Multi-Level Patio with Water Feature

A backyard waterfall and stream will add beauty and peaceful sounds to your patio. In addition to a water feature, this multi-level poured-concrete patio designs from Goodmanson Construction has plenty of low-maintenance landscaping to add splashes of color.

Photo: Courtesy of Goodmanson Construction

Here’s our list of luxurious multi level decks with sweeping views and multiple seating areas.

Slice Through Metal With an Arc Blade

Lenox has a curved recip blade in its diverse lineup of tool blades. The curve helps change the angle of attack on every stroke, which speeds up cutting. It’s similar to the orbital action on many reciprocating saws. These blades are not intended for precise scrollwork—they’re most useful when you have a whole bunch of aggressive cuts to make. Lenox Gold Power Arc Curved Blades are available online.

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Curb appeal

A shabby stoop can crush a home’s overall curb appeal. And while building concrete steps is more complicated than pouring a simple sidewalk, it’s probably not as hard as you might think. We spent the day with the masons at Above Quality Inc., and they showed us how they pour concrete steps that look great and will last for decades. They gave us simple step-by-step instructions that even a beginner could follow and some great tips that long-time pros will appreciate.

Don’t Drill too Close to Edges

Two mistakes you really want to avoid are busting off a chunk of a concrete stair step and cracking the corner of a patio slab. To avoid these disasters, don’t drill any closer than 4 in. from the edge. If there’s no other option, turn off the hammering action on the drill. Also, avoid wedge-type anchors. They exert a ton of outward pressure, which could literally “wedge” the concrete apart.

Cover Up Air Ducts

Spray foam really is a magical tool for household insulation. Although fiberglass has been commonly use for insulation, spray foam can actually outperform it. Plus, with so many ways you can use expanding foam, this material certainly is handy. Now only if it could help us out with all of those concrete problems…

Oh wait, it actually can!

Demilec, a company located in Texas, has invented a type of insulation foam that can help all of the cracks and uneven pavement problems. Geolift can help to lift existing concrete surfaces and fix those problem areas around your house with much less labor. Geolift works for driveways, sidewalks, patios, garage floors, even pool decks. And yes, it is a foam, just like your beloved spray foam!

Geolift works in three steps. The first step is to drill holes in the problem concrete. Holes should be no less than six inches away from the edge of the concrete.

Once the holes have been set, the Geolift is injected in between the concrete and the dirt. The foam will fill up the parts of the concrete that are uneven and will raise it to the proper height.

After the Geolift has done its’ magical work, the last thing left to do is patching up the holes. Patch up the holes with concrete, and your new driveway (or sidewalk, or walkway) will look good as new.

Not only will this magical foam help to meet codes and comply with your insurance, but the actual product is great for the environment. Geolift is made with 11 percent recyclable products (such as plastic and soy beans) and uses zero-ODP blowing agents.

Unfortunately, Geolift isn’t something you can just go buy at a store. But you can contact Demilec for all the parts and equipment you need. It may sound pricey, but trust us; it’s going to make you look rich after comparing the prices of normal concrete demolition and renovation.

How to build a concrete wall prep work: Materials, tools and site

The wall we built was a weekend-long project and an exhausting one at that. It took a day to rip out the old, collapsing retaining wall, to dig farther into the hill to provide room for the backfill gravel and to help unload materials. It took another day to install the base, blocks and backfill.

Before launching into this concrete retaining wall project, contact your local building code official. Depending on the height and location of your wall, there may be structural, drainage and setback (the distance from the wall to property line) considerations. A permit may be required.

Unless you own a heavy-duty truck (and back!), have your blocks, compactable base gravel, sand and backfill gravel delivered. Blocks may cost slightly more at specialty landscaping stores than at home centers, but landscaping stores are often better equipped to deliver the small batches of base, sand and gravel that you’ll need for installing the concrete retaining wall blocks. rolling yard.

Learn about choosing retaining wall material here.

The Versa-Lok brand retaining wall system we installed uses nylon pins to align and secure horizontal rows of 80-lb. blocks. Other block systems use lips, gravity and filled cores to connect rows and increase strength. Your system may differ, but most of the preparation and installation steps remain the same.

We used a transit level to establish a flat base. But unless you own or rent one and know how to use it properly, just use a 4-ft. level taped to a long, straight 2×4, especially for short walls. The tamper, brick tong and block chisel are available at rental yards.

How to Build a Concrete Wall Figure A: Cross-Section of a Retaining Wall

A cinder block retaining wall is only as straight and solid as the base it’s built on. For a 4-ft. tall wall, excavate a trench deep enough to accommodate 4 to 6 in. of compacted base, 1 in. of leveling sand and half the height of the first course of blocks. Step succeeding courses back 3/4 in., overlap vertical joints at least 4 in. and secure one row to the next with pins. Backfill with crushed rock, except for the top, where you should install a 6-in. “cap” of native soil to help keep surface water from entering the rock-filled trench. Use concrete adhesive to secure the cap blocks.

Every manufacturer and consultant we contacted stressed the absolute necessity of starting with a solid, level and well-compacted base. Failure to do this will result in a weak, wavy wall. Bear in mind: If your wall is higher than 4 ft., most concrete block manufacturers require extra engineering and installation steps not shown here. These steps range from using special reinforcement fabric to installing a series of terraces rather than one tall wall. Most manufacturers provide good printed installation guidelines. If you purchase your concrete retaining wall blocks from a specialty landscape center, there may be an onsite designer or engineer to help you.

• Before getting started, contact local utility companies to mark the location of underground wires and pipes. Telephone and cable TV wires are often buried just beneath the surface.
• In the Midwest, the compactable base material is often referred to as “Class V” (as in the Roman numeral for five). In other regions, the rock may vary and the material may go by a different name. The important quality of the material is its different-sized rock and sand particles that interlock and compact to create a solid base. It’s the same material used beneath road beds and paver patios. Make sure you use the right stuff. It’s NOT the same as the crushed gravel you use for backfill.
• The 16-in. wide x 12-in. deep x 6-in. high blocks we installed weigh 80 lbs. each. A brick tong doesn’t make them lighter, but it does make them less clumsy to handle, easier to position and less likely to crush fingers.
• If your wall borders a sidewalk or deck, you may need a code compliant rail. Contact your local building code department.

Caution: Silica dust can damage your lungs. Always wear a respirator when you’re drilling or cutting concrete or masonry.

What’s the Difference Between a Hammer Drill and a Rotary Hammer?

