplace your USB-c charging cord or lack an electrical outlet, the Fenix HM65R can also run off two CR123a single use, primary batteries in a pinch.

Waterproof-ness

The waterproof test was pleasantly surprising if slightly stressful. I tied a rope to the Fenix HM65R, turned it on and dropped it a little more than 40 inches onto the sandy bottom of the lake. I stood in awe as the non-flickering headlamp gleamed through the darkish green water.

I waited four long minutes, expecting the light to extinguish at any moment. It never did. I pulled it back to the surface, and after a quick wipe down with a towel it was back to business as usual.

Quality Costs More

I’ve functioned perfectly well with my $20, AA battery-eating headlamp for years. But the Fenix HM65R is a far superior product, even at five times the price of my old headlamp. The Fenix HM65R’s rechargeable, long-lasting, comfortable and bright features are absolutely worth the cost and the upgrade.

Why You Should Buy This

Whether you work in a trade requiring frequent headlamp use or you’re an avid outdoor enthusiast always on the water, give the Fenix HM65R a try. It’s the headlamp I never knew I wanted or needed.

Where to Buy

The Fenix HM65R is available from fenix-store.com, or at Amazon.com.

Buy Now

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-build-an-infrared-sauna/ Wed, 03 Aug 2022 15:53:51 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=474421 Traditional saunas have been around for centuries, but infrared saunas are catching on fast. Infrared sauna therapy has many proven health benefits. It allows you to detoxify, relieving tension and stress, but can also help you burn calories and maintain clear healthy skin.

Read on to learn how to build your very own indoor infrared sauna.

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This modular design lets you construct the four walls, floor, roof, and benches of your indoor infrared sauna on-site, or build it and then transport it to a remote location. The overall dimensions are 5-ft. wide x 4-ft. deep x 6-ft. tall. Build your sauna to the size that meets your needs.  Check out Fig. 1 to see how it all goes together.

Figure 1

Overall dimensions: 95-in. H x 6-in. W x 48-in. D.

Cutting List

KEY	QTY.	PART	DIMENSIONS
A	2	Floor Base Outer Frame Front & Back	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 60″
B	2	Floor Base Outer Frame Sides	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
C	2	Floor Base Inner Frame Front & Back	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 57″
D	5	Floor Base Inner Frame Stringers	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 42″
E	1	Floor Base Plywood Floor	3/4″ x 45″ x 57″
F	4	Front, Back Walls Top & Bottom Plates	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 57″
G	4	Side Wall Top & Bottom Plate	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 48″
H	10	Front, Back, Side Walls 2×2 Stud	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 72″
I	4	Front & Side Wall 2×4 Stud	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 72
J	2	Roof Frame Front & Back	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 55-3/4″
K	5	Roof Frame Studs	1-1/2″ x 1-1/2″ x 40-3/4″
L	1	Roof Deck	3/4″ x 49-1/8″ x 61-1/8″
M	14	Roof Cedar Shiplap	1/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
N	42	Front Walls Cedar Shiplap	1/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 17-9/16″
O	21	Back Wall Cedar Shiplap	1/4″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
P	42	Side Walls Cedar Shiplap	1-1/2″ x 3-1/2″ x 45″
Q	2	Side Wall T1-11 Siding	9/16″ x 48″ x 75″
R	1	Front & Back Walls T1-11 Siding	9/16″ x 48″ x 75
S	1	Front & Back Walls Filler T1-11 Siding	9/16″ x 13-1/2″ x 75

Planning Your Infrared Sauna

• Where to build it?
  • Creating a space for an infrared sauna can be as simple as transforming an existing closet or building two walls in a corner of your basement. Maybe you’d like your sauna to be a free-standing building outdoors in your backyard. It depends on your budget and how ambitious you are.
• How big should it be?
  • That’s determined by how many people you want in the space at one time. Keep in mind the larger the room size, the more infrared panels you’ll need. Ideally, you want to keep the room small and the ceiling low. A sauna room measuring 4-ft. x 5-ft. x 6-ft. high can seat two people comfortably.
• Power source
  • Locate the closest power source and the amp capacity of the circuit. You may need to hire an electrician to wire a designated circuit.
• Calculating your space
  • Calculate your room volume to determine the number of infrared panels and the correct wattage you will need for your sauna to operate efficiently. Start by multiplying the width x depth x height to determine the cubic feet of your sauna. A 4-ft. x 5-ft. x 6-ft. high room = 120 cubic feet.
  • In general, you’ll need a minimum of 10 watts per one cubic foot. To determine the total watts needed, multiply the cubic feet x 10. So 120 cubic feet x 10 watts = 1,200 watts.
  • A standard infrared panel is 300 watts. Since our 120 cubic foot room requires 1,200 watts, we’ll go with four 300-watt panels.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/how-to-build-solar-path-lights/ Fri, 27 May 2022 18:25:44 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?post_type=project&p=465807

Chunky Lantern

I used a cedar 6×6 for the most bollard-like of my path lights. A 6×6 post seemed just the right size between a too-lean 4×4 and a too-large 8×8. The key is to find a solar lantern with its solar grids angled and off to the side. Many solar lanterns have one square solar grid flat in the center, and the top of this post would block it.

