Two-Part Filler

Pros charge a bundle to apply wall texture. After partnering with HOMAX® for this post, I found out how easy it is to do it yourself with HOMAX® Pro Grade_™ Wall Texture for a fraction of the price of a pro. You don’t even need any special equipment, except a drywall-taping knife for knockdown texture. Use this aerosol wall texture spray to texture over a drywall repair or texture an entire wall. The specially designed, fully adjustable dual-control nozzle lets you fine-tune both the spray volume and pressure to get the texture you like. Choose an orange peel or knockdown-style texture.

Rick learns how to knock it down

I’ve never textured a wall before, let alone perform the knockdown procedure. So I read the directions and practiced before doing the actual application. The directions say to practice on cardboard. I didn’t have a large enough piece to practice on, so I taped rosin paper to the wall and covered the floor with a drop cloth. Then I tried several different volume and pressure settings and used the drywall knife to knock down each one until I found the combination I liked. Here’s what I learned from my practice sessions:

• You won’t get it right on the first pass. Plan on using about half the can to perfect your technique.

• Once you fine-tune the dual-control settings to get the texture you like, transfer that setting to each subsequent can as you complete the job.

• The heavier the application, the closer you must be to the wall.

• Spray in random circular patterns.

• Drag the knife across the texture material without any pressure. You can always apply more pressure on a second pass if you need to. However, if you apply too much pressure on the first pass, you’ll just smear the texture into one large blob. Then you’ll have to scrape it off and start again.

• Timing is critical. The directions say to knock down the product within one to two minutes. If you wait too long, the product stiffens and won’t knock down as easily. If you knock it down too soon, it’s too watery and smears. Get the hang of timing and work in small sections.

How much to buy

HOMAX® Pro Grade_™ Wall Texture costs about $16 per can at home centers. Each can of knockdown texture covers up to 75 sq. ft. for a light coating or 35 sq. ft. for a heavy coating. The orange peel texture covers up to 125 sq. ft. for a fine coating and 70 sq. ft. for a heavy coating. The can label shows the finished results for each type of application, so use that as a buying guide. However, I recommend buying several extra cans so you don’t run out in mid-project. Return what you don’t use.

Final tips

The product dries quickly (in about 60 minutes, depending on the humidity and temperature), so you can paint the same day. However, the manufacturer recommends priming the texture before painting, so figure that into your project time.

The orange peel texture is available in water- and oil-based formulations. The knockdown is water-based only. But both formulas contain flammable solvents, so you’ll need adequate cross ventilation to remove the vapors. Wear a proper charcoal respirator to avoid breathing the vapors and wear goggles to protect your eyes from splatter.

— Rick Muscoplat, Contributing Editor

This is a sponsored article written by me on behalf of Homax. The opinions and text are all mine.

Slice Through Metal With an Arc Blade

Lenox has a curved recip blade in its diverse lineup of tool blades. The curve helps change the angle of attack on every stroke, which speeds up cutting. It’s similar to the orbital action on many reciprocating saws. These blades are not intended for precise scrollwork—they’re most useful when you have a whole bunch of aggressive cuts to make. Lenox Gold Power Arc Curved Blades are available online.

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How to Cut Outside Drywall Corners

It’s tempting to cut the first piece of an outside corner flush with the framing and run the perpendicular piece flush with the first. Don’t do it. If you run the first piece just a little too long, the second piece will flare out. If you cut the second piece a bit too long, it will have to be shaved down to accommodate the corner bead. A good-quality metal corner bead will cover a gap and hold up as well as a perfectly flush corner—without the fuss.

Properly taping drywall is a fine art but fortunately, you don’t need to be naturally gifted to get the hang of it. These tips and step-by-step tricks of the trade will help you achieve invisible seams and smooth walls.

Video: How to Tape Drywall

Fill Wide Gaps with Setting-Type Compound

• Mix the powder setting compound with water in your mud pan to a paste consistency.
• Press the compound into gaps, especially those wider than about 1/4 inch.
• Keep the fill level even with, or slightly below, the surrounding surface.
  • Pro tip: Don’t overfill. Keep the fill flush with the drywall surface.
  • Pro tip: Work quickly, because the water activates a catalyst that causes the compound to harden. Setting times vary, depending upon which mix you buy. Start with a 90- minute setting compound to give yourself plenty of working time so it doesn’t harden in your pan.

New products are constantly making DIY projects faster, easier and cheaper. Introducing these products is and always has been part of our mission. In fact, many of the most important advances were first publicized in Family Handyman. Here are a few of our favorite DIY breakthroughs.

A Great Idea Made Better!

My design is similar to one we featured 65 years ago. The building process was much the same, but I upgraded the plywood, used modern ball-bearing slides, and chose concealed push latches for a clean look. Hidden behind the paneled wall is a lot of accessible, organized storage space.

Open the Wall

• Pry off the baseboard, then remove the drywall.
• I cut out a small section of drywall first, so I could see inside and verify that there were no wires or other obstructions in the cavity.
• If there is an existing outlet, you’ll have to relocate it. I used a reciprocating saw to cut the drywall, taking care not to cut into the stair stringer.

According to the latest data from the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, the construction industry added 16,000 new jobs in August 2020. Residential construction employment added 25,000 new jobs, counteracting a 16,000 job decline in nonresidential specialty trade contractors.

“Construction is becoming a tale of two sectors, as homebuilding and limited nonresidential niches thrive but most other private, as well as public, construction shrinks,” said Ken Simonson, chief economist for the Associated General Contractors of America (AGC).

“These employment numbers are in line with our survey, which found a plurality of construction firms expect it will take more than six months before their volume of business matches year-ago levels.”

Historically high levels of demand for housing this past summer boosted the home building industry and created a bright spot in the construction industry overall. It’s been a busy season for residential construction. That the industry continues to add jobs even in late summer is a positive sign that these levels of activity are likely to continue.

“[This] report indicates that America’s nascent economic recovery remains fully in place,” said Anirban Basu, chief economist for the Associated Builders and Contractors (ABC). “The big news was that the nation’s rate of unemployment declined to 8.4 percent, even as more people reentered the job market, which was due in part to a cessation of a sizable federal supplement to state unemployment insurance benefits.”

Construction employment in August remained 425,000 jobs lower than its most recent peak last February. The overall industry unemployment rate sat at 7.6 percent, more than double what it was at the same time last year.

“There is a lot that Washington officials can do to help boost demand for construction projects and get more people back to work rebuilding the economy,” said Stephen E. Sandherr, chief executive officer of the AGC. “The challenge is that the coronavirus has put many contractors in the position of looking for work and workers at the same time.”

How to Skim-Coat Walls

If you’re a skilled drywall taper or plasterer, you probably use a hawk and trowel to skim-coat walls. We don’t expect to change your mind if you use those tools as second hands. But if you’re a remodeler who does only occasional skim-coating to fix wrecked walls, you know it’s a tough skill to master. Plus, here’s how to choose the right joint compound for your project.