Hammer Drills

Hammer drills often come as a combination driver with a drill, drive and hammer setting. In the hammer setting, a pair of grooved discs rotate, making the chuck slam forward and back as the chuck rotates. This hammering force makes the drill bit chip into the concrete as it spins.

More pressure, more progress

When you’re using a hammer drill, more force equals faster progress. But watch out, these bits can break — ease up if it starts to bend!

Dial in the RPM

With a hammer drill, I find that slower RPM (revolutions per minute) means slower drilling, while higher RPM doesn’t mean faster drilling. The sweet spot for me is medium-high RPM. My hammer drill has two speed settings, so I use the high setting and nudge the speed up until I find that sweet spot where the bit proceeds at a steady pace.

Rotary Hammers

Rotary hammers are the hammer drill’s big brother. The motor rotates the bit and moves a piston back and forth, which gives the tool more pounding power. Many rotary hammers are multifunctional, adding drill and hammer to the basic rotary hammer function, making them far more useful.

If you have lots of drilling to do, a rotary hammer will cut your labor considerably. You can buy a rotary hammer starting at about $100.

Let the tool do the work

Unlike with a hammer drill, you don’t need to put your weight behind a rotary hammer. Too much force reduces the effectiveness of the piston motion. Apply just enough pressure to make steady progress.

My Go-To Concrete Fasteners

You’ll find a dozen fastener choices at the hardware store, all suited to different tasks. The most important thing is to drill the proper hole size for your fasteners.

Concrete Screw

I choose concrete screws for most fastening jobs because they’re easy to use, strong and removable. They range in diameter from 3/16-in. to 3/4-in., and in length from 1-1/4-in. to 6-in.

Pro Tip: An impact driver is my go-to tool for driving concrete screws. It’s the only way to go!

Plastic Anchor

Plastic anchors work the same in concrete as they do in drywall — press the anchor into the hole and it expands for a snug fit as you drive a screw into it. Plastic anchors are the cheapest option. They’re best for light-duty tasks like hanging small pictures and shelf brackets.

Sleeve Anchor

Used for heavy-duty fastening or hanging, sleeve anchors are permanent, really strong and less expensive than large concrete screws. They can be used in any concrete or masonry and have either a screw head or a nut to tighten. The sleeve expands as you tighten the nut for a firm grip.

Wedge Anchor

Wedge anchors provide the strongest connection for demanding jobs like fastening structural hardware to concrete. Hammer the anchor into the hole, then turn the nut to lock the anchor in place. Don’t use wedge anchors in brick, block or mortar joints. The force may cause cracking.

Concrete Fastening Tips From the Jobsite

Go deep

Drill your hole at least 1/4-in. deeper than the length of your fastener (1/2-in. deeper for fasteners 3/8-in. or larger in diameter). This ensures that your fastener won’t bottom out because of dust or other debris in the hole. If your drill doesn’t have a depth gauge, wrap a tape flag around the drill bit so you know how deep to go.

Fix a strip-out

So you’ve drilled your hole and for some reason your fastener doesn’t grab. Before throwing in the towel, try these options:

• Add a Wire. Push a copper wire into the hole, then drive your concrete screw.
• Drill a Bigger Hole. Upsize the hole and drive in a bigger fastener. You may also need to drill out the hole in the parts you’re fastening.

Shoot nails into concrete

If you have a lot of concrete fastening to do, consider a powder-actuated tool. It uses a gunpowder load to shoot a special nail into concrete. It’s the quickest masonry fastener available and costs as little as $25. Before you use one, go to familyhandyman.com and search for “powder actuated tool” to get the full story.

Control the dust

Concrete contains crystalline silica, which can lead to serious health issues. Always wear a respirator when drilling into concrete, but don’t stop there. A vacuum nozzle close to the action prevents most of the dust from ever going into the air.

Fasten faster with a bit kit

To speed up drilling and driving, use a special kit like this Bulldog Anchor Drive Installation Kit by Bosch. Many brands make a similar installation tool; this one costs about $40. It slips over an SDS (slotted drive shaft) bit, letting you drill and drive fasteners.

If you hit a hard spot, move on

When you’re drilling concrete, sometimes you’ll hit something that the bit can’t easily penetrate, typically a rock or rebar. Sometimes you can work through it, but it’s best to try a different spot. Even if you get through it, your fastener will hit it too and likely shear off as you’re driving it.

Drill wood with a masonry bit?

When fastening wood to masonry, some people drill through wood with a standard bit, then switch to a masonry bit. Switching isn’t worth the hassle. A masonry bit isn’t the best for wood, but it will do the job without harming the bit.

Clean out the hole

When you drill a hole, dust settles to the bottom and clings to the sides of the hole. The dust could keep your fastener from embedding all the way or cause a sleeve or wedge slip. Use a vacuum and a copper fitting brush to remove all the dust.

Stay away from the edge

A good rule of thumb is to keep an anchor away from an edge a distance of at least 12 times the diameter of the anchor. For example, a 1/4-in. anchor requires a minimum distance of three inches from an edge. Don’t use a wedge anchor in this situation — its outward force could cause a blowout.

Do I fasten to mortar or the block/brick?

Drill into mortar if you’re hanging a picture frame or lightweight holiday decorations. Mortar is a lot easier to drill into. It’s more prone to crumbling, but it’s easier to patch. When you’re hanging heavier objects like a TV, it’s better to fasten directly to the brick or block. The material is harder but still brittle, so avoid wedge anchors.

For a smoother ride, use a four-cutter bit

Two-cutter bits work fine, but four-cutter bits are better. Four-cutter bits are available at home centers for about 20 percent more than two-cutter bits. Four-cutter bits last longer, cut smoother and easier and are less likely to twist the drill out of your hand if you hit a hard rock or rebar.

Don’t bother with masonry nails

You’ll likely still find a dusty box of masonry nails tucked away at the hardware store. Leave it there. Masonry nails aren’t up to the standards of newer fasteners and anchors, and they require more effort than concrete screws.

Clear the flutes

The bit’s flutes carry dust up and out of the hole as you drill, but they can get clogged. When they do, the bit spins without making any progress. To release the dust buildup, just pull the bit out of the hole while it’s spinning. I typically do this every inch or so of depth.

You can’t scrub oil and grease stains away. The trick is to draw them up out of the concrete with trisodium phosphate (or a TSP substitute), water and an absorbent material.

Patience is the key. Old, long-neglected stains may require two or three applications for complete removal. And even then, some stains might still show, or the freshly cleaned area might look slightly different from the surrounding concrete.