Bevel the top

To make my lantern post mimic the solar lantern light, I beveled the top of the 6×6 on my miter saw. I found the center of the post on each side and drew matching angles from that center point. Mine was a 30-degree angle, cut four times. I sanded off imperfections with an orbital sander.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/electrical-terms-explained-watts-volts-amps-ohms-diy/ Mon, 14 Mar 2022 22:24:35 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=453189

The basic components of electricity are relatively easy and logical to understand. Most electrical terms relate and get along with each other like a harmonious family. Before you tackle any electrical or home wiring project, familiarize yourself with the following terms so you can go about them smarter, safer and without apprehension.

What Is a Watt?

Watts are units of electric power. Think of wattage as electricity at work when heating or illuminating a room in your home. Take a portable electric space heater rated at 500 watts. The space heater consumes 500 watts of power when it’s turned on.

You’ll also encounter wattage when selecting light bulbs. To find an incandescent bulb that produces equivalent light to the burned-out bulb, you check the wattage. And appliance nameplates are often marked with the product’s wattage rating.

What Is a Volt?

Voltage is the pressure that forces electric current to flow though a wire.

In North America, utility systems typically deliver electricity to your home’s service panel at 240 and 120 volts. Major electrical appliances like ranges, clothes dryers, water heaters, air conditioning and space heating systems typically operate at 240 volts. Everything else runs on 120 volts.

What Is an Amp?

Amperage measures the rate that current flows through an electrical circuit. If voltage is like water pressure, amperage is like the rate of water flow. “Amps” is the common shorthand for this.

When installing, altering or replacing branch circuits in your home, in your electrical panel you’ll see fuses or circuit breakers of different sizes. General-purpose lighting and receptacle outlet circuits are rated 15 amps. In newer construction, you’ll also find dedicated 20-amp circuits for the kitchen, bathroom, laundry room, garage receptacle outlets and appliances like a dishwasher or refrigerator.

Electric clothes dryers and electric water heaters are typically rated 30 amps. Air-conditioning units, electric ranges and electric countertop cooking units or wall-mounted electric ovens may be rated at 30, 40 or 50 amps.

All the electrical components in your home must be coordinated so everything operates safely. The fuse or circuit breaker amp rating dictates the size of the wire and capacity limitations for the circuit. If you need more amps, you need bigger wire.

What Is an Ohm?

An ohm (represented by the Greek letter Omega, or Ω) measures the resistance inherent in any electrical wire. Copper wire, an excellent conductor of electricity, is found throughout many homes. Aluminum wire, another good conductor, can be found in commercial, industrial and utility installations. Both have inherent resistance to the flow of electricity.

Wires made from different metals have different resistance values, just like a small garden hose will limit the flow of water compared to a large fire hose.

When you troubleshoot electrical circuits, appliances, light switches, fuses, relays and other electrical components with a multimeter, some of the settings and readings will be expressed in Ohms. When you check the continuity for a new fuse, the multimeter will read approximately zero Ohms of resistance. That means the fuse has continuity and is good.

On the other hand, if you check a suspected defective fuse or broken light switch, you’ll probably get an Ohm reading other than zero. That may indicate a blown fuse or broken light switch. Consult the multimeter’s user manual so you can operate it safely and interpret the readings.

How Do Watts, Volts, Amps and Ohms Relate to Each Other?

Electrical math is straightforward. If you know two variables, you can find the result. If you know “x” and “y,” you can solve for “z.”

There are many laws in physics, science and nature, and Ohm’s Law is one of the most important in understanding basic electricity. And the Ohm’s Law Wheel helps make sense of it.

Here’s an example of a practical application. Say you’re installing an electric space heater in your garage. There’s a 5,000-watt (five-kilowatt or 5kW) space heater on sale at the hardware store that’s perfect for the space. What size circuit will you need for the space heater?

According to the nameplate, the space heater is rated at 5kW and must be supplied with 240 volts. So you need to solve for the amps (represented by the letter I for “intensity of current”). When you look at the Ohm’s Law Wheel, select this formula:

I = W/E (amps = watts ÷ volts);

I = 5,000 watts ÷ by 240 volts;

I = 20.8 amps;

Because the electric space heater on a continuous load could operate for three or more hours on a cold day, a safety factor of 125 percent is applied. So 20.8 amps x 1.25 = 26 amps.

All done! A standard 30-amp branch circuit will have adequate capacity to supply electricity continuously and safely for the space heater.