The method we show isn’t faster than traditional skim-coating — you have to do two or three coats and let each one dry in-between. But it’s idiot-proof, and the walls will end up flat and smooth. So if you’re a contractor who’s given up on skim-coating and you always call in a taper for the task, you can save on labor by tackling it yourself next time. It only takes a regular paint roller and a squeegee knife. The 14-in.-wide squeegee knife we used is called a Magic Trowel.

Before you start on this project, if you’re having some issues with your drywall check out this video:

Start by Prepping the Walls

• With this method of how to retexture a wall, you don’t just spot-prime; you roll the entire wall with a stain-blocking sealer.
  • Pro tip: If you’ve always used solvent-based sealers like traditional BIN and KILZ, it’s time to try one of the water-based stain killers. Zinsser’s Bulls Eye 1-2-3 primer works well, and you’ll avoid any griping from your customers about the smell.
• Roll a fast-drying, stain-sealing drywall primer on the walls. The primer seals loose paper and promotes better adhesion of the joint compound.
• These are thin layers that won’t fix holes or torn-away paper, or make uneven sections level. Patch these problems with setting-type joint compound.
• Let the compound harden (it doesn’t have to be dry) before you start skimcoating.
• Don’t rush on to the next step; let the sealer dry thoroughly before applying any joint compound.

When you need to hang something in a spot without a stud, drywall anchors are the way to go. But can they be trusted to bear the rated weight? We were skeptical. So we picked up some drywall anchors at a local home center and a few others online to subject them to a stress test. Here’s what we found.

The HomeLAB Test:

We installed each anchor in one-half in. drywall, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Then we hung a tension scale from the anchor and fastened it to a hook screwed into a 2×4 fastened to the wall studs. We slowly twisted the turnbuckle and watched as the tension increased until the anchor buckled. Here’s how we tested each drywall anchor:

• Tension scale: When tension is applied, this scale measures weight in pounds.

• Turnbuckle: Turning increases the tension on the scale, providing a weight reading.

• Hold-down: A 2×4 screwed to studs provides a solid base.

Check out this compilation of tips for working with drywall to make your next build or repair easier.

The Results:

All the anchors we tested lived up to the claims, and all but one exceeded their weight rating.

Everbilt Ribbed

• Claimed: 22 Lbs.
• Tested: 80 Lbs.

Given the modest claim, we didn’t expect much from these, but we were amazed by their strength.

Cobra TripleGrip

• Claimed: 45 Lbs.
• Tested: 90 Lbs.

This heavier-duty anchor snaps into place when the screw is installed, but it performed about the same as the Everbilt Ribbed.

Pop Toggle

• Claimed: 60 Lbs.
• Tested: 130 Lbs.

This anchor clips to the back of the drywall and creates a tight bond. In our test, it held more than twice its rated weight.

E-Z Ancor Twist-N-Lock Medium Duty (Best Value)

• Claimed: 75 LBS.
• Tested: 100 LBS.

The E-Z Ancor is a great multipurpose choice. They’re widely available, inexpensive and easy to install (no need to drill a hole).

Toggler SNAPTOGGLE (Best Overall)

• Claimed: 80 Lbs.
• Tested: 180 Lbs.

This anchor held strong at 180 lbs., and we couldn’t turn the turnbuckle any more. They’re overkill for most projects, but sometimes the job calls for maximum strength.

Cobra DrillerToggle

• Claimed: 90 Lbs.
• Tested: 140 Lbs.

This anchor screws into drywall. Then, as you drive in a screw, a metal arm tightens against the back of the drywall.

WallClaw Anchor

• Claimed: 90 Lbs.
• Tested: 90 Lbs.

Easy to install with no drilling required (use a hammer), this stays true to its weight rating. But once over that, several popped right out of the drywall, leaving a big hole.

Quick Table Legs

If you need to build a quick table, here’s a great way to make the legs. We’ve used this design to make tables for cabins, and utility tables for the shop and yard. Each leg is made from a 1×6, ripped to make two tapered pieces. Glue and nail (or screw) the two pieces together, sand as much as you feel is necessary, and you’re done. The taper jig is quick to make, but it works only for this particular taper.

Avoid butt joints

Hang drywall vertically on walls to eliminate butt joints. Nail 2x2s to studs that don’t align with the edges of the sheets.

To hide “butt joints” (where two non-tapered ends of drywall meet), you have to build up a hump of joint compound that’s very thin and wide. This is time consuming and difficult to do well. So if you’re a novice drywall finisher, avoiding butt joints is smart.

The best way to avoid butt joints is to use sheets of drywall that are long enough to cover entire walls and ceilings. As a result, you’ll have only tapered joints to finish. Drywall sheets are commonly available in 8- and 12-ft. lengths, and specialty suppliers carry 14-ft. sheets.

If your ceiling is longer than 14 ft., you can’t avoid butt joints. But you can avoid butt joints on a wall that exceeds 14 ft. Simply hang the sheets vertically rather than horizontally. That way, you’ll have several tapered joints to cover, but no butt joints. Hanging drywall vertically is slower than hanging it horizontally because you have to make sure the tapered edges fall at the centers of studs. Cut the first sheet to width so the tapered edge lands on the center of a stud. After that, the edges of each sheet should fall perfectly on studs. If you run into misplaced studs, nail 2x2s to them. If you have 9-ft. ceilings, call a drywall supplier to find 10-ft.-long sheets.

Use mesh tape, not paper

Mesh tape

Apply adhesive-backed mesh tape to avoid fussing with paper tape while you spread joint compound.

Pros use paper tape to strengthen joints. But in less-skilled hands, paper tape can ripple, slip out of place or trap air bubbles. If you push too hard as you embed paper tape, you’ll squeeze out all the joint compound behind it and the tape will peel off later. Adhesive-backed mesh tape eliminates all those glitches. Just stick it in place and it stays put, leaving you free to concentrate on spreading a smooth coat of mud. And since it doesn’t require an underlying layer of compound, mesh allows for a thinner buildup over butt joints and repairs. You can use mesh anywhere except inside corners.

But mesh tape has one weakness (literally): It’s not as strong as paper. To compensate, you have to cover it with setting-type joint compound, which is stronger than premixed compound (see tip below). Apply mesh tape no more than a few hours before you’re ready to cover it. Left uncovered, it will eventually fall off.

Fill joints faster with setting-type compound

Deep joints get setting-type compound

Mix setting compound with water for deep filling around corner bead, tapered joints and gaps in drywall.

Setting compound

Setting compound is sold as a dry powder, then mixed with water to a smooth, stiff consistency

Mixing up setting compound is a messy nuisance, but it’s worth it. Setting compound has three key advantages over premixed versions: It allows you to use mesh tape, it hardens fast and it shrinks much less. Quick hardening and low shrinkage make setting compound perfect for deep filling. A thick layer of premixed compound takes days to dry and shrinks. You’ll need several coats to fill the depression, and the more layers you add, the harder it is to get smooth results.