Mix Up an Absorbent Solution

• Pour 1 ounce of trisodium phosphate (or TSP substitute) and a cup of water into a small bucket and mix.
• Add about a cup of absorbent material and mix to make a creamy paste.
  • Pro tip: Wear eye protection and rubber gloves.

New products are constantly making DIY projects faster, easier and cheaper. Introducing these products is and always has been part of our mission. In fact, many of the most important advances were first publicized in Family Handyman. Here are a few of our favorite DIY breakthroughs.

What Is the Recipe for Concrete?

Most people say “cement” and “concrete” interchangeably. But they’re not the same thing. Cement is just one of the ingredients in concrete, and if you ask for cement at the lumberyard, you might get a bag of actual Portland cement.

Aside from cement, concrete contains sand and stones. Those stones, or “aggregate,” are a carefully measured mix of various sizes. Small stones fill in the gaps between larger ones, and sand fills in between them. Cement is the glue that holds it all together.

According to the latest data from the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, the construction industry added 16,000 new jobs in August 2020. Residential construction employment added 25,000 new jobs, counteracting a 16,000 job decline in nonresidential specialty trade contractors.

“Construction is becoming a tale of two sectors, as homebuilding and limited nonresidential niches thrive but most other private, as well as public, construction shrinks,” said Ken Simonson, chief economist for the Associated General Contractors of America (AGC).

“These employment numbers are in line with our survey, which found a plurality of construction firms expect it will take more than six months before their volume of business matches year-ago levels.”

Historically high levels of demand for housing this past summer boosted the home building industry and created a bright spot in the construction industry overall. It’s been a busy season for residential construction. That the industry continues to add jobs even in late summer is a positive sign that these levels of activity are likely to continue.

“[This] report indicates that America’s nascent economic recovery remains fully in place,” said Anirban Basu, chief economist for the Associated Builders and Contractors (ABC). “The big news was that the nation’s rate of unemployment declined to 8.4 percent, even as more people reentered the job market, which was due in part to a cessation of a sizable federal supplement to state unemployment insurance benefits.”

Construction employment in August remained 425,000 jobs lower than its most recent peak last February. The overall industry unemployment rate sat at 7.6 percent, more than double what it was at the same time last year.

“There is a lot that Washington officials can do to help boost demand for construction projects and get more people back to work rebuilding the economy,” said Stephen E. Sandherr, chief executive officer of the AGC. “The challenge is that the coronavirus has put many contractors in the position of looking for work and workers at the same time.”

Concrete Pools

Concrete or cement pools are built from a reinforced concrete, wood or steel shell that’s poured or sprayed with cement, which is then plastered and painted.

Pros of concrete pools:

• Extremely durable. Can last for decades with proper pool maintenance;
• Can be resurfaced rather than replaced;
• Can be customized to virtually any shape, size and depth;
• Customizable features include waterfalls, infinity edges, zero entry and attached spas.

Cons of concrete pools:

• Cost. They’re the most expensive type of in-ground pool to install;
• More costly to maintain than other types of pools;
• Installation takes longer than other types of pools, typically eight to 12 weeks;
• Can crack due to soil movement or earthquakes.

Fiberglass Pools

These are pre-formed pool “shells” placed into an excavated hole in your yard. While pool buyers were once limited to a few basic shapes, there is now a much wider variety of fiberglass pool forms.

Pros of fiberglass pools:

• Easiest and fastest to install of all in-ground pools;
• Cheaper to install than a concrete pool;
• Fewer chemicals and maintenance than other types of in-ground pools.

Cons of fiberglass pools:

• Harder to customize. Buyers are usually limited to the existing shapes and designs of available pool shells;
• Must be delivered in one piece, limiting their size;
• Faulty installation can result in major complications and costly repairs;
• Must have enough yard access for a crane to lower the pool shell into place. The area also needs to be free of overhead utility wires.

Vinyl Pools

Vinyl or vinyl-liner pools are made by attaching a heavy-duty vinyl liner to an in-ground frame, which may be made of plastic, steel or reinforced concrete.

Pros of vinyl pools:

• Least expensive type of in-ground pool;
• They can be customized, more so than fiberglass pools, although not with the range of shapes and features as concrete pools;
• Faster to install than concrete pools;
• Vinyl liners come in multiple textures and colors, including sand or mosaic effect.
• Vinyl pools won’t crack from soil settlement or earthquakes.

Cons of vinyl pools:

• The vinyl liner can tear, resulting in costly repairs. Experts recommend spending more money on a heavy-duty liner;
• Vinyl is the least durable of all types of in-ground pools;
• Vinyl liner pools can harbor algae, and sun creams can stain the liner at the water level.

It’s also important to know most pool contractors specialize in just one of these types of in-ground pools, not all three.

Naturally, they’ll try to convince you the type of pool they install is superior to the others. If you’re undecided, speak to multiple contractors of these different pool types. Get estimates. Consider what you want out of a backyard pool and how long you plan to keep your current home. If possible, speak to other homeowners who’ve installed these different types of in-ground pools and ask them to discuss pros and cons.

An in-ground pool is a major investment, for your wallet and your lifestyle. So do your research to make the most informed decision before you start to dig a hole in your yard!

Getting Started on Building an In-Ground Fire Pit:

Advice From a Masonry Pro:

Doug Montzka, of Montkza Concrete & Masonry in St. Paul, Minn., has been in the concrete and masonry business for 23 years. He’s seen the popularity of fire pits but it’s possible to create a DIY fire pit. “I started getting requests for brick fire pits a few years ago. It isn’t rocket science, but there are a few tricks to doing the job right. A well-built masonry fire pit is rock solid, safe to use, and will easily last for as long as you own your house.”

Set Aside a Few Days

This won’t be the kind of project you can complete in an afternoon. There are a few time-consuming steps that will spread this project out over a few days. First, you’ll have to pour the footing and give it the time to set up. Then you’ll have to mortar the bricks into place.

Before Digging, Call Utility Companies

Before digging out the space for your in-ground fire pit, call your utility companies (dial 811; for more info, go to call811.com) to check the location of buried utility lines.

Also, check the fire pit code in your area. Most require a fire pit to be 25 ft. away from any structures and overhanging trees. Think about how the prevailing winds blow through your backyard.

Mark Out the Fire Pit

The first step to make your own fire pit is to dig out a dedicated space in your yard for the fire pit base. The following are the fire pit dimensions we used for this project.