How To Work Safely on Your Home’s Electrical System

• Electricity is an invisible phenomenon we take for granted. Working with electricity does not need to be dangerous or difficult if you know how it works, treat it with respect and take basic safety precautions. Learn how to safely use electrical tools and testers.
• Make sure your electrical tester or multimeter is working properly before turning off the power.
• Always turn off power to circuits before working on them. Put a label, sign or circuit breaker lockout device at the electrical panel so nobody inadvertently turns the power back on. You’ll find a variety of universal circuit breaker lockout devices at home centers and online for less than $10.
• Always wear safety glasses and nonconductive leather, rubber, latex, nitrile or similar dry gloves. Wear clothing with natural fibers instead of synthetic materials.
• Wear proper sturdy footwear and never stand or kneel on a wet or damp surface when working with electricity. Use a dry, nonconductive piece of wood or nonconductive mat, especially when working outdoors.
• Use tools with rubber or plastic handles. Nonconductive tool handles provide another level of protection from electrical hazards.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/multimeter-symbol-guide/ Fri, 04 Feb 2022 20:46:08 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=446128 Back in the early days of electricity, lab workers could measure electric current in a circuit using an ammeter (galvanometer) and voltage using a voltmeter. From there, they could calculate resistance.

In 1920, British postal engineer Donald Macadie invented the AVOmeter, which measured all three quantities (A = amps, V = volts, O = ohms). Soon after, electricians working in the field got their hands on somewhat portable versions of this invention.

Today’s multimeters do the same jobs as the AVOmeter, but they’re more sophisticated and can do multiple other tests as well. Depending on the model, a multimeter can tell you whether a diode or capacitor is working, distinguish between alternating and direct current and measure wire temperature. Functions are denoted by symbols arranged around a dial.

Homeowners doing DIY electrical work don’t need the same functionality as electronics technicians, so multimeters sold in hardware stores are less complicated than those at electronics supply outlets. Even so, the symbols can be difficult to decipher. Here’s a rundown of the electrical terms and symbols you’ll find on a basic multimeter for home use and what they mean.

Multimeter Symbols You Need to Know

Voltage

Multimeters can measure direct current (DC) voltage and alternating current (AC) voltage, so they need to display more than one voltage symbol. On some older models, the designation for AC voltage is VAC. These days, it’s more common for manufacturers to place a wavy line over the V to signify AC voltage.

To signify DC voltage, the convention is to place a dotted line with a solid line above it over the V. To get voltage readings in millivolts (one-thousandth of a volt), set the dial to mV.

• “V” with a wavy line over it = AC voltage.
• “V” with one dotted and one solid over it = DC voltage.
• “mV” with one wavy line or a pair of lines, one dotted and one solid, over it = AC or DC millivolts.

Current

Like voltage, current can be AC or DC. Because the unit for current is ampères, or amps, the symbol for it is A.

• “A” with a wavy line over it = AC current.
• “A” with two lines, one dotted and one solid, over it = DC current.
• mA = Milliamps.
• µA (µ is the Greek letter mu) = Microamps (millionths of an amp).

Resistance

A multimeter measures resistance by sending a small electric current through the circuit. The symbol for the unit of resistance, the ohm, is the Greek letter omega (Ω). Meters don’t distinguish between AC and DC resistance, so there are no lines above this symbol.

On meters with range selection options, you can select the kilohm (1,000 ohms) scale and the mega ohm (one million ohms) scale, which are kΩ and MΩ, respectively.

• Ω = Ohms.
• kΩ = Kilohms.
• MΩ = Mega ohms.

Continuity

Use a multimeter to test for a break in an electrical circuit. The meter measures resistance, and there are only two outcomes. Either the circuit is broken (open), in which case the meter reads infinite resistance, or the circuit is intact (closed), in which case the meter reads 0 (or close to it).

Because there are only two possibilities, some meters beep when they detect continuity. This function is denoted on the dial settings by a series of left-facing brackets of increasing size, like a sideways version of the wireless reception symbol on a laptop.

Diode and Capacitance Tests

Electronics technicians are more likely to use the diode and capacitance tests than electricians or homeowners. But if you have a meter with these functions, it helps to know what the symbols mean.

The diode test function looks like an arrow pointing toward the center of a plus sign. When this function is selected, the meter will tell you whether a diode (a common electronics component that changes AC current into DC current) is working or not.

The capacitance function resembles a right-facing bracket to the right of a vertical line. Both are crossed by a horizontal line. Capacitors are electronic devices that store charge, and the meter can measure the charge.

The temperature function measures the temperature of the circuit wires. It’s denoted by a thermometer.

Jacks and Buttons

Two leads are supplied with every multimeter, one black and one red. Some meters have three jacks and some four. The jacks into which you plug the leads depend on what you’re testing.

• COM is the common jack, and it’s the only black one. You always plug the black lead into this jack.
• A is the jack where the red lead goes if you’re measuring high current up to 10 amps.
• mAVΩ is the jack for every other measurement, including sensitive current measurements, voltage, resistance and temperature, if the meter has only three jacks.
• mAµA is the jack for sensitive current measurements (less than one amp) if the meter has four jacks.
• VΩ is the jack for all other measurements except current.