For small repair jobs, you can mix setting compound with a paint paddle. For larger jobs, use a corded drill with a 12-in. long mixer attachment. Don’t buy a 24-in. mixer unless you have a powerful 1/2-in. drill. The key to a smooth, chunk-free mix is to let it stand for about five minutes after the initial mixing. That lets the chunks absorb water before final mixing. Setting compounds have different hardening times, ranging from 5 to 210 minutes. The 45- or 90-minute versions are best for most jobs. Be sure to choose a “lightweight” setting compound. Other versions become so hard that sanding away mistakes is nearly impossible. Even the lightweight versions are harder to sand than premixed compound, so it’s best to use setting compound for the first coat and premixed compound for later coats. Be sure to clean tools before the setting compound hardens.

Coat inside corners faster and smoother with a corner knife

Drywall Corner Tool: Corner knife

Smooth both sides of inside corners at once with an inside corner knife. Scrape off the ridges with a taping knife.

It takes a steady hand to embed tape in inside corners with a standard drywall knife. One little slip of the knife and you’ll gouge one side while you’re smoothing the other. An inside corner knife not only eliminates that problem but does the job faster. Outside corner knives are also available, but we don’t recommend them, since corner bead makes smoothing outside corners almost foolproof.

Apply compound and place the tape as usual. Then load some mud onto the corner knife to lubricate the knife and leave a thin coat of compound over the paper. Start at the top of the corner and drag the knife down to about 16 in. from the floor. Then start at the floor and drag upward. Ease off when you reach the area that’s already smooth. You may have to repeat this process two or three times to fully embed the tape and create a smooth, straight corner. A corner knife doesn’t ensure straight corners, so reinforced corner tape is a good idea. Use a corner knife for the first coat only; after that, coat one side at a time, allowing one side to harden before you coat the other.

Dunk paper tape to avoid drywall tape bubbles and bulges

Moisten paper tape

Tear paper tape to length and wet it. Pull the tape between your fingers to squeegee off the excess water. Here’s a TikTok hack that makes tearing tape easier.

Paper tape can ripple, slip, bulge and bubble. But you can minimize these problems by dropping it into a bucket of water. Wet paper tape is more pliable than dry tape, so it traps fewer air bubbles behind it. Water also makes the paper slick, so your knife slides over the tape without creating ripples or creases. Wetting doesn’t eliminate the squeeze-out problem, so you still have to be careful to leave a thin layer of mud between the tape and the drywall. Don’t let the tape soak—that will soften the paper and make it more susceptible to scuffs and tears.

Keep corners straight with reinforced tape

Reinforced corner tape

Embed reinforced tape at inside corners to provide a straight guide for your knife. Be careful not to kink the metal strips.

Inside corners are tough to keep neat and straight. Unless you have a very steady hand, your knife can wander as you embed the tape. And if you create a wavy corner with the first coat of mud, creating a straight corner with subsequent coats is almost impossible.

The solution is to use tape that’s backed with metal or plastic strips (available in100 ft. rolls at home centers). This tape is especially helpful on odd-angled corners, which are very hard to keep straight. It’s still possible to create a wavy corner if you push too hard, so apply light, even pressure as you smooth the joint compound. The strips reduce ripples and bubbles too, so there’s no need to wet the tape. Don’t overlap the tape where inside corners meet the ceiling. Instead, cut the tape short to avoid a triple-thick buildup of tape.

Flatten bumps and bulges between coats for less sanding later

Scrape high spots

Shave off high spots in setting-type compound before it hardens. Allow standard joint compound to dry completely before you scrape and sand.

Everyone hates the dust cloud raised by sanding drywall. And the best way to minimize sanding later is to knock down high spots between coats. Left alone, these high spots will grow higher and wider (and harder to fix) with each coat. Don’t worry about low spots; subsequent coats will fill them.

If you used setting-type compound, inspect the joints before the compound has hardened completely. Run a 12-in.-wide knife over every joint. The blade will scrape off small ridges and nubs. More important, it will act as a straightedge, revealing larger bumps and bulges. When the compound is about the consistency of a bar of soap, you can easily shave down bulges without gouging. You can sand and scrape setting compound after it’s completely hard, but that’s more work.

With standard joint compound, however, it’s best to let each coat dry completely before inspecting, scraping and sanding. The surface of partially dry standard compound may be firm while the underlying material remains soft and easy to gouge.

Create a smooth surface with a knockdown knife

Knockdown knife

Smooth out ridges with a knockdown knife. Press lightly as you drag the knife over joint compound.

Feathering out a butt joint or skim-coating a whole wall is difficult because your knife leaves ridges on the broad surface—and touching them up often creates even more ridges. The solution is a “knockdown” knife. With its soft rubber blade, this squeegee-like tool floats over the surface, flattening ridges without creating new ones.

A knockdown knife won’t scrape down big bulges or fill wide depressions, so make the surface as flat as you can with a 12- or 14-in. metal knife first. Then drag the knockdown knife gently over the surface in one continuous pass. Apply light, even pressure and don’t stop or hesitate. On a butt joint, you’ll have to make two or three passes to smooth the whole surface. You can make more passes if necessary, but stop before the compound starts to harden. Although the rubber blade is soft, it can still make a mess of partially hardened compound. Knockdown knives are available in 18- and 22-in. widths at drywall suppliers and some home centers and hardware stores. A 22-in. version is best for butt joints. To order one online, search for “knockdown knife.”

For smooth walls faster, finish with topping compound

Any type of joint compound can hold tiny air or water bubbles that leave pockmarks on the surface. But you’ll get fewer pockmarks with “topping” compound. Topping compound looks just like other versions of premixed joint compound, but it has a creamier texture. That smooth consistency makes it easier to feather out and creates a glossy surface with very few pockmarks. It also shrinks less as it dries. With all these advantages, topping compound helps you get to the final sanding stage with fewer coats and fewer fixes between coats. And when the time comes, you’ll find that topping compound is the easiest compound to sand. Topping compound has poor bonding strength, so don’t use it for the first coat.

Keep crumbs out of your mud to prevent scars

Keep compound moist

Prevent crumbs of dry compound from forming in the bucket. Wipe the inside of the bucket clean and cover the leftover compound with water.

You can’t create a smooth surface using joint compound that has crumbs of hardened compound in it. One tiny chunk clinging to your knife will leave a scar across the whole joint. Cleanliness is the key to keeping your mud free of chunks. Scrape down the insides of the bucket every time you scoop out mud. Then wipe the sides clean with a wet rag. At the end of the day, cover the compound with a thin layer of water. The water will remain on top of the compound, so you can pour it off before you use the remaining mud.

Never dump leftover compound from your mud pan back into the bucket; just throw it away. To keep the pan and tools clean between uses, scour them with an abrasive sponge or immerse them in water. Setting-type compound will continue to harden even under water, so wash tools as soon as you’re done. Never send large amounts of setting compound down the drain—it can plug pipes.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools] You’ll also need an inside corner trowel and a paddle mixer

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

Too many choices!