• A 3-ft.-diameter in ground fire pit creates enough room for a good fire, yet keeps everyone close enough to chat (and complies with most codes).
  • Pro tip: To make measuring the pit and pouring the concrete footing easy, we used two cardboard concrete form tubes (purchased from a concrete supply company).
• You could also make your own forms by screwing together 1/8-in. hardboard. For a non-traditional fire, opt for a smokeless fire pit.
• Rip a 4 x 8-ft. sheet into four 8-in.-wide strips.
• Carefully bend and screw two strips together to create a 36-in.-diameter circle, and use the other two to make a 48-in.-diameter circle.
• Set the larger form in position and spray paint around it. Dig a hole about 8 in. deep and 3 in. larger in diameter than the form.

This patio design is not only stylish but also perfect for someone with limited concrete experience. It’s much more forgiving than a big, continuous slab. On a large slab, a mistake in the form or in finishing can lead to depressions and water puddles. And inadequate base prep can lead to cracking. This segmented design makes those problems much less likely. To complete the look, you add decorative rock between the pavers. Are you ready to take it on? If you have help, you can build this patio in a weekend!

Prep the Site

• Remove any existing sod, giving yourself a little extra room around the edges to make it easier to place the form and screed the concrete.
• Scrape, rake and shovel the patio area to make it as level as possible. Depending on the grade and the finished height of your patio, you may need to add some sand fill.
• Lay out the patio’s footprint with stakes and string. Make sure all the math works out and that the footprint is square.

The Best Mold and Mildew Eliminators

Mold and mildew can grow in many different places, and figuring out the best product to use on surfaces like wood, fabric or concrete can be confusing. When choosing a mold eliminator, look for a product that is safe for the material type in need of cleaning.

Peeling epoxy

Too much moisture causes epoxy paint to crack and pop off.

Photo 1: Prepare a test area

Remove 1/32 in. of the top layer of concrete with an angle grinder and a masonry wheel. Let the area “breathe” for 24 hours before starting the test.

Photo 2: Set up the test

Test for moisture with a calcium chloride dish covered by a plastic dome. When the test is done, cut a hole in the dome and lift the dish straight out so you don’t spill the contents. Seal the dish and mail it back to the manufacturer for results.

When epoxy paint on garage floors peels up prematurely, the problem is most likely caused by too much slab moisture. Unfortunately, the widely used plastic sheeting test (taping a sheet of plastic film to the concrete and checking for condensation droplets after 24 hours) isn’t reliable. A better method is to use calcium chloride–based testing kits (about $40 for the three kits you’ll need).

For the most accurate results, conduct the test during the spring when the soil is damp and low humidity is forecast. Dry air draws moisture up through the concrete, so you’ll be getting “worst case” results that time of year. Place two of the test kits at least 5 ft. away from walls, and the third test kit in the middle of the floor. Follow the surface preparation instructions to the letter. That means you’ll have to grind off about 1/32 in. of concrete to remove any surface sealers or hardening agents (Photo 1). Once you’ve ground off the top layer, use the pH test liquid and strips included in the kit to determine the acidity (pH) level of the freshly exposed concrete. The pH level should be 6.5 to 7. If yours isn’t, check with the paint manufacturer to see if its paint will stick.

If the pH level checks out, leave the test sections open to the garage air for 24 hours before starting the test. Place the calcium chloride dish in the test areas and apply the sealing dome (Photo 2). After the chemical absorbs moisture for 60 to 72 hours, cut openings in the domes and remove and seal the dishes. Then mail them off to the testing lab for analysis (included in the kit price).

The maximum amount of water vapor penetration is 3 lbs. per 1,000 sq. ft. If your results show more than that amount, don’t even consider applying epoxy or any other paint-type coating to your floor. Instead, live with your old boring concrete or consider a snap-together tile floor.

However, if your tests hover around the 3-lb. mark, your results are borderline. Consider calling in a professional testing lab to conduct a more rigid (and accurate) test. Find one online or in the yellow pages under “Testing Laboratories.”

For moisture tests, search online for “calcium chloride moisture tests.”

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools]

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

How to Pour a Concrete Slab For a Garage

It’s a story that’s all too familiar: A hole gets dug, a foundation gets built and there’s a hasty backfill before the asphalt driveway gets installed. Eventually, the asphalt settles, the apron collapses and the new homeowner gets angry (and rightly so). That’s when Glenn Anderson and his crew at Above Quality Inc. show up to rip out the droopy asphalt and install a concrete apron that will last for years.

Glenn has installed scores of aprons in his career. There were 32 on his most recent townhouse project alone. He knows that the best way to keep customers happy and steer clear of callbacks is to reduce movement and avoid cracking. We’ll show you how he gets it done.

Hammer drills and rotary hammers are both excellent for drilling masonry. Rotary hammers are more powerful, though, and have a “hammer-only” mode with no rotation. They usually have an SDS chuck, which is better for hammering.

Sure, you can drill a hole or two in a concrete block with a regular drill and a masonry bit, but you’ll want to step it up a notch if you have a whole bunch of holes to drill into 50-year-old concrete. In this story, we’ll give you the lowdown on the differences between what is a hammer drill and a rotary hammer, and help you figure out which tool is right for you. We’ll also show you some cool bits and accessories and share some useful tips on how to get the most out of these handy tools.

Hammer Drill vs. Rotary Hammer

Hammer drills and rotary hammers (also called rotary hammer drills) both produce a pounding force that makes them extremely efficient at blasting through masonry. As the hammer drill spins, the bit chisels away at the masonry. The mechanical process that delivers this pounding action is what separates the two tools.

Figure A: Inside a Hammer Drill

A hammer drill has two discs that have ridges resembling the ridges on a poker chip (see Figure A). As one hammer drill disc slides past the other, it rises and falls, causing the chuck to slam forward and back. If there is no force on the chuck, the discs are separated by a clutch and the pounding action stops. This saves wear and tear. Many hammer drills can be used as a regular drill by switching off the hammering action.

Figure B: Inside a Rotary Hammer

A rotary hammer creates its pounding action with a piston driven by a crankshaft (see Figure B). The piston rides in a cylinder and creates air pressure when driven forward, and it’s the air pressure that actually drives the hammer mechanism. Rotary hammers provide a lot more impact energy than hammer drills. They’re much more durable and are the preferred tool of the pros. Another big advantage is that most rotary hammers have three settings: drill mode, hammer drill or just hammer, so they can act as a mini jackhammer. Of course, a rotary hammer costs more than a hammer drill, but more on that later.

Hammer Drill Bits

A hammer drill is perfect for light masonry. It works best at drilling holes in bricks, mortar and concrete blocks. But it can also handle the occasional hole in poured concrete.