At the top of the meter display, above the dial, you usually find two buttons, one to the left and one to the right.

• Shift. To save space, manufacturers may assign two functions to some dial positions. You access the function marked in yellow by pressing the shift button, which is usually also yellow and may or may not be marked.
• Hold. Pressing this button freezes the current reading for later reference.

Manual vs. Auto Range

An older analog multimeter with a needle needs to have more than one range setting. If the meter had only a large range, it couldn’t be used for sensitive measurements because the needle would hardly deflect. On the other hand, if the meter had only a small range, any measurement exceeding that range, no matter what it was, would deflect the needle to its maximum.

Digital multimeters with LED displays were introduced in the 1970s, and today most multimeters are digital. Some still have range settings that you select with a dial. But increasingly, the meter selects the range automatically.

Because these multimeters don’t have range settings (which can occupy up to 18 dial positions), auto-range multimeters can have more functionality than those with manual range settings.

Note: Retain the owner’s manual of your multimeter for reference. Keep the manual and the multimeter clean and dry in a quart- or gallon-size plastic zip-top freezer storage bag.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/wago-lever-nuts-wire-connectors-review/ Fri, 04 Feb 2022 18:02:55 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=446553 I don’t trust twist-on wire nuts. Sure, the wiring in my walls is replete with those inexpensive twist-on connectors. But that doesn’t mean I need to use traditional wire nuts for future electrical projects and wiring add-ons like new ceiling fans and light fixtures. The wire nuts that often come with those projects seem particularly weak.

With Wago lever nuts, I have a better option. After I discovered these connectors, I tossed my color-coded traditional wire nut connectors. I’ll use only these nuts from now on.

What Are Wago Lever Nuts?

With a Wago lever nut, you flip open an orange lever, insert a stripped wire end and close the lever. Do that for the two or three wires you’re joining and you’re done. Closing the lever connects the wires. Give each wire a little tug to be sure it’s locked in.

These lever nuts work with solid and stranded wire, and they’re available for different wire gauges and in two-, three- and five-wire configurations.

Wago lever nuts are made in Germany by a large manufacturing company that makes much larger electrical equipment, too. The company has vast experience in electrical connection solutions, and the stereotypical German quality ethic is evident in the feel of these tiny connectors.

How We Tested Them

I recently added several surface-mounted electrical outlets in my garage, and the small outlet boxes made regular wire nuts difficult to use for all the pigtailing I needed to do.

On one of many trips to the hardware store during this project, I bought a box of Wago lever nuts — three-wire model 221. I needed a method to fit pigtail connections in small boxes that came with the surface-mount kit I used. I was adding seven new boxes and connections in my garage.

Performance Review

It takes some force to open each lever, and they close with a noticeable snap; these are not just push-connect fittings. The lever closure does the work and you can feel it.

You can see the wires as you insert them into the mostly clear plastic connector. This helps you make sure you’re inserting them all the way. A small gauge on the side of the device helps you strip the right amount of insulation from each wire.

It was easy to fit three Wago 221s — one each for the neutral, hot and ground wires — in my small outlet boxes. For extra security, I wrapped each lever nut in color-coordinated electrical tape so I can see what’s what if I open any outlet box. That’s not necessary, but it was easy and felt right.

Where to Buy Wago Lever Nuts

At $18 for a 50-count box, Wago lever nuts are more expensive than regular twist-on wire nuts. And they’re worth it. That’s why they’re Family Handyman Approved. Wago lever nuts are available at hardware stores and home centers.

Shop Now

Glenn Hansen, Deputy Editor, is magazine editor and writer by trade, Glenn gained experience in home repair when he bought his first old home while working side jobs in construction to supplement his starving-writer salary. He has built several furniture projects from the pages of Family Handyman magazine and worked through countless fix-it-up projects at home to save a few bucks.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/what-to-do-in-first-year-after-moving-into-home/ Wed, 30 Jun 2021 04:00:46 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=392826 Once you’ve signed and closed on your new home, the work continues! There are so many projects you can do in the first few months as well as within the first year. Whether you’re looking at the interior of your home and considering upgrading the walls with a fresh coat of paint or if you’re looking at the exterior and considering new landscaping ideas, being a new homeowner is a labor of love.

Here’s what you can do to maintain your home all year long.

Painting Your Home 

One of the most common home renovation projects you may consider within the first year of moving into your new space is painting your room or multiple rooms. We’ve included some tips and techniques on how to paint different parts of your house — including the living room, as well as girls’ and boys’ bedrooms — and also offer some ideas on which colors might set just the tone you’re looking for.

Window Treatments 

When you move into your new home, you’ll want just the right coverage on your windows to illuminate or darken your rooms while at the same, show off your own sense of style. Whether you’re looking for curtains for your living room or smart blinds for your bedroom, here are some inspirational ideas on how you can liven up your windows in an artful way.