Lightweight “all-purpose” drywall compound and “easy-sand” 45-minute setting drywall compound are the two items novices should load into their carts. You’ll find uses for all that other stuff as your projects get bigger— and you get faster and better.

Setting compounds

Setting drywall compounds are dry powders that are mixed with water as needed. They harden in the time indicated on the bag.

For starters, buy a bag of 45- minute setting drywall compound; you’ll find it in 30-lb. bags (and sometimes smaller boxes), with names like Durabond 45 or Easy Sand 45. It comes as a powder—mostly plaster of Paris—you mix with water as you need it. It hardens quickly (you guessed it, in 45 minutes), shrinks very little and dries hard as a rock. This makes it ideal for filling oversize cutouts around electrical boxes, nail and screw dimples and cracks in areas where drywall sheets don’t butt tightly. And since it dries quickly, you can move on to the “real” taping without waiting. Buy an “easy-sand” variety; the standard stuff dries so hard you can spend hours sanding ridges left behind by your trowel. Make sure to clean your tools off pronto when you’re done unless you want a sculpture titled “Drywall Knife Stuck in Pan.”

For embedding the tape and the subsequent layers, buy lightweight, all-purpose joint compound in the familiar (and ever-so-useful) 5-gallon bucket. This drying compound hardens through evaporation—which means waiting up to 24 hours between coats. Apply it full strength across the joints and at corners for bedding the tape. Then use it full strength or slightly thinned for the top layers. Try to avoid ridges and bumps with all purpose joint compound. But if you get them, don’t worry; the lightweight compound sands easily. It also scratches easily, so get a coat of primer on it as soon as you can. All purpose joint compounds is worth the extra buck per 5 gallons you’ll pay for it. A 5-gallon bucket will finish about 450 sq. ft. of drywall, the equivalent of fifteen 4×8 sheets.

What’s all the other stuff on the shelves? Topping compounds are “soupy” and contain less adhesive than all-purpose compounds. This makes them easy to feather and sand and thus ideal for the final coat or coats. Some pros are fond of this stuff, but for small jobs, all-purpose is fine. The five- and 20- minute setting compounds are used by pros for filling gaps, bedding tape, sometimes even for topcoats. Time is money for these folks; they can get away with using fast-setting compounds because they know how to apply them quickly and smoothly with very little sanding. But if you’re a rookie, stay clear of these; they’ll harden before you can walk across the room!

How to Fix Water Stains on Ceiling Photo 1: Scrap off the damaged texture

Lay down a tarp and scrape off all the loose, flaking texture with a putty knife. Hold a scrap of cardboard underneath the damaged area to catch the falling flakes.

How to Fix Water Stains on Ceiling Photo 2: Block off the surrounding area

Pin a plastic tarp around all four sides of the patching area (stay 1 ft. away from the damage), and let the tarp hang at least 4 ft. down.

How to Fix Water Stains on Ceiling Photo 3: Spray the area with primer

Spray stain-blocking primer over the water-damaged area and let it completely dry.

How to Fix Water Stains on Ceiling Photo 4: Spray the texture

Shake the can of texture for a couple of minutes, and then screw the nozzle onto the valve stem. Hold the can 9 to 14 in. away from the ceiling. Squeeze the trigger with quick half-second bursts while sweeping the can over the damaged area. Allow the texture to dry for 24 hours before painting.

Once the ceiling is dry, remove any loose or flaking texture (Photo 1). Wear a dust mask and safety glasses to protect yourself from falling debris. Spraying the stain blocker and ceiling texture are downright messy affairs, so tarp off a work area as shown in Photo 2. Many aerosol paints don’t spray well upside down, but the stain-blocking primer in Photo 3 is designed to spray up (Kilz Upshot is available at home centers and hardware stores).

Applying the new ceiling texture (Photo 4) is the trickiest part of the whole project. The texture comes out fast and the propellant dissipates quickly. You’ll only get about four seconds of spray per can, so you may want to purchase an extra can and practice on a sheet of cardboard. The texture repair is designed to match the original white ceiling texture color, but you might have to repaint the entire ceiling to completely hide the patch.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools] You’ll also want rubber or latex gloves.

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

Do a Scrape Test

When learning how to remove popcorn ceilings, scrape a small test area first before committing to all the trouble of prepping the room. Try it dry first, then dampen it with water and try again. Some texture comes off easily without water, but in most cases wetting it is most effective. In the event that the water does not soak into the texture and soften it, the ceiling has probably been painted or paint has been added to the texture mix. In that case, wetting the ceiling may not help. You’ll have to decide whether you want to tackle a difficult scraping job or choose another way to hide your popcorn ceiling.

How to Build a Drywall Arch

Converting a plain doorway into a curved arch is a relatively straightforward project that requires some carpentry and drywall taping skills. You’ll need to frame a curved arch, bend and fasten a strip of drywall to the curved framing, and then install a flexible corner bead. None of these steps are difficult, but it’s fussy work.

Cut into Drywall and Make Template

First cut away the drywall inside the opening to expose the framing. Don’t worry if you break it back a few inches on the walls. Next determine the style and size of the arch (half circle, partial circle or ellipse) and make a pattern out of cardboard. Tape this up in the opening to make sure it looks OK and leaves enough headroom.

Use this template to mark out and cut two 1/2-in.-thick plywood arches. Next cut a 6-ft. 2×4 down to 2-1/2 in. wide (or 2 in. narrower than the total wall thickness).Cut one top block and two side blocks and nail them to the door framing. Center them so that the 1/2-in. plywood arches will sit flush with the existing framing. Now nail the arched plywood into place on both sides.

Popcorn Ceiling Texture

Probably the best-known drywall texture, “popcorn ceiling” gets its name from its slightly extruded, rounded knob-like texture. Its uneven distribution makes it particularly popular when there’s a need to cover up ceiling repairs. Plus, it has the benefit of slight sound dampening.

Popcorn ceilings have gone in and out of fashion several times over the last half century, and if the texture was applied prior to 1980, there is a chance that it contains asbestos. For that reason, it’s often best to simply cover over popcorn ceiling with a new layer of drywall instead of trying to remove it.

If you want to remove popcorn ceiling texture, here’s how to do it yourself.

Here is our tutorial on how to cover existing texture with drywall.

Tight fit around electrical boxes

Cutting the drywall in place results in a tight fit around electrical boxes and eliminates time-consuming wall repair.

Tight fit around electrical fixtures

Use a spiral saw to get a perfect fit for recessed lights in drywall. You don’t need exact measurements.

A spiral saw, which is actually a mini router, is one of the best tools for cutting openings in drywall for electrical boxes. It lets you cut holes quickly and accurately without the time-consuming measuring and marking usually required. And once you get the hang of this tool, every box will be perfectly cut out, reducing the amount of time you’ll spend patching.