You don’t need to spend tons of money on hammer drill bits, but more expensive bits are usually equipped with superior carbide tips, and the tips are more securely attached to the shank of the bits, which reduces breakage in heavy use.

Rotary Hammer Bits and Attachments

The most popular type of chuck on the shelves at home centers today is the SDS-Plus. SDS-Plus bits have grooves on the shanks that lock securely into the chuck but allow the bit to move back and forth independently of the chuck. They’re super easy to insert and remove—no tools required. Some of the really big rotary hammers have a similar system, but larger called the SDS-Max. And there are a couple brands that have proprietary systems, so make sure the bit you buy matches the tool you’re using.

When set to hammer mode, rotary hammers can be used for all sorts of jobs, and there are a whole lot of attachments to get those jobs done.

A few of the more popular attachments are shown in the photo:

• Clay spade: Breaks up hard soil.
• Cold chisel: For busting up concrete.
• Tile remover: Works well for pulling up ceramic tiles.
• Bull point chisel: Used to start holes in concrete.
• Scaling chisel: Designed to remove rust, concrete and weld spatter.

If you already own a rotary hammer and are looking for a heavy-duty drill to bore large holes in wood or mix joint compound, consider buying an SDS-Plus chuck adapter (shown in the third photo). This adapter will allow you to use smooth-shank drill bits, hole saws and mixing paddles. Just remember to keep the setting on drill mode or you could destroy the chuck.

Rotary Hammers Are for Larger Jobs

Rotary hammers excel at drilling holes in hardened concrete. A rotary hammer can also be fitted with all sorts of other attachments.

Rotary Hammer Accessories

Rotary hammer accessories include a variety of chisels for scaling metal, breaking concrete, removing the tile and even digging the hard soil. (The one on the left is for an SDS-Max chuck.) You can also add a three-jaw chuck for regular drill bits.

SDS-Plus Chuck Adapter

This adapter will allow you to use smooth-shank drill bits, hole saws and mixing paddles. Just remember to keep the setting on drill mode or you could destroy the chuck.

Learn about 5 more must-have drill accessories here.

Choosing Between a Rebar Bit and Standard Bit

You can spend $50 on a hammer drill that will drill 1/2-in. holes in most masonry, but spending more will get you two things: the ability to drill bigger holes and—more important—faster drilling, which is great when you have lots of holes to drill.

The pounding power of a hammer drill is measured in BPM (beats/blows per minute). But the BPM rating isn’t the whole story: Motor amperage and how the drill feels in your hands are more important. All-metal chucks are more durable than ones with plastic parts. And while keyless chucks are handy on a regular drill, they often don’t have the holding power needed for drilling into masonry. Chuck size often dictates the maximum recommended hole size the drill can handle.

The pounding power of a rotary hammer is measured in pounds of impact energy. When shopping for rotary hammers, more amp power is good, but more impact energy is even more important. Rotary hammers are categorized by the maximum-size hole recommended by the manufacturer, but that doesn’t mean they can’t drill a larger hole once in a while. If you need a drill for nothing but 7/8-in. holes, buy a larger drill that won’t have to work at its maximum capacity all the time.

Cordless Drills

If you already own cordless tools, check to see whether the same company makes a hammer drill or rotary hammer that works with the same batteries. Sometimes you can buy a cordless tool without the battery cheaper than you can buy a corded one.

4 Tips for Drilling Into Concrete

1. Clear the Debris

The flutes on a drill bit are designed to pull up the debris from the hole as you drill, but the best way to clear the hole is to occasionally pull the bit out of the hole as you’re drilling. Less debris in the hole reduces friction, which means smoother drilling, less chance of binding and longer-lasting drill bits.

2. Don’t Push Too Hard

There’s a “sweet spot” where the right rpm combined with the right pressure drills fastest. But you won’t find that sweet spot by pushing down as hard as you can. In fact, too much pressure will slow the drilling process and put a whole lot of unnecessary wear and tear on the motor gears. Plus, you’ll break bits.

3. Avoid Over Drilling

Most hammer drills and rotary hammers are sold with a side handle and depth stop. Do yourself a favor and use them. There’s no reason to burn up both time and bits by drilling deeper holes than you need to. And you don’t always want to drill all the way through a concrete block to its hollow core—some plastic anchors need a back to stop them or they will get pushed right through the hole.

4. Drill a Smaller Hole First

If you need to drill a couple holes that are larger than the recommended capacity of your drill, start with a smaller hole first. This will significantly reduce the load on the drill. Also, smaller bits don’t skate around as much as larger bits do, which is helpful when you need a hole in a precise spot.

Learn some tips for getting the most out of your drill press here.

There once was a time when granite countertops were the ultimate luxury kitchen must-have. Today, homeowners have endless choices when it comes to countertops, from butcher block to marble, soapstone and quartz, and yes, concrete. Concrete countertops can give your kitchen an industrial look that works well in both ultra modern and farmhouse country kitchens alike.

Learn More About Best Modern Cabinet Hardware

Here are 13 countertop choices that aren’t granite!

Check out these 15 super-cool concrete countertops to inspire you.

If you’re leaning towards concrete for your own kitchen countertop material, here are a few concrete countertops pros and cons to consider.

Concrete Countertops Pros and Cons

Pro = Durability

There’s no doubt concrete is rock solid and extremely durable. Concrete countertops will last you a lifetime, if properly sealed and maintained.

Here’s how to make your own outdoor table with a concrete top!

Con = Maintenance

Speaking of maintenance, concrete countertops do require consistent upkeep. You’ll need to regularly reapply sealer and wax to protect the surface of your counters and avoid stains. Spills and messes should be cleaned up right away.

Pro = Customization

Concrete countertops are extremely customizable. They can be formed to fit most counter configurations, and you get to choose the exact color, edge profile and sheen. Custom finishes include marbling and veining, dish draining ridges, and you can choose decorative add-ins, such as stones, colored glass or metal shavings.

Check out these 10 surprising ways to use concrete.

Con = Price

Concrete countertops are hand crafted, which requires a lot of labor, so these countertops are not cheap. The average cost per square foot is $65 to $135. (For comparison, marble countertops cost about $110 to $250 per square foot.) If labor is quoted separately, that can run an additional $40 to $50 per hour, per person. But remember, because concrete countertops are considered a premium material, they will increase the value of your home; so keep that in mind during your countertop selection process.