Insulation  

No matter what season it is, it’s important for you to make sure that you have proper insulation in your house. Learn about the different insulations types for your attic and how to prevent frozen pipes during the cold season.

Landscaping  

What your home looks like on the outside is just as important as what it looks like on the inside. Whether you have a small or large yard, we have a variety of landscaping ideas that’ll shape the look and feel of your home. If you’re a gardener, you should consider soil testing the areas of your yard where you plan on growing plants and/or vegetables.

Upgrades and Replacements  

What are some DIY jobs you can tackle when an appliance or part of your home system breaks down? Learn some of the basics — from how to fix a doorbell to replacing a lightbulb when it goes out.

Maintenance 

Home maintenance doesn’t have to be a burden if you stay on top of problems when they arise. Whether you’re checking your sump pump, installing new smoke alarms, or caulking windows, there’s always something to do to ensure your home is healthy and up to code. Consider creating a home maintenance checklist for every season.

Annual

Year-round home maintenance is crucial if you don’t want to end up paying for a big repair. As a first-time buyer, we have a beginner’s guide to home maintenance so you’ll know the ins and outs on checking items like smoke alarms, water pressure and cleaning out your air conditioning units.

Electrical Safety Checks Video

Seasonal

Every season brings different home maintenance responsibilities. For winter maintenance, you obviously need to check if your heating systems are ready to go and that you don’t have any air leaking through your windows. For spring maintenance, make sure your home is free of pests — especially cockroaches — and take time to do exterior woodwork, roof inspections and to check your sprinkler systems. For summer maintenance, keep your cooling systems in check and schedule any major outdoor projects then. And last but not least, fall maintenance can involve anything from aerating the soil, cleaning your gutters to cleaning your chimney.

Monthly

Here are some helpful home maintenance tips that you should do every month to keep your systems in good standing.

Basic Projects for New Homeowners

If you’re new to the DIY world, we’ve got you covered! Learn how to start a garden, repair a broken pipe, fix an appliance or even use a leaf blower. Whether you’re doing something as common as painting a room or learning the more involved steps of fertilizing your lawn, tackling these types of projects will build your confidence and equip you to be a more informed and seasoned homeowner.

• How to Prune Your Garden: Spring is an ideal time for getting rid of the unwanted parts of your plants, but you can also prune during the early summer and late fall months. Think of yourself as a sculptor as you shape your plants, make room for new growth and keep your garden healthy.
• How to Repair Your Office Chair: Does your office chair need fixing? If your chair doesn’t bounce or has a hard time rolling, all you need is some basic tools and parts to rebuild it.

Basic Tools to Use

With all the projects on your list, you’re going to need some basic tools to get the job done right. If have plans to build a deck or some other substantial project, you’ll need an impact drill. Boring holes in wood or metal? Then you’ll want to purchase a drill press. For chores that help keep the exterior of your home clean and tidy, look into a pressure washer to clean off old paint and a leaf blower to maintain your landscaping.

More New Homeowner Tips and Information

Here are some additional tips and information that could help best prepare you to make the right decisions as a new homeowner — from checking your electrical and HVAC systems, compiling a list of contractors for needed repairs and creating an inventory of all your valuable assets you’ll be moving in with.

New Homeowner Products

There’s no shortage of things you could buy for your new house. It’s a list that could get long and very expensive pretty quickly. The key here is to focus in on what you need. Use this list for guidance and know what to avoid.

New Homeowner Resources 

If you have any questions on products that you’re considering purchasing for your home, these national home improvement chains are tried-and-true resources.

If you enjoyed this content, sign up for our new homeowner newsletter where we’ll guide you through the exciting journey of what to do before you purchase your dream house as well as give you expert tips and projects to help you make that new house a true home.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/how-to-fish-wire-through-wall/ Thu, 08 Apr 2021 21:50:51 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=403862 One of the basic skills of DIY electrical is knowing how to make connections inside switch, light and outlet boxes. But being able to “fish” wire, as the pros call it, through your walls lets you add new switches, lights and outlets exactly where you want them, or add communication cable like Cat 6 yourself.

You don’t have to settle for stepping over extension cords or draping wires across your walls. With these wire-fishing tips and tools, you can put wires where you need them.

Route Cable Behind Baseboard

If you’re like me and would rather install miles of trim than patch drywall, this is the way to go.

Remove the baseboard and cut a long, narrow hole in its place. Then drill holes in the studs for your wire to pass through. This works best with wide base trim but can be done with narrow base trim as well. Be sure to keep the holes in the studs at least 1-1/4-in. away from the stud edges to avoid the need for protective metal plates.

Make a Bevel Cut

If you have to cut an access hole, make the cut at an angle. Then when it’s time to patch it, spread joint compound around the hole and press the cutout back in. The mud will hold the plug in place. There’s no need for screws or backing, and the plug won’t fall through the hole.