With special bits, spiral saws can also cut wood and some types of soft tile. With the mini angle grinder attachment, you can mount a diamond blade, metal cutting discs and sanding discs to your saw. Other attachments, like a flexible shaft for getting into tight spots, are also available.

This specialized tool is especially worth buying if you have a big drywalling job on the horizon. In this article, we’ll show you how to cut around electrical outlets and lights when you’re hanging drywall. We’ll also show you a few other handy uses for a spiral saw.

You’ll find spiral saws in the tool section of home centers, at drywall suppliers and at online tool sellers. For maximum versatility, consider buying the kit that contains the angle grinder attachment. You’ll also need bits. For drywall work, buy a package of guidepoint bits. Spiral saws are noisy and dusty, so don’t forget your safety gear. Safety glasses, hearing protection and a good-quality (two-strap) dust mask are essential.

Set up the saw and prep the drywall

Special thin bits

Special thin bits cut wood, drywall and soft tile.

After you insert the bit into the collet, pull it out until about 1/8 in. of the smooth part of the shank is showing before tightening the collet. This will help prevent bit breakage. Then adjust the base so that the bit protrudes about 1/4 in. beyond the depth of the material you’re cutting.

When you use a spiral saw to cut outlets, there’s no need for precise measuring. Simply mark the approximate center of each electrical box or other opening on the face of the drywall and cut them out after the sheet is loosely attached to the framing. Before you hang the drywall, turn off the power to the electrical boxes. Then press the wires to the back of the box to avoid damaging them with the bit. A hammer handle works well for this job.

When you hang the sheets, don’t place any fasteners within about 16 in. of an electrical box until you’ve cut it out. Otherwise, the drywall is pressed against the box, and it will break out before you finish the cut, creating extra patching work. Use symbols to mark nonstandard boxes so you’ll have a better idea what you’re cutting around. For example, draw a square for doublewide boxes or a circle for round light fixture boxes. Make sure you mark and cut every box. Searching for missing electrical boxes buried in finished walls is no fun.

Cut counterclockwise when you’re going around the outside of a box, window or other protruding object (Photo 3 below).Move the spiral saw clockwise if you’re cutting around the inside of an opening such as a hole in the wall for a recessed medicine cabinet.

It takes practice to get a perfect cut

Photo 1: Push the bit tip into the box center

Mark the approximate center of the box. Hang the sheet with several screws placed at least 16 in. away from the box. Plunge the tip of the spinning bit into the drywall at your mark.

Photo 2: Move the bit to the box edge

Move the tool slowly to the right until you feel the edge of the box, then stop. With the tool still running, move the bit up and over the edge of the box.

Photo 3: Cut around the outside

Run the bit counterclockwise along the outside edge of the box to complete the cut. Apply just enough pressure to keep the bit in contact with the outside edge of the box. See results above.

Cutting around a plastic electrical box isn’t quite as easy as it looks. I recall that on my first attempt I put too much pressure on the bit and cut right through the side of the soft plastic box. Try to apply just enough pressure to keep the tool moving around the outside edge of the box. Concentrate on feeling the edge of the box. Before you tackle the real thing, mock up a practice board by nailing a spare plastic box to a stud and covering it with a scrap of drywall. Practice routing around the box until you get the hang of it.

Cut perfect circles in drywall or wood

Circle-cutting attachment

The pin anchors the attachment and the handle spins the saw in a perfect circle.

Photo 1: Center the pin

Punch a hole with a drywall nail at the center mark. Align the pin with the center hole, and with the spiral saw running, pivot the bit into the drywall.

Photo 2: Rotate the saw

Cut the hole by rotating the saw counterclockwise around the center point.

This circle-cutting attachment is great for jobs that require a precise circle, such as cutting round holes for remodeling-type recessed lights, which require you to insert the light/box combination after cutting the hole. Make sure you know where the ceiling joists are so you don’t cut over them.

Spiral saws can cut wood, too

Photo 1: Pivot the bit into the wood

Rest the base of the tool on the surface at a 45-degree angle. With the motor running, tilt the tool up while pivoting the bit into the wood.

Photo 2: Stop and restart at corners

Stop when you reach a corner and start again in the new direction. Turning the corner in a continuous motion will likely result in a rounded corner cut.

Don’t throw away your jigsaw—cutting wood with a spiral saw is slow and noisy. But for tight spots and intricate cuts, a spiral saw is a handy tool to have. For wood cutting, install a spiral-cut wood bit. Since these bits aren’t designed to drill straight down into the wood, use the method shown in Photo 1 to start the cut. Once the bit is through the wood and the base of the spiral saw is flat on the surface, you can cut out any shape freehand. Follow the recommendation in Photo 2 for turning corners. Keep in mind that 3/4 in. is about the maximum thickness you can cut, and even that is slow going.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools] You’ll also want a spiral saw, spiral saw bits and a circle-cutting attachment.

One of the most frustrating and time-consuming parts of hanging drywall is cutting all those holes for electrical boxes and lights. Cut them too small and you have to take the piece down and recut it. Cut them too big and you’ve got a bigger taping job on your hands, or you wind up throwing away the sheet and starting over.

Here we’ll show you how to cut electrical box openings in drywall that fit perfectly the first time—without broken corners and especially without being too big. Oversized holes are a hassle to fix and look tacky with those big plate covers. If you do make a mistake, check out our remedies for getting you out of a jam.

Recessed lights

Photo 1: Measure the light location

Measure the light from two established edges. Read the distances at the near and far sides of the box. Write them on the framing if you have a short memory!

Photo 2: Mark the cutout in the drywall

Transfer the measurements to the drywall and draw a box. Drive a nail through the center point for a pilot hole. Rotate the cutter several times to score the paper.

Photo 3: Knock out the opening

Score the paper on the backside, using the pilot hole to center the circle cutter. Then knock out the plug from the front with a little rap from your hammer.

Cutting openings for recessed lights can be tricky because you have to measure over your head and then transfer the numbers to a sheet that’s sitting on the floor. It’s so easy to get confused and lay out the openings from the wrong edge and wind up with holes cut in the wrong place. Then you’ve got a 55-lb.piece of trash on your hands.

When you’re staring at the sheet trying to figure out which end or side to measure from, pantomime swinging the sheet up into place instead of doing the mental gymnastics. Then mark on the sheet the side and end to pull your tape measure from. You’ll never go wrong.

You can cut openings for recessed lights by laying them out as we show and then drawing a circle with a compass and simply cutting the openings with am electric drywall saw. But if you have several recessed light openings to cut out, invest in a circle cutter. It works like a compass and cuts large circles fast and accurately.

Start by measuring the front and back and left and right sides of the fixture (Photo 1), then transfer those measurements to the drywall and draw a box to outline the hole. Draw lines from opposite corners to find the exact center (Photo 2).

Next tap a small nail through the center point to mark the other side of the drywall. Set the circle cutter to cut about 1/8 in. larger than the fixture, stick the center point in the middle and rotate the cutter while forcing the wheel into the drywall surface. The key is to cut through the paper. It may take a couple of rotations. Then repeat on the other side of the drywall and knock out the plug.