Here Are 15 Concrete Countertops We Think are Really Cool

If you’re short on time, concrete countertops might not be the best choice. To design, cast and cure, you should plan for a turnaround time to be at least a few weeks. Curing itself can take from three to seven days. And, keep in mind that the more humid the climate where you live, the longer the cure time.

Here Are 10 Unique Kitchen Cabinet Ideas

Here are 10 MORE kitchen countertop ideas!

Buy a Variety of Concrete Screw Lengths

Buy a variety of lengths so you have the correct screw size on hand. Select a screw length to penetrate the concrete at least 1 in. Add 1 in. to the thickness of the material you’re attaching to get the minimum length of screw needed. In hard, dense materials like concrete or stone, this minimum 1-in. screw embedment will work fine. But for maximum strength, use longer screws, up to 1-3/4 in. embedment, in soft brick or other less dense materials. You may have to experiment with a few different lengths to find a screw that you can drive fully and that holds securely.

You’ll find blue concrete screws at home centers, hardware stores and lumberyards, or you can order them by phone or on-line. Screws are available in several lengths in packages of 8 or 25 and in boxes of 100. The more you buy the cheaper the price. A drill bit is usually included in boxes of 25 or more. It’s worth having a couple of screw sizes on hand if you do a lot of projects.

Types of Flower Bed Edging

There are many kinds of edging available—plastic, wood, metal and concrete. Many people like concrete because it never needs to be replaced. If you’re thinking of installing concrete flower bed edging, you have two options. You can pour the edging, which requires trenching, making a form, staking it in place, then pouring and smoothing concrete. This looks great and you can make the edging any width you want. But, it is a lot of work.

Here are the best ways to prevent weeds on flower beds.

An easier and less-expensive alternative is to use precast concrete edging stones, available in a range of styles and sizes. You can get these concrete edgers at a big box store, sometimes for less than a dollar apiece. There are often several colors to choose from, primarily gray and tan, sometimes brick red. Don’t have a truck? Some big box stores will rent one to you.

These are our best tips for a low-maintenance flower bed.

Popular Concrete Flower Bed Edging

One of the most common precast concrete edgers sold is the scalloped edger, which is available in straight or curved designs. Frankly, the design is somewhat dated looking, but you can rectify that by installing the edging upside down so the scalloped portion is below ground. There are other styles as well, including interlocking blocks and faux brick.

How to Install Concrete Flower Bed Edging

Precast concrete flower bed edging stones are easy to install. Lay out the shape of the bed with a rope or garden hose, then use a flat-blade spade to make a trench. Cut into the ground along one side, then face the opposite direction and slice along the other side. Learn how to dig a trench for flower bed edging. Excavate the soil, line the trench with an inch of sand, then install the edging stones one by one. Make sure they’re level, tamping down with a rubber mallet if needed, then backfill.

Lights enhance the look of flower beds. These are some of our favorites.

These are three gardening tools every homeowner needs.

How to Pour a Concrete Slab: The Basics

The bulk of the work for a new slab is in the excavation and form building. If you have to level a sloped site or bring in a lot of fill, hire an excavator for a day to help prepare the site. Then figure on spending a day building the forms and another pouring the slab.

Before! A badly damaged concrete deck slab

This was the ultimate bad patio: severely cracked and cratered, some areas raised by frost, others sunken after 50 years of settling. Originally, it was tiled, then the tile was chiseled off and the pockmarked surface got a coat of paint. Luckily, we’ve got some great outdoor flooring ideas over concrete, starting with building a deck!

A slab with this much damage can’t be fixed. But it can be covered up—and this article will show you how. The results look just like a deck, but getting them is much easier and less expensive than building a deck from scratch. In most cases, this project is also less expensive than a new patio installed by a contractor. Local contractors estimated costs of $7 to $10 per sq. ft. to remove this patio and pour a new slab. You could probably replace your patio yourself for less than the cost of this project, but DIY demolition and concrete pours are big, backbreaking jobs.

Will It Work On Your Patio?

Even if your patio is in terrible shape, you can deck over it. Cracks, craters and seasonal movement along cracks are no problem. But beware of these three situations:

• If an area is badly cracked and sinks noticeably year after year, any decking you put over it will also sink and develop a low spot. In most cases, settling concrete stops sinking eventually, so delay this project until it does.
• This project raises the level of your patio by 2-1/2 to 3-1/2 in. (depending on the thickness of your decking and whether or not you put spacers under the sleepers). So any door thresholds adjoining the patio must be at least that far above the concrete. If not, this project won’t work for you. If you live in a climate where the ground freezes, allow an extra 1/2 in. so that seasonal “frost heave” can raise the slab without damaging the threshold.
• Stairs connected to the patio can complicate this project. To keep step heights equal, you’ll have to raise the treads by the same distance you raise the patio (2-1/2 to 3-1/2 in.). On concrete steps, that’s a straightforward job: You can treat them just like the patio, screwing sleepers to the treads and risers and decking over them.

Building a Patio Deck Over Concrete: Time, Money and Tools

Time: Covering a patio with decking typically takes a weekend or two. This patio took much more time—five long days. That’s partly because it’s a big one (14 x 28 ft.). The grid pattern formed with different-colored decking also added a few hours to the job. But the biggest time factor was the unevenness of the patio surface. All those ridges and sunken spots meant hours of tedious shimming under the sleepers to form a flat surface for the decking (see Photo 3).

Cost: The cost of building a patio deck depends mostly on the decking you choose. Decking ranges from about $1.50 per sq. ft. for treated wood to more than $10 per sq. ft. for a top-grade manufactured product. The other materials for this project add up to about $1.50 per sq. ft., so your total cost could be anywhere from $3 to $12 per sq. ft. For looks and durability, we used two different colors of decking made from PVC, but there are less expensive alternatives.

Tools: Aside from standard carpentry tools, you’ll need a hammer drill for this project. You can get a hammer drill for less than $50 that will do the job. But consider spending $100 or more. Even a very small patio will require more than 50 holes, and a more powerful drill will make that chore a lot easier. Also consider buying an impact driver. Impact drivers pack a lot more torque than standard drills or drivers and will drive concrete screws much better. Most models are cordless, but you can still find inexpensive corded models online.

Materials: Aside from the decking, here’s an estimate of what you’ll need to cover 100 sq. ft. of patio. Exact quantities depend on the shape of your patio and the layout of the decking.

• 90 linear ft. of treated 2×4
• 90 linear ft. of flashing tape
• Sixty 3/16” x 3-1/4” concrete screws
• 1/2”-thick PVC trim or deck fascia (for spacers), plastic shims, 3/16-in. masonry drill bits (minimum drilling depth of 3-1/2 in.)