Make a Chase With Trim

Run conduit or BX cable (armored cable) along the top corner of a wall and cover it with crown molding. You can cut small holes in the wall or ceiling where the wiring needs to exit the room.

Don’t Fish Power Cords

Cords that power appliances, TVs and power strips cannot be placed inside a wall. The National Electrical Code says these cords cannot replace permanent wiring. To avoid seeing these power cords, you can fish cable to add a new outlet nearby.

Give Communication Cable Enough Space

Communication cable like coax or Cat 6 should be kept away from cables that carry high voltage to outlets and lights. Pros recommend keeping them 12 to 16 inches away. If you must cross these cables, do so at a 90 degree angle.

Find the Easiest Route

The easiest route is not always the most direct. Take advantage of unfinished spaces like basements and attics to run wire from one end of the house to the other. You might use an extra 50 feet of wire, but it will save you lots of time.

Use a Lot of Cable

Pushing far more cable than you need into the walls or ceilings is helpful for a few reasons. First, it makes the job of hooking the cable you’re fishing much easier. It also eliminates lots of tugging, which can damage fragile Cat 6 cables.

Hide Wires With Raceway

Running wire on the wall surface with raceway is a great way to get power right where you want it without fishing wires through walls. You can hide the raceway behind furniture and paint it to match the wall. Build the raceway from an existing electrical box with snap-together components and hide the wire inside the channel.

Run Conduit in Closets or Cabinets

Conduit or armored cable is another great option for surface wiring, and it’s about half the cost of raceway. You wouldn’t want to run it over your walls like you would raceway, but it won’t be visible in a dark closet or along the backs of cabinets.

Splice Like a Pro

Sometimes you have to pull hard to get a cable through a wall, so make sure the cable is securely tied to your pulling tool, whether it’s a fish tape or a coat hanger.

This is my favorite method: Put the wire through the eyelet or around the hook, then wrap it around your fishing tool. Tape them together with electrical tape, making sure to taper the wrapped section so it will slide through holes.

Don’t Run Cable in Ductwork

Running cable inside ductwork, as convenient as it may be, is not allowed by code. You can run cable in plenum spaces like stud and joist bays for return air, but you’ll need a plenum-rated cable. These cables have special jackets that are nontoxic and rated for fire.

You can find plenum-rated Cat 6 and security cable at electrical supply stores. It will cost about twice as much as standard versions.

Wire Along the Plumbing Stack

Adding power in an upper level can mean running wires from the basement to the attic. In a two-story home, you’d have three ceilings to go through. But in older homes, sometimes this is as easy as lowering a plumb bob along the plumbing vent stack and pulling up the cable. Newer homes might not have enough space around the stack, but it’s worth checking first.

Drill Two Holes to Turn a Corner

Running wire around corners isn’t as hard as it seems; the key is to cut holes on each side of the corner. With a spade bit in an angle drill, or an angle attachment, drill a hole in each of the corner studs. This will give you a path to pull wire through.

Find Obstructions

Before cutting any holes in walls, map out the route you want your wire to take. Scan the wall with a stud finder to locate any blocking that might obstruct that route. If there’s blocking in one stud bay, the next one over might make a better path. You don’t want to find out the hard way.

Double-Duty Access Holes

Instead of cutting new holes in your walls or ceilings, you can use holes that are already there. Remove light fixtures, switches or outlets to use existing holes, or plan ahead to use the access hole for a new fixture.

Hide TV Wires With a Wiring Kit

The easiest way to hide TV wires is with an in-wall TV wiring kit ($60). Just cut holes for the two boxes, drop the wire down the wall and then plug in the extension cord. The kit is prewired with a male-ended plug and comes with an extension cord. This is especially helpful if a stud blocks a direct fishing route and you want to avoid a big wall-repair project.

Tuck Low-Voltage Wires

Low-voltage cable doesn’t have the same installation requirements as household power cables. Speaker wire, cables that provide power to doorbells and thermostats, and communication lines like Cat 6 don’t need to be run inside your walls. You can just tuck them under your baseboard, but not under carpet or rugs.

Wire-fishing gear

Glow Rods

Glow rods are a staple for wire fishing. Just like steel tape, they can be pushed up walls and along ceilings. They can usually be purchased in several lengths and be screwed together for longer spans. Most come with a swivel eyelet tip and a hook tip. The luminescent rods glow in the dark, illuminating dark joist and stud bays. You can find them for $40 at home centers.

Flex Bit

If you need to run wire across a few joists or studs, reach for a flex bit. They come in long lengths, and extensions are available so you can drill holes through several joists. They have an eyelet at the tip, so once you’ve made your holes you can pull the wire back through with the same bit.

One thing to note: Don’t drill through insulation with these bits. Expect to pay about $50 for a 54-inch flex bit at a home center.