Round boxes

Photo 1: Mark the outlet on the drywall

Measure the round box edges the same way as we showed for recessed lights. Then lay out the position on the drywall. A drywall square speeds the process.

Photo 2: Trace a round box on the drywall

Use an extra round box as a pattern (or use a compass) to draw the cutout.

Photo 3: Cut out the opening

Punch the drywall saw through the drywall with the heel of your hand, then saw along the outside of the line.

Measure and lay out the boxes exactly as you did for the recessed lights . A drywall square (Photo 1) comes in handy for marking box positions. Get one at a home center. Draw the vertical lines first, then make horizontal lines by setting your pencil at the correct distance on the square and sliding the square along the finished edge.

Instead of using a circle cutter, trace the round hole with an extra box (Photo 2). If you don’t have a box or a compass, sketch the curve freehand. You’ll be surprised how accurate you can make it. Then cut the hole with a drywall saw (Photo 3). It’s best to slightly angle the saw so the opening in the back is larger than in the front. That way the box will slip into the opening easier.

If you cut along the outside of the lines, the box should fit. But don’t assume the holes will slip perfectly over the boxes. Hang the sheet with a few screws that are placed well away from the opening. Then gently push the opening over the edge of the box until the sheet rests flat against the studs. If you ram home screws near a box without careful fitting, chances are you’ll bust out a few edges around the box. (See “Oops!”)

Avoid busted edges like the plague! To fix them, you have to cut away all loose paper and broken drywall and fill the gap with setting compound. Then you have to apply tape and several coats of regular taping compound. Work carefully to avoid the hassle!

Rectangular or square boxes

Photo 1: Cut out three sides of the box

Lay out all four sides of the box and cut through three sides with a drywall saw.

Photo 2: Use a knife to score the fourth side

Score the fourth side with a utility knife, then snap the flap open with a little punch from the butt end of the knife.

Photo 3: Cut off the flap

Slice off the flap from the backside with the utility knife.

Photo 4: Widen the opening, if needed

Fasten the drywall with a few screws, then press the cutout over the box. For extra clearance, shave the edges as needed with your utility knife.

You’d think that cutting in rectangular boxes would be much easier than cutting in round ones. But they’re actually a little trickier. If the hole is a bit off, you’re much more likely to blow out an entire side. (See “Oops!”)

Accuracy is especially critical if you have to cut several box holes in the same sheet. Also keep in mind that the electrical code allows only up to a 1/8-in. gap around electrical boxes, so you can’t cut the holes extra large. You have to fill larger gaps with setting compound. And if the gap gets too large, you’ll have to tape it as well because the outlet cover plate won’t hide it. (I’ve seen it many times!)

To assure accuracy in measuring, keep the tape measure level for horizontal distances and plumb for vertical distances. Even holding the tape at a slight angle will cause slight errors in measurements that will cause problems later. Photos 1 – 3 show the hole cutting technique. When you’re sawing the hole, cut at a slight angle to make the back of the opening larger (Photo 1).

The opening will be easier to slip over the box and you’ll be less likely to break out corners. Also, score and break the fourth side with your utility knife. It’s cleaner and easier than sawing, and you’re less likely to damage the hole edges.

Hang the sheet with just enough screws to hold it in place, keeping the screws well away from electrical boxes. Then gently push the drywall into place around each box. If the opening doesn’t slip past the box, use a utility knife to carve away the sides until the drywall fits (Photo 4). Then finish screwing off the drywall sheet.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools] Circle cutter

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

Chances are you’ve seen paper and fiberglass mesh drywall tape on the shelves of your local home improvement store. What’s the difference? To help you choose the better tape for your application, we’ll look at three factors: adhesion, strength/flexibility and moisture resistance.

Adhesion

Mesh drywall tape has a tacky backing, allowing it to stick to the wall on its own. Paper tape needs to be embedded in a layer of joint compound. This makes mesh tape easier for the average DIYer to install on a flat length of wall.

Most paper tape also comes with a factory crease in the center. This allows the installer to fold the tape in half, forming a right angle that makes it extremely easy to cover inside or outside corners.

It’s possible to fold mesh tape, but it’s easy to get off center if done by hand. To apply mesh tape on corners, use a specialty mesh tape corner applicator and hit it with setting compound immediately. Of course, metal-reinforced paper tape makes for an even easier installation process and a resilient corner!

Strength and Flexibility

Hold both kinds of tape in your hand and you might think they bend the same. But the paper tape firms up dramatically after being embedded in mud, a little like papier-mâché.

This added strength makes paper tape an especially good choice for butt joints. If you prefer mesh tape, skip the standard joint compound and use a setting mud, which dries firmer and provides additional strength.

Moisture Concerns

Mesh tape, being fiberglass, is more mold-resistant than paper tape. For this reason, it’s a good choice for bathrooms, backsplashes and any location that might be exposed to water.

Also, don’t forget to use an approved fiberglass tape when preparing backer board for a tile installation.

Conclusion

In general, paper drywall tape is slightly stronger and more versatile, but mesh tape has a more manageable learning curve and better moisture resistance. It comes down to personal preference: Use the tape you’re most comfortable with.

Tools for Drywall Taping

Day 1

On the first day of taping and mudding drywall, have these tools on hand:

• • 6-inch taping knife
  • Staple gun with 1-inch staples

Is this a good deal?

At first glance, $46.50 seems a pretty fair price for a Tilt Arbor Saw (aka table saw). But never forget to read the fine print, which in this case casually states that the saw comes “less extensions, switch and motor.” No motor? We’re guessing there were at least a few unboxing disappointments with this table saw.

But 15 million pounds of drywall is produced in the U.S. every year. Most of it goes on walls, but around 15 percent is leftover waste. What should be done with it?

Recycle It

Drywall is essentially gypsum (calcium sulfate) and water spread on paper backing and kiln-fired in 4-ft. x 8-ft. (or 10-ft. or 12-ft.) sheets. Calcium sulfate is a natural mineral with beneficial properties in your lawn or garden soil. It’s also reclaimable; a portion of the drywall sheets you buy at the home center is likely derived from recycled drywall.

But few if any curbside recycling programs allow drywall. That means you need to do some legwork if you’re a recycling advocate. It is possible, though. Inquire about bulky materials via a recycling clearinghouse such as 1-800-RECYCLING.

Repurpose It

You can also re-purpose drywall by peeling off the paper. Just start at one corner and pull; it comes off pretty easily. Then crush the gypsum back into powder form and spread it on your garden or lawn. Gypsum can help improve soil structure and reduce erosion.

Compost It

You can also add crushed drywall with the paper backing removed to your compost bin. Be aware, though, that decomposing drywall gypsum is notoriously smelly.