Brick Walkway Overview

You don’t need heavy equipment and a week of work to lay an attractive and durable walkway. We designed this path, one of our favorite garden path ideas, with bricks for simplicity and ease of construction. It’s made from old street pavers and granite cobbles set on a sand bed. But you can substitute just about any pavers or types of stones that are readily available and fit your landscape. The stone-setting techniques will even accommodate stones of varying thicknesses. You can build this path in about two weekends using a shovel, a wheelbarrow and a few inexpensive hand tools.

We’ll walk you through all the path-building details, from breaking ground to breaking the cobbles to fit tight spots. Usually, the main stumbling block is making the path smooth and flat. To solve that problem, we’ll show you a simple leveling technique using ordinary plastic landscape edging. With this technique, you can lay a top-notch path, even if you’re a novice.

Garden Path and Bench

We integrated a seating area into our pathway. Also, keep in mind that we designed this path for foot traffic and other light use. Don’t try to drive on it. Because the path is set only on sand, it won’t stay as flat and smooth as a traditional paver walk set on a compacted gravel bed. It’s ideal for narrower secondary walks in a garden or backyard, where slight imperfections and undulations add to its character. And if an edge stone gets loose from a wheelbarrow bouncing over it, you can reset it in minutes. Expect to pull an occasional weed growing up in the joints. Or if you prefer an English cottage look, encourage moss or other ground covers to grow in the joints.

Photo 1: Apply contact cement

Spread contact cement on with the applicator or a disposable natural-bristle brush for a laminate countertop adhesive, covering all edges.

Photo 2: Let the glue dry

Keep the two sides separate until the glue is dry but still a little tacky—usually in about 20 minutes.

Photo 3: Join the surfaces

Align and then push the laminate edge back against the particleboard, applying pressure with a smooth block of wood for a good bond.

End caps and other laminate edges sometimes come loose and can get broken off if not reglued, but as long as the particleboard backer is in good condition, the fix is simple. Scrape off chunks of debris or dried lumps of glue from the end cap. If the countertop is newer, first try to iron the end cap back on with a medium-hot iron to reactivate the glue. However, in most cases the loose piece will need to be reattached with contact cement.

Sand rough areas with medium-grit sandpaper, then apply the contact cement (Photo 1). Open nearby windows to dissipate the fumes from the glue. After both sides are completely coated, keep them separated with a toothpick (Photo 2) until the adhesive is tacky. Carefully rejoin the two sides, starting at the back of the glued area (Photo 3). Contact cement bonds instantly, and if the wrong areas accidentally touch, you’ll have great difficulty pulling them apart.

Finally, rub away any dried glue around the edges with your finger.

Note: If your end cap has broken, scrape it off and take a piece to a home center to find a matching replacement piece.

Required Tools for this reglue loose laminate project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools]

Required Materials for this reglue loose laminate project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]

How to Order Concrete

This article explains how to order concrete and concrete slab cost. We’ll use a 10 x 10 ft. slab as an example. Here’s a brief rundown of what you need to know about concrete and concrete prices. For example, how much is a yard of concrete? Find out the cost of concrete per yard below.

In this video we’ll show you how to figure out the amount of concrete you need to order for your project:

How to Calculate the Cost of a Concrete Pour

Amount. Calculate the volume of concrete you need in cubic yards. The formula for cubic yards is this: Multiply the length (10 ft.) by the width (10 ft.) by the depth (.35 ft., or 4 in.) and divide it by 27 (the number of cubic feet in a cubic yard). You get 1.3 cu. yds. Then add 10 percent to allow for spillage and slab depth variations to help determine the concrete cost per yard.

Strength. Call a local ready-mix company, tell the supplier what the concrete is for, and ask about the best mix (proportions of cement, gravel and sand). For a shed, the supplier will probably suggest a mix with a capacity of about 4,000 psi (pounds per square inch). If you live in a region with freeze/thaw cycles in winter, ask for 5 percent air entrainment to help the concrete withstand freeze/thaw damage.

Cost. Cost per cubic yard can range as high as $200 per cubic yard, but concrete slab costs will vary by region and market. Also, there can be fees per load for delivery from a concrete truck for concrete cost. There could be other fees for such things as Saturday concrete truck delivery and small loads. Ask about these fees so you know the total bill before the concrete truck arrives.

Unload time. Ask about the normal concrete truck unload time (usually 7 to 10 minutes per yard) and if there is a fee for overtime. If the concrete truck can’t reach the site, make sure you have two or three people with wheelbarrows ready to go.

Concrete Forms and Pouring

Once you have your concrete ordered and delivered, learn the best method of how to form and pour a concrete slab.

Crumbling masonry joints start out ugly, and then things get uglier fast—bricks come loose, water seeps behind the wall and bees make their homes in the mortar holes. Let it go and the problem won’t go away. In fact, the deterioration will accelerate and you’ll have a much bigger fix on your hands. But you can mend the mortar joints yourself with a process called tuckpointing.

Tuckpointing isn’t difficult or expensive—the only real investment is your time. But you can pick away at it in your free time, area by area.

The steps we show here will work on any brick walls, chimneys and retaining walls. Tuckpointing won’t fix cracking or crumbling bricks, or cracks in walls caused by a shifting foundation. Those problems call for more drastic fixes that we won’t cover here.

Pick up tools and materials

First and foremost, you’ll need an angle grinder with a 4 or 4-1/4 in. diamond blade. Don’t bother renting one unless you only have several feet of bad joints. You can buy an inexpensive model for a few dollars more than the cost of a one-day rental, and even a fairly cheap one will do the trick (unless you’re a serious tool junkie or you have an entire house that needs extensive tuckpointing).

You’ll also need a few simple, inexpensive specialty hand tools that are available at masonry suppliers and some home centers. You’ll need a brick trowel and a tuck pointer. If you have concave mortar joints, you’ll need a masonry jointer that’s the width of your joints. For flat joints, you’ll need a joint raker. If you have just a few areas that need work, use a hammer and cold chisel to knock out the old mortar, but for more extensive work, plan on getting a rotary hammer drill fitted with a flat chisel to make the job go a heck of a lot quicker. You can rent one for a half-day or day. If you have days’ worth of work, rental costs can break the bank. In that case, spend the money to own one.

You’ll also need mortar mix. A 60-lb. bag costs a few dollars at home centers. If you need colored mortar, take a small piece of the old mortar to a masonry supplier and ask for help finding a mortar dye to match. But be aware of this—fresh tuckpointing always stands out against older mortar. However, it will eventually weather to match.