Homemade Hooks

Some of my favorite fishing tools are ones you can make yourself. Small hooks made from cable or coat hangers let you grab cable just out of reach. Best of all, they’re economical.

90-Degree Drill Attachment

This is the perfect tool for drilling holes between stud bays. About $18 at most home centers, it’s a lot cheaper than a dedicated angle drill and serves the same purpose. It can be a little tricky to use with larger bits, so hold on tight.

Wire-Pulling Magnets

With a few options at different prices, magnets are cool tools for pulling wire along an insulated stud bay. This Magnepull ($125) consists of a steel leader and a roller magnet. You can even use it to retrieve lost bits and other tools from inside walls. Wire-pulling magnets, which range from $40 to $125, can be found at electrical supply stores.

Low Voltage Mud Ring

Use mud rings to prevent marring drywall as I pull cable. They also have markers in the corner to outline the perfect hole size and shape for single-gang boxes. When you’re done fishing, leave it in the wall and cover it with a blank faceplate to avoid patching (especially useful for hard-to-patch textured walls). These mud rings are available for less than $2 each at home centers.

Steel Fish Tape

This long roll of stiff steel is great for pushing wire through insulated walls, up wall cavities and down long lengths of joists. A roll starts at $15 at home centers.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/article/new-homeowners-essential-products/ Fri, 02 Apr 2021 19:11:35 +0000 https://www.familyhandyman.com/?p=401823 Buying a house is rarely as simple as getting the keys and settling in. Even if you didn’t buy a fixer upper, you’ll most likely want to give your new place some level of customization, from painting the walls to refinishing the floors (and you’ll probably want to change the locks, too.) Another thing to be ready for is the ongoing maintenance like yard work, repairing a broken toilet or even just keeping your new place clean.

Here’s a list of some of the most essential products, tools and other supplies you’ll need as you settle into your new house.

Home Renovations

While it’s generally a good idea to wait a year and get to know your house before you start knocking down walls and undertaking major renovations, projects like painting or hanging ceiling fans are an easy way to personalize and make your new home even more comfortable.

• Paint rollers. Faster and easier than using a brush when there’s a lot of wall space to cover, rollers are how you’ll do most of your painting.
• Paint brushes. You will still need paint brushes for trim, corners, and more. There’s a different brush for every job, so it’s essential to get exactly what you need.
• Paint remover and stripper. There will most likely be some old paint to remove before you put a new color on the wall.
• Paint. Before you buy paint, you’ll have to choose a color. There are a few different routes to take here, whether you’re choosing inspiration from things in your house or going with the latest trends.
• Additional painting supplies. Don’t forget to pick up some painter’s tape, a bucket or two, drop cloths, and whatever else that will help you do the job.
• Spackle. You may put a few dents in the wall while moving in, or you might need to repair some holes the previous owner left before painting.
• Smart light bulbs. If you plan on setting up your home with smart technology, one of the most common ways to utilize this feature is through your lighting.
• Ceiling fans are a must. Not only do they make an attractive addition to any room, but they also make your house more energy efficient, helping to cool it in the summer and get the heat flowing in the winter. Ceiling fans are easy to install yourself, too.

DIY Projects

Homeowner Tools

You will need some tools to take care of your new home.  Start with these three essential tools: a tape measure, a multi-utility knife, and an easy-to-store ladder. You’ll find that these are the things you’ll use over and over again. In addition to those, we also recommend:

• Cordless drill
• Pipe wrenches
• Hammer
• Extension cord
• Furnace filters
• Pest control

Tool Advice

Kitchen and Bathroom Supplies

Most families end up spending as much time in the kitchen as any room in the house, so it’s important to get your kitchen organized so you can make the most use of it. And you’ll obviously want your bathroom to be as comfortable as possible, too. Here are a few suggestions for what you’ll need.

• Pull-out trash can
• Drawer and shelf liner
• Countertop storage
• Silverware organizer
• Pot rack
• Spice rack
• Shower curtain rod
• Plunger
• Bidet attachment
• Bathroom drawer organizers
• Above-the-toilet storage

Kitchen and Bathroom Tips and Hints

Appliances

In most cases, your new house will already have all the appliances you need. However, it’s not unusual for the previous owner to have taken the washer and dryer with them, in which case you’ll need to get your own.

• Washer and dryer
• Mini fridge

Appliance Advice

Lawn Care

A lush lawn will have you spending a lot more time outdoors. It might even make you the envy of the neighborhood. But all that green grass is going to require some care and maintenance. 

• A lawn mower will likely be one of the bigger purchases you make as a new homeowner, so it’s important to get the right mower for your needs. A zero turn mower will make quick work out of a big yard. You’ll never have to worry whether or not you have enough gas with this electric riding mower from Ryobi, which can take care of two acres on a single charge. And for most yards, a self-propelled walk-behind mower is all you need.
• Garden hose
• Leaf blower
• A full kit of gardening tools like shovels, rakes, clippers and more are handy whether you’re a budding master gardener or just keeping on top of the maintenance.