Save It

If you are a DIYer, it makes sense to keep a few usable scraps of drywall around for repairs. Otherwise, you’ll end up buying an entire 4 x 8 sheet for a relatively small fix. If you are a creative type, know the paper backing on drywall takes paint well. You can use drywall as a canvas for your artwork.

Unless you can recycle or repurpose it, it’s best to get rid of leftover drywall. Garbage haulers generally will take it if it’s broken down and bagged up. If you are keeping some, store it in a dry space, since drywall (expect for the special mold-resistant kind) is a hospitable host for mold and mildew.

Regular

Regular (gray) drywall is the most common type of drywall and it’s the only kind many people are familiar with. All drywall has one thing as its core—gypsum, a common mineral found globally. In regular drywall, and most other types as well, gypsum is sandwiched between two layers of paper. There is paper on the back (usually brown) and the face, which, in the case of regular drywall, is gray. Regular drywall can be used throughout a house and comes in a number of dimensions—the most common size is a 4-foot by 8-foot sheet. And, as the most common type of drywall, it is also the cheapest, selling for about $12 per 4-foot by 8-foot sheet, depending on where you live. Just getting started with a drywall project? Here are some of our best tips to help you install it right.

Photo 1: No power saws for this step

Probe with a nail to find the framing on either side of the breakout. Mark the cut between the framing, then make those two cuts until you hit the framing. Then cut alongside the framing at the sides.

Photo 2: Patch the hole

Screw 3/4-in.-thick cleats to the sides of the trusses and replace or repair the vapor barrier. Then patch in a fresh piece of drywall.

Photo 3: Reapply texture

Wet the drywall repair texture on the edges of your patch and allow it to soak in for several minutes before you scrape. Tape the joints and then reapply texture.

We’re not going to ask how you managed to step through your living room ceiling. But we can tell you that pros fix that mistake quite often, charging several hundred dollars to patch the hole and retexture it. But you can learn how to patch a textured ceiling yourself for a lot less. You’ll have to paint the entire ceiling afterward, and even then the patched area won’t match perfectly; even a pro can’t achieve that. Perfection calls for scraping off and retexturing the entire ceiling after the patch is complete.

How to repair hole in ceiling

You’ll only need a small piece of drywall and a couple of scraps of any 3/4-in.-thick wood or plywood, plus standard taping supplies and materials in order to know how to fix a hole in the ceiling. And you’ll need to rent a texture gun. But first, scrape off a small sample of your texture material and find a match for it at a home center. If it doesn’t carry it, try a local drywall supplier.

Start by cutting out the damaged area (Photo 1). Avoid cutting the vapor barrier, or reseal it with red moisture barrier tape if you do. Screw backer boards above the unsupported drywall ends of the enlarged hole and install the new patch (Photo 2).

Mist water over the surrounding ceiling texture in an area about 24 in. out from the patch to soften it so you can scrape it off to prep for the taping work (Photo 3). Then tape, mud and skim-coat the entire patch. Sand it smooth and you’re ready to spray.

How to texture drywall patch

Rent a professional spray texture gun and practice on scrap drywall or cardboard. Apply a light coat of texture and add more in stages until you get a match. Lightly blend it into the existing texture.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools] You’ll also need a mister and a spray texture gun

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

A guide to smooth walls

Tape drywall like a pro

Each coat of joint compound is a different color in this article so you can easily see the order of application.

Taping drywall can be a frustrating, gut-wrenching experience. Nagging flaws will show up right after painting and even months later. Nail pops, corner-bead cracks and bad joints will plague your walls forever.

To make your next taping job more successful, we’ve come up with a novice-friendly guide for getting good results and how to mud drywall. We’ve simplified professional techniques so you can learn them easily and recommended the basic tools and materials you’ll need to achieve smooth, flat walls ready for paint.

Since 90 percent of the cost of a professional job is labor, taping your walls yourself can save you several hundred dollars, even on small jobs. The key is a methodical, step-by-step approach with the proper tools and materials. Otherwise, taping will drive you nuts.

We’ll show you how to avoid the most common rookie mistake: heaping on drywall mud and then counting on a massive (and filthy) sanding effort at the end to rectify mistakes. We’ll also show you how to gradually build up layers, feather edges to avoid ridges and knock off high areas of freshly applied mud.

We’ve added a color to each coat of drywall mud to make it easier to see the proper order of application. The first coat is orange, the second green and the third yellow.

Buy or Rent These Taping Tools, also Called Drywall Mud Tools

You’ll find a mind-boggling assortment of gimmicky taping tools at home centers. The truth is, most aren’t worth having and you can do an excellent job with just the ones we recommend. Banjos (Photos 5 and 6) and clinchers (Photo 3) can speed up and improve the job. They’re a must for larger rooms with lots of corners. But for small jobs, skip the banjo, and if you only have a few corner beads to do, nail them on by hand and skip the clincher too.

1. Four-inch flexible putty knife (Photo 7) for small filling jobs and applying second- and third-coat mud to angles (inside corners).
2. Six-inch flexible putty knife (Photo 2) for larger filling jobs, embedding tape and filling fastener holes.
3. “Potato masher” mixer (Photo 5) for hand-mixing a bucket of mud quickly and thoroughly.
4. Mud pan (Photo 2) for convenient dispensing of patching, fastener hole and corner mud.
5. A clincher (Photo 3) makes quick work of crimping corner beads accurately in place to hold them for nailing.
6. A 12-in. trowel is less fatiguing and easier to use for applying mud to the joints and corner beads than the standard wide taping knives.
7. A banjo is essential for all but the smallest taping jobs for dispensing mud saturated tape right onto the drywall joints.

Buy the Old-Fashioned, Time-Tested Materials—They’re What Pros Use

Just as with drywall mud tools, there are many new drywall products on the market purporting to make taping easier. But talk to a pro and you’ll find that few of them work any better or are any more durable than the old-fashioned taping supplies like paper tape and 1-1/4 in. solid metal corner beads.

Pick up enough corner beads to cover every corner with a single bead—no splicing!—plus one or two extras to replace mistakes. You’ll also need a small box of 1-5/8 in. drywall nails for fastening the corner beads. One roll of paper tape is usually plenty for the average-sized room, but they’re only a couple of bucks, so get two in case you come up short.

Spend the time on the prep work; it’ll pay off in the end

Remove broken or loose drywall

Score the paper around broken corners, blisters or other damaged areas in the drywall with a utility knife. Peel the paper away and remove any broken or loose gypsum core. Lightly sand rough paper and scored edges with a sanding sponge.

Taping Drywall Tips: How to Tape Drywall Joints

Learn and Master the Basics

Before we get too far into the hacks and tricks, let’s pause a moment to make sure we all understand the basics of marking for a cut. It’s always best practice to mark the board where the saw will make it’s first contact. For a circular saw, that’s usually at the edge of the board, while a miter saw cut should be marked in the middle of the board. When possible, mark with a ‘V’ to reduce the chances of favoring one side of the line or the other. Check out this video on marking a board before cutting with a miter saw.