Start small
If you only have a few joints to tuckpoint, dive right in. But if you have a large wall to tackle, start in a small area to get a feel for the operation before you start hogging out entire walls. You’ll hone your skills and get a good idea of how much you can tuckpoint at one time. You’ll have 30 to 60 minutes of working time once you mix the mortar.

Get ready for the dust
Tuckpointing is a dirty business. Grinding the joints creates a dust storm, with chunks of mortar covering the ground. Spread a drop cloth on the ground to catch the mortar so cleanup will take minutes instead of hours. Close your house windows to keep out the dust, and tell your neighbors who might be affected to do the same.

How to remove mortar from brick: Grind out the joints

Photo 1: Grind the horizontal joints first

Grind along the top and bottom of the horizontal joints to remove mortar. Get as close to the bricks as you can. If you grind against the bricks, the dust will turn the color of the brick.

Photo 2: Plunge-cut the vertical joints

Grind both sides of the vertical mortar joints. Plunge the grinder into the joint and work it up and down to make the cuts. But be careful not to grind the bricks above and below the joints.

Before you can put new mortar in the joints, you have to cut out the damaged material. So how do you remove mortar from brick? Start by grinding the top and bottom of the horizontal (bed) joints with an angle grinder (Photo 1). Hold the grinder with both hands to keep it steady and avoid grinding into the bricks. You only need to grind 3/4 in. into the mortar.

Start at outside corners and work inward. That keeps you from putting extra pressure on the corner bricks, which could knock them out of the wall. After you’ve finished the horizontal joints, do the vertical (head) joints (Photo 2).

Knock out the mortar

Photo 3: Hammer out the mortar

Keep moving the rotary hammer drill along the joints as you chisel out the mortar. Be sure to keep the chisel off the bricks so you don’t knock them out of place.

Use the rotary hammer drill to pound the mortar out of the joints. Set the drill on the rotating mode (it puts less pressure on the bricks). Again, work from the outside corners inward (Photo 3). Keep the chisel point in the mortar joint and keep moving the hammer. The drill makes quick work of removing mortar, but be careful. The powerful tool can also knock out bricks. If that happens, take them all the way out, chisel off all the mortar, then reset them when you fill the joints.

There’s really no secret to knocking out the mortar. Just hold the drill at about a 45-degree angle to the wall, squeeze the trigger and watch the mortar fall out.

Caution: Wear eye protection—mortar pieces can go flying!

Clean out the joints

Photo 4: Sweep out the joints

Use a small broom to sweep debris and dust out of the joints. Inspect the joints for any remaining stubborn mortar and knock it out with the drill.

Photo 5: Give joints a bath

Stick a brush into a bucket of water and rinse out the joints. Your goal here isn’t to make surfaces pristine, just to get rid of chunks and dust.

Once you’ve chipped out the damaged mortar, use a hand broom to sweep the joints. Sweep away mortar clumps and the dust (Photo 4). Use the rotary hammer drill to bust out stubborn chunks.

Then wash out the joints with water. But don’t hose down the wall or you’ll soak everything, including the ground where you’ll be standing or kneeling. Instead, fill a bucket with water and brush the water into the joints (Photo 5). Don’t worry about slopping water onto the bricks—you want them damp before you fill the joints anyway.

Mix the new mortar

Photo 6: Whip up the mortar batch

Mix the mortar to the consistency of peanut butter with no dry spots or clumps. You’ll know the mix is right when it sticks to your trowel when you hold it at a 45-degree angle. Let the mortar sit for 10 minutes before using it.

If you’re tinting the mortar, stir the dye and the mortar mix in a bucket before adding the water. Dye is typically sold in 1-1/2-lb. bags. Mix one-quarter of the dye with one-quarter of a 60-lb. bag of mortar mix. Stir in water until the mix is the consistency of peanut butter (Photo 6).

The mortar will last 30 to 60 minutes, but you may need to add water to keep it workable. After one hour, throw out what’s left and mix a new batch.

Work the mortar into the joints

Photo 7: Fill the joints

Load your brick trowel and hold it next to the joint. Work the mortar into the joint with your tuck pointer. Pack the joint full before moving on to the next one.

Use a brick trowel and a tuck pointer to pack the mortar into the joints. Most pros prefer this method to using a grout/mortar bag. Mortar that is hand packed is more durable.

Scoop mortar onto the trowel. Hold the trowel next to the joint, then press the mortar into the joint with the tuck pointer (Photo 7). Pack the joint until it’s flush with the front of the bricks.

Tool the joints

Photo 8: Strike the mortar joints

Drag the jointer along the vertical joints and the horizontal joints. Apply gentle pressure to tool out the ridges where the joints intersect. Finish one joint before moving on to the next.

Let the mortar in the filled joints set for about 30 minutes. If you’re tuckpointing a large area, continually check the first joints you filled to see if they’re ready to tool (finish). Check by pressing the filled joint with your thumb. If your thumb leaves only a slight impression, it’s ready to tool. If it goes in deeper, wait five minutes and try again. But don’t let the mortar get too stiff—it can start to harden after just 30 minutes, making it difficult to tool the joints.

If you want rounded joints, press a masonry jointer into the top of vertical joints and pull the tool downward. The jointer will push out some of the mortar and leave a concave shape. For horizontal joints, start at a corner (Photo 8). Run the tool about halfway across the joint, then stop and finish tooling from the other side.

For flat joints, place a joint raker over an old joint to set the depth. Then run the raker along the new joints to make them flat.

Clean the bricks

Photo 9: Wipe down the bricks

Scrub the mortar off the bricks with a stiff brush. This also knocks down and smooths out any high spots along the joint edges.

Once the joints have set up (about 30 minutes after tooling), use a stiff-bristle brush to clean dried mortar off the bricks (Photo 9).

If the mortar refuses to come off, wait three days, then use muriatic acid (sold at home centers). Use 10 parts water to 1 part acid (add the acid to the water, not the other way around). Caution: Be sure to wear eye protection and rubber gloves when working with acid. Brush the acid onto the bricks with a stiff-bristle brush, scrub the bricks and let the acid fizz. Then rinse the acid off with water. If there’s still a little mortar residue left, treat it again.

The acid can slightly alter the bricks’ appearance, so test it on a small area first. If it does alter the appearance, increase the ratio of water to acid.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration. [project-tools] You’ll also need a brick trowel, a masonry jointer or joint raker, a small broom, rubber gloves, and a stiff bristle brush.

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here’s a list. [project-materials]