Lawn Care DIY

Outdoor Living

There’s nothing better than kicking up your heels and relaxing in the backyard after a long day, or even a short one. Therefore, you’ll want to get your patio or outdoor living space set up just right.

• Whatever you like to eat, it’s going to taste better when it’s cooked outside. Whether you want a gas grill, a pellet smoker grill, or a charcoal grill, there are plenty of options.
• Patio furniture
• Hammock
• Hot tub
• Wind chimes (or smaller wind chimes if you’re worried about bothering the neighbors).

Backyard DIY Projects

Cleaning Supplies

Sorry, you’re going to have to clean your house. However, if you follow a few simple cleaning tips and use the right equipment, it’ll be easier than you think. Here’s what you need to get started.

• Stick vacuums have evolved into a tool for the whole house, and they won’t take up much room in your storage closet. If you have pets, you’ll definitely want a vacuum with some extra power. Robot vacuums are a nice accessory to help save time and keep on top of messes before they get out of hand.
• Mop kit
• Broom and dustpan
• Eco-friendly cleaning products
• Stain remover

Cleaning Tips

Storage

You don’t want to live out of boxes forever. Having the right storage solutions for your home makes it easy to unpack.

• Bookshelves
• DIY bookshelf plans
• Bookshelves for kids’ rooms
• Storage totes and containers
• Shoe storage 

Organization Tips

Design and Décor

After moving in and unpacking, the next step is dialing in your interior design. Even if you choose to wait to fully launch into the interior design while you paint or decide on renovations, you will at least want some basic furniture and accessories to start enjoying your new home right away. Remember as you get started that quality furniture can last a lifetime if you take good care of it.

• Welcome mat
• Curtains
• Smart blinds
• Fireplace tools
• Sectional or couch
• Dining table for small spaces
• TV stand
• Television

Design and Décor Tips

Garage

Your garage is for more than just cars. It’s a workshop and the place where your adventures begin. But you’ll want to get it organized so that it’s not a cluttered mess keeping you from doing the things you want.

• Parking sensor
• Bike rack
• Garage organizers for everything from tools to sporting goods

Garage Organization Tips

Home Security

Home security is more than just keeping your home safe from unwanted intruders — though that’s important, too — it’s also about preventing and being prepared for emergencies.

• Hide-a-key
• Wireless security system
• Flashlight
• Smoke and carbon monoxide detectors
• Fire extinguisher
• Smart locks
• Mold test kit

Safety Tips

If you enjoyed this content, sign up for our new homeowner newsletter where we’ll guide you through the exciting journey of what to do before you purchase your dream house as well as give you expert tips and projects to help you make that new house a true home.

]]> https://www.familyhandyman.com/project/install-new-hard-wired-or-battery-powered-smoke-alarms/ Wed, 31 Mar 2021 04:00:08 +0000 https://fhm.staging.rda.net/projects/install-new-hard-wired-or-battery-powered-smoke-alarms/ Replace a Hard-wired Smoke Detector

Photo 1: Disconnect the old hard-wired smoke alarm

Turn the power off. Remove the alarm and use a non-contact voltage detector to check the wires to make sure the power is off. Disconnect the wires and unscrew the mounting plate from the junction box.

Photo 2: Connect the new wired smoke alarm

Screw the new mounting plate to the junction box and connect the wires. Plug the harness into the new alarm, stuff the wires into the box, and mount the alarm on the plate.

If the smoke alarms in your house are at least 10 years old, it’s time to replace them. To get started, remove each alarm from its mounting plate. Most alarms have arrows that tell you which way to rotate the alarm for removal. You may have to use both hands and twist hard. Learn more tips on smoke detectors.

If you find that your alarms are connected to wires, don’t be intimidated. Replacing a hard-wired smoke detector is almost as easy as replacing a battery-powered version. New alarms are inexpensive. If your old alarms are connected to three wires as shown here, that means the alarms are interconnected — when one alarm detects smoke, they all howl. To ensure that your new alarms will work together, buy alarms of a single brand and model and replace them all at the same time. You’ll also need a non-contact voltage detector (Photo 1) and a wire stripper.

Turn off the power at the main electrical panel and disconnect the old alarm (Photo 1). Check to make sure the power is off with your voltage tester. If the wires aren’t connected as shown here (with each wire connected to another of the same color), make a simple sketch so you can connect the new alarm the same way. Your old alarm may be connected to two wires instead of three. Your new alarm will have a third “interconnect” wire (usually red or orange), but leave it unconnected if the old alarm had just two connections. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for other details. Write “replace in 2031” (or whenever it’s 10 years old) on the alarm’s back or mounting plate. Turn the power back on and push the alarm’s test button. If you connected three wires to each alarm, they should all sound at the same time.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this hard-wired smoke detector DIY project lined up before you start — you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools]

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips for a hard-wired smoke detector by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]