Close-up: sprayer and hopper

The crucial components of a spray gun.

Textures add an entirely new dimension to flat, smooth walls. Instead of a blank slate, you’ll have a surface that will attract attention, add visual interest and warm the room with an earthy, organic feel. This technique also helps hide minor imperfections, making it a great way to meld remodeled walls with existing ones—no small bonus to those of us still perfecting our drywall-taping skills!

Applying a knockdown texture is an easy, low-cost, low-tech project that can dramatically change a room’s appearance and simplify wall repairs. The name comes from one of the final steps in the project when you use a wide knife to knock down and flatten the peaks of the texture applied to the walls. This step gives the texture its stucco-like appearance. To texture the walls and ceiling of an average room, the rental sprayer, the joint compound and knockdown knife will set you back only about $70 to $80, and you’ll be finished in one day. These are the three components you’ll use:

Joint compound
To make this project as easy as possible, use premixed all-purpose joint compound. These buckets contain about 60 lbs. of “mud” and are available at most home centers for $9 to $10 each. Don’t use the lightweight premixed compounds—you’ll be paying for a lot of air and the mix won’t be as “sticky” as the all-purpose. It generally takes 1-1/2 to two full buckets of mud to texture the walls and ceiling of an average size (12 x 12-ft.) room.

Knockdown knives
Traditionally, knockdown textures were done with flat trowels or wide steel taping knives. However, the trowel technique is hard to master. A much better choice is to use one of the flexible Lexan knockdown knives now available at drywall supply stores (see Photo 5). These knives are 18 to 24 in. wide and cost $15 to $18.

Acoustical sprayer and gun.
You’ll need to rent an acoustical spray gun, hopper and compressor from a rental center or paint store for this project. Although home compressors work fine for the initial orange peel coat, they won’t produce the volume of air you need for the heavier topcoat.

Expect to pay $25 to $30 for a one-day rental. While you’re still at the rental store, be sure to put the machine through a dry run to be certain it works. Also, remove the hopper from the gun and make sure the inside of the gun is clean. Look for a trigger adjustment on the gun It allows you to control the fluid flow. The recipes in this article will give you the just-right mixes for your project.

Apply the texture

Photo 1: Mask off everything you don’t want textured

Mask your windows and doors with plastic sheeting. Then cover remaining trim, outlets and light fixture bases (remove glass covers) with masking tape. Cover your floors with a heavy canvas or multiple layers of those bed sheets you haven’t had the heart to get rid of. Don’t use plastic sheeting on the floor or your work area will become a skating rink.

Photo 2: Add water to the joint compound and mix it

Thin the joint compound, or “mud,” with water. Use a blade mixer mounted to a variable-speed 1/2-in. drill (most mixers are too large for 3/8-in. drills). You can also mix the mud by hand with a 5-gal. paint stirring stick (available free at paint stores). Scoop half of a full bucket of unthinned mud into an empty 5-gal. bucket and add the correct amount of water to both buckets. Hug the bucket firmly with your feet and stir. After the initial stirring, scrape the sides and bottom with a stick or your hand and stir again. The second stirring helps remove thicker clumps that can clog the spray gun.

Photo 3: Spray on the base coat

Spray an orange peel base coat on the walls and ceilings. This step will help blend areas where new walls meet old, allow consistent drying for the topcoat, and act as a background for the final texture. Hold the gun about 30 to 36 in. from the surface. Starting in a corner, spray the ceiling first, working in grids sized according to what you can comfortably reach from a stationary position. On the walls, work from side to side and from top to bottom. Let the orange peel coat dry (three to eight hours).

Photo 4: Apply the top coat

Apply the topping coat using the same techniques you used to spray on the base coat but with different gun settings and mud consistency. If possible, practice in the closet or on a spare piece of drywall before moving to the main area. Hold the gun a bit farther from the surface, up to 48 in. The splats should be 1/2 in. to 1-1/2 in. in diameter. Finish spraying the entire room before going to the “knockdown” step. After you apply the first coat, spray on a quick second coat to help even out slight differences.

Photo 5: Knock down the top coat

Knock down the topping coat with an 18- or 24-in. Plexiglas knife and light pressure after the mud has set up for 10 to 15 minutes. Start in the closet until you get the feel of the knife and the effect you want. Knock it down in the same order you applied it. On the ceiling, knock down in a direction across the joists or framing. This helps compensate for unevenness of the ceiling. On the walls, start at the top and bring the knife two-thirds of the way down, then start at the bottom and bring the knife up to finish off the knockdown.

Photos 1 to 5 show how to apply the knockdown texture.

Dealing with textured ceilings

Scrape a textured ceiling with a drywall knife

Round the corners on a drywall knife and use it to scrape the texture off acoustical or popcorn ceilings.

If you have acoustical or popcorn ceiling texture, remove it by spraying it with water, letting it soak in for a minute, and then carefully scraping it off with a drywall knife. Wear goggles and a cap. To minimize accidental gouging of the drywall, round off the corners of the knife with metal snips and remove burrs with a smooth-face file. If your ceiling texture has been painted, you won’t be able to scrape it clean. You may need to skim-coat the surface.

Painting a textured surface

Paint a textured surface the way you would new drywall. Let the “mud” dry completely. As it dries, it will release tremendous amounts of moisture. You’ll feel as if you’re standing in an Iowa cornfield in July. If it’s warm enough outside, cut through the masking on your windows and open them, but leave the masking tape in place until the surface dries. If you have some box fans, use them to help speed the drying.

After the walls and ceiling dry, check the surface for any spots you missed knocking down or any ridges you raised with the corner of the knife. With 120-grit sandpaper and a sanding block, sand these high spots down. Begin painting with a high-quality primer applied with a 3/8-in. nap paint roller. On the first coat, avoid going over surfaces before they’re completely dry. The mud is water soluble and painting too soon can cause you to peel up a thin layer of mud with the paint.

For the final paint coat, use a high quality latex paint and a 3/8-in. nap roller. An “eggshell” or “satin” finish emphasizes the depth of the texture.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools] Mixing paddle, acoustical sprayer and gun (rental), Lexan knockdown knife.

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

Dampen a special drywall sponge and smooth out flaws in your final coat of compound. You may be tempted to use MDF (medium density fiberboard) on walls rather than drywall to avoid the dust when sanding the joint compound. Indeed, MDF would make a nice, smooth wall surface, and it’s often used for painted panels in wainscoting. It’s much more dimensionally stable than wood. But it still moves. Relative humidity fluctuations could cause a 4-ft. panel to expand and contract as much as 1/8 in. This would open a crack somewhere, even if you glued and splined the edges of panels to one another.

20 Tips for Working with Drywall

Corner Knife

This handy lightweight tool from Edward Tools has saved me from reworking those tricky corners more than once. It’s small, easy to work with and (with a bit of practice) helps you achieve pro-quality corners. We’ll show you how to hang drywall like a pro, too. 

Get it on Amazon now.